Aprilia Enjoy

Hi Tony, I got my 8S LVC/HVC board from here but ....

1. I don't think Gary makes them anymore (PM him to find out, he does make a 12S though)
2. I think I stuffed** mine by potting in resin, so I cut off all the electronics and just use the parallel part of it and use a CellLog8 as my LVC

** My battery pack was going way out of balance over a few days just sitting on the shelf

Cheers,
GT
 
Hi all,

I replaced the 30 amp fuses in the battery pack and it works like a new one again.All up it cost a doller. I will keep going with the NMH packs for a while. By the way I checked out the pros and cons of the lipo batteries and they sound like a bit of a worry . I read about people charging them in fire proof containers and not leaving them unattended whilst they are charging.Then the ballancing of the cells and making sure you don't drop them. Obviously if they are cared for in the right way they are quite safe to use but it is a different ball game to the NMH which is very easy to use.I understand the advantages of the lipo's of course. Have you guys who are using the lipo''s had any issues with them in this way ?

Cheers,
Tony.
 
Goldcross Cycles are now selling Flight e-bikes and spares. http://www.goldcross.com.au/online-store/electric-bikes/electric-bikes.aspx?id=9207
If anyone in Aus is looking to replace the NiMh batteries but thinks LiPo is too hard then you might look into buying the Flight NiMh battery from there at $349 and pulling the cells out to fit in your Aprillia battery case.
 
tonyontopofabighill said:
Hi all,

I replaced the 30 amp fuses in the battery pack and it works like a new one again.All up it cost a doller. I will keep going with the NMH packs for a while. By the way I checked out the pros and cons of the lipo batteries and they sound like a bit of a worry . I read about people charging them in fire proof containers and not leaving them unattended whilst they are charging.Then the ballancing of the cells and making sure you don't drop them. Obviously if they are cared for in the right way they are quite safe to use but it is a different ball game to the NMH which is very easy to use.I understand the advantages of the lipo's of course. Have you guys who are using the lipo''s had any issues with them in this way ?

Cheers,
Tony.
Hi Tony, I have had no issues with LiPo (GT crosses fingers and touches wood) in handling or charging so far except the issue I had with the LVC / HVC circuit (where I think I stuffed it when I encased it in resin). Naturally, I take care not to drop any batteries, not just LiPo :shock:

Cheers,
GT
 
HI GT,

I am looking forward to changing over to the lipo's but I will wait a while and see how this rejuvenated battery holds out(fingers also crossed and touching wood). The bike is going really well at present.I got stopped on the cycleway the other day by an avid cyclist who was amazed at how quiet the Aprilia was. I love how people admire these great little bikes.
Thanks for your reply GT.

Cheers,
Tony.
 
G'day GT,

How is the new setup and lipos going? My NIMH battery pack is getting a little tired I think. I wonder if the lipo's could one day be put together so as to make them fit into the existing battery box? I saw on the Hobby King site that there were only 2 configurations of the battery packs, the one you used and the shorter fatter one that someone else used, but I still wonder if they could be put together to fit into that original battery box.



Cheers,
Tony
 
Hi Tony, LiPos going good (when I ride it - not in inclement weather :shock: and not when I have to move around on-site at work). I had a external bo-peep at the original battery housing and making some allowances for internal ribbing etc, once it is gutted a space of 50x50x400 should be available for LiPo (or another chemistry). But, someone who has maintained the original case with LiPo would be better placed to give you advice.

For guidance on battery capacity, I have used between 2.5 and 5.7Ah for a 15km round trip. That 5.7Ah was when I had a 65kmh head wind (for about 1km) up a 10% hill (for about 200m only), but I do pedal all the time (it's a bicycle after all :p )

Hope that helps!

Cheers,
GT
 
tonyontopofabighill said:
My NIMH battery pack is getting a little tired I think. I wonder if the lipo's could one day be put together so as to make them fit into the existing battery box?

I am sure you could get lipo in the original battery casing, it just a matter of how much ?
the size & shape of the casing and the ;ipo packs are not easily compatible.
you could probably fit 16Ahr of 6s (24v) lipo inside the case,
2 of these http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=16228
....but more than that ( voltage or capacity ) is difficult.
To make the most of the available space , its better to start afresh and forget the old casing.
I managed to fit 6 x 5s packs ( 10s, 2p) to give 40v , 15Ahr by using 3 project boxes from JCar, glued together to make a new battery casing that replaces the original, this is still removable from the bike and the original top cover still fits in place and the lock secures it all as original.
Externally the bike looks original, but is now 40v 1200w. :wink:

EDIT:- Power use... Using a Wattmeter & trip computer, i am seeing about 4km per Ahr ( or 10Whrs per km )... but same as GtA i tend to use the power for hills and acceleration and only use "light assist" on the flats to keep up a comfortable 30kph cruise
 
Hi Guys,
my Enjoy City recently 'died' (motor just whirring in the case and not supplying power during pedalling). Was about to sell it off and buy a 400W pancake kit from china. Have read thru this thread and have now abandoned that idea. I am now planning to do as others have also and keep it - fit a 8S lipo with a YK40-3 controller and thumb throttle. And a turnigy wattmeter to see what i am pulling out. I am only 3 kms from work - 5.8 Ah should be fine.

