Help identify this Crytalyte hub motor, is it worth fixing?

[heynow9991]

I have an old ebike I am trying to fix. It has this Crystalyte hub motor on it. I cant get it to work so I took it apart and it looks like the wires going into the hub are damaged. I also measured the voltage to the hall sensors with the controller powered up, and I would get 5 volts continuously when I moved the wheel. I assume that the hall sensors are blown?

So I would like to know what motor this is, and is it worth fixing? I have never done hall sensors but I think I would be able to do it.

The hub motor is at least 5 years old. It looks like it says QM1012R10120 on the cover

Thanks

 

[goatman]

you might want to look up a 408

 

[markz]

Wires damaged going into axle, is totally fixable. I have done that repair a few times. It can be tough to get the wires through the axle. I recommend buying a SENSORLESS controller from EVFitting on Aliexpress which is Greentime. Then you dont have to worry about the hall sensors.

The damaged phase wires, you might be able to get away with some extra wire inside that you can loosen and bring more out of the axle, then a good heat shrink over the phase wires would do the job nicely. If there is no slack in the phase wires, then its onto stage #2. Getting new wire through the axle. You need to open up the motor to see what exactly is going on, if theres slack in the phase wires or not.

The hall sensors are an easy fix too.
https://www.ebikes.ca/learn/troubleshooting.html
- Repairing a defective hall sensor
- Testing for a Defective Hall Sensor
- Removing a motor stator from the hub

 

[markz]

Next up, once you got the motor opened up, and the stator out of the magnet ring, you can measure the magnets too see generally what kind of power levels you are looking at for that motor. A marking stamp on the outside of the motor may reveal the motor, if someones got the eye for that.

Allen keys, open up both sides of the cover plates. Be sure the bolts and washers are off the axle.
With the wheel on the floor, push the rim down to get the magnet ring off the stator rotating assembly.
Inspect to see if there is some slack to work with.
Hopefully sliding the cover plate over the wire exit side is a breeze. Sometimes its not when upgrading the wire gauge.

Get back to us asap during china virus times, boredom rules supreme.

 

[goatman]

if pushing doesn't work, try banging it on a phonebook. don't be a tard like me, I put a towel over the hardwood floor, now I got a dent in the floor

 

[heynow9991]

Thanks for the advice

Questions about a sensorless controller, right now I have a Lyen controller that came with the motor, I will get the model number, but can I use it without the sensors? Will it work if I just leave the sensors unpluggged?
I googled a bit and it seems it is a HT35 series motor. Just under 1000w peak power

http://www.crystalyte.com/h35%20series.htm

 

[goatman]

Thanks for the advice

Questions about a sensorless controller, right now I have a Lyen controller that came with the motor, I will get the model number, but can I use it without the sensors? Will it work if I just leave the sensors unpluggged?
I googled a bit and it seems it is a HT35 series motor. Just under 1000w peak power

http://www.crystalyte.com/h35%20series.htm

I have the hs3540, takes 3500 watts. it will work sensorless but I think you need to pedal to get it going. where the wires goes through the axle its tight and will eat motor cables. if you take the side cover off you might want to mark the plate so it goes back on the motor the same way. the screw holes aren't exact on mine

 

[heynow9991]

I will try to rebuild the hubmotor, so I ordered some new hall sensors and wire from ebike.ca.

This is the controller I have, does anyone know the specs? I tried googling the serial numbers but I get nothing. Agin it is probably 10 years old. Lets hope it still works. It has been sitting on a shelf so I dont see why not.

 

[goatman]

I got the motor cable from grin and I filed the sharp edges off the axle then took a Dremel sanding disc and worked the axle metal where the motor capable cranks a 90 into the motor. I carefully took off the thicker rubber shielding of the motor cable and used heat shrink instead where the cable passes through the axle and immediately zip tie the motor cable to the axle as it leaves the motor. you just need to make sure that cable cant move at all at the axle