E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

ccowell said:
I just got my Bomber delivered, but the crate didn't have a charger in it. Is it shipped separately, is it supposed to come with one?
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Sometimes its faster for Stealth to ship the battery and charger directly to you from the supplier Vs having the supplier send the components to Stealth, and then from Stealth to you. Since you noted that it shipped separately, that tells me its probably on its way and wasn't an oversight of any sort. I think you mentioned once before, but, if you did, I forgot, what color did you get?

Rick
 
Cowardlyduck said:
[
Ahem...I'm on my 4th motor, but not all of them burned.

First motor (HS3548) burned up running as stock on a 40C day in soft sand.
http:// Second motor (HS3548) I acc... temp epoxy were considerably darker. Rick
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Yeah Rick you are correct, heat quench time frame is very important to have in mind. So Sell temp and actual motor temp is totally two different numbers by far.
 
There was a time when British bikes had drum brakes that had air scoops that you could open and close. Seems like it would be pretty easy to make a motor cover with some kind of scoops on the side that could be opened, or closed when needed.

In most cases scoops probably wouldn't even be needed. One idea that comes to mind is, I've seen pictures of covers where people drilled holes for ventilation. What about 2 ventilated covers, one on top of the other, where you could spin the outer cover a few degrees to open and close the vent holes as needed?
 
Rix said:
is some of that darkness coming from road dust via the vents, or is your stator just smoked?
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It's a combination of dust and some protective paint. I spray painted the stator some with high temp silicone based spray paint to help protect it.
Glad I did! As you can see, dust/dirt built up quite a bit inside. I think this build up of dust/dirt may have thermally insulating the stator and contributed to causing the short.

Cheers
 
Theodore Voltaire said:
There was a time when British bikes had drum brakes that had air scoops that you could open and close. Seems like it would be pretty easy to make a motor cover with some kind of scoops on the side that could be opened, or closed when needed.

In most cases scoops probably wouldn't even be needed. One idea that comes to mind is, I've seen pictures of covers where people drilled holes for ventilation. What about 2 ventilated covers, one on top of the other, where you could spin the outer cover a few degrees to open and close the vent holes as needed?
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I am an advocate for venting hubs. Doesn't need to be extreme either, just 8 1/2" (12.52mm) holes on each side of the hub has proven to be very effective. I will post a pic of my vented hub. I thinks the venting works better for letting heat escape more so than the wind passing through the holes. This is very noticeable after a gnarly climb and stopping as the heat quench from the hub being stationary doesn't build up because the heat escapes. It funny because when I finish a ride and park the bike, I can hold my hand above the top of the motor near the flange and feel the hot air coming out the vent holes.

Rick
 
Cowardlyduck said:
Rix said:
is some of that darkness coming from road dust via the vents, or is your stator just smoked?
Click to expand...
It's a combination of dust and some protective paint. I spray painted the stator some with high temp silicone based spray paint to help protect it.
Glad I did! As you can see, dust/dirt built up quite a bit inside. I think this build up of dust/dirt may have thermally insulating the stator and contributed to causing the short.

Cheers
Click to expand...

Periodically I blow out the dust build up through one of my vent holes with my air compressor, it does do a great job at keeping dust build up to a minimum. During the dry summers here, our dirt turns to super fine powder, same texture as powdered sugar, real light and fluffy dust. Gets into everything so my Harbor Freight special 40 gallon 135PSI air compressor comes in handy.

Rick
 
I found a great set of fenders for the Bomber today, made in Germany by SKS-Germany.com. "SHOCKBOARD" for the front and "X-TRA-DRY" for the rear, very easy to install. Now looking for the perfect side stand, found one from Quigley Motorsport in Australia. Expensive (AUS $495.00) but looks perfect.
 
I used fenders from rowdy on my fighter. I was first looking at the fenders from Quigley, but paying an arm and a half a leg to get it to my door on the other side of the globe was not somthing I wanted to do...
I bought a clamp on kickstand for motorbike.
 
Allex said:
Quigleys fenders are still the best. Using them. Would love to have their stand also, maybe if I win the lottery... :)
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Yah, Quigley makes some really nice aftermarket parts. That kickstand is a real work of art though. I almost bought it, then I got to thinking about how much I use a kickstand and the times I had to lay my bike down because there was not rock, bush or tree around. There wasn't a time. But still, thats the nicest piece of hardware I have seen yet.
 
DunkenKBliths said:
Quigley Motorsports is the best....

Had a new handlebars "Deity" and "Richey" seat post installed last week and loving it...and of course the new Quigley Kick stand....love it !!!

