New GNG Mid Drive Brushless 60V650W

[dusan]

I am running #25 on primary and BMX on secondary.
But I would say, main problem is jackshaft and if needed proper place of its freewheel.
You could be probably able to replace secondary with #25 but need to move shaft freewheel onto primary side.

 

[emaayan]

btw the primary chain version doesn't seem to have any idler. am i correct?
it doesn't look like the driver sprocket has any bolts.
other then that i'm not chain expert but that really looks like the same 219 teeth i have.

 

[dusan]

Shouldn't have
Actually, best option for secondary is also without tensioner.
Some people did replacement with BMX spindle. They surely moved freewheel onto primary side.
I was only investigating that possibility with available freewheel adapter.
http://www.staton-inc.com/store/index.php?p=catalog&mode=search&parent=0&mid=0&search_in=all&search_str=adaptor+freewheel&pg=1
But you still have to modify jackshaft spindle
#25 on secondary could help your crankset freewheel or at all. There will be less tension pressure even with secondary chainring.
Difference between #25 and 219 is big, mostly about possibility to get rid of tensioner, also is quiter and until 1kW permanent it's fine.
And that's way of working, you will never need more than 1kW if properly geared.

 

[emaayan]

Shouldn't have
Actually, best option for secondary is also without tensioner.
Some people did replacement with BMX spindle. They surely moved freewheel onto primary side.
I was only investigating that possibility with available freewheel adapter.
http://www.staton-inc.com/store/index.php?p=catalog&mode=search&parent=0&mid=0&search_in=all&search_str=adaptor+freewheel&pg=1
But you still have to modify jackshaft spindle
#25 on secondary could help your crankset freewheel or at all. There will be less tension pressure even with secondary chainring.
Difference between #25 and 219 is big, mostly about possibility to get rid of tensioner, also is quiter and until 1kW permanent it's fine.

kinda lost you there, why shouldn't there a tensioner if the chain is loose? i recall when spinningmagnets said there should be at least 5 teeth engaged (or was he talking about the belt alone)

modify the spindle (the jackshaft spindle, right? i always have major problems naming parts here ) it into what? i'd rather not modify existing parts into something irreversible, if i can have a machinist make a new one instead ( but i'll need to give him specific instructions)

are you suggesting to have the driven primary sprocket run on a freewheel (with a freewheel adapter ) and have a fixed 25 driver sprocket on the secondary side? if that's so the i'll need a secondary driven 25# sprocket with a 64 bcd?

i recall there's was a huge debate somewhere on the pro's and cons of 219 vs 25# roller chain. i was told that 219 is stronger much more durable then 25. are you saying that because the 25 chain has smaller links , it gives you more finer grained control on the length and thus get rid of the tensioner?

 

[dusan]

Well, it depends, if chain loose then probably yes, but it shouldn't be.

Yes, that is another job

Tncscooter or similar http://www.electricscooterparts.com/sprockets25chain-motor.html

Yes, until 1kW you can use #25 with its benefits

 

[emaayan]

Well, it depends, if chain loose then probably yes, but it shouldn't be.

Yes, that is another job

Tncscooter or similar http://www.electricscooterparts.com/sprockets25chain-motor.html

Yes, until 1kW you can use #25 with its benefits

Those look like sprockets that would replace the phanfay freewheel
So under 1000 Watts go for 25 without tensoiner, more ,use bycicle chain with tensioner ?

 

[ebike11]

great great design
with this new VERSION THERE ARE NO MORE PROBLEM of bending and torsion like the old sheet frame, i see.
and it's cheap

Haha dont think there will be no more problems. About have the kit is good and the other half needs to be replaced. Plus they increased their price by about $100
Jon also is a terrible seller to deal with when it comes to communication

100 usd more? sorry but it's almost the same price as before.. changing a chain and a sprocket is not HALF the kit, this is not true..you can check what others did on this kit on this thread!
my friend took it and had no problems with Jon..what problems did you report?

Ah sorry bud.. it was 100 cheaper!! It was 328 u.s plus shipping
Is your price including shipping?????
And jon is a headache to deal with..half the time doesnt answer emails

 

[ebike11]

Ill wager at post 600 posts someone will be banned from this thread also haha

 

[emaayan]

i took apart a heatsink chain tensioner (i ironically thought i would need for l-r's kit) and wondered would happenned if i'll use one of the mounting holes (the ones l-r is using for his belt guard)
i'm holding it manually cause natrually i don't have an m5 button bolt long enough, but this is the result, if i could just get it to set back with a spring..

