The ongoing tales of a fool and his E bike

Well I must make a note to self:

Buy another charger stupid if you plan to leave the only one you have at work.

So had to catch a cab today, worked out an interesting journey. The cab took about 35 minutes each way, I ride it in 50-60 so I am absolutely rapt that Im only taking just under twice the amount of time it takes to drive. I had thought driving could be done in 20 min. But theres really some useless traffic lights plus the way I go is more direct, the car way takes a detour in the middle, away from work adds about 4 k I reckon.

Plusssss it rained all day, so I stayed dry!
 
Hi Mickk
where would you buy another charger for your bike?

please note I also own a green e-wheels
 
Ah well, serves me right for waiting for someone else to tremove their back wheel first.

Arrived at work this morning and noticed I had a dead flat rear tyre 5 minutes later, Bugger.

I snipped off the three cable ties holding the cable that enters the back axle, easy enough. Both bolts came off easily enough too. Slipped the wheel out OK after dislodging the chain. The hard part was balancing the wheel attached by the cable. I used a large box to sit it on and leant it against a wall. It would be hard to do this on the side of the road, you will have to use a fence, park seat etc, or another person.

It turned out I had a snake bite from the train tracks. Lucky it was on the way to work, not home.

I replaced the tube with a 700c one that fit OK enough, as the tyre is so large a crease doesnt matter. So tomorrow I put on the slime tube and slick tyre. I didnt re tie the cable to the frame today and it went fine so is a short term option no problem.

So for anyone who has stripped the gears and needs to remove the wheel, its easy :wink:
 
Ok well both slicks are on. Today was hard to really judge the difference due to cross winds. Averaged 30.7 kph pedaling, but not trying, it did feel faster, was a lot quieter too. I also pumped the tyres to abt 60 on a dodgy petrol station pump, my Zefal needs new seals, so I will have to check the pressure to be sure, but they are pretty hard. Smaller than the originals and more controlled expansion of the tyre up not out.

I started off at abt 25kph remember, then with one slick on the front, tightened suspension it went up to abt 28 and now might be 30kph. I think I guessed at getting another 10% out of it, so it will be interesting if I can maintain this new speed.

Im sure a mathematician could do the sums on the diff tyre specs, but when I look at them, I can see the extra 5kph coming from less and tighter rubber on the road easily enough.
 
I just cant crack that 30k average in normal conditions. However I can claim a healthy 28 and a bit over hust over 1500k in about 6 weeks. Riding it 5 or 6 days a week in all conditions.

I did notice a bit of water exiting the frame and fronk forks the other day when I had it upside down. I confess to not knowing how to maintain suspension forks. I guess its slurp a bit of oil on, press em up and down and give em a kiss.

I must get another charger for work to make life easier. I recharge at work, just to make sure I have a reserve as its not fun to pedal with out charge. Too much resistance. Although its possible to ride a 26inch mountain bike almost as well as a 700c, its not fun, the positions all wrong and I wont go on with an old racer rant.

Oh BTW, the seller Greenewheels has a new model coming out soon........thats all I know.
 
you can probably find the charger on ebay. Theres heaps. Go check out e-crazyman's ebay site and see if u find one. But Ask the guy that sells the greenewheels first. He might have some.

As to mick, i dont know why you were complaining about how hard it was to take the rear wheel off, but it wasnt! lol I havnt even took it off yet but when i look at the design i know it can be easily taken off. Were you talking about how the wires were locked by cable ties? Well you can cut those and buy some new cable ties, they are cheap, if not use sticky tape.

Yeh my gears kind of stripped already from overvolting so i have to replace the gears once its here. But the thing is i have to get rid of the 6speed freewheel first because i can open the motor up, which is the hard part because i have no tools.

Any alternative tools i can use guys? anyone know? i dont want to take it to the bike shop.
 
