I recently added one of Thud's designed centrifugal fans to the build. Bottom line is that it works great and reduces temperatures by a minimum of 20C on my commute. Some data comparisons without and with the fan can be found here: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=44287&start=15
Build No. 2 - Reduction Drive - now w/ NEW video
- Thread starter mauimart
- Start date
pff7
100 W
Nice vid, mauimart! Seems so smooth....what is the speed limit where you were driving?
Sometimes I get people that pass like that too, bet he was looking (or rather ga-gaing) your creation over as he knew not what he was looking at !!!!!!
Sometimes I get people that pass like that too, bet he was looking (or rather ga-gaing) your creation over as he knew not what he was looking at !!!!!!
Here's a video using the non-free version of RaceRender. This time I collected data at the CA's 5Hz rate. Not sure it's any better than 1Hz. In any event I'm pushing some decent power through this little motor as I climb the switchbacks of Haleakala, bleeding-off the amp hours of my 10AH pack quite quickly. I think it's time to see if I can stuff another 3 bricks in the battery box... Lean angle is moderately aggressive in the final curve (5:00). 
As far as data is concerned I'm thinking of adding a 3-axis accelerometer and displaying some G-force data. You can really feel this thing pull when shifting gears (shifts into 6th and 7th starting at 4:40). All shifting takes place at WOT and this is the first time that I also did some downshifting at WOT (4:22, 4:59, 5:27). Good times. 
[youtube]8mH7KN_vb0I[/youtube]
As far as data is concerned I'm thinking of adding a 3-axis accelerometer and displaying some G-force data. You can really feel this thing pull when shifting gears (shifts into 6th and 7th starting at 4:40). All shifting takes place at WOT and this is the first time that I also did some downshifting at WOT (4:22, 4:59, 5:27). Good times. [youtube]8mH7KN_vb0I[/youtube]
Byte
1 kW
Nice! I love to see the real time data
As of late I have been pushing the limits of the turnigy C80100. Just yesterday I was going to see if I could average 2500 to 3000W on my commute home. This would require using 8th gear. In the process of shifting from 7th to 8th under WOT, the bike underwent a surge of roughly 5000W input power and it all resulted in a bent motor shaft and a toasted bearing. I'm impressed with the power output of this little motor yet not surprised at the result. There are clearly some shortcomings in terms of motor construction that it make difficult for the motor to handle these power levels. I plan to replace the shaft with something from McMaster-Carr, unless someone knows of a better source for the 12mm shaft. It will also be the third time I will be replacing the bearings. I'm surprised that these tiny bearings last as long as they do at these power levels. Following the rebuild I will dial back the power to levels that will prolong the life of the motor.
[youtube]IWs_cJIeKtY[/youtube]
From McMaster
Hardened Shafts
Shafts are case hardened and precision ground for exacting diameter and straightness tolerances. They have a 9 rms micron finish (unless noted) for inch sizes; 12 rms micron finish (unless noted) for metric sizes. Straightness tolerance is 0.002" per foot for inch sizes; 0.03 mm per 300 mm (unless noted) for metric sizes. Ends are beveled.
See our selection of shaft supports.
View minimum hardness depth for these shafts.
For technical drawings and 3-D models, click on a part number.
Metric Sizes—Steel
Shafts are 1055 steel (except 3 mm and 13 mm Dia. shafts are 52100 steel and have a straightness tolerance of 0.025 to 0.050 mm per 300 mm). They're stronger than stainless steel shafts but are less corrosion resistant. Case hardness is Rockwell C59-C65.
Lg.,
mm Each
12 mm Dia.
200 6112K103 $6.09
400 6112K104 12.53
500 6112K52 15.62
1,000 6112K53 31.25
1,200 6112K17 37.51
1,500 6112K54 46.85
2,000 6112K55 62.52
Metric Sizes—Stainless Steel
These 400 series stainless steel shafts have good corrosion resistance but are not as strong as steel shafts. Case hardness is Rockwell C52-C56.
Lg.,
mm Each
12 mm Dia.
