Diagnosing potted battery pack | Premature Failure | Cells or BMS?

eBikeaholic

10 mW
Joined
Jul 21, 2017
Messages
22
Location
Austin, TX
Please help clarify the main cause of premature failure for a potted 52v 12ah (Samsung 30Q) eBike battery pack.

It's been having trouble balancing but with some patience it can get up to 58.6v, then rests at 58.4v the next morning (sometimes dips closer to 56-57v after sitting for a day or two). All seems fine until I ride it: gets about half the usual range (under 6 miles instead of 11 or 12) on the same usual routes/conditions... even when I stay in a low gear and mostly use my legs, goes about 5 mph slower top speed (35mph instead of 40mph), and the resting voltage quickly drops to around 55v after the first few minutes of riding.

Ultimately it feels like the cells are having a harder time handling the current draw resulting in a higher voltage sag. This would indicate damaged cells, right?

I sent this explanation to the battery seller (who is also the manufacturer) asking for some clarification on what could be failing. They asked me to fully discharge (hit the lvc) the pack then send a video of it being used under load until it hit the lvc again. The video shows that the lvc is tripped at 49.0v (via the DPC-18 eBike display). The resting voltage then reads 54.0v via multimeter at the charging port. They then kicked it up to a manager who just offered a discount for a new pack but no explanation. I again asked for clarification but all they replied is "A very small percentage of the BMS can fail in this way so it is probably nothing you did."

The pack is about 1 year old and has 600 somewhat abusive road miles. It's powering a DIY 1500w Bafang Ultra (30A stock controller) prototype commuter bike with 58T/17T Nexus 3 IGH. Most of the miles have been for suburban car replacement using pedal assist in 2nd gear (6.1 gain ratio) pushing 750-1000w with occasional bursts of 1500w to maintain the flow of traffic. The controller is programmed to give full power when cruising and I'm often towing my toddler and dog or 200 lbs of groceries in a bike trailer through a somewhat hilly neighborhood.

The main purpose of this project is to test the durability of the 30Q cells which I was hoping would stand up to the abuse. I always fully charged then intentionally fully discharged the pack a handful of times during range tests which leads me to believe I've probably damaged some of the cells. It was always able to get back to balance until the last time it accidentally (and prematurely) hit the lvc while towing my toddler in his trailer up a hill at the end of a short casual ride.

I obviously shouldn't have used a potted pack for this experiment (bc I can't get in there to test anything) and 12ah is not enough capacity to handle the high discharge (and high voltage sag) demanded by this setup.

I need to decide how to prevent this from happening on the next prototype eBike build. I was considering buying two of these 12ah potted packs to run parallel - hoping that the higher capacity would better handle the higher current draw... and obviously not intentionally hitting the lvc any more. If it's BMS failure though, potted packs seem like a bad idea for these experiments.

Any ideas on how to confirm if this issue is stemming from the BMS or cells?

If it's BMS failure, does that mean the BMS malfunction simply doesn't allow it to balance all the cells?

If it's damaged cells, which factor do you think contributes more: high bike gearing (6.1 gain ratio), high current draw (low capacity battery continuously running at full power), hitting the lvc too often, or towing a heavy cargo load (200 lb grocery trailer up hills)?
 
when testing 40t or 30q, 2 minutes after charging the at rest voltage will be 4.195v, 14s-58.7v

let it sit longer and i think it settles around 4.18v, 14s-58.5v

in winter and cooler temps like 10 celsius with my 25r, volt sag will go from 5v to 9v and range and power suffer, are you keeping your batteries in a heated space or cold garage?

are you running your pack down to 42v?

right now my cells sag to about 3.5v for the majority of my ride

if you look at the last posts of the 40T and P42a test in my signature, i discharged at minus 10 celsius and you can see the difference in discharge curves and capacity. i have a 30q i can throw in the fridge for 24hrs at 5 celsius and do a discharge to see capacity
 
30Q is no good, inconsistent build quality for in a big pack, too many failures.

VTC6

LG HG2

50E and

40T much better, last especially for high C-rates
 
For a potted pack, does it really matter what went wrong? Seems like it's all the same unless it's an imbalanced condition that can be remedied by prolonged charging (and not fully discharging).
 
