LightingRod kit standard 09/2014 edition

[emaayan]

first ca logger with l-r kit. i've tried using ebike.ca trip analyzer, but it gave me wierd results.
i believe first columns is AH (i forgot to reset it)
2nd col is volts
3rd is amps
4th is speed
5th is distance (again forgot to reset it)
6th is temperature.

i've returned to 15 T sprocket, the chain is definetly more tensed, however, i believe i somtimes hear the belt slipping under high load.

if you are talking about the IGH breaking, so far it handled the bmc (only first and 2nd gear) without breaking, it's rear sprocket is 20T and exchanging THAT is really insane with the snap ring of doom (besides, it's the biggest one that has a chain guard on it) but chainring now is 39T.

 

[mwkeefer]

LightningRods aka Mike,

So now that your kit seems refined and polished, how about sending your old pal a kit minus motor for... em, promotional consideration, evaluation, data collection and review... I'll even pay postage

Okay really you can't blame a Mike for trying!

Seriously though I know this isn't really the place but would you be interested in a trade of a kit for... well whatever you may need, lord knows I have a stockpyle of eBike, electronics, batteries, etc doing me no good at the moment.

My new target platform would not be a folder but rather a 2014 Specialized Camber - The Bafangs are great but not for the type of Riding I want to be able to do (downhill and trail) in addition to my normal commute purposes and I loathe the idea of installing one of the two GNG v1.0 units I have for reasons I shouldn't have to explain to you (why else would you have done all this work getting these perfect). Only possible issue is the BB is not the standard but wider (73mm I think), will your kit adapt to that type of install?

BTW: for all the ESers out there who want a basically bulletproof 2-3K BB Drive and dont mind the bit of (little bit) additional weight, LightningRods has the darn best engineered, machined , high quality and reliable solution which surpasses the BBS02 in power and the GNG 1000w 48v in power and reliability.

If I personally had the money to buy one at the moment, I would already be on the phone with LightningRods to order one for my offroad/Onroad Camber Full Suspension bike, also with Mike (Lightning Rods) you get a very reasonable pricing (given the time, effort and attention to details) and even better... someone who can help you troubleshoot or tune any aspect of his design.

-Mike

 

[LightningRods]

Thank you for the kind words Mr. Keefer! I'm responding to you by e-mail so that we don't clutter Emaayan's build thread.

It's important to always show proper Forum etiquette.

 

[emaayan]

i've added a spacer (hey! it's for chain line reasons, so i'm allowed!) the ratteling of the chain against the mud guard was so annoying.

i've sequeezed the crankset as much as i could so i still get to use spacers.

my initial attempt to install a PAS plate has failed, it's REALLY hard trying to squeeze that thing into the isis, and i was afraid to break it. i'll email justin to see if that's even possible.

 

[emaayan]

it would appear that assembling the belt guard caused clanking, as the all 5 bolts are being used i can only determine that this is becouse the jackshaft is being skewed from the chain pull, i don't know what would happen if i live it on
[youtube]biEyOb2zJKQ[/youtube]

i also got a response from ebike.ca regarding the pas sensor , which he referred me to this : http://www.ebikes.ca/shop/ebike-parts/torque-sensors/pas-12p-chr.html which for obvious reasons, i believe cannot be used here.

 

[spinningmagnets]

The parts that are rubbing will get hot and expand, causing the noise to get worse. Perhaps try placing a small washer on each bolt of the guard, under the protective plate...to re-locate it outward a little bit?

 

[emaayan]

The parts that are rubbing will get hot and expand, causing the noise to get worse. Perhaps try placing a small washer on each bolt of the guard, under the protective plate...to re-locate it outward a little bit?

that was my thought exactly a temporary solution though. but should i worried if i see some small strands coming out of the belt?

 

[LightningRods]

that was my thought exactly a temporary solution though. but should i worried if i see some small strands coming out of the belt?

If you have loose strands from the belt rubbing the guard it's just at the edge of the belt. Edge wear won't cause the belt to break if that's your worry.

Your chainline didn't look right in the photo you posted. It looks like the driver sprocket is too far out or the driven BB sprocket is too far in. It could just be the angle of the photo but your chain looked like it curved out on the drive end.

