zx6rj1 said:
Cool! I'm very impressed. If you had pedaled you would have easily kept up I reckon
eLation 200watt kit (Australia)
- Thread starter zx6rj1
- Start date
Cool! I'm very impressed. If you had pedaled you would have easily kept up I reckon
zx6rj1
1 W
lesspedal said:
Yes 8)
lesspedal
100 W
Looks like beach rd, pointing towards the cityzx6rj1 said:
Mark_A_W
100 kW
Parkdale, maybe Mentone.
Ok, I've got the kit, and I go about 200metres and the motor moves on the frame and then the chain falls off.
I rang Alan today and I've removed the rubber I had put between them. I re-aligned everything and rode again about 200m and bang same thing again. The only thing I can think of now is I'm not tightening the bolts enough. There is also a screw hole on the bottom of the frame that might be making the motor sit off the frame a bit but I'm not sure on that.
Help... any ideas?
I rang Alan today and I've removed the rubber I had put between them. I re-aligned everything and rode again about 200m and bang same thing again. The only thing I can think of now is I'm not tightening the bolts enough. There is also a screw hole on the bottom of the frame that might be making the motor sit off the frame a bit but I'm not sure on that.
Help... any ideas?
AussieJester
1 TW
erutangis said:
I think most first (and second...and third)timers underestimate the torque of these motors even the smaller ones I know i
am guilty of it on all 3 of my e-trikes/bikes. I would suggest drilling a hole through the mounting bracket and into the frame
tapping the hole and puting a bolt in it to prevent the mounts from moving on the frame. You will find this is the course of action alot have taken
to rectify this problem, waterbotle holes are often utilised for this purpose. If you haven't got a tap and die set a simple
stainless steel self tapper would suffice IMO. I would go as far as popping a couple in the lower bracket mount myself.
Once you have it lined up it will be trouble free, its getting them setup initially that is often troublesome.
Best of luck mate
KiM
lesspedal
100 W
Check your pm.erutangis said:Ok, I've got the kit, and I go about 200metres and the motor moves on the frame and then the chain falls off.
I rang Alan today and I've removed the rubber I had put between them. I re-aligned everything and rode again about 200m and bang same thing again. The only thing I can think of now is I'm not tightening the bolts enough. There is also a screw hole on the bottom of the frame that might be making the motor sit off the frame a bit but I'm not sure on that.
Help... any ideas?
Moti said:
I took the rubber out between the unit and the frame, tightened the bolts to 15 ft lbs, and lastly slid the motor over more inboard which helped the chain alignment.
I just took it out for a 15k run and it went well. On it's own the bike can do close to 30, and with a bit of pedalling 35k+ is easily achieved. Interestingly my average speed was still only 20k so it shows you how having to slow down all the time knocks your time around.
Thanks for that. I had a similar problem. I started the install again from scratch and it's fine now. I think I had it close but not quite.
I've installed it with a Shimano Nexus 7 speed internal hub - works fine. Though you do lose the ability to change gears while stationary by pedalling backwards. And I also had to put the controller on the left upside down as the right handlebar is already used by the gear twist shifter. Apart from that though - fantastic. Top speed (without trying too hard) 39kmh.
I've installed it with a Shimano Nexus 7 speed internal hub - works fine. Though you do lose the ability to change gears while stationary by pedalling backwards. And I also had to put the controller on the left upside down as the right handlebar is already used by the gear twist shifter. Apart from that though - fantastic. Top speed (without trying too hard) 39kmh.
heathyoung
100 kW
Have you tried a muffler clamp of the correct size behind it to stop it from creeping?
Help!
I had the chain jump off at the back wheel again today. I then had a bit of a Duh moment. I have a nexus rear hub, so chain tension is controlled solely by the use of an eccentric bottom bracket. To fix the chain tension at the back, you rotate the bracket which moves the bottom bracket forward. This means that when I tighten the tension at the back of the bike I will naturally loosen the tension on the chain for the elation unit. I actually think this has been my problem all along.
