Hall sensor error…. Or?

tobiasdam

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I have an ev bike with rear wheel hub motor.

Recently I started getting the error info 03 which should be a connection problem to the motor. I checked the cables and there does not seem to be anything broken from the controller all the way to the actual motor.

When the error occurs, the motor starts giving a hissing sound, and power is very limited. After a while the error disappears and the bike seems to be working again. But only for a few minutes after which the errors comes back.

I also figured out that in some wheel positions, when the error is there, the wheel will not start turning when I give power.

I am suspecting a hall sensor to be faulty.

Do you think I am right, or could it be something else?

I also recorded this video of the bike behavior…
 
Seems like a good guess, although it could still be the wiring or soldering connections since it works intermittently. I'd first test the hall sensors by performing the steps in the link below and go from there. I'm guessing there's a good chance you'll need to open up the motor.

 
Halls don't actually fail that often, it's much more common for there to be a connection fault, even though it isn't visible. The most certain way to really verify a connection issue is to open both motor and controller and measure resistance from each of the hall sensors inside the motor all the way to the connection point inside the controller.

Almost always connection problems are at the pins of the connector, either spread contacts that do not fully mate, even though they *look* fine, or at the back of the connector where the wires enter the shell or the pins where they can break from bending. Same thing for other places in the cables that bend or enter enclosures, etc.


Otherwise, you can test the halls themselves (if there is a wiring fault, though, you may not get correct signals even if the halls are good)
 
Halls don't actually fail that often, it's much more common for there to be a connection fault, even though it isn't visible. The most certain way to really verify a connection issue is to open both motor and controller and measure resistance from each of the hall sensors inside the motor all the way to the connection point inside the controller.

Almost always connection problems are at the pins of the connector, either spread contacts that do not fully mate, even though they *look* fine, or at the back of the connector where the wires enter the shell or the pins where they can break from bending. Same thing for other places in the cables that bend or enter enclosures, etc.


Otherwise, you can test the halls themselves (if there is a wiring fault, though, you may not get correct signals even if the halls are good)
Hello, I apologise for gravedigging this thread but I wanted to ask a couple questions about this. Do I do this with the battery plugged in? If so, display on or off?
 
To test the typical motor hall sensors they must have a power supply and ground, and they must have a pullup on their signal (they don't output any voltage on their own, they just ground whatever is provided on the pullup resistor, whenever they are "on", so on is actually no output, nearly 0V, and off is whatever the pullup is, usually around 5v).

The controller, if it is working correctly, and there are no wiring faults, will do all that, if it is connected to the halls correctly and the controller is turned on but not spinning the motor on it's own. (so you can manually rotate the motor to test each hall).

Your other post
shows you probably have a wiring fault shorting two of your sensors together, so until that's found and resolved, you won't be able to test the sensors properly.
 
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