Over the last couple of nights I have been working towards adding new halls to my C80100 outrunner. 2 nights ago I got the motor apart.
I used a 3 jaw puller to pull the bell off. I had already pushed the shaft down and reinforced the union between the shaft and the bell some time back. This made pushing off the shaft and bell via the bottom of the motor pretty straight forward. I was able to turn the screw on the puller with finger strength only to extract the bell. Everything comes apart slowly and easily and 100% under control. There is no way to accidentally loose control and have the bell come slamming back onto the stator. When I was done with adding halls, I put the bell back on the same way I took it off. I used the puller to slowly lower it back onto the stator. The puller jaws are around the base of the motor and the screw is pushing on the motor shaft and that is locked to the bell so it all comes off in one piece. All I had to do was remove the 4 screws that attach the skirt bearing to the bottom of the bell.
Then I started adding the halls...
The first thing I did was add some hot glue into the gap in the windings behind where the halls would sit and then shoved a q-tip into that. This provides a stable backer for the hall until the JB weld gets applied. The q-tip end gets a nice soaking with super glue before hand to make it semipermeable and yet solid. Then I put a dot of super glue on it and stuck down the 3 halls.
Once the super glue had firmed up, I added short lengths of color coded pre-shrunk heat shrink to each leg. It makes knowing what pin is which easy and I also already knew which hall paired with which phase so I color coded that leg too. This is obviously the blue hall. I want the last 1/8" of the halls legs exposed for soldering. The rest gets covered up.
I prepared teflon wires for soldering to the halls. I make single continuous power wires that go to all 3 halls. At the correct length I remove the insulation on a 1/4" section, bend it in half and then tin that section for soldering to the hall later. This is my power wires. I make the sections a bit longer than needed so that I'm not pulling on one hall to make up the connection at the next hall. I was asked by someone why I don't use cut sections of wire and then solder 2 sections to the hall pin. It can be done, but holding 2 small wires to a hall leg and then soldering them to the leg while keeping the solder connection small and tight is not easy. Stripping the insulation off, bending the bared part in half and then soldering that to the hall leg is sooooo much easier to do. Everything is held together for me already. All my solder locations on any wire are pretinned before they ever get soldered to anything. I dip the bare wire in flux and I always have a blob of used solder sitting on my bench. I melt the solder blob and then dip the wire in the blob. Solder flows into the bare wire end and it is tinned. I do this for any sized wires. There is nothing wrong with used solder. I melt my various drops of solder together into a bigger blob and reuse it for tinning wire ends. Anyone who solders a lot (me) has lots of waste solder. I melt it off old boards, wires, over flow from my current work...whatever and reuse it. A small tub of solder flux makes cleaning it up easy and of course any wire gets dipped in flux before it is dipped in the solder blob anyway. The solder blob stays pretty clean.
There's always a hall that's farthest away from the exit point for the hall wires. I start there. This blue hall is further away from the exit hole than is the other hall nearest to the the exit hole. That decided it was the starting spot. As you can see my solder connections are very small and clean. No limps or grunge in my connections. Since my wires are already pretinned and my soldering iron is clean and just barely wet with solder, heating the connection flows solder over the connection very nicely. The second picture is zoomed in so you can see the solder connection much better. If you solder, strive to make your connections look like this. You can't see it in the picture, but I precut sections of color coded heat shrink that are already on the wires. Once the solder connections are done, the heat shrink goes over the exposed connection.
This is the second hall and is directly opposite from the exit hole. It has the first bent over section in the power wires. I use slightly larger diameter heat shrink to get around the 2 thicknesses of wire.
and the third hall...
This is what a hall looks like after the heat shrink is applied. There's very little chance the halls legs or solder connection will ever touch anything they shouldn't.
Next I apply some JB weld on top of the hall and around it so that it is buried under epoxy and won't ever come loose.
Next comes securing and routing the wires. Since they are very close to the skirt bearing, it is important to keep them from rubbing on anything that moves and to keep them from moving or vibrating. Movement in the wires allows for them to slowly break or to stress the halls legs until they break off. I don't want that to ever happen so it all gets buried in more epoxy.
Since I had the motor apart, this is the factory hall board. BUT the important thing is that I had sealed ceramic bearings in the size this motor uses. Of course I replaced the shielded steel bearings with the much smoother, sealed and lower friction ceramics!
Finally it was time to put the motor back together again. I put the new hall wires in their own heat shrink tube and then routed that through the heat shrink that held everything else, installed the skirt bearing over all of that, reattached the motor bottom bracket and then proceeded to lower the bell back onto the stator in reverse of how I took it off. Easy peazy...nice, slow and controlled.
I hand turned the motor feeling for any roughness where something might be touching or scraping and listened for any odd sounds. I looked in the vent holes too and everything was good to go. Tonight, I'll connect up an IP68 connector to the end of the hall wires and then I can try out the new halls.
which one shows the voltage you are running the motor at and the gear reduction ? and is their 2 voltage and speed options to compare 48v and 72v ? some of the columns are not labelled.
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