Doctorbass 2WD ADAPTTO / NYX / MXUS 32kW 105 pounds

[Ohbse]

John, are you saying that I should accept slow acceleration

Wrong! Misconceptions and following others who never took the time to properly tune their systems and understand what the different settings actually do will keep you from getting the most out of your system. Let's assume the battery current displayed in your video is correct. Then drawing 11kw from the battery at 5kph is creating tons of extra heat in the system that isn't necessary to create the torque you feel. I don't have an Adaptto, so maybe it requires a different ratio since we already know that the 400A isn't real and can never be real with only 11kw coming out of the battery.

John - I think you might have a misconception of your own there.. of course 11kw coming out of the battery is incorrect because that 400a is not at battery voltage. At very low speed the voltage the motor is seeing could be a mere 10v and 400a. The defined phase current on the adaptto is correct - each phase has current measurement baked in. There's no reason to believe 400a is not possible, I strongly suspect your setup would briefly pull similar currents at low speed. Despite the configured phase current the older 'infineon' controllers are notorious for massive overshoots at low speed. People moving to Adaptto controllers have often lamented the lack of 'punch' at low speed relative to their older controllers. This is because the Adaptto is *actually* delivering the current you set - not near limitless for the first fraction of a second. As you've touched on, you can get away with that on a low power setup, but not so much at motorcycle levels of power.

You're absolutely correct regarding high current efficiency. Endlessly bumping battery current in pursuit of performance is a recipe for compounding heat issues and disappointment. That said, running a very high level of phase current at low speed doesn't always have to lead to huge heat issues. It really depends on route and riding style. Just because I have my adaptto settings turned up doesn't mean every time I tweak the throttle it's going to hit it with a burst of current, it will only deliver what you ask for - this is another key difference between these controllers and the older style.

I have found that there's an upper limit of usable phase current, in my case it's the point where even with all my weight shifts forward I end up looking at the sky. For my short wheel base DH Comp this point is about 240 phase amps. This is pretty easily calculable with the weight, weight distribution and centre of gravity estimation for the vehicle and the torque constant of the motor, temperature of the windings and size of the rolling stock. In my case the adaptto defined current pretty closely aligns with the calculations I put together to calculate wheelie point. FYI I run an 80amp battery limit most of the time. 6.5kw is enough to hit the speeds I desire and ~200 phase amps is enough to get there quickly with no heat issues at all. Bike and me weigh 112kg with gear on. With more mass, longer wheelbase or a more front focused weight distribution I could use more phase current.

 

[gensem]

I dont have a working bicycle to test phase current atm.
Continuous phase amps in max-e is 200, 360 its for shorts bursts.
If 360a was continuous saturation on the mxus 4t woulda heat it utterly fast but lets pretend the hub is really getting all thoses amps from a torque perspective equals a insta flip over when you open the throttle.
A 3t mxus with 200 continuous phase amps during aceleration is feasible but it will heat and bog down after some pulls.

 

[John in CR]

Ohbse,

The 400A can't possibly be real for any duration as explained earlier. 400A x 400A X 112mOhms = 17,920 watts of heat in the motor phase wires, so it's before power out, controller losses, overcoming iron core losses, increasing copper temps, etc. It's simply impossible with only 11kw coming out of the battery.

 

[gensem]

Ohbse,

The 400A can't possibly be real for any duration as explained earlier. 400A x 400A X 112mOhms = 17,920 watts of heat in the motor phase wires, so it's before power out, controller losses, overcoming iron core losses, increasing copper temps, etc. It's simply impossible with only 11kw coming out of the battery.

John math is right. 400a in a MXUS 4t is impossible and if you had enough battery amps its just plain stupid.
But 200a in a 3t is feasible for a couple pulls as I said before. 200x200x0,07.

Btw we need to stop over rating hub motors.
400a phase is 50lbs 273 (<30mohm) scooter hub motor territory.

 

[John in CR]

John there is so many parameters in these controller to tune them properly or.. improperly that in my opinion they can be tuned in every single way you can imagine....

Doc

Not the best way I can imagine if only 160A battery side is permitted with 400A phase side limits. Exactly the ridiculous 2.5:1 that is just an arbitrary ratio carried over from the days of only low power ebikes, which I submit is inappropriate for high power. Now if the 400A is peak of the waveform and the current the motor sees is more like 280A, then things make a lot more sense, especially since Allex isn't hitting WOT right off the line to avoid flipping on his back, so maybe less than 250A, though I question keeping the front down at over 250nM that would create with his MXUS.

