An Advanced Friction Drive System

Kepler,

Wow man - that's some night and day from the friction drive uber light setup!

Can't say I blame ya though, although somehow I don't believe the prefix: OFFROAD :)

-Mike
 
You didn't get any old stealth bomber either. You got the souped up 10kW....

Cool.
 
mwkeefer said:
Kepler,

Wow man - that's some night and day from the friction drive uber light setup!

Can't say I blame ya though, although somehow I don't believe the prefix: OFFROAD :)

-Mike
Click to expand...

Ok, maybe just a little onroad then :)
 
Everytime I drop in on John, I avoid riding his bikes..... because I knew if I did, I would end up laying down the cash and be leaving on one.

Now I know I was right to be concerned. :lol:

I hope people have the same experience with your drive.
 
Hi guys, I'm a new member on these forums. I'm after a simple system that can propel my bike at a decent speed and this friction drive system seems to fit the criteria. Only problem is that I would prefer to use a knobby downhill tire on the rear which is the main issue since I know it will wear out the tread in no time. So I was wondering if there is any possible way to overcome this? Perhaps producing another layer of material with the inverted pattern of the desired tire on the roller so it kind of meshes together when in contact? I'm not really sure if that would work too well but maybe someone here can come up with a solution for this, otherwise I'll have to stick with using a semi slick :(
 
Syndicated said:
Hi guys, I'm a new member on these forums. I'm after a simple system that can propel my bike at a decent speed and this friction drive system seems to fit the criteria. Only problem is that I would prefer to use a knobby downhill tire on the rear which is the main issue since I know it will wear out the tread in no time. So I was wondering if there is any possible way to overcome this? Perhaps producing another layer of material with the inverted pattern of the desired tire on the roller so it kind of meshes together when in contact? I'm not really sure if that would work too well but maybe someone here can come up with a solution for this, otherwise I'll have to stick with using a semi slick :(
Click to expand...

Check out cruiser tires. They work great with friction drive and do a good job off road too. You can also find off road tires with aggressive tread on the outside and a semi-smooth center surface. Lots of options out there if you decide to go that route.

Here is my current favorite tire for friction drive: http://www.niagaracycle.com/product_info.php?products_id=1384
 
Syndicated said:
Hi guys, I'm a new member on these forums. I'm after a simple system that can propel my bike at a decent speed and this friction drive system seems to fit the criteria. Only problem is that I would prefer to use a knobby downhill tire on the rear which is the main issue since I know it will wear out the tread in no time. So I was wondering if there is any possible way to overcome this? Perhaps producing another layer of material with the inverted pattern of the desired tire on the roller so it kind of meshes together when in contact? I'm not really sure if that would work too well but maybe someone here can come up with a solution for this, otherwise I'll have to stick with using a semi slick :(
Click to expand...

If you are set on using full nobby tires, this sort of drive is not for you. Also the drive is more for road and bike path commuters rather then off road users. Packed gravel is fine but loose mud that sticks to the tire is not ideal.

As Todd says, there are plenty of hybrid tires that work really well with friction drives.
 
EVTodd said:
You can also find off road tires with aggressive tread on the outside and a semi-smooth center surface.
Click to expand...

Yeah that's pretty much on the lines of what I had in mind. I did some research and found out that Maxxis also make a DH specific semi slick tire which is fortunate - http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=5846

Kepler said:
If you are set on using full nobby tires, this sort of drive is not for you. Also the drive is more for road and bike path commuters rather then off road users. Packed gravel is fine but loose mud that sticks to the tire is not ideal.

As Todd says, there are plenty of hybrid tires that work really well with friction drives.
Click to expand...

Yeah I only want to use a system like this as a means of travelling to the off road trails near my area, then removing the device prior to riding the trails, because I don't have a vehicle and trying to ride my downhill bike anywhere, even for a short period of time, is really draining. I know there is a product called the Shuttle Buddy which is targeted at riders such as myself which basically uses the same system as your friction drive to propel the bike, but the downside is that it's very expensive. Anyway, I appreciate the feedback guys.

Cheers, Jack.
 
