Giant NRS/Mac hub/48v Headway now A123 build

[AussieJester]

(or you could get a RC drive like that nong Kim is about to suggest lol)

Exactly my dress wearing buddy I'm confident Matt
will hate or break this motor in short time and will use those sweet A123s to power a rc setup on his Giant Will we see another build the likes of Timmas!!! heres hoping so

KiM

 

[Mark_A_W]

I love my MAC.

55kmh.

It's been reliable since I dropped the current, and moved to BMC gears.


It's performance is fantastic. It's the reliability that's the issue.


DD motors feel sluggish compared to geared motors....unless you run 100A...but then you have no range.


My MAC at 60v 30A was faster/pulled harder than a 408 at 60v 35A, and I'd have 15kgs on the 408 rider.


The concept of the geared motor is right, it just needs better engineering.


And I still haven't really seen the ultimate commuting and offroad RC setup. They are all too exposed or noisy. Motors need to be sealed. Even a chain and derailleur require constant maintenance/cleaning...it's annoying.

 

[AussieJester]

Not going to get this thread off track 'debating' the pros and cons of the rc and frock with Mark...again...other than to say Matt.P has built more than a few bikes completely from scratch has outstanding design and fabrication skills if anyone can make an rc setup work well and look brilliant its Matt, unlike some here that appear to get confused at which end to pick up a screwdriver or wrench and resort to frock motors as everything else just confuses them. I'm 100% certain you will see a rc setup from Matt sooner rather than later, i have seen the look on his face when hes gotten off riding my bike, this hub motor business is just a phase he's going through nothing more, like a bout of crabs after a poor decision the night before at the Hotel when drunk (thats never happened to me it was...uhm... Luke ) Matt to will get over it... And when he does you fellas moaning and winging about noise and chains and what ever the frock else you F.A.G.S whine like women about will still be stuck with poorly made, overheating, old technology resulting in overweight bikes duct taped from ass-hole to breakfeast with 60-100v or more of batteries to make them perform and STILL you will have inferior performance & handling due to poor weight displacement. Your all stuck in the past and happy to settle for mediocrity rather than push the envelope and advance the development of this hobby IMO /rant

KiM

 

[liveforphysics]

just a phase he's going through nothing more, like a bout of crabs after a poor decision the night before at the Hotel when drunk (thats never happened to me it was...uhm... Luke )

lol. Plenty of bad decision making over here, but to set the record straight, always on a sober brain, and always knowing that keeping a blanket in the trunk saves the cost/hassle of a hotel room.

Matt to will get over it... And when he does you fellas moaning and winging about noise and chains and what ever the I want to hug else you F.A.G.S whine like women about will still be stuck with poorly made, overheating, old technology resulting in overweight bikes duct taped from ass-hole to breakfeast with 60-100v or more of batteries to make them perform and STILL you will have inferior performance & handling due to poor weight displacement. Your all stuck in the past and happy to settle for mediocrity rather than push the envelope and advance the development of this hobby IMO /rant

KiM

This has gotta be the best anti-hubbie rant I've ever heard so far.


This build is going very nicely! Great job 1000w!

 

[Hyena]

lol,

 

[1000w]

Thanks for the support everyone and the ranting is fine with me, makes me laugh a lot. I like seeing and hearing all the individual tastes and ideas.
Cell Man, via PM, tells me it would be a good idea, with these cells and the BMS I am using, to have some kind of pre charge resistor to prevent the big current spikes going into the BMS.
How and what is needed to set this resistor up?
Things may be a little slow on this build for a while, my wife had our second daughter yesterday.
Cheers,
Matt.P.

 

[AussieJester]

Things may be a little slow on this build for a while, my wife had our second daughter yesterday.
Cheers,
Matt.P.

Congrats Matt

i hope the missus and the bub are both doing well! I thought it was still a week or two away? I tell ya Matt your lucky your hairs already gone buddy in ~14-16 years time your going to be stressing out big time hehe...

LoL@Luke and blanket, thats second bit of good advice i have recieved from Luke about wiminez, shall jot that down next to banging them in the butt to get out of paying child support :lol: Thx buddy hehe

lol,

Noooo...just stating the facts HiGHSiDE

KiM

 

[Hyena]

Congrats on the new arrival, I'm expecting number 2 in a few months. I feel for your ebike / project / man time being infringed on, even with 1 littley I have no time to myself, it'll be game over when there's two of them.

How and what is needed to set this resistor up?

You need 3rd power wire with a resistor in it that you connect first.
So you connect your negative and this pre-charge resistor to the positive then plug in the main +ve lead.
For an uncomplicated permamant solution if you're not planning to remove the battery from the bike I wire the negative straight to the controller, have a small gauge positive wire running through a momentary switch to the controller which you hold for a second or 2 and then switch on or connect the main pack positive lead.

The value of the resistor determines how long it takes to charge, the bigger the quicker it charges the caps in the controller and you can connect the main pack lead without a spark.

 

[AussieJester]

Congrats on the new arrival, I'm expecting number 2 in a few months. I feel for your ebike / project / man time being infringed on, even with 1 littley I have no time to myself, it'll be game over when there's two of them.