Ebikes have kickass physics, and a lot of key things boil down to pretty straight forward numbers. When those leading by example with the highest performance systems share numbers, they have a responsibility to understand them well enough to ensure they're reasonably accurate to help others avoid failures. Let's make sure they at least pass some overall tests of reasonableness.

In that regard I applaud Doc for sharing the info about pack voltage when running high current. I don't understand much about the voltage overshoot, but it's definitely worthy of more in depth discussion to help everyone understand. I thought it was quite motor dependent, so if current alone is the major factor then we all should learn about it...especially with so many running 24s on 100V component controllers.

 

[Doctorbass]

Ohbse,

The 400A can't possibly be real for any duration as explained earlier. 400A x 400A X 112mOhms = 17,920 watts of heat in the motor phase wires, so it's before power out, controller losses, overcoming iron core losses, increasing copper temps, etc. It's simply impossible with only 11kw coming out of the battery.

John, The 400A phase does not occur at 100% PWM ( duty cycle) dont forget about the current multiplication effect.. low pwm x high current = high pwm x low current.. so when ther eis 400A thru the phase the pwm is not 100% time but maybe 30 or 40% so in fact if you do the average equivalent amo for 100% duty cycle to calculate teh resistive heat generated then you also multiply that current by 30 or 40% witch mean it is not R * I^2... since P is not 100% of the duty cycle. otherwise with 160A batt and 100V batt for 16kW input you could create 400A x 100V = 40kW.. so that woud become a free energy genrator! :lol:

About the mosfet switching, when mosfet turn ON and off, there is a voltage spike higher than teh battery that the mosfet see due to the inductive load from the stator. These spike are what damage the mosfet when 24s is used with 100V rated mosfet. each time the mosfet switch On and OFF there is a spike so for exemple for the adaptto the freq of teh PWM is 18kHz so there is 18000 time spike per second.. witch slowly destroy the mosgfet when their voltage push higher than what they are rated for.

Doc

 

[John in CR]

Allex,

I completely understand wanting at least the option of getting near flip over torque, but I'm absolutely lost in trying to understand why someone wouldn't want maximum acceleration through the mid-range of a 100kph+ ebike. For me that's where the real fun is, and that takes power.

 

[John in CR]

Ohbse,

The 400A can't possibly be real for any duration as explained earlier. 400A x 400A X 112mOhms = 17,920 watts of heat in the motor phase wires, so it's before power out, controller losses, overcoming iron core losses, increasing copper temps, etc. It's simply impossible with only 11kw coming out of the battery.

John, The 400A phase does not occur at 100% PWM ( duty cycle) dont forget about the current multiplication effect.. low pwm x high current = high pwm x low current.. so when ther eis 400A thru the phase the pwm is not 100% time but maybe 30 or 40% so in fact if you do the average equivalent amo for 100% duty cycle to calculate teh resistive heat generated then you also multiply that current by 30 or 40% witch mean it is not R * I^2... since P is not 100% of the duty cycle. otherwise with 160A batt and 100V batt for 16kW input you could create 400A x 100V = 40kW.. so that woud become a free energy genrator! :lol:

About the mosfet switching, when mosfet turn ON and off, there is a voltage spike higher than teh battery that the mosfet see due to the inductive load from the stator. These spike are what damage the mosfet when 24s is used with 100V rated mosfet. each time the mosfet switch On and OFF there is a spike so for exemple for the adaptto the freq of teh PWM is 18kHz so there is 18000 time spike per second.. witch slowly destroy the mosgfet when their voltage push higher than what they are rated for.

Doc

Doc,

Other than the torque ripple, the motor sees current as a continuous line during hard acceleration, not with gaps you speak of at the PWM frequency. Otherwise torque would also suffer. Yes, phase current is higher than battery current, but under hard acceleration the difference isn't multiples of battery current. Use the slider to different speeds on the ebikes.ca simulator to verify. Phase current multiplication is most prominent during partial throttle use. Those situations are a big part of my argument for a low phase/battery current limit ratio, because it helps limit phase current multiplication.

 

[Allex]

John this is because my riding is 80% off road and I need the most at 0-50km/h before I brake to avoid that tree in front. But those 20% on road - yes, mid-range acceleration is fun.