Due to the wobbly crank on the elation (apparently this is normal) this accentuates the problem with the chain tension at the back. The moment it gets a bit loose it essentially feeds the chain off the back. When you fix that on the ebb you then loosen the elation chain. Any more than a small adjustment and you have to move the whole elation unit.
My ebb is fully tight now and the chain is still fairly loose. I guess the only step from here is to remove a link from the chain which will mean the elation unit will have to be moved significantly down the frame, and then the whole process of moving it back up and re-aligning everything will start again.
I love the elation unit.. it really rocks. However I think that they are not suitable for bikes with EBB where the crank is constantly moving as part of regular maintenance. Any ideas? I don't think it's feasible for me to keep moving the elation unit up and down the frame as the chain wears.
For anyone that doesn't know what an EBB is...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bottom_bracket#Eccentric_bottom_brackets
I had the chain jump off at the back wheel again today. I then had a bit of a Duh moment. I have a nexus rear hub, so chain tension is controlled solely by the use of an eccentric bottom bracket. To fix the chain tension at the back, you rotate the bracket which moves the bottom bracket forward. This means that when I tighten the tension at the back of the bike I will naturally loosen the tension on the chain for the elation unit. I actually think this has been my problem all along.
Due to the wobbly crank on the elation (apparently this is normal) this accentuates the problem with the chain tension at the back. The moment it gets a bit loose it essentially feeds the chain off the back. When you fix that on the ebb you then loosen the elation chain. Any more than a small adjustment and you have to move the whole elation unit.
My ebb is fully tight now and the chain is still fairly loose. I guess the only step from here is to remove a link from the chain which will mean the elation unit will have to be moved significantly down the frame, and then the whole process of moving it back up and re-aligning everything will start again.
I love the elation unit.. it really rocks. However I think that they are not suitable for bikes with EBB where the crank is constantly moving as part of regular maintenance. Any ideas? I don't think it's feasible for me to keep moving the elation unit up and down the frame as the chain wears.
For anyone that doesn't know what an EBB is...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bottom_bracket#Eccentric_bottom_brackets
lesspedal
100 W
Not sure what you mean with" wobbly crank on elation, apparently this is normal", I have the older ratchet type fw and there is no wobble.erutangis said:
The later fw such as yours has a sprag clutch which is a huge improvement, any "wobble" in the crank will most likely have something to do with your bb/ebb, which is not part of the elation system.
The drive chain tension on the elation is ok from a few mill to about 10 or 15 mill, it is not critical as long as the drive sprocket is properly aligned with the driven chain ring.
lesspedal said:
The crank doesn't run true when put on the bottom bracket (brand new, in brand new bike). I sent it back and Alan said that it's normal and returned it. He said it's impossible to get all of the run out out. He did give me instructions on how to minimise it and it did help. Unfortunately though, because there is no chain tensioner at the back there is also no guide which makes things very critical. On a conventional bike this wouldn't have been a problem.
Sounds like the BB is not really suitable for the elation kit. Is it possible to replace it?
I also have a nexus 7 speed internal hub but the chain tension is adjusted by moving the back wheel.
The BB is a 'normal' Shimano one (although I have replaced the original BB with a new Shimano UN54 - but only because the original BB needed to be replaced, the elation cranks worked fine with the original BB)
The elation kit works fine with the nexus hub and a fixed/normal BB.
I also have a nexus 7 speed internal hub but the chain tension is adjusted by moving the back wheel.
The BB is a 'normal' Shimano one (although I have replaced the original BB with a new Shimano UN54 - but only because the original BB needed to be replaced, the elation cranks worked fine with the original BB)
The elation kit works fine with the nexus hub and a fixed/normal BB.
Yes my eLation works fine too, although my freewheel did come loose in the crank. Sent it back to Allan and was fixed and back within 5 days, great service.
I recon the simplest solution is change to a normal Bottom Bracket, get a longer chain and run it through a chain tensioner, either a bought one or salvaged from an old dérailleur.
I recon the simplest solution is change to a normal Bottom Bracket, get a longer chain and run it through a chain tensioner, either a bought one or salvaged from an old dérailleur.
