27.5” front 26” rear - Wheelbuilding

[E-HP]

Here’s the link for for the mxus I bought. I went with this seller because it was the fastest delivery. I’m supposed to receive mid April.
https://www.elecycles.com/mxus-3000w-motor-brushless-electric-bike-rear-hub-motor.html

You bought the 142mm version
https://1477051759.rsc.cdn77.org/media/catalog/product/cache/926507dc7f93631a094422215b778fe0/w/x/wxt-xf40_35-45h_-mxus-3000w.jpg

 

[Eastwood]

Actually Both links are exact same motor. If you read the specifications One says 135mm with singe freewheel. The other link says 142mm with 6 speed freewheel. They just label the motor two different ways for marketing purposes. So basically all mxus 3K with a single speed is 135mm and then it increases once you start adding multiple gears.

Really? The diagrams show that the dimensions are clearly different. 134.5mm vs. 142mm

https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/Hc71df8e652e84701908a5d01da78295fY.jpg
https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1b3RsMpXXXXcoXVXXq6xXFXXXU/221256497/HTB1b3RsMpXXXXcoXVXXq6xXFXXXU.jpg

has nothing to do with the freewheel. it's how the axle flats are cut.

Ahhh I see! Where did those images come from?
Well I’m glad I got the 142mm so I can have 6 gears.

 

[E-HP]

Ahhh I see! Where did those images come from?
Well I’m glad I got the 142mm so I can have 6 gears.

From the two links to the motors that I posted, and the link you posted.

 

[Eastwood]

Ahhh I see! Where did those images come from?
Well I’m glad I got the 142mm so I can have 6 gears.

From the two links to the motors that I posted, and the link you posted.

Here’s the official dimensions from CHANGZHOU MXUS IMP&EXP CO., LTD

They only show one option in the mxus 3K. The technical parameters says 142mm. The drawing diagram says 138.5.. kind of weird they list two different dimensions.

 

[Eastwood]

So I finally made my decision and ordered the 27.5”, Went with the Halo sas.
I haven’t ordered the spokes or nipples yet but I’ll post a link of the ones I plan on ordering.

Spokes, are these good??
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Custom-length-14g-2-0-1-8mm-DOUBLE-BUTTED-BLACK-Stainless-J-bend-bicycle-spokes-/264811576280?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292

For the nipples this company offers brass and aluminum and it seems like the aluminum would be better?
Nipples,
https://www.ebay.com/itm/14mm-RED-Alloy-Aluminum-spoke-nipple-14g-2-0mm-Custom-amounts-/283960643806?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292

This video is extremely helpful! I’ll be using this as a guide to build the wheel.
https://youtu.be/3OialWggZJo

 

[Chalo]

Spokes, are these good??
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Custom-length-14g-2-0-1-8mm-DOUBLE-BUTTED-BLACK-Stainless-J-bend-bicycle-spokes-/264811576280

The seller doesn't say what manufacturer the spokes come from, which isn't a good sign. Brands to look for are DT Swiss, Sapim, Wheelsmith, and Union/Marwi.

For the nipples this company offers brass and aluminum and it seems like the aluminum would be better?

Absolutely do not use aluminum nipples. They are inferior in every possible way to brass nipples, except weight and color choices. I work with wheels all the time that would be fine if they're been built with brass nipples, but are beyond repair because the aluminum nipples are stuck in place and/or breaking off at the head.

 

[Eastwood]

Brands to look for are DT Swiss, Sapim, Wheelsmith, and Union/Marwi.

OK good to know. thanks!

 

[Eastwood]

Absolutely do not use aluminum nipples. They are inferior in every possible way to brass nipples, except weight and color choices. I work with wheels all the time that would be fine if they're been built with brass nipples, but are beyond repair because the aluminum nipples are stuck in place and/or breaking off at the head.

OK I’ll look into the brass nipples

 

[Eastwood]

Brands to look for are DT Swiss, Sapim, Wheelsmith, and Union/Marwi.

Do you recommend any sources to buy spokes? Besides ebikes.ca ?

Would like to buy these but they’re sold out
https://ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/spokes/spcust14b.html

All the sources I’ve found in stock seem to be generic spokes.

 

[MadRhino]

DT Swiss and Sapim bicycle size spokes are available locally almost everywhere. Why buying online and wait, with the risk of errors or fraud that would require shipping back?

