+1. thanks for the great work!Merlin said:O M G .....thank you so much
Good news: got my delivery alreadypendragon8000 said:Hi all, just wanted to say thanks for your great work on the Cycle Analyst guys. I am so happy with my first one on my first bike a got another for my second build.
teklektik said:...This guide reflects the state of affairs through B22-Prelim3. As soon as B22 is released an updated guide will be posted to reflect any last minute tweaks. New Config forms are posted above - these are good to record B22P3 settings when moving to B22.
Enjoy!
There has been some discussion about this jitter issue which in the end is a display effect. The cap will help the display in firmware up through B22 but will not benefit the actual accuracy or limiting behavior. A planned firmware upgrade should soon fix the display issue so if you want to hold off a while, Justin will fix it without the need for the cap hack.rscamp said:Re: Temperature Sensor
"Jitter: Some display jitter is normal. Excessive jitter may be reduced somewhat by soldering a monolithic 0.47uf capacitor across the thermistor NTC and Gnd pads." 8)
The mounting side is immaterial. Since you only mention one arrow, it sounds like you may have a RPM input from the sensor but no direction input. If this is the case, everything is working correctly - there is not enough information to discern direction. You need to supply a Dir input which can be either of:Kepler said:For some reason both forward and reverse pedaling will activate power. The sensor is a hall effect type that givs out a pulse output. The arrow in the setup page changes direction with each magnet pass of the sensor.
I have the pedal direction set to reverse. I wonder if part of the issue is that the sensor is fitted on crank side rather then the normal non crank side.
Nope - you need a sexier PAS unit with two sensors. Here's an image from the User Guide:Kepler said:Can I simply just wire this to the Dir pad rather then the PAS pad in the CA or do I still need 2 separate inputs?
Please refer to the PAS section of the User Guide - it should clarify some points. But - the MaxThrotSpd setting only affects the "&" PAS modes, so you may have been tricked if you tried it when in an "|" mode.Merlin said:I tried B22 also and my Settings to Max Thro Speed (6kph) wouldnt work.
This is working correctly - these are TRQ modes and you have a simple PAS cadence pickup - without the proportional torque input, you get no assist.trq | thro
trq & thro
has no effect. no assist. no motor spinning.
Ha! This isn't meant to be practical, it's meant to comply with European ebike regulations (no pedal = no throttle!)rpm & thro works too, but i have to give throttle power when i want assist from motor. (not practical in any way )
Nope - this is working perfectly. The problem is that a PAS cadence sensor is non-proportional - it is an on/off switch to a fixed amount of assist that does not vary with RPM. Once you hit the 'ON' threshold, it's "Away you go!".rpm | thro mode starts cool and smooth (4sec delay)
but it pushes to max speed ...on start everything is fine...with normal human power the assist helps really smooth. but when you set max speed maybe 30 and just want to take a tour with your girlfriend (16-20kph)
everytime you pedal the power goes till 30. you have to start and stop pedaling....
maybe i have set something wrong?! donno...will test today again.
Nope - you need a sexier PAS unit with two sensors. Here's an image from the User Guide:
Hmm - retrofit a four wire cable or it may be time to snake some wires through the down tube...Kepler said:I was hoping to avoid the extra wiring as I am tying to keep this build as minimalistic as possible.
teklektik said:There has been some discussion about this jitter issue which in the end is a display effect. The cap will help the display in firmware up through B22 but will not benefit the actual accuracy or limiting behavior. A planned firmware upgrade should soon fix the display issue so if you want to hold off a while, Justin will fix it without the need for the cap hack.
The remark about 'display effect' was referring to the 'normal' jitter that is arising because of the absence of display averaging and the software being stretched to show the trailing 1/10 degC which is pretty much on the edge measurement-wise.rscamp said:Why would the jitter be so much worse before I added shielding to the cable to the thermistor if it is just a 'display effect'?
teklektik said:The remark about 'display effect' was referring to the 'normal' jitter that is arising because of the absence of display averaging and the software being stretched to show the trailing 1/10 degC which is pretty much on the edge measurement-wise.