I think I owe you all an update. I've returned the kit to Alan and we've sorted something out. I would like to thank Alan for being really great to deal with. Even when I had problems he was good and I would be happy to buy from him again.
I would also like to thank those on this forum who have helped. You've been great.
I don't think the EBB / alfine hub thing works with the elation kit personally. However apparently there are people out there who have got it to work, so it's probably just my installation of it. Perhaps if I was more committed to it and had more tinker time I could have gotten it to work in my install but alas I didn't have the time to persevere.
I've been riding into work ala-natural now which has been very hard! I haven't got any plans to buy another electric bike for now, but we may purchase a turnkey one to share with the wife at some point in the future.
I still love the electric bike concept and think it's a real winner. The elation kit rocks and I wish you all the best!
I would also like to thank those on this forum who have helped. You've been great.
I don't think the EBB / alfine hub thing works with the elation kit personally. However apparently there are people out there who have got it to work, so it's probably just my installation of it. Perhaps if I was more committed to it and had more tinker time I could have gotten it to work in my install but alas I didn't have the time to persevere.
I've been riding into work ala-natural now which has been very hard! I haven't got any plans to buy another electric bike for now, but we may purchase a turnkey one to share with the wife at some point in the future.
I still love the electric bike concept and think it's a real winner. The elation kit rocks and I wish you all the best!
zx6rj1
1 W
It's been a Year since I posted this review...
And the kit is still going strong 8). Very durable. I ride it nearly every day, I actually prefer it more than the motorbike which is gathering dust in the garage. I dropped the bike few times
hard enough to break the pedal, but the kit never needed any attention. Kudos !!!
There is no change of battery performance too. Very happy.
I also found that going to the bush with eBike is a real joy. I don't know why but at low gear, full battery power, gravel, mud etc. It FEELS really fast! I went places hard enough to displace my rear light yet the kit never seem to move.
Now... I'm going to Switzerland and taking this eBike there as primary transport (not the trip lol). Thought I might replace that broken pedal for aesthetics reason and got some cheapie at KMart. I thought it was a bit tight when installing it but no dramas... until the shipment company came and told me I had to take the pedal off. Then the problem started as when unscrewing it, it actually got tighter!! Due to my stupidity thread had been ruined
Emailed Allan today for replacement part and he gave be the best solution ever for that problem (Thanks Allan!)
I'll post some pics from sunny Europe :wink:
And the kit is still going strong 8). Very durable. I ride it nearly every day, I actually prefer it more than the motorbike which is gathering dust in the garage. I dropped the bike few times
hard enough to break the pedal, but the kit never needed any attention. Kudos !!!There is no change of battery performance too. Very happy.
I also found that going to the bush with eBike is a real joy. I don't know why but at low gear, full battery power, gravel, mud etc. It FEELS really fast! I went places hard enough to displace my rear light yet the kit never seem to move.
Now... I'm going to Switzerland and taking this eBike there as primary transport (not the trip lol). Thought I might replace that broken pedal for aesthetics reason and got some cheapie at KMart. I thought it was a bit tight when installing it but no dramas... until the shipment company came and told me I had to take the pedal off. Then the problem started as when unscrewing it, it actually got tighter!! Due to my stupidity thread had been ruined
Emailed Allan today for replacement part and he gave be the best solution ever for that problem (Thanks Allan!)
I'll post some pics from sunny Europe :wink:
lesspedal
100 W
Good to see you'r still going strong.
Best of luck in Europe 8) .
What was the magic solution to the stripped thread ?
Best of luck in Europe 8) .
