E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

[proper159]

Stopped by the original bike shop where I got my Stealth. I needed the tires rotated since no one in town has any of the stock 24s Duro Rs. Did about 120 km total distance today with one charge in between. Tires are wearing down fast! Took a photo or some 24s that are on reserve for another customer, ever heard of these? I like the stock Duros tread pattern because it feels really smooth on the road and then engages pretty good when I hit the dirt. The guys at the bike shop had one tough time putting the tire back on. I honestly hope to god I don't get a flat while on a 50 km ride. [attachment=-1]uploadfromtaptalk1397268956118.jpg[/attachment][attachment=-1]uploadfromtaptalk1397268973734.jpg[/attachment][attachment=-1]uploadfromtaptalk1397269011695.jpg[/attachment][attachment=-1]uploadfromtaptalk1397269025813.jpg[/attachment] [attachment=-1]uploadfromtaptalk1397268834891.jpg[/attachment]

 

[Rix]

My dad really like the Kenda "JT" Nevegals. They have a little softer compound than the Razorbacks, but seem to wear well off and on road. I personally haven't tried them on the front or rear.

 

[proper159]

My dad really like the Kenda "JT" Nevegals. They have a little softer compound than the Razorbacks, but seem to wear well off and on road. I personally haven't tried them on the front or rear.

Thx for the input, are they loud when you go on the road? More resistance? I'm already pushing the range on the bomber...I.e. often getting to 18 ah and then I end up getting range anxiety.

 

[Theodore Voltaire]

I haven't tried those particular tires, but all the Kenda tires I've had were good tough tires.

Someone else told me they had a very hard time removing the stock tires from their Bomber. I was expecting them to at least be slightly difficult. After the fact I can't understand why anyone would have trouble removing them. I guess compared to a bicycle tire they're a little harder than most, but compared to any motorcycle tire they're easy as pie. You almost don't even need any tire levers. You definitely don't need any lube.

 

[arcticfly]

It's quite smooth Rick. Guess I have to contact Stealth again.

 

[Kepler]

Seems fairly likely you have a throttle problem. Have you disconnected the throttle from the controller yet? If the motor stops when the throttle is disconnected, then its fairly like likely the throttle has failed. I am sure this is the first thing Stealth is going to tell you to try.

 

[arcticfly]

Kepler, Yes the motor stops, when I disconnect the throttle. I have a magura throttle here somewhere, maybe I should try that.

 

[proper159]

When I used to mountain bike, getting through sections like this was no problem. Tried to hop it off to the left and the controller got in the way.[attachment=-1]uploadfromtaptalk1397310686999.jpg[/attachment]

 

[Rix]

Kepler, Yes the motor stops, when I disconnect the throttle. I have a magura throttle here somewhere, maybe I should try that.

Even though Stealth will replace your throttle under warranty with out any problems, that Magura is a very nice unit. I would go with that, and sounds like you have a great excuse to do so .

Rick

 

[Rix]

I haven't tried those particular tires, but all the Kenda tires I've had were good tough tires.

Someone else told me they had a very hard time removing the stock tires from their Bomber. I was expecting them to at least be slightly difficult. After the fact I can't understand why anyone would have trouble removing them. I guess compared to a bicycle tire they're a little harder than most, but compared to any motorcycle tire they're easy as pie. You almost don't even need any tire levers. You definitely don't need any lube.

Yes TV, even for the mighty SRT (streamer rockin twit) such as yourself :lol: , changing the biggest and thickest down hill tires on a MTB is a cake walk compared to MC. I just put Maxxis Desert IT 110/100x18 on the rear my dads dual sport 230F. What a pain in the ass. About as fun as washing my sack in the shower with a cheese grater. :? Changing this tire made my Bombers MC tires seem easy, which made the MTB tires I used to run really easy.

 

[Theodore Voltaire]

Yes TV, even for the mighty SRT (streamer rockin twit) such as yourself :lol: , changing the biggest and thickest down hill tires on a MTB is a cake walk compared to MC. I just put Maxxis Desert IT 110/100x18 on the rear my dads dual sport 230F. What a pain in the ass. About as fun as washing my sack in the shower with a cheese grater. :? Changing this tire made my Bombers MC tires seem easy, which made the MTB tires I used to run really easy.

