Recent content by HighTekBikes

For those of you who hate Paypal (as I do), Hightekbikes offers several alternatives for payment. All of them are better than Paypal. Standard Credit Card Processing through http://www.authorize.net Wepay http://www.wepay.com Set up exactly like paypal. Stripe http://www.stripe.com Another...

Testing and Replacing Hall Sensors in a MAC Motor When your motor runs rough, quits running or makes noise and runs hot, the first thing you should check is the hall sensors. It is 90% of all motor problems. Although you can test sensors with a voltmeter, Hightekbikes sells a handy tester for...

Knoxie, I don't give a damn who you are, you sound like a twit. The purpose of the forum is to help people with problems and share technical info. Your time must be worth nothing. Go stroke your ego somewhere else if you are not going to contribute something useful. Efold, I would suggest...

I spend an hour posting a very detailed explanation on how to repair a sensor that will help a lot of people. And you reply with a stupid nitwit comment. You disagree all you want. You don't know what the hell you are talking about.

For the benefit of Efold and anyone reading this thread, when your motor runs rough, quits running or makes noise and runs hot, the first thing you should check is the hall sensors. It is 90% of the motor problems. Someone posted a link to the tester, Lyen also has them locally, the labels on...

What happens if the switch is left on the resistor position? It either drains the battery or worse, they try to run the motor in that position. If something simple works for you, great. I have to take the average user into consideration. My circuit works perfectly with all controllers.

You want the momentary position to connect the resistor to the center connector, so double check with an ohm meter. You should have an inline fuse (battery or controller side) on the plus wire for safety reasons. These are available at your local auto parts store.

That frame is not suitable for a heavy or high powered motor. Any motor on the front fork might tear it off. My recommendation is a small geared motor on the back running at 36V and 15-20A. An example would be our mini-might motor (Ampedbikes/MXUS).

Nitwits like this guy pop up once in awhile. I've only had to deal with a few over the years, fortunately. Usually they burn something up due to incompetence, then demand a new replacement. If you don't jump and dance to their tune, they write a bad review. I think most readers of this forum...

We no longer accept Paypal, only credit cards. We got burnt by some joker who ordered a $2000 custom system, then returned it for no reason. Paypal said either issue a 100% refund or we will do a chargeback on you. Evidently this guy knew how to work the system. With shipping, handling and...

In answer to your questions: On all but the 30% grade it was light pedaling. It could probably make it up a 15% with no pedaling. I am very out of shape so the moderate pedaling on the 30% got me breathing hard but I was riding with one hand, sitting down so couldn't have been putting out more...

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Yes, you should use diodes so you don't have to worry about damaging your packs. Diodes in series with one of the output leads, usually the positive, on both packs will prevent one pack from discharing into the other one (with no over-voltage protection). An important point here, and this is...

This new Ali seller with no feedback and no contact info is selling "Bionx" kits for half dealer cost. These are manufactured in Canada. SCAM !