beast775
100 kW
Sweet battery build. looks awesome! bike is ggggreat.
My Cromotor E-Bike Build -> more like a moped
- Thread starter madin88
- Start date
melodious
100 kW
lol I knew that battery wasn't in/on your frame and suspected from the pictures you supplied that there was more to the fork than the LCD display... :lol:
ambroseliao
100 kW
Hey Madin88,
Can you post some pics of how the battery mounts to the bike? I see the KlickFix mounts attached to the fork but don't see the corresponding mount on the back of the Pelican 1300 case. It looks terrific.
Can you post some pics of how the battery mounts to the bike? I see the KlickFix mounts attached to the fork but don't see the corresponding mount on the back of the Pelican 1300 case. It looks terrific.
melodious
100 kW
I've had 2x catastrophic failures at the bottom of the red portion of the Klickfix mechanism where it simply snaps and breaks off leaving whatever bag attachment to fall off
. I sincerely hope it's a DIY mount vs. a Klickfix 
ambroseliao
100 kW
melodious said:
I've had 2x catastrophic failures at the bottom of the red portion of the Klickfix mechanism where it simply snaps and breaks off leaving whatever bag attachment to fall off
According to this picture, it's based on the KlickFix mechanism which is why I asked!
http://imageshack.us/a/img826/7784/lvae.jpg
melodious
100 kW
FWIW, I wasn't even going near the speeds that you probably are going on this build and I was below the rated weight they were meant to hold. I would change those out and replace them with a metal.ambroseliao said:melodious said:
I've had 2x catastrophic failures at the bottom of the red portion of the Klickfix mechanism where it simply snaps and breaks off leaving whatever bag attachment to fall off
According to this picture, it's based on the KlickFix mechanism which is why I asked!
http://imageshack.us/a/img826/7784/lvae.jpg
I believe the failure was due to the front to back motion of the bag. Keep an eye on your pelican case while your moving. If you see any movement or give on bumps, your time is limited before they break.
The very least you can do to remedy it without changing the mount (they are very convenient to get the case off & on), is make a "ledge" for the pelican case to rest upon.
John in CR
100 TW
Where are the protective insulating rings for the button ends of those cells? Manufacturers have gone to paper or plastic rings to prevent the tabs from shorting at the corner of the cells. Having positive and negative separated by only that paper thin fragile green plastic is high risk.
Did you harvest the cells by recycling used tool packs or were you able to source new Konion cells?
Great build despite my questions regarding the battery.
John
Did you harvest the cells by recycling used tool packs or were you able to source new Konion cells?
Great build despite my questions regarding the battery.
John
dotrick
10 W
I have the TC100 Motor, if you want to do a new build, I will give you some informations!madin88 said:The last thing was the Motor and Rims. Wanted to wait for more infos on cystalyte the Crown TC 80/100 but not much experiences comning so i decided to order Cromotor and im very glad about it.
Good choice! I have the TC100 with 26" wheel and I think it's better with 20" wheel.madin88 said:
I don't like thismadin88 said:
You made lot of beautifull aluminium parts. I think you can do a better integration of the battery. :wink: What is the discharge rate? 10C, 20C or more?madin88 said:
Only 60 A with 18 FET... I have 48A with 12 FET.madin88 said:
I ride 23km a day for 40minutes. My average speed is 33kph. I set a speed limit of 40kph. No current limit (48A max for my controler). My consumption is about 22Wh/Km. I'm looking for some information to know if the efficiency of my system is good or not.madin88 said:range: about 60km at 25-30 Wh/km with full speed
[/quote]
Nice dashboard! I like your aluminium parts! My next buil will be a CNC! To do lot of beautiful aluminium parts... 
ambroseliao said:
The two claws on each klickfix only secure the case to not fall off forward. The part on the case surroundes the part on the fork so it cannot move to the sides.
On bottom i installed a alu bracket which will be screwed (together with the horn) into the fork tube. It doesnt waggle and holds very well for so far :wink: If it some day begin to waggle, i will mount the case fix to the bike...
these are klickfix caddy adapters which i disassembled:
John in CR said:
thx john
do you really think i will get a short circuit problem in my battery? :?
I glued the cells together with CA. On top and bottom there are 1,5mm GFK plates sticked on the packs. The power and balancer cables in the pack i have extra insulated.. The packs cannot move in the case because they very tight fit and surrounded by black self-sticking foam material.
I have not harvested the cells. They are all new. Ordered them from a german dealer (i am from austria)
http://www.groetech.de/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=111
the US18650VTC4 do have 2100mAh and are rated for max 30A, 15C constant discharge (i have 9p
). sony "konion" should never need balancing (the drift is now about max 10mV among my 22s pack)
trevc2 said:
Hi,
the tubing are called "SILVYN® RILL PA6 UV-resistant" from manufacturer LappKabel. They should be available in many diameter variations.
http://www.conrad.at/ce/de/product/...SILVYN-PA6-910x13-LappKabel-Inhalt-Meterware?
dotrick said:I have the TC100 Motor, if you want to do a new build, I will give you some informations!
-what kV does this motor have?
- is the stuttering issue above 70-80V still present?
do you have a thread of your build with TC100 motor?
I don't like this
many people i show the bike say the same, but i think this is one of the easiest ways to build and mount such a big battery.
Another good battery mount would be two Peli Laptop cases mount to left and right side of the frame. Maybe i do this in my next build if someone gives me the mission...
my controller isnt modded for so far (all stock cable etc) and i dont want to blow up something^^
The battery cables are ready to take more amps. they have 8mm² up to the connection to the controller. Inside the case every pack has 2x 4mm² cable on each pole (it was more easy soldering for me than one single 8mm² strand). every pack has double 5,5mm Jeti bullet connectors.
its not selfmade
you can buy this extension here: http://www.cycle-analyst.de/cycle_analyst_display-erweiterungen.htmlmaybe ebikes.ca will offer them soon but i dont know..
the keyswitch is for my 12V power supply (also powering the CA). the switch with led notification final switches the controller on (it keyswitch is on). the poti is to set power limits, speed limits etc..