 

[madin88]

The problem is Adaptto has fallen into the same trap of thinking 2.5:1 is an appropriate ratio. THAT RATIO IS ONLY APPROPRIATE FOR LOW POWER SYSTEMS, because they're typically legally limited in power and the extra heat is still small enough for the motor and controller to handle. They need to lower the max phase current limit and raise the max battery current limit.

it would be better to say high ratio makes most systems inefficient and creates tons of heat when accelerating, but it also makes sure you have full BATTERY POWER in any situation.
only with such high ratio we have that great EV grin on the face because we have the possibility to out accelerate ICE vehicles with much more horse power.
lowering the ratio would simply turn as back and we only would have high power on the wheel above a certain rpm or speed (like ICE engines).
personally i would not want to miss that option and i would say Adaptto have done it absolutely right making this possible
in "normal mode" i do not use such high ratio and its more like 1:1,5. additionally Adaptto has a function called "acceleration ramp" or someting like this, and with this setting we also can keep phase amps low during acceleration, but we still can make use of very high phase amps needed when climbing steep hills.

btw: what ratio does the tesla model s have or other electric vehicles?

if Allex has set 160A bat with 72V battery, he has maximum power of about 12kW. If he want to have that 12kW in every situation with that 4T mxus with its 110mOhm, it would mean he must set at least 330A phase. 330A^² x 0,11 = 11,98kW. Setting higher amps will not mean higher amps flow into the motor. it only means the controller never will reach that phase current limit and ALWAYS should operate in battery current limit. If he would make phase wire upgrade and resistance drop from lets say 110mOhm to 100mOhm, he could pump 346A into the motor at same 12kW 8)

 

[John in CR]

John this is because my riding is 80% off road and I need the most at 0-50km/h before I brake to avoid that tree in front. But those 20% on road - yes, mid-range acceleration is fun.

For Off-road it is even more important to run a low limit ratio, because so much more of the time is spent at partial throttle. The high ratio copied from <750W systems is a contributing factor to the greater heat problems you guys have off road.

You, Martin, and Doc are arguing like I'm saying you should give something up, but the opposite is true. I'm trying to help you get more. Adaptto is essentially forcing you to put a hard limit on battery current, but let phase current run rampant to a large extent. That way results in overshooting phase current that you don't want or feel. Phase current is what causes problems.

What I'm suggesting is the opposite, and by more tightly controlling phase current you can run the system at higher power with less heat stress without giving up anything. I got into this when controllers were our limitation if you didn't want to spend exorbitant amounts, and my issues were compounded with 50-100kg greater loads than typical ebikers, mountainous terrain, and harder to drive low inductance motors. Once the XieChang programming was hacked we had unlimited battery and phase limit settings at our fingertips, which enabled me to learn how to get the most out of the system. I have to credit MWKeefer for sharing what he learned through much experimentation that got me on the right track. I blew a lot of controllers in the process, but since going this direction (knock on wood) I haven't blown a single controller despite enjoying greater power and acceleration than ever.

Go ahead and keep following the settings first suggested on the forum by someone who doesn't even have an ebike anymore. Since I don't know WFT I'm talking about, go ahead and use the biggest wheels that will fit and use slow wind low power motors too. That way the beached whale in the tropics and others who refuse to simply follow the crowd will fly by with higher performance more efficient rigs.

If the 400A max is a real limit motor current limit, maybe Adaptto will take note and at least experiment with reducing it a bit, while at the same time raise the battery limit for a more powerful controller. Another option would be instead of fixed single limits, enable the use of say a 180A or 200A battery limit, but only in conjunction with lower phase limits.

 

[Allex]

If you want me to lower the phase amps I think I need at least 250-300 batt current to have a good torque , like on my dirt bike. Or go down to a 16" wheel but then I would look like a clown.
But lets wait and see if they can release a 250A controller first.

 

[Doctorbass]

But lets wait and see if they can release a 250A controller first.

Or if Adaptto release dual parallel controller mode =))) 320A batt using the same sync cable as for 2WD

Doc

 

[ridethelightning]

subscribe

 

[Doctorbass]

Sweet! I'm going to get my ebike back from Interbike this evening!

Cedrick from Nyx confirmed me that the crate should arrive today :wink:

My 90kW max ultra compact lipo pack is 95% ready.

Things are going well !!

I should be able to du real test in the next days!!

Doc

 

[MadRhino]

I guess I'm gonna continue building with infineon controllers for a while, and keep focusing on lighter weight to improve performance. A bike that is 30 Lbs lighter does make for a lot of tweaking phase Amps, with quick handling and shorter braking distance as a bonus.

