E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

[Hugechainring]

I looked at your photos in the 5403 thread by Doc, and the motor looks nearly identical to the one on my bike.

I'm not sure what the true limitation is on the controller. I believe they are set around 65A. Occasionally my CA says 70A or so for maximum current. You can turn the CA up higher, but the controller won't do anything more than 65-70A without modifying it.

The current isn't really limiting on speed. If you reference some of the other posts here, guys are using only about 3500-3800w at top speed, depending on certain variables such as tire size and type, bicycle or MC, etc.

On the stock Duros, I can get 45mph+ easily, without cutting wind resistance by getting into a tuck. I think 50mph is within reason with a full charge and a fast wind. Rix tested a bunch of 54XX motors, and IIRC there wasn't a whole lot of performance difference between a 5403 and a 5404. He on lost a few MPH in top speed with the 5404, and didn't gain much acceleration.

My stock pack is probably sagging. A little more volts will help, of course.

I've heard of users drawing 100A on a stock pack, but I would probably hold it to 90A just for the sake of longevity. For big amps, I'm going with an 18650 pack, like Allex.

 

[NeilP]

I'll have to go and have a look if I can get to the bike today. It looked more rounded around the edges in the flesh.but now I look at the pics I grabbed yesterday, maybe you are right.

These I believe are its original tyres.

It was stuck right behind a brand new truck in the owners showroom/ sales area and could not get it out.




bigger version

 

[00Tj]

#094! Jesus, that's crazy old! As others have said, probably around 2011.. Maybe earlier. But the condition looks incredible!

What has he asked for it?

 

[NeilP]

It has really never been used, from what I can see..as you see those are the original tyres! Or am I wrong there, i dont think so.

From the brief conversation with the owner, he seems to have no idea what to askOK, so what is it worth?

 

[Allex]

Check theese ads for reference:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=64499&p=983061&hilit=bomber#p983061
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=61453&p=978411&hilit=bomber#p978411

I would say around 5-6Grand if you fix the battery, because it looks like new.
It's a pity that he did not fix it while it was under warranty, damn spoiled kids

 

[Hugechainring]

I'm figuring you're in a position to score, because the bike needs some expensive parts, and the seller probably isn't too intent on wringing every last nickle from the sale. For reference, I paid $4700USD for Bomber #77 shown in the post Allex referenced. It is a running bike, the battery is in good condition, but it has a lot of off road miles on it and needs some repairs and maintenance. It looks identical to #94, sans the Crazy Bobs. Those were/are an optional tire, so those could very well be the originals.

I'm a cheap bastard, but I am always willing to pay a fair price for a quality piece of equipment. If I was standing in front of the guy, I would start at $4000, and work your way up from there. If you got it for $5k, it's a good deal, and you can spend the extra money you didn't spend on the new one on some really nice upgrades or a high output battery, if you so choose.

The only detriment to that frame is that it does not have the bolt-on seat subframe. The welds have been known to crack, even on the bolt-on models. However, there is a lifetime warranty on the frame.

Good luck with your negotiations. That's quite a find.

 

[NeilP]

Ok, thanks for the price guide.
Someone else mentioned about $2000 too, with a working battery.

I put the guy on to them in the first place, when they asked me if i'd build them one. I declined as I did not want any come back to me should the batteries fail, catch fire, burn the hues down , destroy valuable cars etc.

 

[Rix]

Great, thanks

What age would it be at #094?

Anyone have a direct e-mail for anyone there at Stealth or will any of their wrbsite e-mails do?


I a was suprised at it being a stock controller and CA. For the money they sold for I expected a lot more . But I guess the money is in the frame really.


It turns out it never got much use because the charger/battery 'system' failed and battery pack melted when something died in either it or the charger.

For LiPo, with a balanced pack even with no BMS though I'd happily set 68 volt.

Final question, any one know the winding count on the motor? From the soeed they claim I'd guess a higher speed than my 5304, ?

Neil, your Bomber #094 is going to have been made in December of 2011 or maybe January 2012. My Bomber in my avatar pic #143 is was made in April 2012. As far as your controller goes, you are probably going to get more speed out of it with same DC amps Volts input over your other controllers. During this time frame, Stealth was doing some software upgrades with their controller's program settings causing quite a bit increase in top speeds. Several of us were/are getting 54-55MPH bone stock out of the crate with no pedaling HOC. Very impressive when you consider that I weighed 118kg (260#) when I first got my Bomber. Yah, that's a 5403 on the back. What I expect you will get on 20s is north of 50MPH. Figure HOC from a balance charge, your pack will be 84 volts, running healthy cells, you volt sag will probably drop down to 81 volts WOT which makes 50+mph more than doable. I know you know this, but for others benefit, the the 5403 has a 3 turn stator, and weigh 29 pounds. I have tried the 5403, 5404 and 5405 with 19mc, 18mc, and 17mc rims and tires along with the stock 24MTB set up. I could get over 50MPH with all of them on the 5403, 44-45MPH with the 5404, and 38-39mph with the 5405. That's with the older 24s Lifepo4 battery the machine came with and voltage sagging from a settled 80 volts to 74 volts. Because of how heavy I am, I did notice a slight increase in acceleration between with the 5404 over the 5403, but between the 5405 and 5404, they felt identical with 5405 running around 6mph less top speed. That's said, the most amps I could draw with the 5405 was 67, and I would draw 71-72 amps with the 5404 and 5403. All WOT from dead stop. Hope this helps.

