New GNG Mid Drive Brushless 60V650W

On another thought. the GNG gen 2 kit that I had for almost 2 years now on another bike had been trouble free out of the box compared to this one. only issue with that kit is it gets hot easily due to being a middrive converted geared hub motor. they should had made one with a MAC sized geared hub like spinningmagnets and crossbeaks creations. That kit also got the same upgrades as the 2015 gen 1 kits. part of the mounting hardware is casted with the motor casing to add rigidity and they did add fins around the motor too I guess to aid in dissipating heat I guess if my gen 1 kit dies, this is gonna be the replacement. of course it's a weaker motor but it should be enough for my 1kw peak power requirements. http://www.gngebike.com/36v350w-48v500w-2015-gen-2
 
emaayan said:
lantice13 said:
I manage to get the whole thing running reliably stock with just minor adjustments. and yes even with the crappy freewheeling crankset . this bike is in the daily commuter bike rotation since I do trust it now after completing several long range tests, hill climb towing test without a hitch on the drive system. now I'm on the 2nd phase of testing.... the long term usage test. It passed the 6 week mark already so I'm starting to think that this might be the real deal now. if it survive till Interbike 2015, that would be great since I'm planning on bringing this bike this year. I'm sure several people here and at ESFB are gonna be there like last year. :D

just remember that chainrings are wearable parts, a few weeks after i asked. jon got backed to me about the chainring i bent, it's about 22$. but these can't be obtained anywhere else. it's a 42T 64 bcd. i suspect if you fall or slip with it on a rock, it might not survive.
maybe it's because i plan to run it at 2000w instead 700w.
don't forget the freehwheels in crank are also candidates to massive wear because of the angular pressure they are under. this is why sickbikeparts will be coming out with a double bearing version.

or it could be that i have neck for breaking stuff and love to have reserve of like.. everything .
well this is why I'm trying to keep it stock as much as possible to measure it's durability as it is at it's rated power. I know part's will wear out eventually. We'll worry about that when it finally came to that point in the life time of this kit. eventually someone's gotta do it. how are we gonna find out if we'r not gonna try right? we'r like those few people that tested the gng kits when if first came out a few years ago. totally untested waters. and with each failure comes a solution that eventually complied to that really long thread about this kit, which is a very good resource in this forum. 8)
 
also the durability of any part will be depending on how you gonna use this bike. if you are rough with your gear, treat it like a motorcycle/high power setup or gonna do downhill and up hill off road bombing then you really need to beef up everything. lol I'm mostly gonna use this on road and pavement and some mild hard packed dirt trails so I'm not worried about large rocks or logs smashing on the drive system. I id drop the bike on it's side accidentally 2x already... stupid kickstand... seems like it didnt bend anything even though it landed on the pedal and crank.
 
lantice13 said:
emaayan said:
lantice13 said:
I manage to get the whole thing running reliably stock with just minor adjustments. and yes even with the crappy freewheeling crankset . this bike is in the daily commuter bike rotation since I do trust it now after completing several long range tests, hill climb towing test without a hitch on the drive system. now I'm on the 2nd phase of testing.... the long term usage test. It passed the 6 week mark already so I'm starting to think that this might be the real deal now. if it survive till Interbike 2015, that would be great since I'm planning on bringing this bike this year. I'm sure several people here and at ESFB are gonna be there like last year. :D

just remember that chainrings are wearable parts, a few weeks after i asked. jon got backed to me about the chainring i bent, it's about 22$. but these can't be obtained anywhere else. it's a 42T 64 bcd. i suspect if you fall or slip with it on a rock, it might not survive.
maybe it's because i plan to run it at 2000w instead 700w.
don't forget the freehwheels in crank are also candidates to massive wear because of the angular pressure they are under. this is why sickbikeparts will be coming out with a double bearing version.

or it could be that i have neck for breaking stuff and love to have reserve of like.. everything .
well this is why I'm trying to keep it stock as much as possible to measure it's durability as it is at it's rated power. I know part's will wear out eventually. We'll worry about that when it finally came to that point in the life time of this kit. eventually someone's gotta do it. how are we gonna find out if we'r not gonna try right? we'r like those few people that tested the gng kits when if first came out a few years ago. totally untested waters. and with each failure comes a solution that eventually complied to that really long thread about this kit, which is a very good resource in this forum. 8)

well ever since i reached a point where an ecospeed's controller broke down and i was down for 2 months, i started to worry in advance, i cannot afford to be downed more then a few days. i don't have a fallback to a car. from my point of view the dangers zones are the motor driver sprocket, driven sprocket, fanphy freewheel and crankset .

the crankset have already been replaced, even without wear, how will i be able to know sure even at rated watts, that one jump won't cause the chain to semi drop and bend it again. additionally considering there are no 64 bcd chainring bigger then 30T leads to believe, it's entire structure is fragile.

the driven sprocket can be replaced with this, http://www.ebay.com/itm/190950288808?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT i have 2 of those already.
the fanphy freewheel cannot be obtained alone, but this one http://www.electricscooterparts.com/SPR-41014F.htm seems to match (it says 18 mm threaded hub or shaft)

what's left is the driver sprocket.
and maybe the shaft itself.
 
lantice13 said:
also the durability of any part will be depending on how you gonna use this bike. if you are rough with your gear, treat it like a motorcycle/high power setup or gonna do downhill and up hill off road bombing then you really need to beef up everything. lol I'm mostly gonna use this on road and pavement and some mild hard packed dirt trails so I'm not worried about large rocks or logs smashing on the drive system. I id drop the bike on it's side accidentally 2x already... stupid kickstand... seems like it didnt bend anything even though it landed on the pedal and crank.

although my system will mostly be road and pavment, it's still gonna be 20 miles a day.

about the kickstand.
that's mine,http://www.amazon.com/Pletscher-ESGE-Double-Center-Kickstand/dp/B00OPYLR6I
although with my current setup, it has trouble reaching the ground, on a normal bike it actually lifts them way way up, so it's REALLY easy to fix stuff up like chain drops.
 
