Anyone added a Cycle Analyst to a Super73?

Trikester

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I've modified my S73 "R-Adventure" to my specific riding needs but one more thing needs to be done. I love the bike but the minimal dash and programmability sucks!

A tech at Grin Tech sent me general information on connecting the standalone models of their Cycle Analyst but it this point in time I don;t have any knowledge of how the controller in the S73 is wired. The little factory dash has some select functions and there is also more data available by bluetooth to an external device. I want the data to be avaiulable directly on a dash which the CA would provide.

I'm hoping someone on this board has already figured out how to add the CA and can show me the schematic of the connections to be made plus any additional advice.

I try to avoid being first if at all possible ;)

Trikester
 
It depends on what functionality you want, but in general there are three connections where the CA is inserted in between the stock connections and the controller.

For monitoring, the only connection to the controller is to insert the shunt between the battery and battery inputs to the controller. Then adding the speed sensor to the wheel in order to monitor speed and distance provides all the data the CA needs (voltage, current, and speed).

If you want to take advantage of most other functions (adjusting LVC, throttle ramping, current control, etc.), then in addition to the battery connection, the CA is inserted into the throttle input to the controller, so that the existing throttle is an input to the CA and the CA output goes to the controller throttle input.

Similarly, if you want to take advantage of the PAS functionality, the CA is inserted in between the PAS and the controller. However, the CA uses a different voltage than most controller use to power the PAS unit, so you may either require a separate 10V supply, or swap out the PAS sensor with one from Grin that's already set up for 10V.

You mentioned wanting to have the data available, which would only require the shunt and the speed sensor. I find the other functions to be invaluable, and take advantage of most of them, however don't expect the CA to increase performance over your existing system, since the CA is basically a throttle input, and can only replicate what you can do with your wrist, but in a much more controlled manner.
 
It depends on what functionality you want, but in general there are three connections where the CA is inserted in between the stock connections and the controller.

For monitoring, the only connection to the controller is to insert the shunt between the battery and battery inputs to the controller. Then adding the speed sensor to the wheel in order to monitor speed and distance provides all the data the CA needs (voltage, current, and speed).

If you want to take advantage of most other functions (adjusting LVC, throttle ramping, current control, etc.), then in addition to the battery connection, the CA is inserted into the throttle input to the controller, so that the existing throttle is an input to the CA and the CA output goes to the controller throttle input.

Similarly, if you want to take advantage of the PAS functionality, the CA is inserted in between the PAS and the controller. However, the CA uses a different voltage than most controller use to power the PAS unit, so you may either require a separate 10V supply, or swap out the PAS sensor with one from Grin that's already set up for 10V.

You mentioned wanting to have the data available, which would only require the shunt and the speed sensor. I find the other functions to be invaluable, and take advantage of most of them, however don't expect the CA to increase performance over your existing system, since the CA is basically a throttle input, and can only replicate what you can do with your wrist, but in a much more controlled manner.
Thanks E-HP. I've used several CA 2.3's in bicycles that i converted to e-bikes and one CA 3 on an e-bike I built from scratch. On all of those I used controllers that I purchased, with inputs and outputs identified, and fit with the CA units well. I guess in this instance I have been more intimidated by the fact that I didn't pick the controller. You have laid out the options very well so it helps me to proceed with tracing the connections and dispense with my "black box" timidity.

Trikester
 
Just to be sure you've thought about this:

Keep in mind the CA is not a display. It's a computer that monitors battery voltage and current to/from the system, and can monitor a speed sensor, temperature sensor, throttle, PAS, torque sensor, aux input, and ebrake signals, and process all of that info via the settings you choose to create a throttle signal to drive the controller.

If the controller has data it sends to an existing display, the CA will not be able to access or display any of that for you, and if the display does any setup or programming of the controller, the CA will not be able to do any of this for you, because it doesn't communicate with the controller.

If you want those functions, the CA cannot provide them for you; you'll either need the original equipment, or you'll have to reverse engineer the data stream to/from the controller and create hardware and software that will do that job.
 
