Unless you want to void the warranty by fiddling with and tapping into the built-in controller, the CA would just be a glorified Watt Meter. The Bafang Display already has an odometer and rough battery guage.
I recommend just getting a $25 watt-meter like this:
And actually, I have grown fond of just a simple Digital Volt meter display. Once you get a feel for how the battery voltage behaves over the course of a discharge, I find that I can gauge battery life and instantaneous current pretty accurately, based on the no-load voltage and voltage sag under power.
I really wanted someone to build a bike with some kind of strain gauge feeding back into a CA to get torque-sensing. Honestly, I'd jump on a Bafang right now and shell out another $300 if there was an off-the-shelf solution like that-- torque-sensing is awesome. But I don't think it's been done. You might be stuck with something like a PowerTap wheel, or you might be able to get a THUN in there with some ingenuity and craftsmanship.
The BBS02 is a clean mid-drive, but responsive torque control would make it really, really awesome.
I hope that I'm understanding you right - that you are looking for a torque sensing bb motor, if so look here.
http://www.xofomotor.com/ProductsAllZ3.asp?id=162&Str=CENTRAL-MOTOR
So now I have a question regarding the connection of this unit.
I ordered the power unit from Amazon but instructions are not crystal clear.
One side is to be connect to the battery and the other side is connected to the motor. Does that mean the power line (red) is disconnected and ALL the power now flows through the meter, in through the connection to the batter and out the other side of the meter via the connection to the motor as shown below?
UPDATE
So did some Googling and ended up back on this forum (surprise!!) here. Went to the supplied manual (page 18) which shows the wiring options. I was not happy running all the current through the meter, and the manual supports the "three wire" approach: "Generally, the three-wire connection is the highest performance and is recommended. The four-wire "jumper cable" approach can be easier to understand and may simplify connector usage."
The top diagram is the four wire (easier) approach. The bottom image is the three wire approach which only carries a load on the black wire.
Does anyone have issues with the three wire approach?