I dunno Matts pretty sorted he brings his lil daughter Zoey up most times he comes here & she would easily be the best behaved child i have seen of her age ever. Well haha she is when she is here anywayz i'm sure she has her moments at home as all kiddies her age do (i think shes ~3 Matt?)

I have a diagram and destructions on pre-charge resistor too mate ill email it through if i can find it.

KiM

EDIT: might as well put it here for anyone else ...?



That was almost "Miles-Like" finding that on my PC

And heres a precharge setup on pdf for you too Matt

View attachment en-antispark-d230808.pdf

p.s Matt i have some 1k resistors here to

 

[Hyena]

I'd probably go with a 2-5w 500 ohm or less if you want it to charge quicker.
1k will take about 5 seconds, and that's forever when you're standing there with you finger on a button. Or maybe I'm just impatient!

Here's a calculator for working out the optimal value for your degree in impatience :lol:
http://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/_nospark.html

 

[rodgah]

if that major big isolator switch is on your positive line into the controller, why not put the resisters and momentary switch across the poles of the isolator....drill a small hole through the mount for the isolator for the momentary button....all in 1 setup 8)

well atleast thats what im doing.

cheers
Rodger

 

[1000w]

Thanks for the well wishes and the info on pre charge resistors.
Great link Hyena.
I will do a set up, across the poles of the big isolator, like rodgah, suggested.

 

[cell_man]

Hi Matt,

thanks for your comments and the build is looking great.

I'd go along with the momentary switch idea. I've used much smaller resistance than most have recommended and they worked out fine but in that case the type of resistor used is more important. I used wire wound 5ohm 5W resistors and they have worked fine.

 

[1000w]

I need some help.
I now have everything wired up and the motor does nothing.
The controller is showing 5 volts at the throttle plug and 5 volts at the red hall wire.
How do I test if the phase wires from the controller have power?
At this stage I don't know if I have a controller issue or motor issue.
Cheers,
Matt.

 

[cell_man]

Hi Matt,

first thing I'd do is to try substituting different parts. You've got other working bikes I believe so I'd recommend plugging the suspect controller into that bike. Alternatively just connect the suspect motor into the controller of your other bike that you know is working and see how you go. Of all the controllers I've tried, the Mac worked right away without changing the Hall or Phase connections.

It's possible a mistake was made with the phase or hall sensor wiring when the motor was modded or the phase wires just got a bit mixed up.

 

[1000w]

Thanks for the advice Paul.
I have just discovered that one of the wires snapped off the resistor between the throttle and controller.
I briefly joined the end of the resistor to the broken wire and twisted the throttle and bingo the motor fired up.
It's late at night and getting down to 0 deg, so I will test ride tomorrow.
Cheers,
Matt.

 

[AussieJester]

It's late at night and getting down to 0 deg, so I will test ride tomorrow.

Glad you got it sussed buddy, soon as my ESC gets here we will have to organise to catch up with Timma
before one of us breaks something......again hahaha

KiM

p.s give us a call when you get back from the ride, i want to hear the utter disappointment in the frock motor while the bad experience is fresh in your mind buddy cheers :lol:

 

[cell_man]

Glad you got it sorted Matt

 

[1000w]

Ok, I have got my throttle sorted by following "methods" idea of using a 1K resistor in line with the +5V and a 3K resistor inline with GND.
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=10312&p=179667&hilit=infineon+magura#p179667
The throttle has no dead spots above or below the active zone, it has nice resolution.
However something is not right with the controller or motor.
With WOT the bike will accelerate well to about 25kmh using 30amp max, then the motor will stop completely. If the throttle is returned to minimum and then turned back on the power resumes until the same point and it cuts out again.
The motor also makes a sort of rattly rumble sound at high amp draw ie WOT just before the motor cuts out.
Any ideas would be much appreciated.
Cheers,
Matt.P.

 

[Hyena]

Mark AW in Melbourne had similar issues with his from memory, although I think his problems were at low speed.
Shoot him a PM and he may be able to shine some light on your situation.

I didnt even bother with the infineon for mine, I've ordered a lsdzs controller the same as the ones cell_man has found to be sucessful on these motors.

 

[AussieJester]

I didnt even bother with the infineon for mine, I've ordered a lsdzs controller the same as the ones cell_man has found to be sucessful on these motors.

If you want to try that route Matt i'll give you what you paid for the 12 fet

KiM

 

[Hyena]

why so you can kill another one ?

 

[voicecoils]

The motor also makes a sort of rattly rumble sound at high amp draw ie WOT just before the motor cuts out.
Any ideas would be much appreciated.

Rattly rumbly sounds often indicate that you don't have the right combination of hall and phase wires. Are you sure those are right before looking for problems elsewhere? There's usually a couple of combos that do run but result in high current draw and not smooth running.

 

[1000w]

Thanks for the quick replies guys.
I want to get this controller working, so no sale yet Kim.
I went out and tried every hall wire combination. I had them right from the start.
Interestingly one combination ran the motor backwards and it did the same cut out and rumble when it reached a certain speed.
I will keep trying different software settings.
Cheers,
Matt.P.

 

[adrian_sm]

If it is the same problem Mark had, he fixed it by changing the phase current.
Check his post here.

Good luck.