Just to be sure you've thought about this:

Keep in mind the CA is not a display. It's a computer that monitors battery voltage and current to/from the system, and can monitor a speed sensor, temperature sensor, throttle, PAS, torque sensor, aux input, and ebrake signals, and process all of that info via the settings you choose to create a throttle signal to drive the controller.

If the controller has data it sends to an existing display, the CA will not be able to access or display any of that for you, and if the display does any setup or programming of the controller, the CA will not be able to do any of this for you, because it doesn't communicate with the controller.

If you want those functions, the CA cannot provide them for you; you'll either need the original equipment, or you'll have to reverse engineer the data stream to/from the controller and create hardware and software that will do that job.
Yes, thank you for the reminder. Exactly what you have said was the reason for my asking this question.. In the past I have used 5 Cycle Analysts on my e-bike projects but in all of those cases I also chose the controllers to use. These controllers were already configured to connect to a Cycle Analyst and I use the CA's tocontrol the controllers and to display information about thre ride data like state of charge, Ah/mi, speed, distance, etc.

Now I have a different situation where I did not choose the controller and my goal is to get the data display but also keep the few ride choices that the Super73 hs available on it's minimal dash. Such as class choice (1,2,3, & private land).. 4 levels of PAS are also selectable on the OEM dash. There is a small cable coming out of the BB but I don't know if it is a torque sensor or just a rotatin detector. If it is actually a torque sensor then I would want to move that selection to the Cycle Analyst.

So that's why this e-bike project becomes more difficult that my past projects. I'm wanting to preserve some of the selections available on the OEM handlebar dash and use some of the CA's capability. Of course, as you say, I can always just use the CA to display my battery info, Ah usage, speed, and mileage data. Since that is mostly want I want and would leave the OEM stuff intact.

It would be great if someone out there can identify whether the BB is a torque sensing one or just a rotation sensor. There is a small cable coming out of the BB housing.

Trikester
 
Yes, thank you for the reminder. Exactly what you have said was the reason for my asking this question.. In the past I have used 5 Cycle Analysts on my e-bike projects but in all of those cases I also chose the controllers to use. These controllers were already configured to connect to a Cycle Analyst and I use the CA's tocontrol the controllers and to display information about thre ride data like state of charge, Ah/mi, speed, distance, etc.

Now I have a different situation where I did not choose the controller and my goal is to get the data display but also keep the few ride choices that the Super73 hs available on it's minimal dash. Such as class choice (1,2,3, & private land).. 4 levels of PAS are also selectable on the OEM dash. There is a small cable coming out of the BB but I don't know if it is a torque sensor or just a rotatin detector. If it is actually a torque sensor then I would want to move that selection to the Cycle Analyst.

So that's why this e-bike project becomes more difficult that my past projects. I'm wanting to preserve some of the selections available on the OEM handlebar dash and use some of the CA's capability. Of course, as you say, I can always just use the CA to display my battery info, Ah usage, speed, and mileage data. Since that is mostly want I want and would leave the OEM stuff intact.

It would be great if someone out there can identify whether the BB is a torque sensing one or just a rotation sensor. There is a small cable coming out of the BB housing.

Trikester
When you pedal, does the controller give you more power when you stand on the pedals and pedal hard, vs pedaling softly, but with the same cadence? If pedal pressure increases assistance, then it's likely a torque sensing PAS. If the assistance stays the same, as pedaling softly or ghost pedaling, then it's a cadence PAS.

Using the CA in conjunction with the system's built in functions shouldn't be an issue. For example, I've used cruise control and a 3 speed switch, both working directly though the controller, and the CA functions as it should. But, if you connect the PAS through the CA, and your controller has PAS levels, the levels won't have an effect, since the CA is implemented PAS through the throttle signal. But, if you have a controller that allows PAS levels to adjust power when using the throttle (KT controllers have an option to controller both PAS and throttle levels using the PAS level), then with the right setting, you could use the controller's PAS levels to change PAS and throttle assistance even with the CA supplying the throttle signal.