200 6459K23 $11.26
400 6459K24 22.44
600 6459K26 33.67
800 6459K27 44.85
1,000 6459K28 56.11
1,200 6459K29 67.29
[youtube]IWs_cJIeKtY[/youtube]
From McMaster
Hardened Shafts
Shafts are case hardened and precision ground for exacting diameter and straightness tolerances. They have a 9 rms micron finish (unless noted) for inch sizes; 12 rms micron finish (unless noted) for metric sizes. Straightness tolerance is 0.002" per foot for inch sizes; 0.03 mm per 300 mm (unless noted) for metric sizes. Ends are beveled.
See our selection of shaft supports.
View minimum hardness depth for these shafts.
For technical drawings and 3-D models, click on a part number.
Metric Sizes—Steel
Shafts are 1055 steel (except 3 mm and 13 mm Dia. shafts are 52100 steel and have a straightness tolerance of 0.025 to 0.050 mm per 300 mm). They're stronger than stainless steel shafts but are less corrosion resistant. Case hardness is Rockwell C59-C65.
Lg.,
mm Each
12 mm Dia.
200 6112K103 $6.09
400 6112K104 12.53
500 6112K52 15.62
1,000 6112K53 31.25
1,200 6112K17 37.51
1,500 6112K54 46.85
2,000 6112K55 62.52
Metric Sizes—Stainless Steel
These 400 series stainless steel shafts have good corrosion resistance but are not as strong as steel shafts. Case hardness is Rockwell C52-C56.
Lg.,
mm Each
12 mm Dia.
200 6459K23 $11.26
400 6459K24 22.44
600 6459K26 33.67
800 6459K27 44.85
1,000 6459K28 56.11
1,200 6459K29 67.29
A series of unfortunate events:
Following the motor shaft replacement, which was successful, I ran into some other problems with my daily commuter. Under normal operating conditions I lost all 3 of the internally installed hall sensors. There must have been some sort of short somewhere in the motor on either the 5V or gnd rails and it took out all three in one fell swoop. Luckily there was no damage to the controller. I decided to fix the issue using external halls since I was running out of space for another internal hall installation. Upon completion of the external installation, I did some short test rides and things were back to running smoothly. The following day I resumed my commute and on my way home the chain stay portion of the rear triangle snapped in two -- a clean break just behind the weld. I was extremely fortunate as I was under pedal power, traveling no faster than 7mph up hill. My commute to work consists of a downhill run where I reach speeds up to 40mph. My commute back home consists of me pedaling for the first half of the trip and then I power up to full WOT, 2000W, 30mph. Had the failure occurred at that point I think the whole rear assembly of the bike would have ripped off. Not sure if I would be typing this right now. I have an identical frame from which I could easily replace the failed part however I am sure under the same stresses it would also fail in time. I'm sure that my shifting under full power had much to do in fatiguing the aluminum. That is after all what caused the motor shaft to bend. I think I will count my lucky stars, retire this beast, and start on my next build which will include a solid downhill frame. My words of advise: Don't use cheap, crappy frames for high performance e-bike conversions...
Following the motor shaft replacement, which was successful, I ran into some other problems with my daily commuter. Under normal operating conditions I lost all 3 of the internally installed hall sensors. There must have been some sort of short somewhere in the motor on either the 5V or gnd rails and it took out all three in one fell swoop. Luckily there was no damage to the controller. I decided to fix the issue using external halls since I was running out of space for another internal hall installation. Upon completion of the external installation, I did some short test rides and things were back to running smoothly. The following day I resumed my commute and on my way home the chain stay portion of the rear triangle snapped in two -- a clean break just behind the weld. I was extremely fortunate as I was under pedal power, traveling no faster than 7mph up hill. My commute to work consists of a downhill run where I reach speeds up to 40mph. My commute back home consists of me pedaling for the first half of the trip and then I power up to full WOT, 2000W, 30mph. Had the failure occurred at that point I think the whole rear assembly of the bike would have ripped off. Not sure if I would be typing this right now. I have an identical frame from which I could easily replace the failed part however I am sure under the same stresses it would also fail in time. I'm sure that my shifting under full power had much to do in fatiguing the aluminum. That is after all what caused the motor shaft to bend. I think I will count my lucky stars, retire this beast, and start on my next build which will include a solid downhill frame. My words of advise: Don't use cheap, crappy frames for high performance e-bike conversions...
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