Rix
100 TW
Duplicate post.
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E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners
- Thread starter voicecoils
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Kepler
10 MW
All problems are solvable. Don't worry, the same thing happed to me. I was so pissed off when the nut rounded off. And of course it happened just as I was packing up to put the bike in the back of a car for a group ride on some trails.
So here is what you need to and it may require you to buy some tools.
Step 1: Drill out the damaged hex section of the lock nut with a 11.5mm drill, or what ever size just cleans up the hole. Don't go too deep, about 1/2"
Step 2: using a 12 mm plug tap, tap a thread into the hole you have just drilled.
Step 3: get a 12mm hardened hex bolt and screw it into the tapped hole.
Step 4: Apply just a bit of heat, not enough to damage the paint. A paint stripping heat gun is good for this.
Step 5: Give the end of the bolt a few light to firm taps with a hammer. As long as the bolt you have screwed in has bottomed out, it should transfer the energy to the seize lock not and help break it free.
Step 6: Now just continue to tighten up the hex bolt into the damaged locking nut. The lock nut should now screw out.
To reassemble, trim back the hex bolt leaving about 1/2" of thread. loctite the bolt into the locknut and let it set. This will allow you to still use the lock nut.
If you don't have the tools for this, take the bike to an engineering shop with a copy of what I written and they will sort it out for you.
This worked perfectly on my bike. Hopefull it will do the same for you.
So here is what you need to and it may require you to buy some tools.
Step 1: Drill out the damaged hex section of the lock nut with a 11.5mm drill, or what ever size just cleans up the hole. Don't go too deep, about 1/2"
Step 2: using a 12 mm plug tap, tap a thread into the hole you have just drilled.
Step 3: get a 12mm hardened hex bolt and screw it into the tapped hole.
Step 4: Apply just a bit of heat, not enough to damage the paint. A paint stripping heat gun is good for this.
Step 5: Give the end of the bolt a few light to firm taps with a hammer. As long as the bolt you have screwed in has bottomed out, it should transfer the energy to the seize lock not and help break it free.
Step 6: Now just continue to tighten up the hex bolt into the damaged locking nut. The lock nut should now screw out.
To reassemble, trim back the hex bolt leaving about 1/2" of thread. loctite the bolt into the locknut and let it set. This will allow you to still use the lock nut.
If you don't have the tools for this, take the bike to an engineering shop with a copy of what I written and they will sort it out for you.
This worked perfectly on my bike. Hopefull it will do the same for you.
fsmuggen
100 W
- Joined
- Jan 7, 2014
- Messages
- 143
have some pics from my last upgrade on my fighter.
I now run the tc100 with 22cell pack and 80a controller from greentime. Crystalyte controller did't like the tc100.. The wires on the greentime controller was a bit short, spent some time to extend them and make it look professional.
Does anyone know where I can get better brakes to the bike thinking og gatorbrakes ga8 but I'm not shure if that's overkill. Feel my mt2 is a bit girly at this stage.
I now run the tc100 with 22cell pack and 80a controller from greentime. Crystalyte controller did't like the tc100.. The wires on the greentime controller was a bit short, spent some time to extend them and make it look professional.
Does anyone know where I can get better brakes to the bike thinking og gatorbrakes ga8 but I'm not shure if that's overkill. Feel my mt2 is a bit girly at this stage.
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
When I'm panic stopping on the street I have a hard time keeping my MT2s from locking up. Mine feel super strong.
Allex
100 MW
Actually the MT2 are very good brakes.
I tossed mine for Hope V4, but not quite sure if they feel more powerful yet...
The best upgrade I did on my bike was the forks. But You have crazy bobs so you probably a street boy.
I tossed mine for Hope V4, but not quite sure if they feel more powerful yet...
The best upgrade I did on my bike was the forks. But You have crazy bobs so you probably a street boy.
fsmuggen
100 W
- Joined
- Jan 7, 2014
- Messages
- 143
The MT2 is good yes, but I notice big differece on braking now, compeard to with the stock setup. But the speed might be a bit higher too though..
Street boy..? I gues you must be one of those "mud soil boys" with the knoby tires Allex.
Fork Is not a issue yet, but I lube it up quite often just to make shure I can get it off without using a hammer or a drill. I'm not going to have problems pulling off the axelbolt and stuff like that in the future..
Street boy..? I gues you must be one of those "mud soil boys" with the knoby tires Allex.
Fork Is not a issue yet, but I lube it up quite often just to make shure I can get it off without using a hammer or a drill. I'm not going to have problems pulling off the axelbolt and stuff like that in the future..
MexicanBatman
10 W
- Joined
- Jul 26, 2013
- Messages
- 98
The magura are better than the gator brake that's why they use them now
Formula make the most powerful bicycle disc brake but the particular model costs $$$$$
Formula make the most powerful bicycle disc brake but the particular model costs $$$$$
Rix
100 TW
fsmuggen said:
The 8 Pot Gatorbrakes are good. My 6 pot stops my Bomber fast running the Hayes V9 224mm Rotor up front. IMO If your brakes are powerful enough to either lock up and skid your rear wheel, and stop your front so quickly that it could toss you over the bars, then they are good enough. The only reason I would not go with Gators is not very many places sell pads for them. I can't find a state side place to buy them. Stealth stocks them and because of their size, shipping isn't bad, so I am good unless that changes. Damn running 92volts @ 80 Phase amps on a TC100, thats just plain wicked!
So, whats the top speed?Rick
Rodney64
100 kW
Stealth_Rider said:
Fair enough Jim. Good that they gave you a reason and sending you a new frame.