PS. I saw this on another site:
The SUPER73 Z-Miami, ZG, and ZX are equipped with a cadence sensor. The SUPER73 S2 and RX have torque sensors.
 
When you pedal, does the controller give you more power when you stand on the pedals and pedal hard, vs pedaling softly, but with the same cadence? If pedal pressure increases assistance, then it's likely a torque sensing PAS. If the assistance stays the same, as pedaling softly or ghost pedaling, then it's a cadence PAS.

Using the CA in conjunction with the system's built in functions shouldn't be an issue. For example, I've used cruise control and a 3 speed switch, both working directly though the controller, and the CA functions as it should. But, if you connect the PAS through the CA, and your controller has PAS levels, the levels won't have an effect, since the CA is implemented PAS through the throttle signal. But, if you have a controller that allows PAS levels to adjust power when using the throttle (KT controllers have an option to controller both PAS and throttle levels using the PAS level), then with the right setting, you could use the controller's PAS levels to change PAS and throttle assistance even with the CA supplying the throttle signal.

PS. I saw this on another site:
The SUPER73 Z-Miami, ZG, and ZX are equipped with a cadence sensor. The SUPER73 S2 and RX have torque sensors.
 
Interesting. I have the R-Adventure, a top end model, which I assume would be in the RX category, which according to what you saw on another site would have the torque sensor. However, when I come ot a steeper slope and apply more pressure to the pedals I don't feel any added assistance. The pedaling gets much harder. That would indicate the cadence sensor.

Thanks,
Trikester
 
Interesting. I have the R-Adventure, a top end model, which I assume would be in the RX category, which according to what you saw on another site would have the torque sensor. However, when I come ot a steeper slope and apply more pressure to the pedals I don't feel any added assistance. The pedaling gets much harder. That would indicate the cadence sensor.

Thanks,
Trikester
Do you have a wattmeter on the display? Feeling more assistance isn't a good measure, especially if the bike is underpowered. If the watts go up when you press harder on the pedals, then it's a torque PAS.
Here's the post I saw. Can't say whether it's accurate:
 
These controllers were already configured to connect to a Cycle Analyst and I use the CA's tocontrol the controllers and to display information about thre ride data like state of charge, Ah/mi, speed, distance, etc.

All of that information is generated inside the CA, not the controller.


Now I have a different situation where I did not choose the controller and my goal is to get the data display but also keep the few ride choices that the Super73 hs available on it's minimal dash. Such as class choice (1,2,3, & private land).. 4 levels of PAS are also selectable on the OEM dash.
You will need the display that is part of the controller/display system, and it's controls, to use the functions that ocntroller has built in, and to display any data from that controller.

The CA cannot do this because it cannot communicate with *any* controller to send or receive any data.

(it does have a serial port that it can receive data on to change it's settings via the computer-based setup program, and it can send realtime data out that it is generatingg that you see on the display for battery info, etc, but it's not used to talk to controllers)

It is highly likely that nothing else besides the original display/etc can do the job either, unless you reverse engineer the communications and datastream and make one yourself, unless there happens to be the same protocol and firmware / etc display out there somewhere, but hten it will still really be the same thing you already have, evven if it looks a bit different. THere are numerous protocols and choices of datasets, settinggs, etc, for diffferent controller/display combinations, and theya re genrally not intercompatible).

This is all a PITA, but it's the state of things at present.



There is a small cable coming out of the BB but I don't know if it is a torque sensor or just a rotatin detector. If it is actually a torque sensor then I would want to move that selection to the Cycle Analyst.
<snip>.
It would be great if someone out there can identify whether the BB is a torque sensing one or just a rotation sensor. There is a small cable coming out of the BB housing.

What does that cable have for wiring? If it's just three wires it's probably a cadence-only sensor. If it has four+ wires, it could be a torque+cadence sensor.


Does the cotnroller operate normally via throttle only if you unplug this cable from it? If it does not, and has no setting to correct that, then you can't move the cable to the CA because the cotnroller won't operate without the signal from it. There are some controllers like this.