If I say so myself, I'm good at changing tires. This comes from years of installing my own tires, because I was too poor to pay anyone else to do it. For difficult tires a 50/50 mix of dish washing soap and water works great as lube.

For tires with tubes, once the tube is installed in the tire with one side of the tire installed, fill the tube with air, and then remove the valve core, before installing the second side of the tire on the rim.

The biggest mistake most people make is they don't force the tire deep into the center well on the opposite side of the rim from where they're trying to lever it on.

And don't forget to slop a lot of lube on the tire.

I usually don't do any of this for bicycle tires. Usually you can practically install them with your hands.

 

[Theodore Voltaire]

When installing tires, cussing doesn't really help much, but it doesn't hurt either.

 

[Rix]

When installing tires, cussing doesn't really help much, but it doesn't hurt either.

If I say so myself, I'm good at changing tires. This comes from years of installing my own tires, because I was too poor to pay anyone else to do it. For difficult tires a 50/50 mix of dish washing soap and water works great as lube.

Yep, that's the way I have been doing it since the late 70s. I can honestly say though, I have never been quick with big rear knobby tires, and even though I have probably changed 150-200 rears out over the decades, its always been hard for me. Small front MC tires are a snap like the ones on the Bomber. Thank goodness the mc tires I am running are super tough for Ebike applications, I would hate to be carrying around a patch or spare tube, and three large tire irons with all of the other stuff I already carry to do trail side repair.

Rick

 

[proper159]

Well I'm learning about all of the nuances of high mileage rides. Yesterday I got my tires rotated and the mechanic was fine tuning the chain tension with the back screw which is parallel to the chain. It fell out on my second part of my ride today and the other one was loose. Glad I had a wrench with me. I assume this part is specific to Stealth or can I put another type screw in there?[attachment=-1]uploadfromtaptalk1397329446314.jpg[/attachment]

 

[Rix]

Well I'm learning about all of the nuances of high mileage rides. Yesterday I got my tires rotated and the mechanic was fine tuning the chain tension with the back screw which is parallel to the chain. It fell out on my second part of my ride today and the other one was loose. Glad I had a wrench with me. I assume this part is specific to Stealth or can I put another type screw in there?[attachment=-1]uploadfromtaptalk1397329446314.jpg[/attachment]

No your screw didn't fall off, your post broke with the nut attached. That post is welded onto the axle torque block. Get a hold of Stealth, they will send you a new one. I call it the "Axle Block Torque arm" but the ours friend down under just call it a torque arm. Tell Stealth that and they will know what you are talking about. Its fairly important piece of hardware. Because we are limited how tight we can tighten the axle nuts, the function of the torque block is critical for not allowing your axle to slide forward under acceleration in bumpy conditions, the chain keeps it from sliding backwards during braking.

Rick

 

[Paul_G]

Kepler, Yes the motor stops, when I disconnect the throttle. I have a magura throttle here somewhere, maybe I should try that.

Stealth bikes use to come with a Magura but were replaced under warranty due to the motor surging.

 

[Allex]

Dont know about maguras but 2013 models have this one:

BTW, came across this Crystalyte controller to, could probably works as a "Hot Up"
Battery voltage: 48-72V
Max voltage: 86V
Max current: 90Amp
Mosfets: 24 pcs
http://shop.crystalyte-europe.com/product.php?productid=16598&cat=272&page=1

 

[Rix]

Kepler, Yes the motor stops, when I disconnect the throttle. I have a magura throttle here somewhere, maybe I should try that.

Stealth bikes use to come with a Magura but were replaced under warranty due to the motor surging.

Paul, was the Magura not compatible with controller programming? I got a couple of different full twist throttles and a Magura on the way. But if it won't work properly, I can cancel the order and get a refund.

 

[proper159]

Well I'm learning about all of the nuances of high mileage rides. Yesterday I got my tires rotated and the mechanic was fine tuning the chain tension with the back screw which is parallel to the chain. It fell out on my second part of my ride today and the other one was loose. Glad I had a wrench with me. I assume this part is specific to Stealth or can I put another type screw in there?[attachment=-1]uploadfromtaptalk1397329446314.jpg[/attachment]

No your screw didn't fall off, your post broke with the nut attached. That post is welded onto the axle torque block. Get a hold of Stealth, they will send you a new one. I call it the "Axle Torque Block arm" but the ours friend down under just call it a torque arm. Tell Stealth that and they will know what you are talking about. Its fairly important piece of hardware. Because we are limited how tight we can tighten the axle nuts, the function of the torque block is critical for not allowing your axle to slide forward under acceleration in bumpy conditions, the chain keeps it from sliding backwards during braking.