Hyena
10 GW
That must be stupid fast! What top speed are you seeing? Must be around 105km/hr ?fsmuggen said:
I ran a tad more power through my batshit motor and had it up to 100km/hr but it was just too fast. Fun and good for high speed street use if you happen to live in costa rica but too inefficient for lower speeds/regular offroading. And I agree, at these speeds bicycle spec brakes of just about any denomination aren't much chop.
damancalldan
10 mW
Daaammmnnn!!! These tires are getting bald!!!
What do you all recommend for the Bomber? Mix of off and on road
Love ya xo
What do you all recommend for the Bomber? Mix of off and on road
Love ya xo
Rix
100 TW
damancalldan said:
Felt Racing Bermaster 3.00x24 is a decent all around tire, does everything good, nothing great.
Rick
fsmuggen
100 W
- Joined
- Jan 7, 2014
- Messages
- 143
I Think I have to do a brake upgrade in the future. Brakepads is no problem I think, I can get hold of them cheap on ebay.
Topspeed so far on flat ground 85-90kph on 50A. Controller can take more, but for my pack i think that is on the topshelf for safe discharge... Fast enough though. Probably will be even faster when or if I change the pack sometime in the furture.
Topspeed so far on flat ground 85-90kph on 50A. Controller can take more, but for my pack i think that is on the topshelf for safe discharge... Fast enough though. Probably will be even faster when or if I change the pack sometime in the furture.
arcticfly
100 W
Great advice Kepler, thank you!
Hyena
10 GW
Oh good, no one has knocked me off my fighter top spot yet
Sounds like the current is holding you back, I was running 100A in mine and fast wind motors are definitely thirsty buggers.
What sort of pack are you running that only takes a 50A discharge ? You running 3C li-ion or something ?
Sounds like the current is holding you back, I was running 100A in mine and fast wind motors are definitely thirsty buggers.
What sort of pack are you running that only takes a 50A discharge ? You running 3C li-ion or something ?
arcticfly
100 W
Next "problem"
I need black spokes for my mc wheel build. I have tried prowheel and some other spoke manufacturers, but they only have chrome or stainless colour. Any Ideas where I can get 128mm 10g BLACK spokes?
Cheers
Alex
I need black spokes for my mc wheel build. I have tried prowheel and some other spoke manufacturers, but they only have chrome or stainless colour. Any Ideas where I can get 128mm 10g BLACK spokes?
Cheers
Alex
Rix
100 TW
May have to paint them yourself, I haven't found any black MC spokes in my searches either.
RIck
RIck
MexicanBatman
10 W
- Joined
- Jul 26, 2013
- Messages
- 98
When I had my wheels done, my spokes were to be black chromed, basically look like the stock stealth black spokes
But the monkey who built my wheels forgot.... :x
Powder coat, anodize, paint them... Can't be too hard
I might colour mine in with a sharpie
But the monkey who built my wheels forgot.... :x
Powder coat, anodize, paint them... Can't be too hard
I might colour mine in with a sharpie
- Joined
- Feb 15, 2013
- Messages
- 1,903
http://www.spokecovers.com
[youtube]O9MOieneuwE[/youtube]
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BLACK-SPOKE...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cdc6534a1&vxp=mtr
[youtube]O9MOieneuwE[/youtube]
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BLACK-SPOKE...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cdc6534a1&vxp=mtr
arcticfly said:
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
Those spoke covers are cool, and make the spokes look beefy.
arcticfly
100 W
You saved the day efMX!!!
Thank you!
Thank you!
arcticfly
100 W
Not sure paint would work so good on stainless spokes. Plastisip maybe
Allex
100 MW
I would say no to those spoke hoses, looks like kid thing to me.
Home alone today so I prepared two tubes of super lube, hehe.
Thought I would follow up on this, my bike has about 2000km on it by now:
Remove the top screw(s)
I used regular Motor Oil 5W40 to clean out the old grease, did not have any WD40 as Rix Suggested. Vboxx manual says to use Motor Oil(Add 50-100ml of thin low viscosity gear oil). So I think I will be fine.
Pedal. pedal, pedal about 5 minutes. Give the gearbox a good run for a few minutes shifting up and down through all of the gears
Release the bottom screw and drain that dirty oil out.
View attachment 2
I filled each hole with aprox 45ml, did not have anymore Lube.
Inject the grease into the Vboxx and keep the cranks turning as well as shift up and down through the gears until they're all coated
Clean everything and screw all the screws back.
Pretty easy, fellow Stealthers!
Home alone today so I prepared two tubes of super lube, hehe.
Thought I would follow up on this, my bike has about 2000km on it by now:
I removed the front sprocket just so I could pedal around easily (without lifting the bike) through all gears when changing grease.Rix said:
Remove the top screw(s)
I used regular Motor Oil 5W40 to clean out the old grease, did not have any WD40 as Rix Suggested. Vboxx manual says to use Motor Oil(Add 50-100ml of thin low viscosity gear oil). So I think I will be fine.
Pedal. pedal, pedal about 5 minutes. Give the gearbox a good run for a few minutes shifting up and down through all of the gears
Release the bottom screw and drain that dirty oil out.
View attachment 2
I filled each hole with aprox 45ml, did not have anymore Lube.
Inject the grease into the Vboxx and keep the cranks turning as well as shift up and down through the gears until they're all coated
Clean everything and screw all the screws back.
Pretty easy, fellow Stealthers!
Attachments
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
Looks pretty easy. I'm going to do that to my bike pretty soon.