In that event you'd need to replace the controller (and any display it uses) with one that accepts just a throttle siganl for all of it's operation.


If there are any functions of the controller / system that you use the pedals to control, you would need to keep that connection for that reason. Otherwise those functions would be lost.


BTW, even if it is just a cadence sensor, you can get much better control over operation via pedals using hte CA to read the sensor and create a throttle signal to operate the controller just as if you were operating the thorttle via the pedals, assuming the controller will oeprate without the pedal signals.

This is because most controllers only use the cadence sensor as on/off, either you're pedalling or you aren't, and it doesn't care how fast or slow you're pedalling. It just triggers the full power or speed of the controller as setup for the presnetly-chosen assist levvel.

But the CA counts pulses and how quickly they happen and increases or decreases the throttle signal based on that and your chosen settings, so it actually directly controls the motor speed (or torque/etc depending on the mode you choose in the CA, and how t he controller works). I use this mode to control my SB Cruiser trike via pedals (it has a thorttle, but it's more a go-button to start me off in situations i can't get going via pedals, or the times when my legs cannot operate the pedals correctly).
 
Do you have a wattmeter on the display? Feeling more assistance isn't a good measure, especially if the bike is underpowered. If the watts go up when you press harder on the pedals, then it's a torque PAS.
Here's the post I saw. Can't say whether it's accurate:
Well, after reading the link you sent it appears that I have the cadence sensor. The description of the ends of the BB that they use tells me that. Also, I've had other ebikes that had cadence sensors and they all have a short delay before power shuts done if I stop pedaling. This bike has the same characteristic. The cadence sensor is just being used as a switch. Bummer! I would have loved to have a torque sensor on this bike.

Trikester
 
What kind of BB does it have? (there are a number of BB torque sensor types, most of which are supported by the CA)
Since it is an OEM part on the bike I don't know who the manufacturer is. The link provided by another poster to questions and answers by Super73 said that the model RX has a torque sensor. Mine is a model RX but I have now identified mine as a cadence sensor according to their description of the BB appearance. Now I'm bummed that if I was supposed to get the torque sensor but got the cadence sensor instead. Just a guess, but they may have run out of parts and substituted the cadence sensor in that model.

Speaking of being out of parts, Grin is out of stand alone CA's. "Not in stock".

Trikester
 
Well, all the CAs are bascially the same, just with different external wiringg and sometimes different settings in the firmware (or different fw versions for certain ones, but you can reflash them).

What I meant by what kind of BB is what kidn of BB shell does the frame itself have--knowing that you can find a matching replacement BB torque sensor. (as long as the cadence sensor isn't required for the controller to operate)

to be sure of whether it is a torque sensor or not, though, if you simply unplug it adn look at the connector, it'll only have three (used) pins for a cadence sensor. a torque senosr will ahve four or more because it has a cadecne sensor plus a torque sensor.
 
Well, all the CAs are bascially the same, just with different external wiringg and sometimes different settings in the firmware (or different fw versions for certain ones, but you can reflash them).

What I meant by what kind of BB is what kidn of BB shell does the frame itself have--knowing that you can find a matching replacement BB torque sensor. (as long as the cadence sensor isn't required for the controller to operate)

to be sure of whether it is a torque sensor or not, though, if you simply unplug it adn look at the connector, it'll only have three (used) pins for a cadence sensor. a torque senosr will ahve four or more because it has a cadecne sensor plus a torque sensor.
As far as i can determine it is a "standard" BB enclosure so I could buy a torque sensor model but I would been to determine if the controller is configured for both, as you said.I wish I had a techinican contact at S73 that could give me all this informat5ion. I'm going to try to do that.

I guess I'm spoiled by having the ability to get directly to engineering at Zero Motorcycles.

Trikester
 
but I would been to determine if the controller is configured for both, as you said.

unplug the cable from the sensor to the system, and if it all still works via throttle as before, then you don't need the siganl to the controller from it, and so you coudl replace it with whatever you want to control the CA input with. :)
 
As far as i can determine it is a "standard" BB enclosure so I could buy a torque sensor model but I would been to determine if the controller is configured for both, as you said.I wish I had a techinican contact at S73 that could give me all this informat5ion. I'm going to try to do that.

