John in CR
100 TW
ian.mich said:these controllers works flawlessly with 24s
I was told my regen was only good to 84V, so I'd say flawlessly to 20s.
ian.mich said:these controllers works flawlessly with 24s
HypnoToad said:"I'm pretty usless at unsoldering FETs, especially on cheaper PCB's where tracks can be lifted."
John in CR said:ian.mich said:these controllers works flawlessly with 24s
I was told my regen was only good to 84V, so I'd say flawlessly to 20s.
ian.mich said:modder said:
i just bought one of these. Just waiting for it to arrive.
if i don't use 3 speed will i just get max speed?
what if i wanted to run 140volts LiMn? is there a fet that can handle that?
Yes, but i think i read if you connect the blue and black wires (3 speed wires) then you get a slight speed upgrade, havent tried it yet. For 150v you're looking at 4115s which they have. you made the right choice, this is the best controller supplier in china.
In fact I've been unsoldering IC's more now that I've been trying to modify my Ezee controller, and I'm getting to grips with it. Cutting the legs and pulling out each leg one by one is a nice idea, I'll give that a try as I have a cheapy 6 fet controller on it's way that I may try swapping the FET's.Gordo said:HypnoToad said:"I'm pretty usless at unsoldering FETs, especially on cheaper PCB's where tracks can be lifted."
Even if you are a total spaz you can easily get the FET's out by clipping off the legs and then just heat the joint and blowing through the hole. Better yet is to take some old copper braid off any antenna or CATV wire and use it as a wick. Give it a try, catch another skill?
Emoto said:Interesting supplier Ian, the dc-dc converter looks good, 24-72v range
Did you see his motor http://www.aliexpress.com/item-img/...ing-E-motorcycle-High-Quality/575036230.html# looks like a popular hub motor we all know.
jeremyJeremy Harris said:Contact Keywin Ge (e-crazyman on ebay) and ask him to give you a price for controllers with no FETs fitted.
Emoto said:jeremy
I have contacted him and done the same, do you know a ebay supplier who sells genuine 4110 fets.
ian.mich said:oil cooling that motor and running some serious power through it would be awesome, and much cheaper.
John in CR said:ian.mich said:oil cooling that motor and running some serious power through it would be awesome, and much cheaper.
Unless you plan some kind of radiator you have been badly misled.
I think what john is saying you wont make the power you think you will. I mean I got 6.5 HP from a stock x5304 and I don't care how much cooling you do because I found this with a cold motor. The cooling will not allow it to make anymore power it will just allow it to run at the higher power levels for a longer time.ian.mich said:John in CR said:ian.mich said:oil cooling that motor and running some serious power through it would be awesome, and much cheaper.
Unless you plan some kind of radiator you have been badly misled.
The oil speeds the movement of heat from the windings, to the case, then to the outside air.
I think what john is saying you wont make the power you think you will. I mean I got 6.5 HP from a stock x5304 and I don't care how much cooling you do because I found this with a cold motor. The cooling will not allow it to make anymore power it will just allow it to run at the higher power levels for a longer time.
Unfortunately im in Australia so ebay would have been great,Jeremy Harris said:Emoto said:jeremy
I have contacted him and done the same, do you know a ebay supplier who sells genuine 4110 fets.
My personal view is that buying FETs from ebay is a pretty sure-fire way to get counterfeits. I bought a batch of dud 4110s via ebay a couple of years ago, I don't know what they were, but they sure as heck weren't real IR made FETs, despite being badged as IR parts.
Your best bet is to buy them from a reputable company that deal with genuine IR parts. In the UK/EU RS Components and Farnell are good suppliers, in the US Digikey and Mouser are similar.
Emoto said:Unfortunately im in Australia so ebay would have been great,
We have a rs here but but the only differance between a mugging and there prices is they dont use a gun.
So i was hoping a genuine ebay supplier had surfaced
ian.mich said:I think what john is saying you wont make the power you think you will. I mean I got 6.5 HP from a stock x5304 and I don't care how much cooling you do because I found this with a cold motor. The cooling will not allow it to make anymore power it will just allow it to run at the higher power levels for a longer time.
Well yeah that's kind of what i meant. theres a local ebike guy who uses the chinese hubs (pro 901 type deal), oil cools and runs 24s lipo and 60a through a 4110 greentime.
John in CR said:ian.mich said:I think what john is saying you wont make the power you think you will. I mean I got 6.5 HP from a stock x5304 and I don't care how much cooling you do because I found this with a cold motor. The cooling will not allow it to make anymore power it will just allow it to run at the higher power levels for a longer time.
Well yeah that's kind of what i meant. theres a local ebike guy who uses the chinese hubs (pro 901 type deal), oil cools and runs 24s lipo and 60a through a 4110 greentime.
I've been running a sealed motor of similar dimensions without oil at 20s80A for 2 years, so your local ebike guy's results aren't impressive. The heat transfer limit is determined by the outer surface area. In the short term the oil fill approach gets the heat to the covers quicker, but in the long term, unless an external radiator is used, oil fill just smooths out the temperature spikes of the windings. It doesn't change the continuous power limit. GCinDC demonstrated this with his motor simply taking longer to get up to the same temperature.
Be careful following the crowd and their latest fad, especially when no one has shared before and after no load current, no load speed, or even wh/mile. A couple of years ago MWKeefer did thorough testing of oil fill and came to the conclusion it's really only worthwhile in geared hubs, so until better info is presented I'll remain a skeptic. Winding temperature is only a small part of the puzzle, and since I've managed to climb mountains without a temp sensor without melting a motor, I'm not too worried about the windings.
When I want to go to higher power than a stock hubbie can handle, I employ a simple proven ventilation strategy, but not simply the holes in the pizza pan ventilation that was last year's fad that proved marginally effective. If I did lots of low speed launches, then I'd employ a force air ventilation like Arlo has proven to be effective.
My sealed motor at 80A does get pretty hot, but I'm running an identical motor but ventilated at 137A with a Greentime controller, and that motor never gets past warm including climbing steep mountains.
John
John you were going to do a new motor comparison thread ventilated vs sealed , any progress/ link?John in CR said:My sealed motor at 80A does get pretty hot, but I'm running an identical motor but ventilated at 137A with a Greentime controller, and that motor never gets past warm including climbing steep mountains.
John
The Mighty Volt said:£1.80 per 4110 Fet from one of the UK Suppliers, and thats for 200 Units.
The Mighty Volt said:PS nice to see you here again Jeremy, thanks for all the info
ian.mich said:Thats great information, thank you for that. So I could run a chinese hub with no ventilation but new wiring at the 24s 60a?
Emoto said:John you were going to do a new motor comparison thread ventilated vs sealed , any progress/ link?John in CR said:My sealed motor at 80A does get pretty hot, but I'm running an identical motor but ventilated at 137A with a Greentime controller, and that motor never gets past warm including climbing steep mountains.
John
John in CR said:ian.mich said:Thats great information, thank you for that. So I could run a chinese hub with no ventilation but new wiring at the 24s 60a?
Every system needs to be tested under your own riding conditions. Once you understand the limits and which of your conditions create the most heat, then you can ratchet current up. I could melt any hub motors at 12s30a, and on the other hand I could make any DD hubbie survive 24s100a. So much depends on hills, weight, and how you ride that generalizations result in burned up motors and controllers.
The only generalization that is truly valid is that smaller wheels are always better for hubmotors.
John