What was the magic solution to the stripped thread ?
nitecheck
1 W
I week on. I have always been a hub fan due to there there low tech simplicity & sturdiness - but the geared kits have always been whispering - try me ....we have gears, we are efficent, we a ultra light .....we....more promises. Not that I am giving up my faithful hub racers - but I am now the proud owner of an 2nd hand Elation unit & am having some teething problems. The unit it self is practically new - but an earlier version - using a plastic idler rather than a cog. Need to up date this - the plastic idler is just plain noisy. Overall I'm very happy with the quality of the product. The crank unit for me - is the jewel in the crown for the kit & the primary reason for my purchase. To match my old crank setup of 26/38/48 & personal preference - I have swapped out the supplied chain wheels for some juicy XT cogs. Swap out was easy - 20 mins later you have a excellent rebuilt & upgraded crankset. I still have to look at the crank arms though - they are WAY over engineered for strength & can do with some lightening. I want a professional job done - so they will be off to a shop with a CNC cutter to trim & skelteton arms to reduce weight but retain strength. A super polish latter & these babies will be a great highlight on the bike.
The kit is fully installed & operational - but I've got some questions that I hope other elation owners can help with.
Ok - all the above was the good - now the not so good. Usual story with 2nd hand units - I got a discount on price with the disclaimer that battery cut''s in & out - the cost was still pricey - but much better than new. I thought it may have been a matter of breaking a battery pack - finding a dud cell or more. Resolderding and/or replacing & off we go. On opening the pack - Mnnnn not 18650's. The seller was up front - so I have no issue there - my problem is I can not figure out what's up. It's a 24v 8 gel cell (like Ping lifepo4 or a lipo) 10AH - 2007 built battery with BMS - alloy cased frame mount model. I'm guessing it's LiMns02 due to light weight, year of manufature & a voltage of 28.7v fully charged. 8 cells each appear around 3.6v so either lifepo4 or aged limnso2 (though it is difficult to identify wiring & am relying on reading through lot of hot glue). Voltage checked at 3 pin output (2 neg 1 postitive pin). Neg1/positive 13.6v & 28.7v with Neg 2/positive. Without load (bike upside down) I have instant power from throttle & it appears it could run all day at high speed. However when I ride the bike - LVC's appear very quickly (within 300 mtrs) & speed is way down on what on would be expect on a 200w/36v hub motor - about a 3rd or less.
There is a test/ON button on the alloy case. When not connected to the motor 3 of 4 leds light up bright red. Right to left. When the motor is connected far left & right LED's go out leaving the 2 centre LED lit....not at all sure what to make of this. There was a remote motion sensitive alarm & siren attached to the motor - but this had a short & was cooking the plastic housing - fire hazard & has been removed. I doubt the motor needs cooling at this stage - but I'm sure I have some alloy curved heat sinks about doing nothing - so might as well place these where the alarm was.
Q1. Any help with the battery issue would be appreciated - I kind leaning towards an upgrade to headways.
Q2 What do the LED's mean & is what my pack doing significant?
Q3 Whats the top speed I can expect on flat ground 24v/10ah 40t primary with rear cog being
Q4 This kit has a plastic idler & overall the unit is very noisy compared to a hub motor - a. is this normal & 2. is a toothed cog quieter (with idler lifted the kit is "quite" quiet) Thinking about doing away the tensioner - but would prefer to keep a quite one.
Q5. Is any one overvolting the motor? If so what voltage & are any mods required.
Q6. Does any one know where you get a 300w or 500w motors - cylcone a selling kits very cheaply - but I am only really after an additional motor
Sorry - lots of info & questions - hopefully this is helpful in identifying what needs to be done - to get TIGRR2 up & running
Thanks in advance
Nitecheck
I have always been a hub fan due to there there low tech simplicity & sturdiness - but the geared kits have always been whispering - try me ....we have gears, we are efficent, we a ultra light .....we....more promises. Not that I am giving up my faithful hub racers - but I am now the proud owner of an 2nd hand Elation unit & am having some teething problems. The unit it self is practically new - but an earlier version - using a plastic idler rather than a cog. Need to up date this - the plastic idler is just plain noisy. Overall I'm very happy with the quality of the product. The crank unit for me - is the jewel in the crown for the kit & the primary reason for my purchase. To match my old crank setup of 26/38/48 & personal preference - I have swapped out the supplied chain wheels for some juicy XT cogs. Swap out was easy - 20 mins later you have a excellent rebuilt & upgraded crankset. I still have to look at the crank arms though - they are WAY over engineered for strength & can do with some lightening. I want a professional job done - so they will be off to a shop with a CNC cutter to trim & skelteton arms to reduce weight but retain strength. A super polish latter & these babies will be a great highlight on the bike.The kit is fully installed & operational - but I've got some questions that I hope other elation owners can help with.
