Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
Hey does anyone remember where that blue wire is supposed to go? You got to have a certain level of intelligence to be intimidated by this. I'm not the least bit. :lol:
E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners
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Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
Moving right along
Rix
100 TW
Theodore Voltaire said:
You built the adapter mounting plate to use the same holes as the old Infineon controller? Good idea.
Theodore Voltaire said:
This is the type of tool that you think you might be able to live without, and then suffer a long time without it, and once you get it, you kick yourself for waiting so long, and even more peeved by time you wasted trying to get by without it. That about sums it up from my experience.
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
Technical question for the brain trust concerning the dc/dc converter.
Should the converter be powered all the time when the key switch is on, and turn the lights on with a switch on the secondary, or would you only power the converter when your turn on the lights?
Should the converter be powered all the time when the key switch is on, and turn the lights on with a switch on the secondary, or would you only power the converter when your turn on the lights?
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
Rix said:Theodore Voltaire said:
You built the adapter mounting plate to use the same holes as the old Infineon controller? Good idea.
Yes, I'm not wild about drilling holes in my frame. It would take 4 holes to mount a Kelly controller, and then if I get a Nuc I would have to drill more. This way I can accommodate any controller that comes along without drilling any holes in the frame.
If the converter never powers anything except the lights, then for power-saving I'd switch the input side to turn the lights on.
Buuuut: This means you're wiring battery voltage to your lightswitch....which is okay if it's made for that and you don't mind battery-voltage-level in the wiring harness to wherever your lightswitch is (handlebars, for me). If the switch isn't made for higher voltage, there is no guarantee it will always reliably switch the higher voltage; it is possible for an arc during switching to weld the contacts closed, or burn-damage them so they don't conduct as well as they should. Most of the time, it's not much of an issue, but it depends on the actual switch design. Occasionally I've fried a "12v" switch with 48-60v stuff, even at low (100-200mA) currents. (same with lower-voltage relays than the voltage I'm switching). So...better to use a switch made for the voltage, but it might work fine to use whatever you've got.
So, depends on what you're comfortable with and what your switch is rated for.
Buuuut: This means you're wiring battery voltage to your lightswitch....which is okay if it's made for that and you don't mind battery-voltage-level in the wiring harness to wherever your lightswitch is (handlebars, for me). If the switch isn't made for higher voltage, there is no guarantee it will always reliably switch the higher voltage; it is possible for an arc during switching to weld the contacts closed, or burn-damage them so they don't conduct as well as they should. Most of the time, it's not much of an issue, but it depends on the actual switch design. Occasionally I've fried a "12v" switch with 48-60v stuff, even at low (100-200mA) currents. (same with lower-voltage relays than the voltage I'm switching). So...better to use a switch made for the voltage, but it might work fine to use whatever you've got.
So, depends on what you're comfortable with and what your switch is rated for.
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
Getting into the Kelly set up program isn't that difficult when you know how, and if you already know what settings you want it sould take about 10 minutes, but when you're like me, and never done it before it takes hours. I basically followed most of John Angel's set up recommendations for Onyx bikes, after watching all 3 of Gonzalo Chomon's Kelly tutorial set up videos about 10X.
This controller gives you the option of 1,2, or 3 power levels, or forward, neutral, reverse. My bike has always had 2 power levels, so that's what I chose. I'm not sure how to work it yet. I set the low power range for 35% of full power to start out with. Before running the motor they want you to do a motor Identification angle operation, whatever that means. After that you can give it full throttle. I was kind of dissapointed when it only ran up to about 530 rpm. So far I hadn't tried the low speed setting, and I was thinking if all it does is 530 rpm on high speed, low speed must be really low. I jumped out the low speed wires, and tried it, and it still only did 530 rpm, but after I removed the jumper, now it zooms up to over 1000 rpm. That seems more like it, but keep in mind this is with no load. Because Alex said the default acceleration time setting is pretty leisurely, and John Angel says about the same thing, I bumped it up 1 notch from default.
[youtube]hql_QpbLSqA[/youtube]
This controller gives you the option of 1,2, or 3 power levels, or forward, neutral, reverse. My bike has always had 2 power levels, so that's what I chose. I'm not sure how to work it yet. I set the low power range for 35% of full power to start out with. Before running the motor they want you to do a motor Identification angle operation, whatever that means. After that you can give it full throttle. I was kind of dissapointed when it only ran up to about 530 rpm. So far I hadn't tried the low speed setting, and I was thinking if all it does is 530 rpm on high speed, low speed must be really low. I jumped out the low speed wires, and tried it, and it still only did 530 rpm, but after I removed the jumper, now it zooms up to over 1000 rpm. That seems more like it, but keep in mind this is with no load. Because Alex said the default acceleration time setting is pretty leisurely, and John Angel says about the same thing, I bumped it up 1 notch from default.
[youtube]hql_QpbLSqA[/youtube]
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
This is how they make the sausage, but amazingly it works. As I hoped the ca records speed, distance, and voltage. That's really all I need.
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
amberwolf said:
I decided that the no load draw will be so low I'll wire the converter to be hot whenever the key switch is activated,and let the light switch operate on 12vdc.
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
1abv said:
As far as I know the motor temp sensor is working. The cofig monitor shows a temp reading.