Is there any access to even the BMS ?....or is it fully encapsulated ? ..access to balance leads ?
Does the BMS give any data output ?.. individual cell or group voltages ?
Be very wary of potted packs, unless you are VERY sure of the quality of the components, cells, and the builder.
But certainly not a good idea for an experimental project
But also ....hauling bike+ rider + Trailer with 200 lbs,..over hilly roads ??.....sounds like a real workout for that 12 Ah pack .
Any photos ?
 
heres the test, after sitting in fridge at 5 celsius for 18 hours voltage dropped to 4.161v (14s=58.254v) after being charged to 4.2v

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=108547#p1603943

fFzp6Ju.png


BlAlHHb.jpg


if youre running high watts like 1500 watts in cold temperatures you would hit the 49v lvc (3.5v) after using about 1200 mah so lowering lvc to 42v might solve your problem OR maybe you have a bad cell
 
Authentic 30Q's are good, but their popularity has led to the market being flooded with counterfeits.

I like potting for water proofing and shock resistance. However, I would not pot the BMS. I would just have the multi-wire connection between the pack and BMS be water-proofed with dielectric grease, and I would spray the BMS with an aircraft-grade conformal spray (for condensing humidity) with the BMS located inside a housing to protect against splashing and rain.

Battery failure is always 90% BMS issues, or more.
 
Im not so sure about the good quality of 30Q, Im more on john61ct side here.
I have limited experience though, but I used 3x 30Q 136 in a vape. After a bunch of cycles, maybe 50 tops one started to go higher ir. It discharged faster than the others, but still took the "right" amount of mAh to charge. It also dropped faster in voltage at rest from fully charged.
I split them up and used the other 2. But they perform worse than 2 years older sony vtc6, they have higher ir so they hit lvc during discharge earlier. I cant even use them in a more demanding mod at high power(about 130W), they hit lvc when they are fully charged.I can use the old vtc6, but I prefer vtc5a that works better under high loads. Mine is from NKON, they should be genuine.
It seems the 141 (or what the newer ones is called) might be better.
 
spinningmagnets said:
Authentic 30Q's are good, but their popularity has led to the market being flooded with counterfeits.

I like potting for water proofing and shock resistance. However, I would not pot the BMS. I would just have the multi-wire connection between the pack and BMS be water-proofed with dielectric grease, and I would spray the BMS with an aircraft-grade conformal spray (for condensing humidity) with the BMS located inside a housing to protect against splashing and rain.

Battery failure is always 90% BMS issues, or more.

Can't be certain about the cell authenticity at this point, but I've bought a few battery packs from this company and feel pretty confident they wouldn't jeopardize their brand reputation using counterfeits.

Can you elaborate on 'failure is always 90% BMS'? Is it more likely that the BMS would fail to balance the cells or that it fails to protect them from overdischarge? Ultimately having the BMS set to 42v lvc is supposed to protect them from getting damaged in the first place, right?


Chalo said:
For a potted pack, does it really matter what went wrong? Seems like it's all the same unless it's an imbalanced condition that can be remedied by prolonged charging (and not fully discharging).

Truth, it might be too late for this pack - I've been trying to patiently get it back in balance for a few months. Even when the voltage reads right the bike rides sluggish then prematurely trips the lvc and I wind up pedaling my heavy ass grocery trailer home without assist.

I want to know what failed because I'm considering getting two more of these small potted packs and running them parallel. This is still a decent option if the failure was caused by my abuse - mainly fully discharging a low capacity pack too often. If it's an uncommon BMS failure then it's just a roll of the dice I suppose?

Ultimately I'm testing this pack for a prototype bike and prefer the potential benefits of potting. I'm about ready to pull the trigger on an mk2 bike design and need to decide if sticking with these potted packs is a bad idea.


Hillhater said:
Is there any access to even the BMS ?....or is it fully encapsulated ? ..access to balance leads ?
Does the BMS give any data output ?.. individual cell or group voltages ?
Be very wary of potted packs, unless you are VERY sure of the quality of the components, cells, and the builder.
But certainly not a good idea for an experimental project
But also ....hauling bike+ rider + Trailer with 200 lbs,..over hilly roads ??.....sounds like a real workout for that 12 Ah pack .
Any photos ?