 

[emaayan]

lantic have how have you been able to place the red freewheel in the tensioner? it would seems the bolt that comes with it is too big

further more i'm assuming the to plastic caps are dust covers for the crank arms, but i can't figure out the long bolt and the spacer for

 

[r3volved]

Plastic is indeed for the cranks
The spacer and bolt is probably meant to attach the downtube mount? My mount had a spacer on one side to offset the bracket in line with the downtube.

 

[emaayan]

i thought the hose clamp is used for the downtube, how would you use the bold and spacer?

 

[r3volved]

Ah that's neat
The old kit had a little bracket that bolted there at the jack shaft. The bracket is fixed to downtube with hose clamp.

Not sure what that bolt is for then.

 

[emaayan]

guess that's the advantage of being Chinese, you can shape everything the way you want it.

i also noticed that the fins here are slightly longer then i saw in previous gng motors
although i would think that theoreticaly you could do the same with previous motors if you completely shave off the bolt housing and insert a similar bracket of your own.

i'm gonna wait a few more hours,till i get a drill and enlarge the hole in the. tensioner i hate irreversible changes

 

[lantice13]

lantic have how have you been able to place the red freewheel in the tensioner? it would seems the bolt that comes with it is too big

further more i'm assuming the to plastic caps are dust covers for the crank arms, but i can't figure out the long bolt and the spacer for

the red tesioner wheel got a bolt already. I just screw it in. I also have that spare spacer and long bolt. it might be spares if something snaps. not really sure what it for. the kit works without it. I just finished the wiring and fired her up the first time. Man that thing is loud. it sounds like a sowing machine. I'll upload it later... I need sleep. z.z.z.z.z.z.z.z.z.z.... I uploaded it at ESFB though but the quality is kinda bad due to compression.

 

[emaayan]

the bolt i'm holding IS the bolt from the freewheel, i just held it to show it does't go in. was it hard to screw it ? does the tensioner hole has threads in it?

 

[lantice13]

If the red wheel is attached to it then yes it is. you just screw it on the tesnioner arm. mine is threaded.

 

[emaayan]

and mine is not, i guess it's a production failure, time to visit my machinist, i also wonder if he'll have spring. didn't you find that primary chain too loose?

btw does anyone of there are any adapters for THIS shaft that can make it accept a standard freewheel.

other then that i'm thinking a possible option for using a 104 or 110 bcd spider, the crank they provided is ... weird.

the crank arms they provided have the freewheel threading sawed off. it took me a while to figure out, but it seems you just run the bb spindle in through their spider and the crank arm and close it with the bolt . i have no idea why they did it this way. but i know why the spindle is so long.

 

[lantice13]

they had a tensioner on the primary chain on the earlier version. seems like they took it out because it reduces the noise a bit. there is a video of that being demonstrated. I think the links can be reduced if needed be. don't like adding more tensioners on the drivetrain since its gonna rub power. I'm using 100w just spinning the first 2 reduction and not connected to the wheel yet.

 

[emaayan]

Reduce noise? I thought the loose chain would increase it.
I'm thinking if i could get an adapters for both sides of the jackshaft then i'm Golden cause then on the left side i could use a flange freewheel with l-r adapter plate, and get standard 219 driven sprockets
On the right side i could get better freewheel larger that might rid me of the tensioners at all.

 

[lantice13]

Reduce noise? I thought the loose chain would increase it.

with the stock ideler they had on the older version.... yes it will. more chatter going on with the chain and the metal roller tensioner used in the old design. did you read up the beginning of this thread? anyway if you really dont like the noise that the whole setup will make, with tensoner or not, you should had gone with the belt version.

 

[lantice13]

here is the video of my first power on test without load. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lrq8k4lm7sg&feature=youtu.be

 

[emaayan]

noise is a low priority unless it indicates a problem
i prefer perefer strength, i would think the tensioner would cause more teeth to be engaged

 

[emaayan]

well threaded the chain tensioer and added another one to the primary, next up, checking the motor.

 

[emaayan]

initial setup working, (with primiary tensioner) although there's more noise but i don't see much difference in wattage.

[youtube]pvRNH-Dyxu8[/youtube]

btw by comparison here's how my ecospeed with enhanced bmc drive sounds like:

[youtube]lwK0ENbAHyo[/youtube]