Has anyone tried ebikes.ca's Nine Continent hub motor?

[theyerb]

methods, I have a 9 Continents kit that I got from AmpedBikes. I love it But my controller must be different because it's not pedal-first. I can just thumb the throttle and I'm off. And what's with the talk of soldering the shunt to get 35amps? I wonder if I can do that... On a side note, I am thinking of running the motor at 60 volts or higher with a new controller.

 

[nomad85]

methods, I have a 9 Continents kit that I got from AmpedBikes. I love it But my controller must be different because it's not pedal-first. I can just thumb the throttle and I'm off. And what's with the talk of soldering the shunt to get 35amps? I wonder if I can do that... On a side note, I am thinking of running the motor at 60 volts or higher with a new controller.

The controller it comes with works at 60v, its pretty fun that way I wouldn't go any higher than 60v, the phase wires are a bit puny.

 

[methods]

And what's with the talk of soldering the shunt to get 35amps? I wonder if I can do that....

Open the controller and look for a shunt.
Usually just looks like a sore thumb on the board
One or two or 4 solid wires that just pop out of the board and go right back in.

The idea is that the shunt is a fixed known resistance.
If you measure the voltage across that resistance you can use ohms law to calculate your true current.

V/R = I

By adding a little solder to this shunt the resistance will go down so that it takes more current to hit the current limiter.
The amount of solder you add directly affects the current limit increase.
Does not take much!

On some of mine, if I solder the entire shunt I can go from 20A limit to 50A limit.
Often times just adding a little solder to each end of the shunt where it hits the board is enough.
Trial and error sort of thing.

-methods


EDIT: To answer the question, YES, soldering any shunt will work on any controller. Only problem is if they pot the board so that it is hard to get to.

A trick for finding the shunt is to start where the ground wire hits the board and trace it. The shunt will be close by. You really cant miss it.

 

[theyerb]

methods, thx for the info. I'll have to try it.

I checked out your Project Mayhem for the Kona. I must say... Bravo 8) I want to build my next bike *very similar, though I think 72volts will suffice. It is almost like an electric dirtbike in my eyes, only better!

And the cruiser ebike in the pictures reminded me of my current ride:

 

[morph999]

Why do nine continent motor have so much torque? I tried racing Nomad on his nine continent hub motor with 60 v and he blew me away with acceleration at the start. Do the nine continents sacrifice top speed for torque?

 

[Almasi]

Why do nine continent motor have so much torque? I tried racing Nomad on his nine continent hub motor with 60 v and he blew me away with acceleration at the start. Do the nine continents sacrifice top speed for torque?

Much more pole motor....so it's like having more cylinder firing every RPM.

What's your setup (to compare with your friend Nine Continent motor setup, and how much current is he pushing it?)

Robin

 

[Toshi]

i'm tempted to upgrade my 407 to a NC... but i really shouldn't. the 407 works, even if it has less torque, etc.

 

[Zoot Katz]

Why do nine continent motor have so much torque? I tried racing Nomad on his nine continent hub motor with 60 v and he blew me away with acceleration at the start. Do the nine continents sacrifice top speed for torque?

Use this simulator at ebikes.ca http://www.ebikes.ca/simulator/
Select "NineCont 2807" for the 26" Nine Continents hub motor.

 

[morph999]

I got a Forsen hub motor.

I started to gain on him later in the ride but not by much. He's also probably 50 lbs lighter than me too so maybe that made a difference.

 

[Russell]

I got a Forsen hub motor.

I started to gain on him later in the ride but not by much. He's also probably 50 lbs lighter than me too so maybe that made a difference.

50 pounds is quite a weight disadvantage in an ebike drag race

-R

 

[nomad85]

I got a Forsen hub motor.

I started to gain on him later in the ride but not by much. He's also probably 50 lbs lighter than me too so maybe that made a difference.

50 pounds is quite a weight disadvantage in an ebike drag race

-R

I also had 12 extra volts... hey a wins a win right... even if you cheat?

In my defense I had to use my slower motor since my rear motors rim is cracked. at 48v that motor is slooowww.... would have been no contest.

 

[nomad85]

i'm tempted to upgrade my 407 to a NC... but i really shouldn't. the 407 works, even if it has less torque, etc.

My 407 quit working due to rust, how are you keeping yours from rusting in rainy Seattle? (the NC is much better overall, if you can afford it I would try one out. get the speed version not the torque version, I have both, the speed is where its at.)

 

[methods]

I would agree with that.
Simulator does too.

I am running the speed version in a 20" for great torque!
Speed version outperforms the torque version on a 26" wheel if you have the power to spare.

As soon as I can get some spokes cut I am changing my hub out to a 26" wheel to hold me off (5305 finally died).
I plan to run 44.4V lipo with a 35A current limit. Should haul! I can already go plenty fast on the 20" wheel.

-methods

 

[kazbluesky]

Methods, I dont suppose you have a photo or 2 of how to add the solder to increase the resistance? I have the Ampedbikes kit and I too fancy increasing the amps from the 22amp max controller up a bit. I went from a 36v to 48v and it made a big difference to the performance of this bike. Do you think upping it from 22amps to say 32amps would make a noticeable difference. Do you think the motor could stand it for long?

Whatever though, it is a great motor. Actually, I just got home from a 10 mile ride along the river, over some bridges and hills with my little girl on the crossbar - I'm very happy with this motor.

 

[gip_mad]

kazbluesky:
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=13032#p13032

 

[nomad85]

Methods, I dont suppose you have a photo or 2 of how to add the solder to increase the resistance? I have the Ampedbikes kit and I too fancy increasing the amps from the 22amp max controller up a bit. I went from a 36v to 48v and it made a big difference to the performance of this bike. Do you think upping it from 22amps to say 32amps would make a noticeable difference. Do you think the motor could stand it for long?