Pay a little more, get them quick and cut to length. The few times I purchased spokes online was for big orders, quantities that wouldn’t be found locally anyway, and there is considerable saving when buying by the whole boxes.

I buy online things that I like to stock on the shelves, things that can’t be found locally, or huge savings that is making it worthwhile. Bike maintenance is easier and faster with some home inventory, and knowledge of local market inventory.

 

[Eastwood]

DT Swiss and Sapim bicycle size spokes are available locally almost everywhere. Why buying online and wait, with the risk of errors or fraud that would require shipping back?

Pay a little more, get them quick and cut to length. The few times I purchased spokes online was for big orders, quantities that wouldn’t be found locally anyway, and there is considerable saving when buying by the whole boxes.

I buy online things that I like to stock on the shelves, things that can’t be found locally, or huge savings that is making it worthwhile. Bike maintenance is easier and faster with some home inventory, and knowledge of local market inventory.

OK, I’ll check with my local bike shop. I never use local bike shops for parts so it wasn’t on my radar. Good to know!

 

[Chalo]

Brands to look for are DT Swiss, Sapim, Wheelsmith, and Union/Marwi.

Do you recommend any sources to buy spokes? Besides ebikes.ca ?

This guy seems to be the real deal:
https://www.spokesfromryan.com/product/sapim-race-spokes-silver-double-butted-j-bend/

I haven't dealt with him, but his prices are similar to the best wholesale sources I have.

 

[Eastwood]

Brands to look for are DT Swiss, Sapim, Wheelsmith, and Union/Marwi.

Do you recommend any sources to buy spokes? Besides ebikes.ca ?

This guy seems to be the real deal:
https://www.spokesfromryan.com/product/sapim-race-spokes-silver-double-butted-j-bend/

I haven't dealt with him, but his prices are similar to the best wholesale sources I have.

Thanks Chalo!

 

[Eastwood]

Mxus xf40 45h
Thats what i used and it seemed spot on dimension wise for the 3k.

OK so I’m ready to order the spokes! The motor will be here mid April and the halo wheel should be here this coming week.

I really want to make sure I order the appropriate length spokes! So it looks like I need 178.9 mm left and 178.2 mm right. Does this sound correct guys? I’m using the mxus xf40-45h in the hub setting as they don’t have the mxus 3K listed. As you can see in the picture I have the lacing option selected “OUT” as recommended in the grind.ca hub lacing video. Is this correct?

I’m really hoping this mxus xf40-45h is the same dimensions? :? I guess that’s the best setting for the mxus 3K??

27.5” halo sas ERD is 565
For the spokes I will go with these, and with brass nipples.
Wheelsmith DH13 Spokes Butted 13g / 14g 2.0/2.3mm

Thanks for all the help thus far!! Please correct me if anything is wrong.

 

[Chalo]

Try putting the left side spokes inside the flange, and see if that doesn't even up the tension ratio.

Round up to the next longer whole size when ordering spokes.

 

[Eastwood]

Try putting the left side spokes inside the flange, and see if that doesn't even up the tension ratio.

Round up to the next longer whole size when ordering spokes.

OK I’ll try that on the spoke calculator. Would that not compromise the wheel build, spokes being inside the flange and the other side out? Is it critical to get the spoke tension even on both sides?
So it seems like the side with the higher tension would break easier is that correct?

 

[Eastwood]

Try putting the left side spokes inside the flange, and see if that doesn't even up the tension ratio.

Round up to the next longer whole size when ordering spokes.

Yeah that improved the tension 49 : 51

 

[Chalo]

Try putting the left side spokes inside the flange, and see if that doesn't even up the tension ratio.

Round up to the next longer whole size when ordering spokes.

OK I’ll try that on the spoke calculator. Would that not compromise the wheel build, spokes being inside the flange and the other side out? Is it critical to get the spoke tension even on both sides?
So it seems like the side with the higher tension would break easier is that correct?

Evenness of spoke tension is good because there's a practical maximum tension you can use without cracking or puckering the rim, twisting up the spokes, rounding off nipples, etc. When spoke tension is uneven, that means that one side can be at maximum tension, but the other side must be looser-- with less ability to bear weight or resist unscrewing.

Equal tension on both sides means symmetrical strength and maximum ability of the wheel to bear loads reliably.