Other consideration is that the drive doesnt work with dual suspension bikes which I presume your down hill bike is. I may look at adapting the drive to dual suspension setups in the future though.
 
What kind of recumbent? There are just so many configurations of seats and distances to rear wheels it can get crazy. I was able to get a friction drive working on a cruzbike sofrider frame pretty well, it is just a wallmart mtb frame afterall, but decided I hated it and I haven't figured out how to put the drive on my challenge hurricane.
 
Thanks evblazer for answering this one. I have zero experience on recumbent style bikes. :) That being said, I am talking to a local recumbent bike importer who may be interested in an adaptation on the drive for a few of the models he imports.
 
Just a quick note to let people know that drive will be on the New Inventors TV show tonight 8.00pm, ABC1. Aussiejester will post it on Youtube after its aired for all our international friends.

Thanks everyone.
 
Its a little difficult to know where to post with 2 threads now running but this post is about some further testing I have done over the past week so this spot seems most appropriate.

I received one of the lower cost Turnigy 85A ESCs to test with a 63-74 motor. This is the ESC. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...ct_Name=Turnigy__Brushless_ESC_85A_w/_5A_SBEC

Its a bit of a pain to program as its done with throttle position rather then a programming card so decided to leave it as it comes as this is the most likely way most would install it.

Bench tested it first. The soft start seemed acceptable however start-up sync at light throttle was quite jittery and as such didn’t inspire an heap of confidence. It doesn’t get a great rap on the feed back section of website either but what the heck, if goes up in smoke its only $45 wasted.

Firstly the ESC is a perfect fit for the drive and was very straight forward to install. I did all testing with 5S and used my trusty folder. (the same bike as on the TV show) To my surprise, the ESC worked perfectly. The throttle response was quite linear using a servo tester/Magura 5K throttle, and showed no sync issues under load at low RPM. All testing was done by peddling to 5mph then applying throttle in a smooth fashion. Everything from low throttle to all the way through to full throttle operated without an issue and actually felt as good as any ESC I had tested to date.

I would like to point out that I was not particularly aggressive with the throttle but accelerated briskly enough to a speed that felt too quick for this type of bike.
Now I have only run 15AH through this ESC so I have no idea if it will stand up to constant duties but as far as sync ability and throttle linearity, the ESC preformed quite acceptably. I will leave this ESC in the prototype drive and see how it stands up over the next few weeks.
 
I take it that there is no problem with the motor shaft bearings wearing? I ask because in that thread for the 'bare bones friction drive', I thought it was said the bearings ended up failing. I suppose your design addresses that?
 
similar to veloman,
..how much run time do you have on the outrunners without the shell bearing, IE the tunigys etc.
I can see why you chose the Hyperion initially, and i believe most of your testing has been on that motor with the dual bearings, but i would like to know how you feel the cheaper turnigy's are holding up with the drive loading on the unsupported motor casing.
aside from the Hyperion 40-35 and 40-45, are there any other motors with bearings at both ends of the casing ?? .. it has to be a better choice for reliability
(or.. just chuck a spare $25 turnigy in the backpack ! :p )
 
Kepler said:
Just a quick note to let people know that drive will be on the New Inventors TV show tonight 8.00pm, ABC1. Aussiejester will post it on Youtube after its aired for all our international friends.

Thanks everyone.
Click to expand...


HA I knew I'd seen this somewhere before!! nice work mate.
 
hi i made a nice setup that work awsome on a straight road, can reach up to 50km/hrs, also on hills no more than 15% can reach up to 33km/hr with pedal help. the problem its on high angle hills, there is no way for it to work, i have to change shifts on the bike an end up peddaling all the way up with almost no help of the motor an really slow.

have a:
Flipsky FSESC Mini V4 rated 50A
TURNIGY AERODRIVE SK3 - 6374-192KV MOTOR OUTRUNNER rated 80A
An a hailong 48v 12.8ah with BMS rated as 30A continuos discharge. made of lg mh1 3200mah, 13s4p

an running on FOC mode
set 80a on motor
an 30a on battery

any idea what could a change to improve the uphill performance?
(its ugly as hell , but it works :p)
[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=381T4H5lJiI[/youtube]
 
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