I guess I'm spoiled by having the ability to get directly to engineering at Zero Motorcycles.

Trikester
I'm now positive that it is a cadence sensor. But I opened the connector and it is a six pin connector. Since a cadence sensor only needs three pins it makes me think that the controller is set up to accept which ever one is plugged into it. If that's the case then I if I swapped out the cadence BB for a torque BB it would play.

The BB shell is 120mm so there might not be many choices in torque sensor BB's. The best thing for me would be if Suoer73 would sell me the OEM torque BB that they use. I have a question waiting in their support FAQ page as to why i didn't get the torque sensor with the RX model bike. No reply yet. My next question for them will be: can i buy one?

For the type of desert dirt riding I do the cadence sensor is almost useless because of rapidly changing terrain.
Trikester
 
Hi there, I've been working on reverse engineering my Super73 RX Mojave to troubleshoot a bricked bike and to document the heck out of it.

In the US, the RX only has cadence sensors, while in Europe they have torque sensors. I believe, although I'm struggling to find documentation to back this up, that all US Super73 bikes only have a cadence sensor, no torque sensor.

My RX has a 24 pole cadence sensor with a 6 pole Higo Mini B connector. It has what looks like a part number, "BBSS24-L50L-01" on the back followed by what looks like a serial number.

show me the schematic of the connections to be made plus any additional advice.
The Super73 RX Controller
  • Front
    • Amass MT30 female - to motor, combined into Higo L1019
    • L615AM male - to battery
      • 1 - black - negative
      • orange - unterminated
      • 3 - green - CANH
      • 4 - blue - CANL
      • brown - untermianted
      • 6 - red - positive
    • Higo Mini F male 8 poles - to motor, combined into Higo L1019
  • Rear
    • Higo Main Female Plug Connector 12 poles - to primary wiring harness
    • Higo Mini B Female cable 6 poles - to cadence sensor
    • "HOLIET" (yes, really, that seems odd, may be Julet? it's not Higo) Female 5 poles - to 12 Volt Accessory Step Down
    • Higo Mini B Male cable 6 poles (capped) - diagnostic, has CAN bus on poles 4 (CAN High) and 5 (CAN Low)
The motor has a Higo L1019 Male. The V6 Phaserunner_L10 has a L1019 Female. Either use the existing wiring and make an adapter for the MT30 and the Higo Mini or fish out the existing wiring and just get a L1019 Male to Female extension cable and use that instead.

You will need to either wire your existing throttle (Higo Mini F 3 poles) to match Cycle Analyst's use of JST-SM or get a different throttle that uses JST-SM, which is slightly easier.

Fair warning; if you do this, you won't have your 12 volt accessories until you wire up another system to handle it. That means horn, headlight, tail light, turn signals (even though they don't use them) won't work.

Hope this helps!
 
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That's great info, thanks!

NOTE: i NOW HAVE CONFIRMATION FROM SUPER73 THAT NONE OF THE MODELS SOLD IN THE US HAVE TORQUE SENSORS, THEY ARE ALL CANENCE SENSORS. ONLY SOME MODELS SOLD IN EUROPE USE TORQUE SENSORS.

In MHO this sucks! A cadence sensor is useless in serious dirt riding. In Utah, most of the trails are limited to class 1 e-bikes. So, if you want to ride legal (some of us do) you would set your Super73 to class 1 with your device. Trails with rapid pitch changes would be a nightmare with a cadence sensor. I'll confess right now, when I'm riding in Utah I'll be riding class 2 and assuming that nobody would know the difference if I was pedaling along with throttle usage in the tough places. Also, as dirt bike riders often say: " the throttle is your friend".

Trikester
 
Hi there, I've been working on reverse engineering my Super73 RX Mojave to troubleshoot a bricked bike and to document the heck out of it.