Ok - all the above was the good - now the not so good. Usual story with 2nd hand units - I got a discount on price with the disclaimer that battery cut''s in & out - the cost was still pricey - but much better than new. I thought it may have been a matter of breaking a battery pack - finding a dud cell or more. Resolderding and/or replacing & off we go. On opening the pack - Mnnnn not 18650's. The seller was up front - so I have no issue there - my problem is I can not figure out what's up. It's a 24v 8 gel cell (like Ping lifepo4 or a lipo) 10AH - 2007 built battery with BMS - alloy cased frame mount model. I'm guessing it's LiMns02 due to light weight, year of manufature & a voltage of 28.7v fully charged. 8 cells each appear around 3.6v so either lifepo4 or aged limnso2 (though it is difficult to identify wiring & am relying on reading through lot of hot glue). Voltage checked at 3 pin output (2 neg 1 postitive pin). Neg1/positive 13.6v & 28.7v with Neg 2/positive. Without load (bike upside down) I have instant power from throttle & it appears it could run all day at high speed. However when I ride the bike - LVC's appear very quickly (within 300 mtrs) & speed is way down on what on would be expect on a 200w/36v hub motor - about a 3rd or less.
There is a test/ON button on the alloy case. When not connected to the motor 3 of 4 leds light up bright red. Right to left. When the motor is connected far left & right LED's go out leaving the 2 centre LED lit....not at all sure what to make of this. There was a remote motion sensitive alarm & siren attached to the motor - but this had a short & was cooking the plastic housing - fire hazard & has been removed. I doubt the motor needs cooling at this stage - but I'm sure I have some alloy curved heat sinks about doing nothing - so might as well place these where the alarm was.
Q1. Any help with the battery issue would be appreciated - I kind leaning towards an upgrade to headways.
Q2 What do the LED's mean & is what my pack doing significant?
Q3 Whats the top speed I can expect on flat ground 24v/10ah 40t primary with rear cog being
Q4 This kit has a plastic idler & overall the unit is very noisy compared to a hub motor - a. is this normal & 2. is a toothed cog quieter (with idler lifted the kit is "quite" quiet) Thinking about doing away the tensioner - but would prefer to keep a quite one.
Q5. Is any one overvolting the motor? If so what voltage & are any mods required.
Q6. Does any one know where you get a 300w or 500w motors - cylcone a selling kits very cheaply - but I am only really after an additional motor
Sorry - lots of info & questions - hopefully this is helpful in identifying what needs to be done - to get TIGRR2 up & running
Thanks in advance
Nitecheck
nitecheck
1 W
I week on. I have always been a hub fan due to there there low tech simplicity & sturdiness - but the geared kits have always been whispering - try me ....we have gears, we are efficent, we a ultra light .....we....more promises. Not that I am giving up my faithful hub racers - but I am now the proud owner of an 2nd hand Elation unit & am having some teething problems. The unit it self is practically new - but an earlier version - using a plastic idler rather than a cog. Need to up date this - the plastic idler is just plain noisy. Overall I'm very happy with the quality of the product. The crank unit for me - is the jewel in the crown for the kit & the primary reason for my purchase. To match my old crank setup of 26/38/48 & personal preference - I have swapped out the supplied chain wheels for some juicy XT cogs. Swap out was easy - 20 mins later you have a excellent rebuilt & upgraded crankset. I still have to look at the crank arms though - they are WAY over engineered for strength & can do with some lightening. I want a professional job done - so they will be off to a shop with a CNC cutter to trim & skelteton arms to reduce weight but retain strength. A super polish latter & these babies will be a great highlight on the bike.
The kit is fully installed & operational - but I've got some questions that I hope other elation owners can help with.
