Anyone using a different controller with their cyclone kit?

[Kevinator]

I recently mounted my 900w cyclone in place of the 360w I have been using on my 20" clown bike. With the 360w it takes about 1/5th of a mile to reach 20mph (full throttle, no pedaling, shifting through all my gears). I'd call the acceleration "brisk" when you're riding on flat, open roads.

In comparison, the 900w motor is instant torque at your fingertips. Riding through the neighborhood is pretty fun because theres no problem keeping up with traffic. I went easy on the throttle and rode about 3 miles before I blew out the 30A fuse on my battery (forgot to replace it with a 40A).

While the power is really nice, I might switch back to the 360w motor on this bike. The main reason being that there is no stealthy way to mount the humungous controller on a small folding bike.

Is anyone currently using a smaller external controller with their 650w+ cyclone? I'd love to see some pics! I understand its just a matter of matching the right wires to use a different controller, but I'd like to know what controllers have already been successfully used and if there are any drawbacks to NOT using the headline controller.

 

[wineboyrider]

I found your post and was wondering the same thing. 8)

 

[heathyoung]

The headline controller has a temperature input, most others dont.

They are a big controller I agree. The internal ones are cute, but the heat issues are a real problem. I thought about modifying a 24V 500W controller with mongo heatsinks and better caps (and a slightly more intelligent shunt) to make a small but powerful controller. It wouldn't take too much imagination to make a larger diameter PCB around the main PCB to mount more mosfets (or use it as the core and make a square board) - its all SMD barring the mosfets and shunt.

Apparently they work OK on the old analogue xtalyte controllers, they are geared so they are a high rpm motor compared to a DD hub.

 

[wineboyrider]

Since, I revived this post. The controller works great except it's large.? 8)

 

[heathyoung]

A few people have commented on the fact that its not that hard to fry it with the lower voltage motors - eg. the 36V as the mosfets used are on the edge of their ratings - there are some pretty nice MOSFETS that will replace the stock ones, especially at this low a voltage - the IRFB1405 is a 169A(!) 55V 5mOhm fet that would be far better in this controller than what is used. I replaced the standard ones in my 24V controller with these.

 

[Fenman]

Hi
I am better with a spanner than with a soldering iron,
and I think my controller has died,So is there a controller that will run the 1200/1500 cyclone.
without a lot of chopping to the wires?
Thanks

 

[Fenman]

Hi
I am better with a spanner than with a soldering iron,
and I think my controller has died,So is there a controller that will run the 1200/1500 cyclone.
without a lot of chopping to the wires?
Thanks

Anyone??

 

[AussieJester]

I would say any e-bike speed controller capable of running brushless motor will work mate. 12fet infineon perhaps even a 6fet
from Lyen would be the shot. You only need to connect battery wires, 3 phase wires, 3 hall wires and 3 throttle wires, throttles simple and theres only so many combos for halls and phase wires...alternatively pull the cyclone one apart post pics and you will more than likely get some advice on how to fix it.


KiM

 

[heathyoung]

A few people have had problems with the unneccesarily complicated throttle that comes with the kit. Try another (non-microcontroller controlled) throttle and see if this fixes the issues. The biggest problem you are likely to encounter is that these are higher RPM motors than most direct drive controllers are capable of running, so you need a geared motor controller.