No access inside, it's encapsulated tightly on top 3 sides, no BMS output on this version. I do have confidence in the pack manufacturer, but yeah in hindsight potting and 12ah was not at all an ideal choice for this experiment.


goatman said:
i didnt notice it was tripping at 49v when i first read your post
49v/14s=3.5v

whats the lvc set at?
is this happening in cold weather

The lvc is set to 42v on the controller and bms. I've run it down to hit the lvc 5 times for range tests (and curiosity), but it was able to fully balance and maintain performance after each one. The trouble started after an accidental and premature lvc trip during a casual summer ride. I'm in Texas so it doesn't get very cold here - winter overnight lows usually around 40F.


john61ct said:
30Q is no good, inconsistent build quality for in a big pack, too many failures.

VTC6

LG HG2

50E and

40T much better, last especially for high C-rates

How about LG MJ1? What if I run two 13.5ah packs in parallel (27ah) and avoid tripping the lvc - do you think the 30Q or MJ1 would still have issues with this usage?
 
eBikeaholic said:
...
How about LG MJ1? What if I run two 13.5ah packs in parallel (27ah) and avoid tripping the lvc - do you think the 30Q or MJ1 would still have issues with this usage?

At what max current? 30A? On a side note; I would go for one large pack instead of two smaller packs if you can avoid it. It may not help you now but a battery pack with a smart BMS that allows you to check the cell group voltages can be quite handy for troubleshooting etc...
 
j bjork said:
Im not so sure about the good quality of 30Q, Im more on john61ct side here.
I have limited experience though, but I used 3x 30Q 136 in a vape. After a bunch of cycles, maybe 50 tops one started to go higher ir. It discharged faster than the others, but still took the "right" amount of mAh to charge. It also dropped faster in voltage at rest from fully charged.
I split them up and used the other 2. But they perform worse than 2 years older sony vtc6, they have higher ir so they hit lvc during discharge earlier. I cant even use them in a more demanding mod at high power(about 130W), they hit lvc when they are fully charged.I can use the old vtc6, but I prefer vtc5a that works better under high loads. Mine is from NKON, they should be genuine.
It seems the 141 (or what the newer ones is called) might be better.

heres how to spot fake 30q/141

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=108525

if you notice in my good 30q test i believe i link to the new 30q test by nkon

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=108547#p1592844

. the new 30q isnt the old 30q/136. it also seems to be able to self heal. ill be showing more of that but just look at cycle #100 and #200 of good 30q test

id go lg hg2
 
Your symptoms resemble a pack I had once where two of the balancing shunts on the BMS shorted and would slowly drain those two cell groups to near zero. Upon charging, they would come up, but the other cells would reach over voltage and cut the charge off before the bad cell groups were charged, resulting in very short run times. The cell groups that were pulled low by the shorted shunts were also damaged and no longer safe to use.

The only way to really test this would be to dig out the potting around the BMS so you can measure individual cell groups.
 
The production consistency problem is with genuine 30Q

does not show up in any tests of individual cells

and has not been shown to get better with a newer "generation"
 
pwd said:
eBikeaholic said:
...
How about LG MJ1? What if I run two 13.5ah packs in parallel (27ah) and avoid tripping the lvc - do you think the 30Q or MJ1 would still have issues with this usage?

At what max current? 30A? On a side note; I would go for one large pack instead of two smaller packs if you can avoid it. It may not help you now but a battery pack with a smart BMS that allows you to check the cell group voltages can be quite handy for troubleshooting etc...

Yeah currently 30A max stock controller... brings up a good point though I'll likely try a controller upgrade soon (probably Archon x1) which can go up to 45A.

Can you elaborate a little more on why to avoid using two packs. How about using a medium size pack paired with a smaller pack? The idea is to have one pack that can handle most city/suburb trips within 10 miles, then plugin the second pack for the occasional longer ride.
 
john61ct said:
The production consistency problem is with genuine 30Q

does not show up in any tests of individual cells

and has not been shown to get better with a newer "generation"

any links to test data for that?
 
eBikeaholic said:
pwd said:
eBikeaholic said:
...
How about LG MJ1? What if I run two 13.5ah packs in parallel (27ah) and avoid tripping the lvc - do you think the 30Q or MJ1 would still have issues with this usage?