Photo's when I get a chance...

Dunk
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Yah Dunk, get those photos ASAP. Quit teasing us! :eek:
 
Can anyone tell me the sort/strength/Ampage of solar power I will need whilst boondocking to charge the Bombers? Thanks!
 
This kick stand from Moose Racing isn't as sexy looking, but it's very robust, and strong, and only cost 1/5 as much. It's made to fit a 2006 Honda CR80. Not a perfect fit out of the box, but it's not hard to fab the back half of the bracket to make it fit. I glued gasket material to the inside of the bracket to take up the extra space, and protect the paint on the swing arm.



 
Bexxer said:
Can anyone tell me the sort/strength of solar power I will need whilst boondocking to charge the Bombers? Thanks!
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Someone else looked into this a while back, and it was very doable, but if I remember correctly, it seemed like a lot of panels were needed and some what costly. You can find cheap Chinese 250watt solar panels for around 300 bucks each (not including shipping), but you need 3 of them for the Bombers charger, and two for the fighter. One 250watt panel could be used, I suppose, but you would be looking at around 6hr charge time if you battery was close to spent. I think it was determined to be more pratical to get a cheap 1100 watt generator and just run that for charging. I am going to get one of these power stroke generators which can be had for under 200 bucks, for camping. Runs for about 8 hours on 1 gallon of gas at 50%, which ironically my bombers charger draws around 600watts per hour when charging. 1 gallon of gas would be enough for 3 charge cycles. Food for thought.

Rick
 

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Thanks Rick, we have a gas powered generator (for the zombie apocalypse ;)) so I guess I'll be dusting it off. I figured the power needed might be a pricey way of doing it although if I use it a lot I will get my money back on a solar system maybe. I am also thinking of using it to run a small toy hauler. Food for thought for sure.
 
Bexxer said:
Thanks Rick, we have a gas powered generator (for the zombie apocalypse ;)) so I guess I'll be dusting it off. I figured the power needed might be a pricey way of doing it although if I use it a lot I will get my money back on a solar system maybe. I am also thinking of using it to run a small toy hauler. Food for thought for sure.
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You bet, I was searching for various solar panels, I saw a 300 watt folding solar panel kit from HPC cycles. They want 2300 bucks for the 300 watt model. You can get a 120 watt model for around 900 bucks. But like I said it would take a long time to charge your Bomber up.

Rick
 
Bear in mind with Solar charging that you're likely going to be charging an intermediate storage battery that is then used to drive an inverter for the Stealth Charger - the capacity of that storage battery can vary a bit between the Fighter and Bomber. For the Bomber, the rough rule of thumb is 150Ah capacity and a 1000w inverter minimum if I remember the discussion with Stealth correctly. The panels you choose to use will simply affect how quickly you can push a charge, or recharge, into that intermediate storage battery. Direct charging from solar cells to the stealth batteries is not recommended - you need to let the charger do its job properly, which is why you need the capacity.

Rix, the petrol generator you mentioned is one of the things that's been coming up in recent discussions I've had with caravan and motorhome camping association staff, who've noted there are moves to ban them in camping areas due to the incessant generator buzz when you get a bunch of campers using them at the same time. Not an issue when solo camping, but one to consider if you're in mixed company. It's one of the reasons I went solar, in addition to the PITA job I had draining and cleaning stale fuel from a barely used one to get it to run. Same reasons I gave up doing top end rebuilds on 4 strokes..I'd rather be riding whilst the sun gets my recharge battery topped up, ready to keep the fun going..
 
Yah, QR, I see your point, camp ground camping and a bunch of generators running would defeat the purspose of getting away from the noise of the city. Thats where the solar chaging options would be real handy. Something to consider for public camp ground camping.

Rick
 
soon we can recharge in 30 seconds

http://www.gizmag.com/nanodot-smartphone-battery-30-second-recharge/31467/

would signal the end of most all gas powered motors.
 
Paul_G said:
soon we can recharge in 30 seconds

http://www.gizmag.com/nanodot-smartphone-battery-30-second-recharge/31467/

would signal the end of most all gas powered motors.
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Yes, all we need is 1.21 jigawatts of juice and we be good to go.
 
For the people asking about charging a bike...from solar

I actually do this....but with Gel Acid batteries that charge during the day...so I inverter charge at night...and have been doing so for the last year...

You will need about 700W of panels to directly charge ..... at the "official charger" rate ... as they are 250W a panel these days...

3 panels should do it...not that transportable...but possible...

Dunk
 
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