The Adaptto does look interesting, but I will let you guys experiment until it proves with real world results. :wink:

 

[zombiess]

John, What killed my Adaptto was my fault due to abuse of higher voltage and high kv motor and as well high phase current.... it was during cold weather ( as you know we have it here..) and mosfet was cold so their Vdss was lower than the spec 100vdc max according to the spec sheet, add that to the 22s ( full battery ) of 90V and high kv motor and 330 A phase. and you get the perfect key to kill controller. The breakdown voltage of these 4468 fets is 115V ad add the fact that the overshoot in voltage is about 10V per 100A phase and you get 330/10 = 33Vdc higher than the battery voltage = 123V witch is 8 volt above the breakdown voltage... the Adaptto at least , last for about 5km before dying...

Doc

If you take a MOSFET such as the IRFP4468 and exceed the Vds rating (100V) in this case, the MOSFET will go into avalanche clamping and spike in a similar fashion to a Zener diode. This can be done repetitively as long as the thermal limits are not exceeded. Even though the devices are considered rugged and rated for repeat avalanche use, it is not something that is good to bump up against. In the IRFP4468 datasheet you can view fig 15 for some more info. I'm not too familiar with avalanche other than a few experiments I've done to determine the true Vds of a device using a single pulse.

Your failure was most likely thermal related. I believe the Vds rating is good for the entire thermal operating range of the MOSFET which is determined by the junction temp. Spec sheet says -55C to +175C, but environmental testing should be performed on an entire controller to find it's temperature operating envelope. It's possible that other parts on the controller cause the failure due to them operating beyond their spec for the given temperature.

I have opened up a Max-E over a year ago and examined it's build. The controller is not suitable for low inductance motors. If I dig up my pictures I can even calculate what it's OK to run with it inductance wise. DC Link capacitors really limit ability. The other glaring issue is the lack of adequate heat sinking. The controller has a single thin aluminum bar with MOSFETs mounted on both sides (9 on each side) and only the thin edge of the bar contacts the case. This means the controller might be Ok for short high power bursts such as ebike use, but it is not OK to run at any continuous power more than a few kW at best. This would mainly be an issue on extended high current pulls or during demanding use such as climbing a steep hill.

The controller was designed to fit into small spaces and work with high burst power. This is a design trade off.

When it comes to powering low inductance motors and controller failures, there are many factors at play. I can and have successfully run and abused 18 MOSFET (IRFB4115) Xie Chang controller at 100A (for short pulls of 10s) on a 30uH high speed Cromotor. While this is way beyond what this controller is capable of running safely, I was just trying to find the limits. I've also popped an 18 MOSFET (IRFB4115) controller in less than 20ft by setting the phase amps too high. Controller was still cool to the touch. The point I'm trying to make here is you must understand the limitations of your gear and stay within it's operating envelope.

 

[ridethelightning]

Sweet! I'm going to get my ebike back from Interbike this evening!

Cedrick from Nyx confirmed me that the crate should arrive today :wink:

My 90kW max ultra compact lipo pack is 95% ready.

Things are going well !!

I should be able to du real test in the next days!!

Doc

here is one of my max-e controllers built into a pannier rack.

I have not even bothered to remove the paint on the controller or use thermal paste, but the fet temps are noticeably far lower then before i built it this way.

during charging, i can feel the whole alu structure getting warm, as it dissipates the excess heat.

because the square alu pipes also have air flowing through while riding, the whole assembly never gets very warm while riding and the fet temps are usually only just above ambient.
during bursts of high current, the fets get warm but the temps drop back to near ambient very fast. so now the motor temps are really the limiting factor

so from this i conclude that the conductivity of the aluminim is excellent at keeping the temps down, even though the alu rail in the controller is quite small, the excess heat can be wicked away into quite easilly into a contacting structure.

 

[Doctorbass]

John, What killed my Adaptto was my fault due to abuse of higher voltage and high kv motor and as well high phase current.... it was during cold weather ( as you know we have it here..) and mosfet was cold so their Vdss was lower than the spec 100vdc max according to the spec sheet, add that to the 22s ( full battery ) of 90V and high kv motor and 330 A phase. and you get the perfect key to kill controller. The breakdown voltage of these 4468 fets is 115V ad add the fact that the overshoot in voltage is about 10V per 100A phase and you get 330/10 = 33Vdc higher than the battery voltage = 123V witch is 8 volt above the breakdown voltage... the Adaptto at least , last for about 5km before dying...