Whatever though, it is a great motor. Actually, I just got home from a 10 mile ride along the river, over some bridges and hills with my little girl on the crossbar - I'm very happy with this motor.

I don't think it would have any effect on the top speed most motors don't use a ton of amps when they are at full speed, but hill climbing and acceleration would be better.

 

[methods]

Current = acceleration
Voltage = top speed

And to answer the question, upping the current from 22Aish to 32Aish will make the bike a whole new bike
The increase in power will not be subtle, it will be awesome.

Say you are at 48V:

48V * 22A = 1056W
48V * 32A = 1536W

That is a 50% power increase.

(From Fechters Post)
See how there were 4 shunt wires and the soldered together the bottom two?
This *lowers* the resistance which will increase your current limit.
PLEASE dont do this unless you have a CA or a means to measure your new current.

Your controller may only start with 2 shunt wires instead of 4. DONT solder it in completely.
A little goes a long way. Try soldering maybe 1/3, close it back up, and test it.



-methods

 

[Toshi]

i'm tempted to upgrade my 407 to a NC... but i really shouldn't. the 407 works, even if it has less torque, etc.

My 407 quit working due to rust, how are you keeping yours from rusting in rainy Seattle? (the NC is much better overall, if you can afford it I would try one out. get the speed version not the torque version, I have both, the speed is where its at.)

i now run a pedal first controller as water damage killed my Hall sensors, even after chipping the apparent offender out at great length and replacing it. since then i haven't had any problems.

i think i'll wait until/if my 407 bites the dust. it works well enough for what i use it for, and i'm saving up for one of these. it'll stay gasoline powered -- it's Euro 3 emissions so reasonably clean. (it's a Piaggio MP3.)

 

[kazbluesky]

Guys that was extremely helpful. Thank you. I'm going to have a crack at doing this tomorrow!!!!

 

[methods]

Disclaimer:

Upping your current limit will increase the likelihood of blowing your controller
I blew up my 36V 20A pedal first yesterday totally out of the blue
I had only bumped the current up to 35A from 20A

Never know when it is going to happen either. . . I had hammered on that thing in the past without trouble
Yesterday it just went POP.

If you want to start the mod game be ready to pay the piper.
Most likely a blowup will just mean that you have to replace the fets.
Doing so will allow you to run much more current though.

-methods

 

[recumbent]

Can't we just purchase a 35 amp instant start controler? Are the phase wires available?

 

[methods]

ebikes.ca sells the Nine Continents as a Kit.
That said, they have always been so hospitable to me that I cant imagine them saying no to a reasonable offer.

Personally I hated the 20A pedal first controller and so did my wife.
I ordered a little credit card size ecrazyman controller to replace it.
It comes as 48V 15A or something but you know i am going to mod it

For a nOOb bike I think 44.4V @ 35A is a great kick in the pants.
Just fast enough to scare you if you get too relaxed.
Tame enough for first timers

For me? :|
I need at least a few KW to get my juices flowing.
Unless someone stops me I am going to order one of these tomorrow (negotiating a kit w/ no controller)
http://www.cyclone-tw.com/dc48.htm
To get my feet wet while I try to wrap my head around a non-hub motor setup.
I just started looking at your insane thread. . . There are like 50,000 posts so it will take me a while

Without doubt I want one of those big chunks of aluminum you have been carving :wink:
There is some sort of waiting list right?

-methods

 

[recumbent]

Without doubt I want one of those big chunks of aluminum you have been carving :wink:
There is some sort of waiting list right? -methods

:? Is this directed for me? Perhaps your referring to "RecumPENCE" instead? He has a different avatar also.

Good luck with your brave project tho, many folks including Ypedal find the noise of these "Cyclone" kits unpleasant, "like a drill gone mad" is what i remember.

 

[methods]

Doh :lol:

 

[spike]

I've just got a 500W 36V rear 26" wheel/hub, controller and throttle from Sunnychen at the 9 Continents factory. I also bought a CA from ebikes.ca so I could see how my batts and controllers coped with a hub kit. I've tried the kit with the 36v 22A controller it came with (too slow and not enough grunt), a 48-72v 35A pedal first Xlyte controller (smooth take off, plenty of speed and torque but controller ran hot and cut out), then finally with a start immediate 36-72V 35A Xlyte controller (faster, more torque and completed the 16K journey I used for testing. The motor runs very quietly compared to the geared kits I've used. Not as quiet as the X5 but quiet enough for stealth. The test circuit I chose has plenty of hills and long flat stretches so I can check torque and speed. For a direct drive this motor has a lot of torque. It pulled me and my beer belly up the steepest hill without pedalling. The fastest speed on the CA was recorded downhill so doesn't really count. On the flat it was about 40Km/hr. Conclusion: Great commuter kit. Only negative is that the wheel isn't dished so the brakes need to be skewed to match the offset. I've logged some results from the CA and thought I'd share them to see if they match what others are getting.

Distance 16Km
Time 33 mins
Max Speed 50.7 Km/hr
Average Speed 29.1 Km/hr
Whrs/Km 17.1
Batt 55.4V 5AH 274.98 Whrs
Amps min -5.61 (regen)
Amps max 61.24
Volts min 36

I tried to keep the power to a reasonable level but it was too much fun, so I probably spent too much time above 1000W

BTW: I've got 2 torque arms from ebikes.ca, but the kit came with 2 torque bars that screwed straight into the pannier slots on the (steel) bike frame.