Ahhh tools, dont get me started, I once needed a screw for some shimano pedals, turned out to be "a number 10 marine thread" an old bloke in a Chandlers picked it on sight, 500 years of bike experience couldnt pick that. Look at a screw catalogue and the number of special tools required now days is a pain thats for sure. Id consider the lawn mower shop over the bike shop option, or perhaps see if that joint in FTG has a service dept.

Anyways, my throttle died today, the lights had died so I was provided with a replacement asap from the seller, just hadnt swapped it over yet as i have the same fears as I had with the back wheel: wires.

So far Im stuck at the "how to I get the handlebar grip off", stop laughing, it wont budge, usually I have used my #1 universal tool by now, the claw hammer, but have asked the seller for detailed instructions and the boys as well. Looks like once I actually get the throttle off, its remove battery slide, upend bike, unscrew bolts, avoiding controller falling on concrete, then undo some case screws, and find where the spade connections go. I hope theres no soldering involved.

So hopefully I can change the throttle tomorrow.
 
I did not name this thread without a lot of thought.

Memo to self:

After a big weekend and at 6am on a Monday morning, do not stop to adjust your music and let the handlebars turn so that the "red switch" bumps against your guts.

Honestly, I dont know why I did not consider the switch. I guess as I knew that I never touch it, and given the above circumstances and given my worries about how to get to work on PT, too busy at work and at home, that the idea did not enter my feeble head until I had the tools in my hand today and a bloke asked "whats the red switch"?

I was elated and embarassed to the max just before I clicked it over and launched the bike into him.

Sorta like calling a mechanic without checking battery or petrol I spose. Happens to the best of us sometimes, you poor thing mick.
 
Hi , i have purchased one of theses greenewheels bikes from joe, i wrote a ride report for some of my friends and i will post it to here as well
-------------------------
Ok so here’s the report on the bike….brilliant…J

I went for a ride on sat 35km round trip, was able to stand up straight walk around and not feel any pain.

Sun another 35km round trip ride, same the only thing I am feeling now is a very very slight strain in the quads, but nothing bad. I reckon I could go for another ride today without any problems.

I changed the seat to one from my old bike gel sprung, as you can go much further than normal I think it is a must have addition. (Saves your butt in more ways than one).

This was an excellent beginning as I have not done any serious riding for the last 5 years as I live near the top of a steep hill that I have never been able to get up without getting off the bike and pushing (not anymore made it with flying colours)

The only way I can describe the feeling is that it is like riding on a very slight decline all the time, and when you hit a hill it is flattened out, then if you start feeling like it is getting steeper you drop down another gear and the bike adds more power as if someone is pushing you along.

Very little power is added in the top gear it is all your own work but as you drop down the gears it gets progressively easier

Also, the throttle is great for starting off from the lights and getting you up to speed, but I hardly ever used the throttle I used it mainly in assist mode.

After the 35km rides the battery was still at half power according to the gauge on the bike
=================
addendum

I have ben riding the bike regularly to work in melbourne spring st, i live in ringwood, total one way distance down the easter freeway bike path is 32km. i have ordered a 2nd charger from joe and it will be delivered soon and i plan on leaving this at work.

i enquired about the price of the new 13ah 36v battery .... unfortunately way to expensive now...i will continue to use my 10ah and recharge it at work.

i have been doing about 3 rides a week and with 500 claimed full recharges that works out to 166 weeks which is 3 years, hopefully by then the battery technology will be out with the new silver batteries that claim to be 40% more powerfull



Regards Russell
 
Thats a fantastic report Russell and welcome to the club!

Goodonya for doing a 64K commute to work each day. Along a bike path, you lucky bugger! You must be saving about 60 bucks a week if you used to catch the train or saving about 100 bucks a week if you were driving! The bike will pay for itself in no time and you get some fresh air and exercise, great result.

Thats the best description of how pedal assist works Ive read. I just sit on full throttle and pedal in top gear, pedal assist remains a mystery to me.