 

[spinningmagnets]

It's possible the belt could get a little frayed on the outer edge and everything will still be fine, but...avoid any spinning parts touching as much as possible. No need to wear out things so soon before its necessary.

 

[emaayan]

that was my thought exactly a temporary solution though. but should i worried if i see some small strands coming out of the belt?

If you have loose strands from the belt rubbing the guard it's just at the edge of the belt. Edge wear won't cause the belt to break if that's your worry.

Your chainline didn't look right in the photo you posted. It looks like the driver sprocket is too far out or the driven BB sprocket is too far in. It could just be the angle of the photo but your chain looked like it curved out on the drive end.

it really is like that, i believe it's because of the 15T driver which is deeper then the 12T, i'm guessing that's what's causing the rattling noise, i don't think i can turn the jack shaft anymore to the left then it is now, the the jackshaft's locking ring is already semi flushed from the jackshaft edges.

i'll place some washers on the belt guard.

 

[LightningRods]

If the driver sprocket won't move in any further move the driven sprocket out by installing the thick ring spacer between the right BB cup flange and outside of the right sheet as shown below:

Running the bike with the chain misaligned like that will cause premature wear on the sprockets, especially the driver.

 

[emaayan]

i've already installed a spacer, but just the one you sent with the black square taper arms, the other 2 are busy spacing the isis cranks arms
this is how it looks from another angle after the spacer.

 

[LightningRods]

Do you have two spacers on the right crank arm? If you do that's pushing the 219 driven and chainwheels back in by that amount. When I have the new pants rings available hopefully you can run with one thin or even no spacer between the freewheel and crank arm.

Did you get the ACS freewheel that I sent you by Express USPS? I think that the offset spacing may be slightly different from the W-I freewheel that you have.

 

[emaayan]

Do you have two spacers on the right crank arm? If you do that's pushing the 219 driven and chainwheels back in by that amount. When I have the new pants rings available hopefully you can run with one thin or even no spacer between the freewheel and crank arm.

Did you get the ACS freewheel that I sent you by Express USPS? I think that the offset spacing may be slightly different from the W-I freewheel that you have.

no i did not get it, i remembered asking for one, i think i even asked for it to be assembled on the crank arm itself, when i didn't get it i assumed i never requested for one.

but your pants ring will need a new driven sprocket? one with holes in it? ( i recall you mentioned you need to drill holes in it)

 

[LightningRods]

I'll e-mail you the Express Mail label. I paid $42 to ship a $25 freewheel to you in Israel. I forgot to put it in the UPS package to you.

I hope that I'm not on some Israeli Customs watch list after your Lyen controller got bounced back. If I am I'll have to stop using my regular USPS account to generate the mailing labels.

 

[emaayan]

I'll e-mail you the Express Mail label. I paid $42 to ship a $25 freewheel to you in Israel. I forgot to put it in the UPS package to you.

I hope that I'm not on some Israeli Customs watch list after your Lyen controller got bounced back. If I am I'll have to stop using my regular USPS account to generate the mailing labels.

i hope I'M not on customs watch list for that but at the time when i talked to customs agent, she said they don''t do that. i believe she's right, because way back i was sent a bunch of stuff from ebike.ca and they mistakenly labeled it as ebike motor, (even though it didn't contain a motor) i naturally bounced it back i still got parts and stuff after that. besides , unlike the controller the freewheel can be used for many issues.

that's why i'm more relaxed when i'll order the new upper and lower sheets and new pulley from you, once lyen controller reaches i'll use the money for that.

just make sure you don't write anything sucpicious. like driver, driven , gear or attached a box that has a RACE CAR on it )


don't forget the payment request.

 

[emaayan]

could this be a problem?
when i stripped the threading here, i only had a sunken head bolt at this size and length to be inserted, looking closely i didn't see it touching the belt, however at times i did see the belt moving a 2 mm outwards, the cracking sounds almost surely comes from the belt but i think that's mabye because i'm applying too much load.

 

[LightningRods]

If you think back to when you first told me that you'd stripped the motor case threads, I told you that the correct repair was to buy an M8 threaded insert. The reason for this is that there is no room for a long bolt and nut in that location.

