Best high current connector

Balmorhea said:
skidmark said:
I like XT150's. Easy to disconnect and pretty easy to solder if you have a decent iron.

You never see a solder-only high current connector in industrial machinery. Crimping is not only much faster and easier to do, it’s also much more reliable.

I like the form factor of XT90s etc., but I would only install them on my own equipment if they could be crimped.

This is exactly why I was thinking of crimping and using Anderson's. They just do everything I want - easy to disconnect, well insulated, high current and crimpable
 
cg_ebiker said:
This is exactly why I was thinking of crimping and using Anderson's. They just do everything I want - easy to disconnect, well insulated, high current and crimpable

Yep, and they are available locally for most. One more good reason why so many builders of powerful bikes are using them.
 
Just do dis/re-connect every once in a while

spray a little DeOxId

if they just sit little oxidation builds increases resistance

self-wiping feature
 
I think that most large gauge connectors are crimp because of how hard it would be to heat large scale connectors. Can you imagine the size of iron you would need for 4, 2, 1 or larger gauge wire? The copper would suck the heat away like crazy! Crimping works great when properly done.

On my bike that will pull 200 amps for maybe 15 seconds I run these 8mm anti sparks, https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ose-qs8-anti I’m at 65 mph in that time........

They now have 10mm anti sparks if you want the biggest ones. https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ose-qs10-anti

These connectors are very tight and compact compared to Anderson’s. I thought that I was too tight on space for my pack to stuff 4 Anderson Connectors in my frame.....maybe they would have fit but it would have been tighter. I have my 20s wired as two 8s15p and one 4s15p. I use a MaxE controller with built in BMS so I’m not pulling the battery out except for winter storage. My hobby dual battery charger does up to 8s so I put them in storage charge for the winter and then fully charge them for spring before installing them back in the bike. I personally love these connectors I’m using in the links above.

As for your phases I would personally recommend gold bullet connectors, 8 or 10mm will be fine for your set up. https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ose-8mm-bullet Or https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ose-10mm-bullet

I can solder very well. I have never had a cold joint nor a failure at a solder joint. I also use a good solder that has a higher melting point. I don’t believe you can pull enough amps through your bike to heat any of the aforementioned connectors or the Anderson’s that others linked to.

Let us know what you end up with.

Tom
 

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Big bullets sure can take a lot of power. Yet, the comments about reliability of soldered connectors are true. Usually, it is not the solder melting in the bullet that causes the failure, but progressive oxydation and fatigue of the wire strands close to the solder. I have experienced oxydation as far as a 8 inches inside the insulation (despite shrink tube and liquid tape), forcing wire replacement. They are good enough for RC lipo bricks assembly because the cells won’t overlast them anyway, but from there and everywhere on the bike, crimped connectors are a safe long lasting solution.

Crimped connectors are long term reliable because the wire is keeping all its flex and silver tin in perfect condition. Even a relatively small 8 ga Turnigy wire crimped to a big Anderson, passing frequent spikes of current twice its rating and disconnected many times a day, can last many years and lots of mileage reliably.
 
litespeed said:
I don’t believe you can pull enough amps through your bike to heat any of the aforementioned connectors or the Anderson’s that others linked to.

...........Unless have a 400-600lb bike and a big hill... lol...

Then you need an "Andre the Giant Anderson... "... ( the only reason Andersons exist, little known fact..., . (that and the forklifts..)... :) )

I mean, look at this junk we have to choose from. pretty much the only thing that would require a huge Andersons is a fork. Or.. you know, that guy. I mean look at this RC quality junk. Thing is, many will still use it forever no matter what I say.

User error.. part failure... underdesigned. 3 long term ( most common?) causes of circuit failure in my book.

PowerConnection.jpg


Andersons are overpriced, heavy, glorified, spade connectors. Prove me wrong. Lol.

I have been exploring D-sub family power transfer connectors for goodness sake. Positive interlocking, weatherproof, gasket, noncorrosive? where have all these things gone? Not news?

Srry for being .. into this stuff. Im interested. For real. I am exploring common options you see on OEM EV too. Tig whip quick connects, ect... connectors, I also believe in an emergency disconnect too, in case of ... need to open circuit fast, manually. Andersons shield from potential harm there, I believe in the design..
 

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Yep. I use no power switch other than controller cut-off toggle on my handlebar. No fuses, no anti-spark, no BMS. I unplug my Lipos off after every ride. And, I bulk charge fast using the battery power leads. Riding all year long in a cold country, crashing a few times a year. I also let the kids riding my bikes, who don’t know sh*t about electricity. That is what I call connectors abuse. I like them big and safe. My first building rule is KISS (Keep It Stupid Simple).
 
litespeed said:
I think that most large gauge connectors are crimp because of how hard it would be to heat large scale connectors. Can you imagine the size of iron you would need for 4, 2, 1 or larger gauge wire? The copper would suck the heat away like crazy! Crimping works great when properly done.

Precisely! Nice battery btw :D
 
cg_ebiker said:
litespeed said:
I think that most large gauge connectors are crimp because of how hard it would be to heat large scale connectors. Can you imagine the size of iron you would need for 4, 2, 1 or larger gauge wire? The copper would suck the heat away like crazy! Crimping works great when properly done.

Precisely! Nice battery btw :D

Thanks buddy!
 
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