Ok - all the above was the good - now the not so good. Usual story with 2nd hand units - I got a discount on price with the disclaimer that battery cut''s in & out - the cost was still pricey - but much better than new. I thought it may have been a matter of breaking a battery pack - finding a dud cell or more. Resolderding and/or replacing & off we go. On opening the pack - Mnnnn not 18650's. The seller was up front - so I have no issue there - my problem is I can not figure out what's up. It's a 24v 8 gel cell (like Ping lifepo4 or a lipo) 10AH - 2007 built battery with BMS - alloy cased frame mount model. I'm guessing it's LiMns02 due to light weight, year of manufature & a voltage of 28.7v fully charged. 8 cells each appear around 3.6v so either lifepo4 or aged limnso2 (though it is difficult to identify wiring & am relying on reading through lot of hot glue). Voltage checked at 3 pin output (2 neg 1 postitive pin). Neg1/positive 13.6v & 28.7v with Neg 2/positive. Without load (bike upside down) I have instant power from throttle & it appears it could run all day at high speed. However when I ride the bike - LVC's appear very quickly (within 300 mtrs) & speed is way down on what on would be expect on a 200w/36v hub motor - about a 3rd or less.
There is a test/ON button on the alloy case. When not connected to the motor 3 of 4 leds light up bright red. Right to left. When the motor is connected far left & right LED's go out leaving the 2 centre LED lit....not at all sure what to make of this. There was a remote motion sensitive alarm & siren attached to the motor - but this had a short & was cooking the plastic housing - fire hazard & has been removed. I doubt the motor needs cooling at this stage - but I'm sure I have some alloy curved heat sinks about doing nothing - so might as well place these where the alarm was.
Q1. Any help with the battery issue would be appreciated - I kind leaning towards an upgrade to headways.
Q2 What do the LED's mean & is what my pack doing significant?
Q3 Whats the top speed I can expect on flat ground 24v/10ah 40t primary with rear cog being a 12t
Q4 This kit has a plastic idler & overall the unit is very noisy compared to a hub motor - a. is this normal & 2. is a toothed cog quieter (with idler lifted the kit is "quite" quiet) Thinking about doing away the tensioner - but would prefer to keep a quite one.
Q5. Is any one overvolting the motor? If so what voltage & are any mods required.
Q6. Does any one know where you get a 300w or 500w motors - cylcone a selling kits very cheaply - but I am only really after an additional motor
Sorry - lots of info & questions - hopefully this is helpful in identifying what needs to be done - to get TIGRR2 up & running
Thanks in advance
Nitecheck
I have always been a hub fan due to there there low tech simplicity & sturdiness - but the geared kits have always been whispering - try me ....we have gears, we are efficent, we a ultra light .....we....more promises. Not that I am giving up my faithful hub racers - but I am now the proud owner of an 2nd hand Elation unit & am having some teething problems. The unit it self is practically new - but an earlier version - using a plastic idler rather than a cog. Need to up date this - the plastic idler is just plain noisy. Overall I'm very happy with the quality of the product. The crank unit for me - is the jewel in the crown for the kit & the primary reason for my purchase. To match my old crank setup of 26/38/48 & personal preference - I have swapped out the supplied chain wheels for some juicy XT cogs. Swap out was easy - 20 mins later you have a excellent rebuilt & upgraded crankset. I still have to look at the crank arms though - they are WAY over engineered for strength & can do with some lightening. I want a professional job done - so they will be off to a shop with a CNC cutter to trim & skelteton arms to reduce weight but retain strength. A super polish latter & these babies will be a great highlight on the bike.The kit is fully installed & operational - but I've got some questions that I hope other elation owners can help with.
