E-S Phasor Electric Bike Owners

http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/Content/mtbspringratecalculator.htm

If I type in your parameters here it says to use a 500lb spring, so I would try the one you have out before you buy anything else.
inputs:
weight - 90 + 150 = 240lbs
rear wheel travel = 8.1"
shock stroke = 3"
sag - 25%

And you always have a some wiggle room to go a little stiffer with the preload adjuster, but you can't go the other way. The preload adjustment doesn't actually change your spring rate, it will change the sag characteristics of the bike.
 
korpin said:
later it came on and ran fine plenty of juice left did some high speed runs....came home and shut off....tried to turn on again it would not come on for over an hour display completely dead...now its on again showing 89 volts and all my miles were erased?
First you need to ID the source of the problem, if the voltage isn't dropping too low it's probably not the controller LVC. That leaves a single weak cell that's tripping the BMS or the crystalyte APM.
The bike should run fine without the APM connected so first thing I'd do is remove it. Place it in a bucket of water (temperature isn't important) and go test your bike out. If it doesn't cut out again, then the APM was the problem and you can leave it in the bucket of water. If it still cuts outs I'd suspect a weak cell and take it back to HPC for them to sort out. Either way leave the APM in the bucket of water and get yourself a V2.3 cycle analyst :mrgreen:
(the V3 while undoubtably has better features is still in beta and has bugs you can do without)

You've spent a fortune on this build to end up with a nice end result so it seems silly using an inferior specced display like the APM.
It's like buying an expensive new car and opting to only fit an AM radio in it.
 
dpearce said:
http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/Content/mtbspringratecalculator.htm
If I type in your parameters here it says to use a 500lb spring, so I would try the one you have out before you buy anything else.
inputs:
weight - 90 + 150 = 240lbs
rear wheel travel = 8.1"
shock stroke = 3"
sag - 25%
And you always have a some wiggle room to go a little stiffer with the preload adjuster, but you can't go the other way. The preload adjustment doesn't actually change your spring rate, it will change the sag characteristics of the bike.

You are right, normally if its not a progressive spring rate, then the preload will mostly only change the ride height, rider static sag. But what I found with my DNM and 750# coil is that if I compress even a little, it gets noticably stiffer quick in conjuntion with increasing ride height and decreasing rider static sag. So I think compressing MTB shock springs does in fact increase compression because of the increase in coil tension from the compression. Not so much on dirtbikes. But maybe the fox is different. Got to try it to know for sure. For my informaiton, please let me know if thats the case or not.

Rick
Rick
 
You are right the preload adjustment will stiffen it up, I am just saying it doesn't change the spring rate, or how much force is required to compress the spring a given distance. If you preload a 500lb/in spring, it is still a 500lb/in spring.
 
Hyena said:
You've spent a fortune on this build to end up with a nice end result so it seems silly using an inferior specced display like the APM.
It's like buying an expensive new car and opting to only fit an AM radio in it.

well it may have been my fault did not know one of the batteries is higher voltage than the other 2 takes longer to charge....HPC offered me to try one of their new aluminum crown motors from crystalyte since I spent so much may take them up on it
 
50 mph at about 45 amps thats probably tops for this motor any more would probably do some damage was warm on the outside not hot the crown motor could probably run all day at 50 :lol: started out at about 101 volts also,I think speed 3 was set to a max of 50
 

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one last photo while she is shiny and new....after this photo,broke both pedals in seperate incidents and scraped the end off the carbon fiber handlebar not to mention scraping off a bit of axle AND some of my leg and arm!! will let you guys know if I try aluminum crown motor
 

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korpin said:
..after this photo,broke both pedals in seperate incidents and scraped the end off the carbon fiber handlebar not to mention scraping off a bit of axle AND some of my leg and arm...

But you are OK, or ?
 
dh-paule said:
korpin said:
..after this photo,broke both pedals in seperate incidents and scraped the end off the carbon fiber handlebar not to mention scraping off a bit of axle AND some of my leg and arm...

But you are OK, or ?

yeah ok...its been one of those weeks....was in kitchen last night bent over to pick up piece of popcorn and stood up cupboard was open and corner of door hit me in melon blood everywhere few nights before that hit toe on my sofa leg all black and blue then was WALKING phasor across street and accidently hit throttle and bike dragged me could'nt let go! DAMM hope its over not a young dude anymore feel beat up :shock: :shock:
 
dpearce said:
You are right the preload adjustment will stiffen it up, I am just saying it doesn't change the spring rate, or how much force is required to compress the spring a given distance. If you preload a 500lb/in spring, it is still a 500lb/in spring.