With regards to the 'whirring sound', after reading the thread I pulled the fairing covers off and got out the red/blue direct supply wires to the motor. Applied 12v from a handy SLA nearby and the cranks turned. Was worried it was something inside the gearbox but obviously not - thank goodness. I have avoided opening up the drive unit thanks to your advice. Not really interested in trouble shooting the root cause - never really liked the pedal assist anyway. My thumb can make the decisions.

Am thinking about doing away with all the plastic etc on the bike, reckon they'd look kinda cool naked just with panniers. Not me, the bike.

My bike came with a second for spares, not much left on it except the motor - good news if I cook my first one.

Cheers from Ballarat, AU.
Sam.
 
Hi Sam,
odd situation you have there with the "whirring" sound ??
but as you say, if it drives ok by bypassing the controller then all is good mechanically. ( unless its the drive clutch slipping under load ?)
Is the main battery (24v) still holding charge ? ..if so try bypassing the controller with the 24v feed to ensure the drive is solid before you invest $$$'s in lipo and controller ... but then again you do have spares . ! :D
That YK40 controller will work fine on 10S also if you want the buzz :wink:
Re removing the plastics...its your call but they do a good job of holding and hiding all the batts, controller and wiring etc.
..it will be quite a PITA rearranging all that securely.
Mine with 10s , 15Ahr lipo and YK40, still looks completely standard (250 W motor sticker ) but runs 1200w happily ..and the ign key still locks the battery compartment.
Keep us updated on your efforts.
 
Fair call on the body shell. I will keep it.
I am tempted to do a bit of drilling out of the frame underneath - see what i can reduce the weight by. Maybe.

10S? Gosh - that would be frakkin awesome! I'm up for it. What sort of flat speed are you hitting with 1220W Hillhater?

10S chargers seem a bit of a step up in price on hobbyking. What did you go with?
 
you will find the weight is all in the motor /drive, battery & wheels. If you remove them , whats left is pretty dam light ..less than 10kg ( all Mg alloy)
10 S gives 50+kmhr on the flat & plenty of torque for hills etc. I charge by using a 10A 5S charger ( Eco 6-10 for $35 ) , on a split pack ( Pack is 5s x 3P ..2 of them doubled up in series), But you could easily bulk charge using a adjusted meanwell 48v psu,..charging to 41-42v.
6 of the Turnigy 5S packs fit easily into the battery compartment.
 
G'day Hillhater,

Maybe now with all that power you should change your name to Hillliker? Is there any chance of a pic of the inside of your battery compartment now that it is complete. What are you doing about a LVC?

Cheers,
Tony.
 
Last weekend I direct connected 12V DC to the motor and there was no whirring noise as I had earlier encountered. A few sparks but no noise :p
Back wheel turned as it should. So it's not a clutch problem - I thought.
So I order my bits and waited. Now I have got my YK40-3 and 8S lipo in place ghetto mode only(chickened out on 10S - my brain started to hurt).

Amusingly I turned the throttle on my ghetto temp setup just now and got the bloody whirring noise again. WTF?
Another direct connection of 12V and the rear wheel turned as it should. Didnt make sense at first.

After a five minute think it turned out that the output from the speed controller was reversed in polarity. Swapped the motor feed wires and everything works perfectly.

Wanted to share this in case anyone else has the same experience.

Now to tidy everything up inside the case and fit my GTPower meter, and take her out.
I'm only 2.6km from work, maybe i can do it on a single 5.8 AH 8s LiPo. Otherwise we will extend the range.
I have two battery cases. this could be good.

I also have the original nicads, need to find a home for them I suppose.2011-07-15 22.59.28.png
 
So the whirring noise you heard was the freewheel as the motor rotated backwards due to reverse polarity.

How does it go now with the new controller and LiPo?
 
One for sale in VIC on fleabay.au now, needs repair - may be a good project?
 
It's some kind of freewheel or one way clutch inside the engine case. The chain outside wasnt moving - or the rear freewheel. Hope that makes sense.
 
jateureka said:
One for sale in VIC on fleabay.au now, needs repair - may be a good project?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Electric-Bike-Aprilia-Enjoy-Racing-/250852779317?pt=AU_Sport_Cycling_Bikes&hash=item3a67fda535

dead batteries and other electrical fault.
so, assume a new controller ($30) and some lipo ($400).. plus a little skill, effort and patience ,..this could be a useful bike providing the bidding doesnt go silly. Under $3-350 would be ok, anything more and you could buy a complete new Ebike for similar money.
Anyone interested on here should say so, so you dont bid against each other.
 
I have had some discussions with the seller re the bike on ebay. At first he didn't want to send it via courier/transport but said that if it got up over the $200 mark he would consider boxing it and maybe dropping it off at a transport depot in Bendigo.I said I didn't need the SLA's.I haven't as yet bid on it .I will wait until the towards the end of the auction to see what price it goes up to.I thought it would be good to get it and make a project bike of it.

Cheers,
Tony.
 
I was a bit interested in bidding - as I only live aways down the road from there. My wife is keen on one hand but might slap me if I spend any more beofre getting my first one up and running. So if other folks are passionate I will bow out. I've seen a few come and go on there from time to time....
 
Actually I have decided that I will bow out because the guy wasn't overly keen on boxing it up anyway. It looks like it is going to keep increasing in price anyway.
Did anyone end up buying the other two that were for sale a few weeks ago on ebay. they were up in Yamba (NSW). They started at $500 each and I think the auction ran out without a bid.

Cheers,
Tony.
 
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