I think there may be something else in play in your ESC situation because of the pulsed throttle signal. Justin has a lot on his plate and can't always keep after this thread - if you want a quicker answer, you might email him directly at ebikes.ca. Very interesting problem (unless you're living it, I guess....)
teklektik said:Please refer to the PAS section of the User Guide - it should clarify some points. But - the MaxThrotSpd setting only affects the "&" PAS modes, so you may have been tricked if you tried it when in an "|" mode.Merlin said:I tried B22 also and my Settings to Max Thro Speed (6kph) wouldnt work.
Hello Tek, thx for answer.
I will try it in & PAS Mode.
This is working correctly - these are TRQ modes and you have a simple PAS cadence pickup - without the proportional torque input, you get no assist.trq | thro
trq & thro
has no effect. no assist. no motor spinning.
Ok, i thought it was only "like" trq...my hoping was that the power assist come from PAS signal speed.
Pedal slow rpm (30 rpm) = low voltage throttle
Pedal fast rpm (80 rpm) = normal/max throttle voltage.
that would be cool and the problem with 0 to max speed while pedal were away
Ha! This isn't meant to be practical, it's meant to comply with European ebike regulations (no pedal = no throttle!)rpm & thro works too, but i have to give throttle power when i want assist from motor. (not practical in any way )
So there was a missunderstanding from me....
i thought i have to pedal WITH normal motor-assist and CAN use the Throttle.
Now i have to Pedal WITHOUT assist and get only Pedal-Assist when i push the throttle.
i agree with no pedal = no throttle
but in germany we "need" only:
no pedal = no assist, no throttle faster then 6 kph
pedal = assist to 25kph, throttle till 6 kph
pedal to get throttle is same illegal
Nope - this is working perfectly. The problem is that a PAS cadence sensor is non-proportional - it is an on/off switch to a fixed amount of assist that does not vary with RPM. Once you hit the 'ON' threshold, it's "Away you go!".rpm | thro mode starts cool and smooth (4sec delay)
but it pushes to max speed ...on start everything is fine...with normal human power the assist helps really smooth. but when you set max speed maybe 30 and just want to take a tour with your girlfriend (16-20kph)
everytime you pedal the power goes till 30. you have to start and stop pedaling....
maybe i have set something wrong?! donno...will test today again.
Ok i have understand. But i cant get it in my brain that theres no way to set the v3 to:
10 Magnetic Pulses from PAS / second = 1,5voltage
12 Magnetic Pulses from PAS / second = 1,7voltage
14 Magnetic Pulses from PAS / second = 2,0voltage
16 Magnetic Pulses from PAS / second = 2,3voltage
....and so on...just an example.
that would be come close to an usable throttle forced by different RPM speeds. I know from standing still starting in Gear 30 i get no or only slow assist.
no matter..that would be best setting. i dont start my car in 6th gear. when i want to go faster you have to gear down to more rpm
Something i have to try again is the Setting to start/spin/assist ....default is 40x18ms
i tried from 5 to 99 everything. with 1/4 crank rpm motor starts like an angry bull...thought also that set up 90 x 18ms will end up in 1-2-3 crank rpm before motor starts :?
i tried to set up the throttle from path through to Speed. and the Throttle max speed works. thats cool. BUT the thro Max speed is for all 3 presets. so i can only go 6kph in all 3 modes
There are a few things you can do:
...Really think about. But give it a try 200 bugs + shipping + tax will be an expensive try ....wish i could drive a thun sample in Germany
- Add an Assist Level Knob using the Aux Pot input - see the User Guide. This will let you easily dial in the boost you want.
- Add an Assist Level knob using the method in the 'Tips and Tricks' section of the User Guide. This does not involve Aux Pot if you want to use Aux Pot for another purpose like a preset selector switch.
- Buy a proportional torque sensor like a Thun.
All that aside, you have a very nifty installation and it seems to be configured spot on.
okay - I think I understand. The different conditions of the different laws are a little slippery.Merlin said:So there was a misunderstanding from me....teklektik said:Ha! This isn't meant to be practical, it's meant to comply with European ebike regulations (no pedal = no throttle!)Merlin said:rpm & thro works too, but i have to give throttle power when i want assist from motor. (not practical in any way )
i thought i have to pedal WITH normal motor-assist and CAN use the Throttle.