Wait till you get a decent tail wind, youll be even happier! The other day I had a cross tail wind roaring along. By sticking my elbows out and knees almost at right angles, I was getting a 5 k increase in speed due to the sail effect.
 
dazzassj6 said:
you can probably find the charger on ebay. Theres heaps. Go check out e-crazyman's ebay site and see if u find one. But Ask the guy that sells the greenewheels first. He might have some.

As to mick, i dont know why you were complaining about how hard it was to take the rear wheel off, but it wasnt! lol I havnt even took it off yet but when i look at the design i know it can be easily taken off. Were you talking about how the wires were locked by cable ties? Well you can cut those and buy some new cable ties, they are cheap, if not use sticky tape.

Yeh my gears kind of stripped already from overvolting so i have to replace the gears once its here. But the thing is i have to get rid of the 6speed freewheel first because i can open the motor up, which is the hard part because i have no tools.

Any alternative tools i can use guys? anyone know? i dont want to take it to the bike shop.
Click to expand...

If the motor is a Bafang, U can leave the freewheel on! I comes off with the cover after opening the screws (carefully) U dont wanna strip them!
otherDoc
 
1000K congrats!

Yes they just potter along nicely so far.

Its important for other Aussies wanting to buy these to be able to read "going well" rather than a month of silence. Sp far a very credible alternative to the $2000+ alternatives out there.

I noticed a front drive one the other day round here with 2 grey batt packs on the rear carrier and another that had a batt box on the packrack. My only sightings of other ebikes to date.
 
288y493.jpg


2d9wj7l.jpg


The torn saddle did not come wit the bike btw. You can see the diff pedals and tyres. Its dressed for "commuter mode".

My average daily cost is now down to 20 bucks a day, 10 bucks each way if you divide cost/days ridden to work. Its 100 bucks a day if you catch a cab, I dunno how much juice a car uses in 50k, at 1.60 a litre I reckon I win! I think its down to 1.20 now. Electric bike sales have shattered the world demand for oil so the price has crashed. :roll:

Im now thinking I might sell it on ebay in january and upgrade to the later model. I will replace the bearings and blocks, leave the pedals on, put the new seat back on etc etc and I reckon 400 would be a good buy with the better tyres on it too. Then it will have cost me about 8 bucks a bay, less than a bus fare! The fact that I dont really climb any hills, the steepest would be the end of corrigan road about 300 metres long, and I can ride up it in 54/12 other bike without getting out of the saddle, so I call it a slope, is a bonus. I reclon I have the perfect route for an electric motor. A bloke told me once that the best way to ruin an electric motor was to run em hot. I figure short sharp steep hills would really tax a motor and make it really hot. I read here somewhere of a bloke whos hub motor gets really hot. I always feel mine and its never much more than ambient temp. I spose someone has a gauge on their bike that measures just that!
 
I just got my Schwalbe Marathon plus tyres.. have put the front one on (easy!) and will tackle the rear one soon.
Not much else to report, I continue to ride to work on it when it isn't raining.

I have hit a limit on the bicycle part of the vehicle - the 6 speed 14T-28T rear freewheel doesn't give me a fast enough gear.. Looking at options for installing a 11T or 12T 7 speed one if it fits, but I'm in no rush, a project for further down the track.
 
Hi guys
I have been experimenting with greenewheels bike
some things you may want to know.
motor is similar to but doesn't appear to be a bafang (gears are different as is the housing) bafang make several models though
I have successfully overvolted the standard controller to 55v nominal (63v peak)
minor electrical mods required
kept the 15a limit as the motor looks to be wound for around 24v
done over 1000km, the motor is now a little noisy (gears) but still pulls like a train, estimated watts 750 at the wheel
I have now retired my greenewheels and built a bafang/giant full suspension running 55v with the modified greenewheels controller, bafang motor doesn't pull as hard but still has plenty for hills with a top speed around 35kmH no peddling.
I use RC lipo batteries which also keeps the weight of the complete rig to less than 17kg
anyway thought you might like to know, there is some overhead in the greenewheels bike for more grunt, easy mod just add 11.1v , 8ah lipo booster pack (about the size of a water bottle) no other mods required.
Be warned though you WILL NEED BETTER BRAKES
 
Well I changed jobs after my last post and didnt need it anymore, it broke a spoke and I lost the key to the battery so there it sits.