In the US, the RX only has cadence sensors, while in Europe they have torque sensors. I believe, although I'm struggling to find documentation to back this up, that all US Super73 bikes only have a cadence sensor, no torque sensor.

My RX has a 24 pole cadence sensor with a 6 pole Higo Mini B connector. It has what looks like a part number, "BBSS24-L50L-01" on the back followed by what looks like a serial number.


The Super73 RX Controller
  • Front
    • Amass MT30 female - to motor, combined into Higo L1019
    • L615AM male - to battery
      • 1 - black - negative
      • orange - unterminated
      • 3 - green - CANH
      • 4 - blue - CANL
      • brown - untermianted
      • 6 - red - positive
    • Higo Mini F male 8 poles - to motor, combined into Higo L1019
  • Rear
    • Higo Main Female Plug Connector 12 poles - to primary wiring harness
    • Higo Mini B Female cable 6 poles - to cadence sensor
    • "HOLIET" (yes, really, that seems odd, may be Julet? it's not Higo) Female 5 poles - to 12 Volt Accessory Step Down
    • Higo Mini B Male cable 6 poles (capped) - diagnostic, has CAN bus on poles 4 (CAN High) and 5 (CAN Low)
The motor has a Higo L1019 Male. The V6 Phaserunner_L10 has a L1019 Female. Either use the existing wiring and make an adapter for the MT30 and the Higo Mini or fish out the existing wiring and just get a L1019 Male to Female extension cable and use that instead.

You will need to either wire your existing throttle (Higo Mini F 3 poles) to match Cycle Analyst's use of JST-SM or get a different throttle that uses JST-SM, which is slightly easier.

Fair warning; if you do this, you won't have your 12 volt accessories until you wire up another system to handle it. That means horn, headlight, tail light, turn signals (even though they don't use them) won't work.

Hope this helps!
 
Null: Have you traced the connections to the BB sensor yet? If so please post.

I have found a torque sensing BB in China that should fit the Super73 and it's on its way to me now. I have the connections to its six pin connector (same type) and would like to see if they happen to line up with the S73's connections.

Trikester
 
In MHO this sucks! A cadence sensor is useless in serious dirt riding. In Utah, most of the trails are limited to class 1 e-bikes. So, if you want to ride legal (some of us do) you would set your Super73 to class 1 with your device. Trails with rapid pitch changes would be a nightmare with a cadence sensor. I'll confess right now, when I'm riding in Utah I'll be riding class 2 and assuming that nobody would know the difference if I was pedaling along with throttle usage in the tough places. Also, as dirt bike riders often say: " the throttle is your friend".

Trikester
PAS is dangerous on trails. I switch to throttle only for any serious trail riding; so yes, throttle is your friend, PAS is your enemy.
 
PAS is dangerous on trails. I switch to throttle only for any serious trail riding; so yes, throttle is your friend, PAS is your enemy.
I agree!

E-bike riders in Utah need to push for at class 2 on trails on BLM land. Right now only class 1 is allowed on all trails on BLM administered land. That means no throttle!

I don't live in Utah so I can't have a stakeholder say but I do ride there some each year.

Trikester
 
HOW I INSTALLED THE CA3 ON MY SUPER73
I like my new Super73 e-bike and enjoy riding it but as usual for me I also want to customize it to better fit my riding needs. Most of my rides are soft sandy desert trails. For that reason, I changed the front tire to the Badger 5”, added a steering stabilizer, and changed to a “half twist throttle for better speed control. For better comfort pedaling (I’m tall) I raised the solo seat by 3” (plywood used to support it on standoffs).

I'm sure that the electrical changes I've made have VOIDED THE FACTORY WARRANTY at least for electrical, if they are a customer oriented company they may still honor a mechanical warranty that has no relationship to the electrical system, but that's anybody's guess.