Now i have to Pedal WITHOUT assist and get only Pedal-Assist when i push the throttle.
i agree with no pedal = no throttle
but in Germany we "need" only:
no pedal = no assist, no throttle faster then 6 kph
pedal = assist to 25kph, throttle till 6 kph
pedal to get throttle is same illegal
I have to admit that I had a similar thought when I first started reading about the PAS wheels. I think one of the difficulties is that the CA doesn't know what gear you are in so 30rpm does not always mean the same thing from an assist perspective - you need more assist power at 30 rpm in high gears than you do in low gears.Ok i have understand. But i cant get it in my brain that theres no way to set the v3 to:Nope - this is working perfectly. The problem is that a PAS cadence sensor is non-proportional - it is an on/off switch to a fixed amount of assist that does not vary with RPM. Once you hit the 'ON' threshold, it's "Away you go!".rpm | thro mode starts cool and smooth (4sec delay)
but it pushes to max speed ...on start everything is fine...with normal human power the assist helps really smooth. but when you set max speed maybe 30 and just want to take a tour with your girlfriend (16-20kph)
every time you pedal the power goes till 30. you have to start and stop pedaling....
maybe i have set something wrong?! donno...will test today again.
10 Magnetic Pulses from PAS / second = 1,5voltage
12 Magnetic Pulses from PAS / second = 1,7voltage
14 Magnetic Pulses from PAS / second = 2,0voltage
16 Magnetic Pulses from PAS / second = 2,3voltage
....and so on...just an example.
that would be come close to an usable throttle forced by different RPM speeds. I know from standing still starting in Gear 30 i get no or only slow assist.
no matter..that would be best setting. i dont start my car in 6th gear. when i want to go faster you have to gear down to more rpm
The Strt Delay parameter is defined like so:Something i have to try again is the Setting to start/spin/assist ....default is 40x18ms
i tried from 5 to 99 everything. with 1/4 crank rpm motor starts like an angry bull...thought also that set up 90 x 18ms will end up in 1-2-3 crank rpm before motor starts :?
Strt Delay x18mS: This number determines the minimum amount of time (in 18mS increments) between PAS pulse intervals before the CA assumes that you are pedaling. The smaller the number, the faster you need to be pedaling at take-off before the CA’s PAS mode will kick in.
Okay - here's something you can try with B22:i tried to set up the throttle from path through to Speed. and the Throttle max speed works. thats cool. BUT the thro Max speed is for all 3 presets. so i can only go 6kph in all 3 modes
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I believe the thinking was that there would only be one PAS preset - the others would be throttle-based. This may be a case of not having fully realized the implications of all these nasty pedalec laws that folks must obey. Justin will need to review this... I know there is very limited EEPROM config memory available at this point.
...Really think about. But give it a try 200 bugs + shipping + tax will be an expensive try ....wish i could drive a thun sample in GermanyThere are a few things you can do:
- Add an Assist Level Knob using the Aux Pot input - see the User Guide. This will let you easily dial in the boost you want.
- Add an Assist Level knob using the method in the 'Tips and Tricks' section of the User Guide. This does not involve Aux Pot if you want to use Aux Pot for another purpose like a preset selector switch.
- Buy a proportional torque sensor like a Thun.
'Nifty installation' = I like your PAS wheel mounting . 'Spot on' = You CA seems to be working as designed - the different modes work, etc. They may not do what you expected, but it seems every mode worked correctly....i nifty installation and configured spot on?....i feel like the first v3 / Ebike user in GermanyAll that aside, you have a very nifty installation and it seems to be configured spot on.
teklektik said:There has been some discussion about this jitter issue which in the end is a display effect. The cap will help the display in firmware up through B22 but will not benefit the actual accuracy or limiting behavior. A planned firmware upgrade should soon fix the display issue so if you want to hold off a while, Justin will fix it without the need for the cap hack.
Great news. We'll have to see how much averaging is being added in B23, but it's good to know the cap trick is effective for difficult situations.rscamp said:The temperature reading is now stable regardless of the throttle setting so