Bafang Mid Drive

r3volved said:
Well clarified, thank you. Are you affiliated?

Thanks r3volved and I'll definitely use the suggestion on updating the product page. I work directly with Doug Snyder as a representative of California Ebike (see signature) and speak directly with him on a weekly basis. So I'm not "affiliated" in the common eCommerce sense where there is no personal connection between the business and the affiliate. Doug and I have been friends for many years, and although making money should be a high priority for any business, it is not our only priority. Thanks again for the feedback on the product page.
 
What kind of range should I expect using a 48V11AH battery using throttle only? Tryed to use Warrens chart could not understand. I'm right around 190 lbs. Just looking for approximate.
 
Trying to guess what someone's range will be is very hard. There are too many variables. Whether you pedal and how hard, whether you sit bolt upright or crouch, how hard you accelerate and whether you run WOT. The surface and grade has a huge effect too. And with the motor running through the gears, choosing the right gear has a huge effect, probably greater than any of the others.
 
BBS-2 36v 25a max w/16ah 20" bike. 2 days so far and testing the real world limits. The 25amps will eat your battery ohso much vs. the BBS-1's lower amp limit. But if it's acceleration & speed you want, you have to go BBS-2's. I'm getting close to 30mph on WOT now that I've set my speed limits (mine was set at 40kph/20mph).

I'm not clipped in to my pedals, so I've a feeling that being an effective pedal bicyclist drastically improves the batteries range due to the lower assistance level required.
 
Just looking for approximate with throttle only. Of course will be using PAS at times. Just use a level asphalt surface for example using throttle only sitting upright with 2.4 tires. Will it get better range then a bafang 48V500W 260rpm geared/brushless rear hub on same 26" wheel?

Thought BBS-2 was 20A max?
 
The fact is, a middie has to transfer the power through the drivetrain. While it is efficient when climbing, due to appropriate gear selection, if your seeking top speed & efficiency, a hubbie is where it's at above the point where pedaling is futile (pedaling generates 100+ watts vs. the motors 1000's).

36v & 25a is giving me ~900w to the drivetrain. Not sure how much amps my system is generating as there is no LCD readout of amps, nor watts. It's pretty simplistic readout all in all, but I like it compared to my other bike w/CA v3. But it does feel like ~20a at my max speed on a flat, no headwind terrain. My 29er with 10t geared MAC rear hubbie @50v 25a gets me 30mph and the CA is reading ~18a at WOT. 900w middie vs. 1200w hubbie, interesting eh?

Edit: oh yeah, and if your goal is for efficiency at top speeds >25mph, I think a direct drive hubbie is where it's at. It's where it's aways been. :lol:

Edit edit: a direct drive in a small wheel with lots of volts and amps. Typically, you can't buy these features in a store per se. They are niche items, and you're in luck, ES's "for sale" section has those parts. But it takes a greater than technical & mechanical know how. Too big a project for a layman (like myself) without learning along the way.
 
Looking for more efficiency then speed. Have hub motors now that can easily do 30 mph but looking for more torque for the sole purpose most of my riding is off road but wondering if a 20 mile range is realistic for all of you with the experience.

By the way .......Thank you !!!
 
Starting to feel your direction now. You want to keep the original weight on your rear wheel because you have FS bike in the build. Middie all the way. But the Bafang, IMO isn't the best choice. There is a 1/2 second delay before the controller cuts power to the motor, not sure why this is in this system, but it is mild annoyance for on the fly shifting on the road, even more annoying if your riding steep techy trails. Your basically stutter stepping as your riding (wait for the power to cut off, then change gear) which is a big deal in "rideflow". Could be no problem if your downshifting, but if your up shifting, it could eat gears and prematurely wear out your chain. Someone clarify about this, it's not in my bike so I have no experience with a dérailleur system. :?:

Someone chime in about this system used in an XC, AM, DH usage please. Are there better systems for this style of riding :?:
 
Kepler and others in the "Bafang Programming thread" and the main "Bafang mid drive thread" have pretty much solved the issue of needing the power to cut out quickly for shifting. There are a few different choices on how to accomplish this.
They have also found that they are able to get about 50% to 100% percent more range using the Bafang mid drive than a comparable hub motor bike. This is because the mid drive system is able to keep the mid drive motor in a gear where it is more efficient most of the time. This is not possible with a hub motor because it's speed has to vary along with the speed the bike is traveling. This is especially true when a hub motor has to spin at lower speeds as when traveling slowly or starting from a stop. Most of the Bafang BBS0x users are easily getting much more than a 20 mile range with an 11AH battery. Ranges of 30-35 miles are being reported on relatively flat paths if the rider contributes by pedaling some. The range on trails in the woods are pretty hard to predict, but findings have shown the range to be quite a bit more than hub drives, and while needing quite a bit less amps.

Good luck with what ever you decide.
 
Ranges of 30-35 miles are being reported on relatively flat paths if the rider contributes by pedaling some.

35 miles / 56km is easy on a BBS02 48v/11aH. That's mostly flats but with headwinds.

Need to pedal a bit for that but they are bicycles, not motor bikes after all. :)
 
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