It's a great bike without the above changes but one thing that really sucks is the minimal dashboard. About the only useful ride data I got was speed. It also can show “range” which is a useless number unless your whole ride will be flat with zero wind. I was told by S73 customer service that a lighted ring around the circular dash shows percent of remaining charge but I haven’t confirmed that nor have I read it anywhere in the owner’s manual. So, it was essential that I add a Grin Technologies Cycle Analyst 3.1 to this bike. I have used that device (& older models) on 6 other e-bikes and find it very useful.

The instruction manual for installing the stand-alone version of the CA3 is quite clear on what needs to be connected electrically, so my only problem was the mechanics of adding it to a bike I didn’t build myself. Made more complex by the S73 where most of the wiring very neatly hides within the frame.

I’m only going to describe here the first phase of my project, which is to connect the CA as a passive data monitor dashboard only. Later, I’ll make the additional connections so that it can utilize all of its capabilities as a programable control to the S73 controller. I will also add a torque sensing bottom bracket which is coming from China. It will work through the CA’s torque sensor input.

Mounting my CA dashboard: I mounted the CA3 on the top tree of the suspension fork utilizing the 6mm threaded hole on the right of the steer tube. I made a narrow strip of SS sheet which engages the threaded hole in the back of the CA and also the 6mm bolt that passes through the spacer to the top tree (see photo). I bent the end of the strip up to keep the CA from being able to rotate around its mounting bolt.

The stand-alone CA3 comes with a shunt package that needs to be connected in series with the +&- of the battery power to the S73’s controller. I anticipated that this would be a trough modification to make but S73 made it easy for me. I unplugged the power cable where it connects to the controller, removed the rubber frame plug, and pulled it out of the frame from the battery end. What I saw was fantastic! There was a short extension cable plugged into the end of the long battery cable. I was able to use that for the shunt installation and it was convenient to be able to have it on my bench to work on away from the bike (see photo). I made sure to pay attention to the “battery” and “controller” labels on the shunt when making the connections. I used the barrel portions of 8ga lugs, squeezed enough to make them oval, crimped on each pair of wires and then soldered. I insulated the soldered connections with shrink tube individually and then together.

Stripping the insulating jacket from the extension cable is not easy. I carefully slit the length using a single edge razor blade until I could get it to part using my fingernails. I had to be very careful because there are three very tiny wires in the cable along with the 12ga power wires. The blue and green wires are CAN buss wires to the battery and very fragile. The orange wire is not connected.

I had to run the battery cable under the top frame members now because the forward connector on the extension cable could not be reached to make the connection if the cable was inside the tube (see photo) I did run the data cable from the CA to the shunt inside the tube where the battery cable had been.

The only thing left to do now is the front wheel magnetic speed pickup for the CA. Grin Tech didn’t say anywhere in the manual for the stand-alone CA that the sensitive part of the Hall effect sensors are the ends, not the center as in the reed switch variety pickups. If I mounted the pickup vertically or horizontally, the magnet on the spoke needs to pass by the end. I chose to mount it horizontally with its end pointed at the magnet. I used the upper caliper 6mm threaded mount, which is unused on the right fork, to mount the sensor (see photo). I made a slotted holder for it so I could adjust the distance to the magnet. I also can unbolt the sensor when I need to remove the now 5-inch-wide front wheel.

That’s it for now. I’ll be adding the throttle and torque BB sensor connections later. I’ll probably add the Grin Tech potentiometer aux input on the handlebar as a continuously adjustable current limiter. I have this on my other bikes and find it useful.

Trikester

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Null: Have you traced the connections to the BB sensor yet? If so please post.

I have found a torque sensing BB in China that should fit the Super73 and it's on its way to me now. I have the connections to its six pin connector (same type) and would like to see if they happen to line up with the S73's connections.

Trikester
Hey, sorry for the delay in response. Brilliant progress and thanks for documenting your process! Has there been any limitation on the information you've gotten out of CA, or has it been 100% compatible?

I'll work on documenting that sensor, I had been on pause for a bit due to work and travel. I've been collaborating with an Electrical Engineer, that will help (and he has an Oscilloscope). I wish there was a clear model number on it, that will save time.

Part of the gotcha is that it's Higo which will fit with Julet but is wired differently.
 
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