Doc

If you take a MOSFET such as the IRFP4468 and exceed the Vds rating (100V) in this case, the MOSFET will go into avalanche clamping and spike in a similar fashion to a Zener diode. This can be done repetitively as long as the thermal limits are not exceeded. Even though the devices are considered rugged and rated for repeat avalanche use, it is not something that is good to bump up against. In the IRFP4468 datasheet you can view fig 15 for some more info. I'm not too familiar with avalanche other than a few experiments I've done to determine the true Vds of a device using a single pulse.

Your failure was most likely thermal related. I believe the Vds rating is good for the entire thermal operating range of the MOSFET which is determined by the junction temp. Spec sheet says -55C to +175C, but environmental testing should be performed on an entire controller to find it's temperature operating envelope. It's possible that other parts on the controller cause the failure due to them operating beyond their spec for the given temperature.

I have opened up a Max-E over a year ago and examined it's build. The controller is not suitable for low inductance motors. If I dig up my pictures I can even calculate what it's OK to run with it inductance wise. DC Link capacitors really limit ability. The other glaring issue is the lack of adequate heat sinking. The controller has a single thin aluminum bar with MOSFETs mounted on both sides (9 on each side) and only the thin edge of the bar contacts the case. This means the controller might be Ok for short high power bursts such as ebike use, but it is not OK to run at any continuous power more than a few kW at best. This would mainly be an issue on extended high current pulls or during demanding use such as climbing a steep hill.

The controller was designed to fit into small spaces and work with high burst power. This is a design trade off.

When it comes to powering low inductance motors and controller failures, there are many factors at play. I can and have successfully run and abused 18 MOSFET (IRFB4115) Xie Chang controller at 100A (for short pulls of 10s) on a 30uH high speed Cromotor. While this is way beyond what this controller is capable of running safely, I was just trying to find the limits. I've also popped an 18 MOSFET (IRFB4115) controller in less than 20ft by setting the phase amps too high. Controller was still cool to the touch. The point I'm trying to make here is you must understand the limitations of your gear and stay within it's operating envelope.

Zombiess,

Thanks for the explanation, i did'nt know that fets was acting as a zenner diode in avalanche state that is good to know. For my understanding: Adaptto said they measured that these fets at 115V in breakdown. They recommand optimum voltage of operation at 85V( about 20-21s for 4.15V per cell) ( so that's about 30V margin before breakdown. Now that's not counting the sag voltage that contribute i guess to increase that margin to maybe 35 or 40V higher than the Vbatt state. Jeka, their engineer said they measured that these fets get 10V spike per 100A phase. that seem to match with the 30-40V witch is 350-400A phase max spec.

When and the only time i blew the adaptto was with the 18kv motor at too high voltage and too high phase current. The 5302 is a true controller killer !!. I killed about 5 Lyen 18 fets controller with that motor in the past. But last automn, when i blew the adaptto it was not due to high temp, in fact the adaptto remain very cold compare to the Lyen 4110. The adaptto 18 fets produce 4 time less heat than the Lyen 18 fets. The 4110 are 3.7 miliohm rds ON while the 4468 of the adaptto are half of that, plus the 4110 to-220 case have less surface in contact with the heatsink than the 4468 have. The Adaptto is monitoring the mosfet temp and it can limit the current if temp goes too high.

The new 14kW MAX-E will be using 8 gauge wire instead of 10gauge and should have better caps. And the algorythm that give phase amp have been improoved.

The actual setup that i have on the 2WD remind me very closeli the config i had with my Giant DH comp. It had a 5303 ( kv of 12) and was operating 24s on a 18 fets Lyen set to 250A phase and 100A batt, then i swaped it to a 120V Kelly because i was tierd to replace fets on the lyen. Now, on that new setup i am using the 45H 205 3T MXUS witch is also a kv of 12, and i'm also using a 100V fets rated controller ( the Adaptto), but this time i will be using 21s instead witch is 12.5V lower meaning about 125A phase more of margin.

For the drag race i will need high phase amp from about 0-80kmh then batt amp will become important and i will drive about 160A batt until 130-140km/h if the OVS ( Adaptto field weakening) is tuned properly.

I was getting 116km/h with a 9kv motor and 22s.. I think it will be possible to get to the 130-140km/h with TWO motor with 33% faster winding and more battery current availlable. Well the torque required at that speed match with what i will have availlable , based on teh ebike motor simulator.
Now it's time to see if theory match with reality as it worked for me since years!