I know exactly where you are coming from now, a 500# spring is a 500# spring and that is correct 8) . What I was saying was when I changed the tension on my spring, the characteristics changed as well. For the sake of argument, Lets say my spring was 9" long on my shock with zero compression (spanner nut turned down on the shock tower just until its snugged against the top of the coil). We both can agree that this spring compresses and extends as the suspension moves up or down through its travel. Next, I compress my spring 2 inches more by turning the spanner nut down further (Preload increase), and now its 7 inches long instead of 9. Now after compression, my spring returns to it extended position much faster and top out much easier than it did at 9" because two factors have been changed, increased tension on the coil from additional preload, and shorter coil extension travel from compression to top out. As result, this does increase the stiffness in the suspension, but like you said, it doesn't change the fact that a 500# spring is a 500# spring, or in my case a 750# spring. Sorry for the confusion :?: I should have explained myself better.

Koprin, sorry to hear about your spill. At least you sacrafised your leg to save the bike :D . I would have done the same. If HPC is willing to let you test that new crown motor, you shoud do it. Alot of people would appreciate the feed back on it not to mention you could have some braggin rights as being one of the firsts :mrgreen:. Get healed up and back on the road.

Rick
 
korpin said:
dh-paule said:
korpin said:
..after this photo,broke both pedals in seperate incidents and scraped the end off the carbon fiber handlebar not to mention scraping off a bit of axle AND some of my leg and arm...

But you are OK, or ?

yeah ok...its been one of those weeks....was in kitchen last night bent over to pick up piece of popcorn and stood up cupboard was open and corner of door hit me in melon blood everywhere few nights before that hit toe on my sofa leg all black and blue then was WALKING phasor across street and accidently hit throttle and bike dragged me could'nt let go! DAMM hope its over not a young dude anymore feel beat up :shock: :shock:
Yeah man. If you have a kill switch I would keep the bike off when ever I am not physically on the bike or ready to take off like a rocket ship. Just remember it could have been worse :twisted: .
DIdn't you say they would give you the crown motor? I would take them up on that offer and just take it man. You spent enough money to get something free lol. Hold them to their word this time, lord knows you were surprised enough.
 
Trackman417 said:
DIdn't you say they would give you the crown motor? I would take them up on that offer and just take it man. You spent enough money to get something free lol. Hold them to their word this time, lord knows you were surprised enough.

thats what he said....will be in in a few weeks may try it
 
and what about the hammerschmid crank?
 
This is of a Schlumpf retailer,
"130mm BCD spider available for standard chainrings"
Not quite sure what that means though or if it can be made to work with 120mm.... :?
http://www.cyclemonkey.com/schlumpf-innovations.shtml
 
"Question 2: Does high-speed-drive fit my bike?
The installation is possible into nearly any frame.
The only restriction is the inner diameter of the b.b. shell. We offer h-s-d for installation with cone rings, therefore the inner diameter has to be between 33.6 and 34.5mm.
For larger diameters of the b.b. shell, no adapters are available.
The width of the bottom bracket shell should be 68 - 73mm for the standard version or up to 83mm for the version with 10mm longer axle."

Oh well...
 
dh-paule said:
and what about the hammerschmid crank?
100mm is the widest. Ratios too low 24/38t.
dimpirate said:
This is of a Schlumpf retailer,
"130mm BCD spider available for standard chainrings"
Not quite sure what that means though or if it can be made to work with 120mm.... :?
BCD = bolt circle diameter. Nothing to do with BB width.
 
if anybody figures out a schlumph type drive that will work,I sure wanna know!...was thinking about it...thinking of a 48 front to pedal assist at speeds over 20 mph but will only be able to use 3-4 gears instead of all 9 because of chain hitting arm....gotta do some uphill testing and see what I really need
 
dimpirate said:
This is of a Schlumpf retailer,
"130mm BCD spider available for standard chainrings"
Not quite sure what that means though or if it can be made to work with 120mm.... :?
http://www.cyclemonkey.com/schlumpf-innovations.shtml

called that guy 850.00 bucks !!!!!!!????
 
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