So that's still what you need to do: buy an M8 threaded insert.

http://www.yardleyproducts.com/aluminum?pi_ad_id=17306107982&gclid=CKXZ5rjmucECFaY-Mgod5ScAQQ

The belt is looking trashed from rubbing on the belt guard and this bolt. You should buy a spare.

 

[emaayan]

If you think back to when you first told me that you'd stripped the motor case threads, I told you that the correct repair was to buy an M8 threaded insert. The reason for this is that there is no room for a long bolt and nut in that location.

So that's still what you need to do: buy an M8 threaded insert.

http://www.yardleyproducts.com/aluminum?pi_ad_id=17306107982&gclid=CKXZ5rjmucECFaY-Mgod5ScAQQ

The belt is looking trashed from rubbing on the belt guard and this bolt. You should buy a spare.

i asked about the strands coming out from the belt a while back i was told not to worry, guess i should have posted a picture.

i already have a spare i got from you , and i thought you meant the other silver bolts. when i was having my bb tool done with the mil guy i asked about the insert, and he said that in order to insert the M8 insert he would need to put an M10 hole which is too big for this thing.
so i was thinking maybe i should just put a longer button bolt but the other way around. so the button head would face the belt.

 

[1BFC]

Two options on that bolt in my opinion.

Install threaded insert for the same size bolt as original.

Use a low head profile bolt installed in the other direction. Flat head bolt will not be the type to use as they require a countersunk hole to achieve "flat head" result.

This may get you started:

https://www.fastenal.com/web/products/fasteners/sockets/button-socket-cap-screws/_/Navigation;jsessionid=8FhyJhLNTYQ881spbf1GypTxGV5mYbccLFxfsH1hJMr2G63H1yWh!1897715983!1630393511?term=&termca=&termpx=&sortby=webrank&sortdir=descending&searchmode=productSearch&filterByVendingMachine=&r=~%7Ccategoryl1:%22600000%20Fasteners%22%7C~%20~%7Ccategoryl2:%22600039%20Sockets%22%7C~%20~%7Ccategoryl3:%22600043%20Button%20Socket%20Cap%20Screws%22%7C~

Don't let the description scare you. You are using the bolt in shear primarily so the lower strength head is not an issue.

 

[jdevo2004]

Just turn that bolt around and thread it in from the belt side. Should be enough clearance from the belt after that. Worth a shot because it is a free and easy fix if it works.

 

[LightningRods]

Install threaded insert for the same size bolt as original.

This is the correct answer. The hole for the insert is not a M10 and the tap used is not a M10 tap. It's a M8+ tap sized specifically for M8 inserts. Typically the same company that sells the inserts will sell the plus size taps. Fastenal in the USA does.

You're lucky that you stripped this one instead of the other left sheet bolt. That one has almost no clearance from the driven pulley.

 

[emaayan]

as first aid i'll use the low button head, as getting an insert an a tap for it seems harder. the guy was actually talking about something called Helicoil when i described the insert to him. from reading an israeli about motors they say you need an entire set of tools for just for one (a drill, a tap, a special drill just for the lip of the insert i'm assuming they mean a face?, and something to lead the insert in)

i don't know where to look for a place that sells individual pieces of quickserts (the site you pointed requires a min of 35) or what tools are needed for them, or how to install them.

 

[emaayan]

i've checked with several local tools store and the only one that came close seemed to sell these, but i'm not sure they are the same thing you suggested.
they stated that the hole drilled should be 11 mm ,

 

[LightningRods]

The diameter of the ear is only 12mm so an 11mm hole isn't going to work. Fastenal sells the tap for their M8 inserts as an M8 insert tap. It may be as large as 10 or 11mm. I haven't needed to buy one.

There is some room on that front ear. I'd take a hex head bolt and grind the head down until it completely cleared the pulley. The nut should go on the inside. You only need to leave enough bolt head to get a wrench on. Whatever is left of the original threads will help hold the bolt in place.

It's important to be careful tightening these M8 bolts that hold the left upper sheet on. If you strip out the rear one where there is no clearance it means a new motor side case and a complete teardown of the motor.