 

[Ianhill]

The wheel should be a gooden when spoked up nice, What power will you be running it and whats your plans on torque arms ? Any pics of the frame and dropout area you be locating the beast.

That a2b metro i had really was a chugger its a low kv varient in a 20 inch wheel, i only run it 10s 40 batt amps and it would climb really well heavy back end and lurchy suspension fron a single pivot design but as a commuter id be dropping road bikes on my 10 mile stretch its was a real marmite bike that one either love or hate it hope amiran enjoys it he had that for a steal.

 

[Eastwood]

Evenness of spoke tension is good because there's a practical maximum tension you can use without cracking or puckering the rim, twisting up the spokes, rounding off nipples, etc. When spoke tension is uneven, that means that one side can be at maximum tension, but the other side must be looser-- with less ability to bear weight or resist unscrewing.

Equal tension on both sides means symmetrical strength and maximum ability of the wheel to bear loads reliably.

OK that makes perfect sense! So that being said do you recommend that I put the elbow in on the left side to even up the tension or should I lace with both elbows out?
Elbows both “out” 45 : 55
left “in” right “out” 49: 51
putting the left elbow “in” the spoke tension is more even but my worry is side to side strength because each side elbows are both facing the same direction. I’m not sure if that should be a concern of mine? Is this common with hub motor lacing with both side elbows facing the same direction to help with the tension? I’ve done so much reading online but I can’t find too much info on the elbows facing in or out with hub motors.

 

[Eastwood]

The wheel should be a gooden when spoked up nice, What power will you be running it and whats your plans on torque arms ? Any pics of the frame and dropout area you be locating the beast.

That a2b metro i had really was a chugger its a low kv varient in a 20 inch wheel, i only run it 10s 40 batt amps and it would climb really well heavy back end and lurchy suspension fron a single pivot design but as a commuter id be dropping road bikes on my 10 mile stretch its was a real marmite bike that one either love or hate it hope amiran enjoys it he had that for a steal.

Power wise sabvoton controller with a 72v battery 60amp BMS 20amp hour. I’ll post a picture later

 

[ilu]

OK that makes perfect sense! So that being said do you recommend that I put the elbow in on the left side to even up the tension or should I lace with both elbows out?
Elbows both “out” 45 : 55
left “in” right “out” 49: 51
putting the left elbow “in” the spoke tension is more even but my worry is side to side strength because each side elbows are both facing the same direction. I’m not sure if that should be a concern of mine? Is this common with hub motor lacing with both side elbows facing the same direction to help with the tension? I’ve done so much reading online but I can’t find too much info on the elbows facing in or out with hub motors.

I was pondering the same question when lacing a hub motor wheel recently, and the conclusion I found from this forum is that the elbow direction doesn't make any significant difference concerning the wheel strenght. Either go by the spoke tension or whatever is the easiest to lace.

 

[MadRhino]

When possible we lace single cross alternate motorcycle pattern. One spoke out, the next inside of the flange and crossing under the previous. That is best and most common, but there are some good reasons to lace different: dishing, rim width, spoke J-bend angle...

 

[Eastwood]

I was pondering the same question when lacing a hub motor wheel recently, and the conclusion I found from this forum is that the elbow direction doesn't make any significant difference concerning the wheel strenght. Either go by the spoke tension or whatever is the easiest to lace.

Thank you for clarifying that!

When possible we lace single cross alternate motorcycle pattern. One spoke out, the next inside of the flange and crossing under the previous. That is best and most common, but there are some good reasons to lace different: dishing, rim width, spoke J-bend angle...

Yeah I noticed this pattern on both my hub motors that came laced in a wheel. It almost makes it more confusing for a beginner because there’s so many options :lol:
But it’s good to know that we have options to work around dishing, rim width etc.
Now with alternating “in and out” it seems that you wouldn’t be able to get the tension ratio as close, is that correct?

 

[Eastwood]

Any pics of the frame and dropout area you be locating the beast.

Here’s a few pictures of my current motor installed in the dropouts. The opening as of now is measuring about 145mm. My torque arms are pretty generic, I just drilled an extra hole in the torque arms to screw into the frame for both sides. I’ll make a new ones if I need something beefier for the new motor. Considered fabricating a custom swingarm but probably too much work for this bike.