I am thinking of resurrecting it, what odds the battery doesnt work?

Anyways, I think, knowing what I know now, I want one of those 1200w 48A jobs, can anyone point me in the direction of a mountain bike or street type rear hub job. I want 100k per charge with a few hills thrown in. Ive lost the 200w paranoia.

Being out of it for a few years you might be able to save me some time.

thanks
 
mickk said:
Well I changed jobs after my last post and didnt need it anymore, it broke a spoke and I lost the key to the battery so there it sits.

I am thinking of resurrecting it, what odds the battery doesnt work?

Anyways, I think, knowing what I know now, I want one of those 1200w 48A jobs, can anyone point me in the direction of a mountain bike or street type rear hub job. I want 100k per charge with a few hills thrown in. Ive lost the 200w paranoia.

Being out of it for a few years you might be able to save me some time.

thanks
Click to expand...

I'd recommend a cell_man rear Mac eight turn motor. It will top out at just over 50 kph with some pedalling.

The 100km per charge might be rather difficult though. That's a very big battery if you going to maintain any type of decent speed.

At top speed with no trailer attached to the bike I would use between 20 to 25 watt hours per kilometre. A 48 volt 20 amp hour battery would only get you 40 to 50 kilometres using the same consumption figures.

Of course slow it right down and you will get farther range. You might get 100 kilometres from a fully discharged 20 amp hour battery if you reduce the speed to 25 kph. But really you should only be regularly discharging the battery to 80 per cent depth of discharge.

There are three main options for batteries. Ping's LiFePO4 or cell_man's A123. Pings will be a cheaper battery but the A123 is far superior. With the A123's especially, you should be looking at one to thousand cycles if you only regularly discharge to 80 per cent.

The third option is Lithium NMC which is the newest chemistry. It is far lighter than anything out there and should give multi-thousands of cycles. The only seller that is producing ready-to-use packs is Chicago Electric Bicycles. However, I have no idea how good these batteries are.

There is another option already mentioned on this thread, LiPo. Which is an inexpensive high performance battery. Nevertheless, I wouldn't recommend them as they need a lot of care and are potentially very dangerous. They are a far cry from just plug and charge.
 
I have a 48v lithium manganese battery from chicago electric bikes and it is awesome!.. I highly recommend if you're looking to go light. You may pay a little more but you will get a higher quality battery.
 
Lithium Manganese, it even sounds sexy.

How is it these days air freighting batteries around the world?
 
mickk said:
Lithium Manganese, it even sounds sexy.

How is it these days air freighting batteries around the world?
Click to expand...

The freighting bit is very easy. Customs duty though could add a bit on to it. In Ireland (EU-wide) duty is the VAT on both the value of the contents and the postage. And they have gotten strict recently. Australia is probably similar. Just things to consider. Best to talk to the vendors. You could send them emails and find out the prices. Two of them are members on this forum.

There are two downsides to the All Cell Lithium NMC from Chicago Electric Bicycles. The cycle life is listed as being greater than 700 cycles whereas the A123 is listed at 2,000 cycles. This suggests it won't do 1,000 cycles.

http://www.allcelltech.com/images/stories/AllCell_eBike_Battery.pdf

The second is the batteries have a low C-rate. 2 to 3C discharge as opposed to 30 C for the A123. If you have a 500 watt-hour battery (48 volt 10amp-hour battery) it will be able to provide 1000 watts to the motor if it is rated 2C. Whereas a battery with a 30 C rating could potentially provide 15,000 watts of juice.

The second point probably will not be an issue if you buy a big enough battery but the first remains. The figures by All Cell suggest the A123 battery will last longer.

I have had no experience with All Cell but I have two A123 batteries purchased from cell_man.

Read up and see what best suits.
 
Does a123 sell batteries to cell man, or are they counterfeit?
 
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