Hey Madin88 have you seen kiwi's method might give you some idea's
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=33767
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=33767Emoto said:
..this also looks good, but i dont like the belts (i think my peli case will waggle alot on there).
I decided to stay with the Klickfix. If something will become loose, i will directly mount the case to the alu plate on the fork. the removeable battery is not an absoulutley must have for me (mostly i charge the battery left on the bike).
dotrick
10 W
madin88 said:dotrick said:I have the TC100 Motor, if you want to do a new build, I will give you some informations!
-what kV does this motor have?
- is the stuttering issue above 70-80V still present?
do you have a thread of your build with TC100 motor?
Kv, I don't know... With no load, I did a test at 90V, the top speed was 120Kph (with 26" Wheel).
I don't know for the stuttering above 70-80V because my low voltage is 85V. I have lot of difficulties to find the correct setup to have a smooth regulation but I think it's not the motor, it's the controller or Cycle analyst...
I found new parameters and now it's better but not perfect. The thread is here : http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=51712
The secret is the management of the temperature...madin88 said:
dotrick said:The secret is the management of the temperature...madin88 said:
Thats for sure! If i dismount the controller for moding i will do a better airflow cooling too. When i installed the black foam it did function like a cooling tube but now it sticks all around the controller and so there is only a little air gap left.. Forgot to add some spacers between.. bähhhh..
It also might well be that i don't mod my controller and go with a kelly, sabvoton or the best (but most expensive): Adaptto System
http://velomastera.ru/shop/show_good.php?idtov=501036&grid=1lets see..
melodious said:I've had 2x catastrophic failures at the bottom of the red portion of the Klickfix mechanism where it simply snaps and breaks off leaving whatever bag attachment to fall off
do you mean the red clip which failured or something from the black plastic part?
You should think of that klickfix baskets have a long lever which produces torque to the mechanism. On my mechanism this is not the case because of the alu on bottom screwed in the fork tube...
melodious
100 kW
madin88 said:melodious said:I've had 2x catastrophic failures at the bottom of the red portion of the Klickfix mechanism where it simply snaps and breaks off leaving whatever bag attachment to fall off
do you mean the red clip which failured or something from the black plastic part?
You should think of that klickfix baskets have a long lever which produces torque to the mechanism. On my mechanism this is not the case because of the alu on bottom screwed in the fork tube...
Yes. The red area where it "clicks" into position. No worries for you since you don't use them
. And after looking further into your pics of the battery case, I feel more confident for you build, since it locks in close to your forks thereby allowing very little room to move. The aluminum bracket that attaches on the bottom only helps. 8) I hope I didn't scare you too much.
The only part i dont like is the boxed section this could stretch separate with heavy loads ive seen it happen with that type of design, the rubberized connection is nice , but the good part is they have been tested so have a look on the thread,
12kg in your case is lot though,
In my build i went to and fro considered all the usual frame and fork mounted options , and thats why im going for a monocoque main frame.
Your top bracket is a v good base though... "build it strong do it once"
Chalo
100 TW
madin88 said:
I'd proceed straight to plan B, then,
Bicycle racks and mountings weight ratings seem to presume soft bags will be attached to them. Soft bags provide a large degree of suspension and damping for the load inside them.
My experiences mounting 25 to 50 pounds of SLA firmly to a reputable rack rated to carry 55 pounds suggests that hard mounting weight to the rack not only beats up your payload and your rear wheel, but reduces the rack's effective capacity by more than half. If you don't have some cushioning built into the system, you'll break it. Surely having front suspension on your bike will help versus not having it, but I would not trust Klickfix to tolerate what you are going to do with it.
Today i was talking with an motocross driver. he took a ride with my bike and was very excited about the performance.
He said this bike out accelerates every moped out there (and this with my controller only set to 60A batt / 100A phase)
He told me the battery on the fork very worsen the handling of the bike and i really should mount the battery to the frame.
arriving at home i promptly started of thinking how to best fit this big 1,5kWh Battery on my votec frame.
I think i will go with two Peli 1200 cases mouting them sideward. My current battery packs will fit exactly in there and i calculatet that even 27s 4p 26650 A123 (97 Volts ) would fit in there.
made a stencil of styro to imagine how it will look:
Enough space for pedaling. No clashing on the front side (even at full front suspension travel).
The controller i will place under the frame between the cases. Lights, turn signals i will place more down (to the alu bracket on the front or more below).
Maybe i also make a aerodynamical casing around the front - any suggestions of buyable parts which i can modificate to fit?
He said this bike out accelerates every moped out there (and this with my controller only set to 60A batt / 100A phase)
He told me the battery on the fork very worsen the handling of the bike and i really should mount the battery to the frame.
arriving at home i promptly started of thinking how to best fit this big 1,5kWh Battery on my votec frame.
I think i will go with two Peli 1200 cases mouting them sideward. My current battery packs will fit exactly in there and i calculatet that even 27s 4p 26650 A123 (97 Volts
) would fit in there.made a stencil of styro to imagine how it will look:
Enough space for pedaling. No clashing on the front side (even at full front suspension travel).
The controller i will place under the frame between the cases. Lights, turn signals i will place more down (to the alu bracket on the front or more below).
Maybe i also make a aerodynamical casing around the front - any suggestions of buyable parts which i can modificate to fit?
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