At what max current? 30A? On a side note; I would go for one large pack instead of two smaller packs if you can avoid it. It may not help you now but a battery pack with a smart BMS that allows you to check the cell group voltages can be quite handy for troubleshooting etc...

Yeah currently 30A max stock controller... brings up a good point though I'll likely try a controller upgrade soon (probably Archon x1) which can go up to 45A.

Can you elaborate a little more on why to avoid using two packs. How about using a medium size pack paired with a smaller pack? The idea is to have one pack that can handle most city/suburb trips within 10 miles, then plugin the second pack for the occasional longer ride.

Whatever pack you end up with be sure to take the discharge ratings with a grain of salt if you already aren't. IE: It's best to run them at less than their ratings.

The reason I prefer one single pack vs multiple packs in parallel it will give you a simpler setup. One BMS, less connections etc... and potentially less cost if you are buying multiple packs new. With paralell packs you have to ensure each pack is at the same voltage before connecting them together (with ~0.1V). I ran parallel packs for a couple years and it worked OK but switching to one pack made life simpler. I did have one instance where the BMS cut out on one pack (current limit) and the other pack took the full load. There are benefits to having paralell packs if you want modularity etc.. however.
 
goatman said:
john61ct said:
The production consistency problem is with genuine 30Q

does not show up in any tests of individual cells

and has not been shown to get better with a newer "generation"

any links to test data for that?

Again, the phenomenon is not one that gets revealed by single cell testing.

If say 0.2% of the cells wear out prematurely, then the number of large-cell-count packs affected will vary by just how many cells are used per pack

and it shows up as seemingly "random" early failures of the whole pack, maybe hundreds of cycles in.

I've provided authoritative links before in similar discussions recently, so not going to google for them yet again, since I know you're clever enough to find them just as easily as me, and if you want to keep believing otherwise no skin off my nose.

Pretty sure @pajda is among the many credible sources having observed it.
 
eBikeaholic said:
How about using a medium size pack paired with a smaller pack?
Works great in theory, but every added complexity is a higher risk of problems.

Do you **really need** that lower weight?

The cycle lifespan of a single pack used to a lower avg DoD% can be triple or more

 
john61ct said:
eBikeaholic said:
How about using a medium size pack paired with a smaller pack?
Works great in theory, but every added complexity is a higher risk of problems.

Do you **really need** that lower weight?

The cycle lifespan of a single pack used to a lower avg DoD% can be triple or more

Good points. From a car replacement standpoint the heavier the cargo the lighter I want the bike and trailer to be. You're right though, the weight savings of splitting the battery pack would probably only shed a few lbs and the Bafang Ultra is definitely capable of handling the higher power levels needed.

It's not just about weight though. My bike frame concept is a weld-free modular design that allows battery packs to be mounted in multiple locations, but the physical size of the pack affects where it can fit and/or rider ergonomics.

From a DIY perspective, it's definitely more connections to worry about but some brands (R&M, wattwagons etc.) have been running dual pack setups for years and continue to include them on new models so it must be fairly reliable if it's done right. Biktrix just raised $1.2mil on Indigogo for their new dual pack model... will be watching to see how that goes, but it shows there's definitely a market for it.

Wattwagons also sells a converter that says it can run two packs with a different SOC but I don't know much about that yet... https://wattwagons.com/products/dual-battery-converter
 
Not talking about multiple sub-packs used concurrently, distributed around the frame.

Anything that helps you carry higher Ah capacity is A Good Thing.

It's swapping out big vs small packs that I think would rarely be worth the added complexity.
 
eBikeaholic said:
It's not just about weight though. My bike frame concept is a weld-free modular design that allows battery packs to be mounted in multiple locations, but the physical size of the pack affects where it can fit and/or rider ergonomics.
Forum member MadRhino uses this method. Because he rides a FS bike that doesn't have space for a big triangle battery pack. IIRC he divides up among frame pack, handlebar pack, and (maybe?) backpack pack? Check out his descriptions of his ride.
 
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