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
I got it all together a little while ago, and I've ridden it about 5 miles. It's real nice. I've very happy with the way it turned out. It's noticeably quicker, especially in the mid range. It doesn't try to do a flip off the line or anything, but if I knew how to do a wheelie, I think it would be pretty easy to yank it up. I haven't charged my battery since August when everything went poop dog racing my son in 100 degrees plus, so I'm running in the lower half of the charge. I did notice that when it's even slightly leaned over in a turn, giving it full throttle is a little scary now, because it picks up speed faster than it used to. I'll get used to it. I felt like the throttle ramping off the line is still a little leisurely even on the next to the slowest setting. The slowest #5 setting must be for driving Miss Daisy. 
I think I'll bump it up another notch.
I'm still waiting for a replacement throttle so I'm using a paddle right now, because it's the only one I have with the right plug. I fell like my speedo is reading a little optimistic for some reason. I haven't changed the tire size so I don't know why it would of changed. I better check it's calibration. I should also mention how impressive my new 220mm rear brake rotor is. The rear brake feels really powerful now.
I think I'll bump it up another notch. I'm still waiting for a replacement throttle so I'm using a paddle right now, because it's the only one I have with the right plug. I fell like my speedo is reading a little optimistic for some reason. I haven't changed the tire size so I don't know why it would of changed. I better check it's calibration. I should also mention how impressive my new 220mm rear brake rotor is. The rear brake feels really powerful now.
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
I think I figured out why the speedo calibration seems off. It's related to the # of motor poles, which has changed. My ca was set for 12 motor poles, so I assume the stock motor has 24 magnets. The new motor has 32 magnets, so I reset the # of poles to 16. I won't have time to try it out till this afternoon.
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
1abv said:
No, I decided to blow it off. I don't think it's necessary, because the Kelly monitors battery current, and phase current, which you can set to limit wherever you want. I can calculate my range with voltage, and the trip meter.
Now that I've adjusted the ca my speedo is accurate again. I put a few more miles on it this afternoon. I'm getting used to the extra power already. It's not super overwelming or anything, but it's a nice gain. There's a lot of extra power right where I need it for riding in traffic, up between 40 and 50. Riding to the post office a little while ago I got it up to 52 mph in less than 2 blocks. Based of this short experience I don't think it's going to have a lot higher top speed than before, but it's going to be more. I'm pretty sure 55 is in the bag, maybe a little more. I doubt 60. I don't really need more top speed though, but more acceleration at higher speeds will be real nice. Normally before, riding in traffic around 45 and up I tended to just follow along behind the car in front of me, because there wasn't much acceleration left at those speeds to pass anyone.
I also tried out my 2 speed switch, which is exactly the same as before. You can hit the button on the fly, just like before, but the difference is now I can adjust for any speed I want. I set it for 35, but I don't know if that's 35% power, or 35 mph. The videos say %. I was on a slight downhill, and it topped out about 38. Acceleration was a lot tamer too.
Rix
100 TW
Bullfrog said:
I rode a bike with a 24 X 3 tire on the UFO5580 peaking 72amps on a 20s battery, it was punchy off the line and pulled pretty quick to 48mph. Its a good combo.
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
Tonight I did a range test, not to see what the maximum range would be, but just to compare power consumption now, compared to before. I tried to ride in a normal manner, but I think I was accelerating hard a lot more than usual. It's hard not to expecially with a paddle.
I rode 28.5 miles with an average speed of 20.8 mph, and a max speed of 52.5 mph. The no load voltage is now sitting at 73.2 v. I never used to think in terms of miles per volt, but that seems just as valid as ah. Based on this ride I was getting 2.92 miles per volt. When I started out my battery was at 83.4 v. Assuming running the battery down to 64v, which I've done a few times, that would be 56.6 miles range. Riding like this before, I think my range would have been a little less than 50 miles, so if anything it's doing better now with more acceleration at the same time. There might really be something to this efficiency thing.
I rode 28.5 miles with an average speed of 20.8 mph, and a max speed of 52.5 mph. The no load voltage is now sitting at 73.2 v. I never used to think in terms of miles per volt, but that seems just as valid as ah. Based on this ride I was getting 2.92 miles per volt. When I started out my battery was at 83.4 v. Assuming running the battery down to 64v, which I've done a few times, that would be 56.6 miles range. Riding like this before, I think my range would have been a little less than 50 miles, so if anything it's doing better now with more acceleration at the same time. There might really be something to this efficiency thing.
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
More riding impressions. Off the line acceleration doesn't blow me away. It's better than before, but the difference isn't as noticeable as other speeds. OTOH mid range, and higher end power is phenomenal compared to before. I might have a higher opinion of the off the line power if the rest of the range wasn't so frickin awesome. Riding in traffic it's a different animal, it rips. I had been riding around with the shock pretty soft, but that's not working now. I had to jack some more preload in the shock to compensate for the faster acceleration in turns. I also adjusted the throttle speed from 4 to 3. It responds really fast now,and feels about right to me. It's always quiet, but it's quieter now. A lot of times when you soup up your bike you end up with a faster bike, that's not as nice to ride as it was. I'm happy to report that doesn't seem to be the case this time. It feels very familiar to me, except stronger is all. It's still very Stealth like. It's going to be very easy to get used to.
I really need to thank everyone here that helped me with this project. Everyone offered good advise,and I apperciate you.
I really need to thank everyone here that helped me with this project. Everyone offered good advise,and I apperciate you.
Allex
100 MW
Nice work TV! I bet you dont use the full potential of this controller? I mean the settings may be a tad concervative now?
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
Allex said:
This is how I have it set. I'm hoping I have all the regen turned off. Please feel free to make suggestions.