Ok - all the above was the good - now the not so good. Usual story with 2nd hand units - I got a discount on price with the disclaimer that battery cut''s in & out - the cost was still pricey - but much better than new. I thought it may have been a matter of breaking a battery pack - finding a dud cell or more. Resolderding and/or replacing & off we go. On opening the pack - Mnnnn not 18650's. The seller was up front - so I have no issue there - my problem is I can not figure out what's up. It's a 24v 8 gel cell (like Ping lifepo4 or a lipo) 10AH - 2007 built battery with BMS - alloy cased frame mount model. I'm guessing it's LiMns02 due to light weight, year of manufature & a voltage of 28.7v fully charged. 8 cells each appear around 3.6v so either lifepo4 or aged limnso2 (though it is difficult to identify wiring & am relying on reading through lot of hot glue). Voltage checked at 3 pin output (2 neg 1 postitive pin). Neg1/positive 13.6v & 28.7v with Neg 2/positive. Without load (bike upside down) I have instant power from throttle & it appears it could run all day at high speed. However when I ride the bike - LVC's appear very quickly (within 300 mtrs) & speed is way down on what on would be expect on a 200w/36v hub motor - about a 3rd or less.
There is a test/ON button on the alloy case. When not connected to the motor 3 of 4 leds light up bright red. Right to left. When the motor is connected far left & right LED's go out leaving the 2 centre LED lit....not at all sure what to make of this. There was a remote motion sensitive alarm & siren attached to the motor - but this had a short & was cooking the plastic housing - fire hazard & has been removed. I doubt the motor needs cooling at this stage - but I'm sure I have some alloy curved heat sinks about doing nothing - so might as well place these where the alarm was.
Q1. Any help with the battery issue would be appreciated - I kind leaning towards an upgrade to headways.
Q2 What do the LED's mean & is what my pack doing significant?
Q3 Whats the top speed I can expect on flat ground 24v/10ah 40t primary with rear cog being a 12t
Q4 This kit has a plastic idler & overall the unit is very noisy compared to a hub motor - a. is this normal & 2. is a toothed cog quieter (with idler lifted the kit is "quite" quiet) Thinking about doing away the tensioner - but would prefer to keep a quite one.
Q5. Is any one overvolting the motor? If so what voltage & are any mods required.
Q6. Does any one know where you get a 300w or 500w motors - cylcone a selling kits very cheaply - but I am only really after an additional motor
Sorry - lots of info & questions - hopefully this is helpful in identifying what needs to be done - to get TIGRR2 up & running
Thanks in advance
Nitecheck
lesspedal
100 W
Can't answer all your questions, but,
As far as i am aware elation kits were early v1 nimh batts, v2 lifepo4, yours sound like lifepo4.
3.6 volts per cell is about right= 28.8 v.
Most likely you are pulling to many amps causing lvc to cut power, caused by using too high a gear, the best way is to watch led on the throttle, keeping it green, too high a load rapidly causes voltage sag, yellow led will light, you need to change down, throttle back or pedal more or do all three or led will go red rapidly followed by lvc. [ yellow led will come on at about 22.5v ]
With these type of systems, one needs to get the hang of riding it, using a combination of power and selecting the correct gear.
Leds on top of case, leave on charger overnight and then check them, ther'e not really much use for anything.
Tension idler is a normal idler off any rear gear derailler.
Most noise comes from metal planetry gears [ unlike geared hub motors which use nylon type gears to keep noise down, until they melt ].
Some have tried to overvolt these 24v motors but have had bad luck with it.
Same headline brand motor as cyclone but some cyclone ones are ccw . elation are all cw.
As far as i am aware elation kits were early v1 nimh batts, v2 lifepo4, yours sound like lifepo4.
3.6 volts per cell is about right= 28.8 v.
Most likely you are pulling to many amps causing lvc to cut power, caused by using too high a gear, the best way is to watch led on the throttle, keeping it green, too high a load rapidly causes voltage sag, yellow led will light, you need to change down, throttle back or pedal more or do all three or led will go red rapidly followed by lvc. [ yellow led will come on at about 22.5v ]
With these type of systems, one needs to get the hang of riding it, using a combination of power and selecting the correct gear.
Leds on top of case, leave on charger overnight and then check them, ther'e not really much use for anything.
Tension idler is a normal idler off any rear gear derailler.
Most noise comes from metal planetry gears [ unlike geared hub motors which use nylon type gears to keep noise down, until they melt ].
Some have tried to overvolt these 24v motors but have had bad luck with it.
Same headline brand motor as cyclone but some cyclone ones are ccw . elation are all cw.