 

[NeilP]

Thanks for that , all good info

I see you say you got more acceleration from the 5304 than the 5303..
.I was expecting the other way around, the more torquey motor giving the best acceleration due to the greater torque.

 

[Theodore Voltaire]

Does anyone know who owns Bomber #1, and where it might be?

 

[Rix]

Does anyone know who owns Bomber #1, and where it might be?

I know who has the first Bomber imported in the US, and I can get you the link from ADV if you want, that was in 2008.

 

[Rix]

Thanks for that , all good info

I see you say you got more acceleration from the 5304 than the 5303..
.I was expecting the other way around, the more torquey motor giving the best acceleration due to the greater torque.

Not the 5303 or 5304, but the 5403 and 5404. Yah, I noticed a slight increase in thrust with the 5404 over the 5403. IMO, out of the 54xx series, the 5404 is the best.

 

[NeilP]

I actually came back to correct the mistake I made, and always make when dealing with motor winding .

The 53xx or 54xx mistake was another slip up completely

The mistake I made was thinking the lower number was the slower and more torquey motor, when of course it is the other way around . I always instinctively get it wrong. Less turns equals more speed and less torque, not otherway.

 

[00Tj]

Neil, I would offer USD$2K and wouldn't go any higher than USD$3K.
As I said, there is a bomber on here that is still for sale, that the owner was going to sell to me for AUD$2500. It doesn't have a battery either but comes with a hell of alot more stuff than your's.
Again, as I said, I just paid AUD$5k for my near new #536 bomber. So paying USD$5K for #094 would be (IMO) way to much.

 

[00Tj]

A quick question for all of you...

How the hell do you get the Duro's off the rim???
I am snapping tyre lever's trying to get them off as I need to repair the tube.

Any idea's??

 

[Theodore Voltaire]

A quick question for all of you...

How the hell do you get the Duro's off the rim???
I am snapping tyre lever's trying to get them off as I need to repair the tube.

Any idea's??

I didn't have any trouble with them. Make sure you get the opposite side of the tire from the tire irons down into the center channel. Don't feel bad you're not the first person I've heard that has the same trouble. You can make tire lube with a 50/50 solution of dish washing liquid and water if you need it
.

 

[Rix]

I actually came back to correct the mistake I made, and always nake when dealing with motor winding .

The 53xx or 54xx mistake was another slip up completely

The mistake I made was thinking the lower number was the slower and more torquey motor, when of course it is the other way around . I always instinctively get it wrong. Less turns equals more speed and less torque, not otherway.

No worries amigo, like 00TJ said, if you can get that machine without a battery for 3k USD or less, its a good deal as you can spend about 1k on a custom 20s Lipo pack and be good to go. Not trying to discard or disagree with what 00TJ said, but if you look at this bike from the stand point cost of a DIY option like the Qulbix Raptor or Phasor, 3k for a complete rolling chassis with a functional VBoxx is a screaming good deal, especially if its hardly used.

 

[DunkenKBliths]

Hey guys

looks like my brake lever (rear) has formed a stress crack along the "handle bar attachment"
and now the brake leaver is movable, and eventually will detach !!!

Magura MT2 (2013 Stealth Bomber)



Any one know of a replacement part and place to get it ?

I'm not wanting to upgrade as I know there more pain involved to line things up !!!

Dunk

 

[rgnz]

Hey guys

looks like my brake lever (rear) has formed a stress crack along the "handle bar attachment"
and now the brake leaver is movable, and eventually will detach !!!

Magura MT2 (2013 Stealth Bomber)



Any one know of a replacement part and place to get it ?

I'm not wanting to upgrade as I know there more pain involved to line things up !!!

Dunk

I had tried to bleed my front MT2s several times but in the end gave up and bought a Brand New complete MT2 system for 27pounds from Chainreactioncycles. Came with everything including bleed block screws mounts etc.
RG

 

[00Tj]

Any one know of a replacement part and place to get it ?

I'm selling a set on here..

 

[00Tj]

Ok,

Another small problem.

So I got the tyre on, replaced the tube and got it back on the rim. I put the wheel back on the rear arm and now I cant seem to get it centred properly?
First the wheel was wobbling off centre, but I managed to get it as close to centre as possible but now the rotor is rubbing on the brakes every rotation..
Is there a specific spot the axle is meant to sit in the dropout's? I just can't find the right spot.
Can someone put up some photo's with a tape measure next to the gap where the torque arm thing's are, so I can see how big the gaps are? Cheers.

 

[Allex]

First you need to center the rim. Make sure that you have same distance (on the left and right side) from motor axle to the middle of pivot on the vboxx. After that you need to tension the chain. Tension the small lock nuts equally on both sides until you have the proper chain tention. When you are ready with the wheel you can start on the brakes. Loose the caliper and check one of those videos:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W7I6qlSsGds

Adjust the brake mount sideways so your pads covers the whole disc.

 

[00Tj]

I've tried a million little adjustments back and forth but it's still off centre no matter what I do.. It was perfect before i took the wheel off, now it sucks. I don't know what the hell to do! It's 10:30pm and I have to ride this to work in the morning.

 

[00Tj]

Ok, so after hours of minute adjustments I have got to here.. But it is still out of wack.

[youtube]sQj7kXLngvI[/youtube]

 

[Allex]

Not sure what you mean, if your brake disc wobbles, then you have to straight it out. If you mean that the whole wheel wobbles a bit then check your rim first - straight it out with the help of spoke adjustment(pretty normal procedure especially with a heavy hub motor) . If Rim is fine, check that your tires are sitting properly on the rim. Duros have a flange and it is essential that you make a correct seating with them.