Rick

Thanks Rix, I'll email them now. Thx.

 

[Paul_G]

Kepler, Yes the motor stops, when I disconnect the throttle. I have a magura throttle here somewhere, maybe I should try that.

Stealth bikes use to come with a Magura but were replaced under warranty due to the motor surging.

Paul, was the Magura not compatible with controller programming? I got a couple of different full twist throttles and a Magura on the way. But if it won't work properly, I can cancel the order and get a refund.

Cancel the order and check with Stealth...I think it needs a resistor somewhere in the wires going to the controller but it still surged when cruising.

 

[Rix]

Thanks Paul. Done.

Rick

 

[Theodore Voltaire]

I was out riding tonight, blasting down Spring Valley going about 40 to 45 mph. Right after leaving a light I swear to god Emmitt Smith drove up next to me in a Mercedes, and rolled his window down, and ask me about my bike. First he wanted to know what it was. I told him it was an electric bicycle, and he said, I thought so. Then I told him it was a stealth Bomber. After that we went our separate ways, but I could see him talking to, probably his wife riding in the passenger seat.

 

[Kepler]

Kepler, Yes the motor stops, when I disconnect the throttle. I have a magura throttle here somewhere, maybe I should try that.

Unless the bike was originally shipped with a Magura throttle, it won't work correctly.

As Paul mentioned, bikes with a Magura throttles have an extra resistor in the controller to deal with the different Magura voltage output .

A Hall throttle (standard throttle) has a 5V input and outputs a 1V signal at zero throttle and 4V at full throttle. Nearly all controllers are designed for this range of input.

A Magura is a resistive throttle and has a 5K pot inside working as a variable voltage divider to send the signal back to the controller.

Now what happens when you just plug a Magura straight into an unmodified controller, it will give you 0V at zero throttle and 5V at full throttle. The 0V at zero throttle might not be a problem except for making the throttle feel a little dead at the start. However the 5V at full throttle is a big problem as the controller will see this as a fault condition and cut the throttle out. Typically the threshold is about 4.5V for this to happen.

If you want to test the bike with a Magura throttle (presuming the controller is setup for a hall throttle), you can try putting a 1K or 1.2K resistor in series with the voltage out signal from the throttle.

Below is a typical throttle connection for an Infineon style controller. Note the Hall throttle and Pot throttle connection points.

 

[Tench]

I can confirm the throttle resistor issue, my Bomber came with a Magura throttle fitted, after having some issues with how it ran and changing each item in turn to find the faulty one it turned out to be the throttle, I switched it for a hall one and had to bypass the resistors, it then ran lovely!

 

[Rix]

Kepler, Yes the motor stops, when I disconnect the throttle. I have a magura throttle here somewhere, maybe I should try that.

Unless the bike was originally shipped with a Magura throttle, it won't work correctly.

As Paul mentioned, bikes with a Magura throttles have an extra resistor in the controller to deal with the different Magura voltage output .

A Hall throttle (standard throttle) has a 5V input and outputs a 1V signal at zero throttle and 4V at full throttle. Nearly all controllers are designed for this range of input.

A Magura is a resistive throttle and has a 5K pot inside working as a variable voltage divider to send the signal back to the controller.

Now what happens when you just plug a Magura straight into an unmodified controller, it will give you 0V at zero throttle and 5V at full throttle. The 0V at zero throttle might not be a problem except for making the throttle feel a little dead at the start. However the 5V at full throttle is a big problem as the controller will see this as a fault condition and cut the throttle out. Typically the threshold is about 4.5V for this to happen.

If you want to test the bike with a Magura throttle (presuming the controller is setup for a hall throttle), you can try putting a 1K or 1.2K resistor in series with the voltage out signal from the throttle.

Below is a typical throttle connection for an Infineon style controller. Note the Hall throttle and Pot throttle connection points.

Thanks John for explaining this in terms a simple minded fellow such as myself can understand. Damn, the more I learn, the less I know.

Rocl