j bjork
1 MW
Cool, is pin 12 a ground pin on yours? Does it say version somewhere? The new v4 of the smaller controllers have some sort of 3speed switch input on pin 12.
Street legal Cafe Racer build.
- Thread starter PK2000
- Start date
Very expensive, heavy, and large teeth....
It feels good to have the time to work on the bike again.
This morning I made these bits:
I turned an M12 (should have been a 14 or 16) x 1.25 thread on the end of the output shaft and ground a 4 degree taper on the end.
The output flange does double duty as the oil seal face, so it took some work holding trickery to maintain it's surface finish. It has a matching taper on the ID. Finally there's a nut to hold them together.
The output flange bolts up to a flange on the drive shaft.
Made a few spacers from some stainless stock and got the front case mounted to the motor
This morning I made these bits:
I turned an M12 (should have been a 14 or 16) x 1.25 thread on the end of the output shaft and ground a 4 degree taper on the end.
The output flange does double duty as the oil seal face, so it took some work holding trickery to maintain it's surface finish. It has a matching taper on the ID. Finally there's a nut to hold them together.
The output flange bolts up to a flange on the drive shaft.
Made a few spacers from some stainless stock and got the front case mounted to the motor
Is there a keyway between the output and coupling or just the M12 and taper fit holding the torque?
No keyway, just a tapered interference fit of the output coupling on the 25mm shaft.
Ok, I'm no mechanical engineer but have always noticed a keyway or splines when working on cars for power/torque transfer couplings. Based on the quality of your previous work in this build I'm sure you've done the calcs and it's all good.
Tap
The hub section of the coupling is quite thin (35mm OD, with a 25mm bore), so the plan is to shrink and press fit the hub onto the shaft, then measure the OD to get a feel for how much stretch happened. If I can measure 0.05mm then I reckon it'll hold and I might still have a chance of getting it off one day.
Hey, if it slips, I'll put it back on, drill and slide a round key in there. Or just weld it....
Taper fits are a little hard to calculate, but a shrink fit of 0.025mm (1 thou) in a 25mm shaft with 20mm of engagement is good for 200Nm of torque.
The hub section of the coupling is quite thin (35mm OD, with a 25mm bore), so the plan is to shrink and press fit the hub onto the shaft, then measure the OD to get a feel for how much stretch happened. If I can measure 0.05mm then I reckon it'll hold and I might still have a chance of getting it off one day.
Hey, if it slips, I'll put it back on, drill and slide a round key in there. Or just weld it....