Doc

 

[Doctorbass]

Sweet! I'm going to get my ebike back from Interbike this evening!

Cedrick from Nyx confirmed me that the crate should arrive today :wink:

My 90kW max ultra compact lipo pack is 95% ready.

Things are going well !!

I should be able to du real test in the next days!!

Doc

here is one of my max-e controllers built into a pannier rack.

I have not even bothered to remove the paint on the controller or use thermal paste, but the fet temps are noticeably far lower then before i built it this way.

during charging, i can feel the whole alu structure getting warm, as it dissipates the excess heat.

because the square alu pipes also have air flowing through while riding, the whole assembly never gets very warm while riding and the fet temps are usually only just above ambient.
during bursts of high current, the fets get warm but the temps drop back to near ambient very fast. so now the motor temps are really the limiting factor

so from this i conclude that the conductivity of the aluminim is excellent at keeping the temps down, even though the alu rail in the controller is quite small, the excess heat can be wicked away into quite easilly into a contacting structure.

That is a very nice idea for cooling! sinple, brilliant and easy to do. :wink:
That is what i like with the Adaptto, they have been built with a simple case that you can easy install on a flat surface that will easy cool it !.. In fact i found the Adaptto to run colder than most of the controller for the same power. The fets they use are very efficient and produce less heat and their case have more surface. There is nearly no report that Adaptto controller blew from being too hot. There is a temp monitoring that control current to avoid them to overheat.

Doc

 

[Doctorbass]

Truely INSANE !!!

These are the words that was shining in my head once i truely tested the bike in 2WD mode the first time today!!!

I NEVER tried a hub motor based ebike so quick!!!!..... EVER!!!

After long wait of about 3 weeks including the show at Interbike, i was really impatient to get my Ebike back for test !!!

No full power and no full speed yet and still using the heavy 34 pounds 1.8kWh NMC battery but full optimal test will come soon!!.. well i hope before snow arrive!!! :lol:

I preffer going gradually s small step increase at a time. Is this what drag racer does? :wink:

Outdoor temp here are between 5C and 15C these days... now add the wind chill factor.. ouch.. i need to wear a great jacket!!

I tried with lower voltage to not blow the controller with these high sped wind motor so i charged the 22s to 3.8V/cell, Set the rear motor phase amp to 338A and batt amp to 140A ( still using locked controller firmware yes) and front motor to 150A phase anc 140A batt.

No power timing yet or tuned OVS.

The powerband is awsome!.. it accelerate quickly at ANY speed between 0 to 105km/h max speed tested yet.

I also saw 228A easy and any time i press the throttle and get speed between 35 to 70kmh batt on the rear motor controller!! 19.5kW !!!.. I will have to doublecheck with Oleg because i was told that i 2WD mode the display only see the MASTER controller data ( rear motor)

I am very impressed on how the bike handle with the dual motor setup! To put more weight to the front I just lowered the front fork by about 1.5 inch and it's like it change everything! With that new fork angle i feel alot less the weight of the front motor!

Front tire is inflated to 35 psi and the rear is at 55psi.. the 35 psi actually help alot for front traction!

Teh problem i actually have is that every time i power On the controlelr i have to dial the LS SLAVE controller ( front motor max speed setting) to higher than the 89kmh it always set back to.. It's like the 2WD option was not made for fast ebike above 90km/h.. lol

I'm also impressed by how the Adaptto remain COLD !! Yes i know it's already cold outdoor as well but HEY... 19.5kW and average power still high and controller apear to be at my body temp!! The mosfet temp was not higher than 47 celsius.. connected on a 3T motor!!


Pictures coming soon! video too! :wink:

Doc

 

[Allex]

BIg Congrats! Yes, we def. need a video. Both from the driver position and from third person

 

[macribs]

Pics and vids is great. Looking forward to it.

 

[Cowardlyduck]

That's so awesome Doc. Take it easy, we don't want you to crash!

I've also seen settings revert on my Adaptto all the time. I found that if I configure too many settings at once, then save it will revert some of them back to default. If I just set a few settings at a time it seems to remember correctly.

Cheers

 

[ridethelightning]

staying cool at nearly 20kw is a surprise.

perhaps for longer periods it will get a little warmer.

iv also been impressed with how little heat the max-e will produce, even when climbing long hills at high power.