I know I few of you here had seen this at ESFB when I posted it... but here is one photo during those test runs. note that I'm towing a 51v 20ah Ping LiFePo4 battery pack and a 48v 12ah NCA frame battery pack from a battery supplier that I'm testing out from aliexpess. that trailer is freaking heavy and had to tow that back up a long uphill road... around 5.5% avg grade for a mile. it did manage to survive 2 of this test rides so far.
 

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lantice13 said:
You sure you got the BB on right? one side should be longer than the other

I pulled the crankset off today and found both sides of the spindle stick out ~37mm. Also went ahead and removed the front shifter.

Had to improvise a bike stand with an engine hoist. Now to figure out why I suck at adjusting the rear derailleur (shifts to the larger cogs, won't go back down to the small ones :()...
 

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Took it out for a spin at 16S. I'm now converted to the 'mid drive' way of things.

That said, I want more torque (not top end). I have a Lyen 12fet that I'd like to use to slowly start upping the amperage. Can someone post a screenshot of the recommended config?
 
Define config
I also have a 12fet from em3ev
 
emaayan said:
Define config
I also have a 12fet from em3ev

Just screenshots of the config tool (XPD, Keywin,etc) for things like hall setting, phase amps, and the weird timing options.

At present it's configured for a rear hub motor and I'm curious if things like the hall angle or ratio of phase to normal current amps differ.
 
actually i never used xpd, just the paramter designer paul provided, i also never played around with the parameters regarding the gng.


on another note, my machinist finished the tensioner arm,and along with the pulley, it seems it would fit right in,i'll check it in the evening.

IMG_20150430_114822.jpg



IMG_20150430_114830.jpg
 
adriftatsea said:
lantice13 said:
You sure you got the BB on right? one side should be longer than the other

I pulled the crankset off today and found both sides of the spindle stick out ~37mm. Also went ahead and removed the front shifter.

Had to improvise a bike stand with an engine hoist. Now to figure out why I suck at adjusting the rear derailleur (shifts to the larger cogs, won't go back down to the small ones :()...
lol how come emaayan got a bb that is longer on one side..... sigh.... then again the one that came with my kit is even on both sides. anyway does the inner ring still rubs on the frame? yeah compared to my 10T MAC geared hub cruiser, this thing kinda slow in climbing. always had to drop to the granny gear or the 2nd gear. 11mph on granny gear and 14mph on 2nd gear. beyond that my rear cassette starts skipping and it doesn't add speed any longer. it's fast on the flats though but consumes 1.1kw constant. which is not good at 28mph.....my dual motor ebike can do that speed using 700w-800w both motor running. :? anyway the rear shock of this bike blew so can't ride it till next week when I get replacement shocks . hopefully my kelly controller arrives next week as well.
 
well, got my spider, to my tensioner, assembled the crank, and started riding, no chain drops.

then a couple of minutes later. something broke, 2 spokes on the rear wheel!! dman you goddess of misfortune (shakes his fists) why must you toy me so??? :cry: :cry:
IMG_20150501_131055.jpg
 
That tensioner looks really nice. What it is made out of (UHMWPE, teflon, ...)?
 
adriftatsea said:
That tensioner looks really nice. What it is made out of (UHMWPE, teflon, ...)?

I have no idea, i the wheel was taken from this http://www.ebay.com/itm/391093848717?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT the arm is too big..
 
does anyone know what kind of chain is used between fanphy and the crank? initially i thought it was this thing, http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/kmc-z610hx-3-32-inch-chain-silver-prod13478/

but the links seem to be too narrow at times and don't fit fanphy very well..
 
i think i'm gonna to create a custom spider.

it seems that no matter what i do, the spider always fall on the chain line stright to driven sprocket . the 104 bcd one, doesnt' have a sunken holes like it's counter part so i i can't even screw the freewheel all the way. but even the 5 holes one doesn't exactly line up.

the solution i think of is to create a spider, with a sunken circle for the freewheel to fall into, this would shift the spider to the left and should allow for proper chainline.

15%2B-%2B1


i also thought about using my philwood bb, but the left cup doesn't seem to be attaching to the cartridge.

15%2B-%2B1
 
Going to get the 48v chain drive kit for 320 shipped off alieexpress, then the Isis crankset upgrade off sick bike parts.

Was thinking about upgrading stock controller for a 30amp version, is 35 too much?
 
you should double and triple check the chainline with the isis bb , there's a problem with 4 bolt spider vs the 5 one in that the 4 bolt one doesn't have sunken bolts pattern (which means you'll have to have a spacer on the crank arm) which doesnt' go so well)
 
I guess I never post my bikes here too often. lol here you go. My current setup for this kit.
 

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hello I have this kit and the single speed pinion has broken, does anyone know how I can release it?https://www.gngebike.com/60v650w-brushless
 
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