Hello all,
I have searched extensively and haven't found the answer to my questions so here goes.
Setup :
MCS Cruiser
Grin Front Hub V1
72V 2.5kWh Battery
Phaserunner with MT plugs
Cycle Analyst
Introduction :
Original torque arm mount gave out and lead to severed motor cable.
Initial repair :
Opened the motor, replaced motor cable and upgrade to L1019 connector and created an L1019 adapter cable to MT plugs on phaserunner and used the new frame clamp for the torque arm. While I was at it, I replaced the worn out bearings. When everything was sealed back together, ran the autotune to find out there was a bad hall.
Second repair :
After diagnosing an always on hall sensor probably damaged by a short when the cable severed, replaced with a new one. Once that was done, autotune works fine, hall map ok. The only oddity is that the new hall sensor seems to be more reactive that the two original ones. Tested with a magnet, the signals coming from the older ones are a little "sticky" when I approach and remove the magnet. The new one has immediate reactions when approaching and removing magnet. All three are "normally on".
So I lace it all back up, temp read ok, speed ok, hall start ok but a little jerky. Then things get weird. As soon as I put on the power, the motor is vibrating quite severely and isn't running smoothly at all. I tried autotuning several times to no avail. I tried running the motor in all three modes :
Hall only - somewhat jerky start but acceptable, lots of vibrations up to 30kph.
Hall start, sensorless run - identical behaviour.
Sensorless - No start from standstill as we can expect but a buttery smooth operation above 0.5-1kph.
Hypothesis
It seems like the phaserunner isn't switching to sensorless when runner even in hall start sensorless run mode. It seems to be a hall issue because sensorless operation is smooth and quiet as can be. I can't figure out what to do and I would be thrilled to figure this out software wise because I don't really feel like opening up the motor again and replacing the other two hall sensors and relacing the wheel. Maybe the different quality hall sensors lead to bad timing ? If anybody has ever experienced this or has any idea what to do, please advise !
Happy riding !
Arlen
I have searched extensively and haven't found the answer to my questions so here goes.
Setup :
MCS Cruiser
Grin Front Hub V1
72V 2.5kWh Battery
Phaserunner with MT plugs
Cycle Analyst
Introduction :
Original torque arm mount gave out and lead to severed motor cable.
Initial repair :
Opened the motor, replaced motor cable and upgrade to L1019 connector and created an L1019 adapter cable to MT plugs on phaserunner and used the new frame clamp for the torque arm. While I was at it, I replaced the worn out bearings. When everything was sealed back together, ran the autotune to find out there was a bad hall.
Second repair :
After diagnosing an always on hall sensor probably damaged by a short when the cable severed, replaced with a new one. Once that was done, autotune works fine, hall map ok. The only oddity is that the new hall sensor seems to be more reactive that the two original ones. Tested with a magnet, the signals coming from the older ones are a little "sticky" when I approach and remove the magnet. The new one has immediate reactions when approaching and removing magnet. All three are "normally on".
So I lace it all back up, temp read ok, speed ok, hall start ok but a little jerky. Then things get weird. As soon as I put on the power, the motor is vibrating quite severely and isn't running smoothly at all. I tried autotuning several times to no avail. I tried running the motor in all three modes :
Hall only - somewhat jerky start but acceptable, lots of vibrations up to 30kph.
Hall start, sensorless run - identical behaviour.
Sensorless - No start from standstill as we can expect but a buttery smooth operation above 0.5-1kph.
Hypothesis
It seems like the phaserunner isn't switching to sensorless when runner even in hall start sensorless run mode. It seems to be a hall issue because sensorless operation is smooth and quiet as can be. I can't figure out what to do and I would be thrilled to figure this out software wise because I don't really feel like opening up the motor again and replacing the other two hall sensors and relacing the wheel. Maybe the different quality hall sensors lead to bad timing ? If anybody has ever experienced this or has any idea what to do, please advise !
Happy riding !
Arlen