Help with HS3540

[Ham549]

I am upgrading to a HS3540 rear mounted hub-motor and would like to know what wiring work I need to do to the controller to make it all hook up right. These are the plugs that currently come from the controller a six pin female (for what I assume is the hall sensor) and three individual female hook-ups (for what I assume is the motor power) what kind of adapters will I need to make it compatible for the HS3540?

 

[Ham549]

BUMP Because I know someone on here must have a HS3540.

 

[biohazardman]

I always cut off the cheap junk connectors on the controllers and motors and put some decent barrel plugs, tiny ones for the halls and 4-5mm for the phase wires with some heat shrink, on anything I will not have to unplug often and 45A Anderson's on the wires that will be unplugged often, or need to be unplugged in a hurry, like the battery when I charge. As for what connectors the motor comes with it depends on when and who you buy it from. Some like the Deans as well.

 

[dogman dan]

Yes I agree, cut off the cheaper bullets on the 3 main power wires, and put something better on both the controller and the Motor. Better 4mm bullets or Anderson power poles are both good choices.

What type connectors comes on the motor may differ, depending on who you bought it from. Grin still puts andersons on motors I think.

The halls sensor plugs on your controller I never had any problem with, provided you have inserted the contacts properly. Sometimes you need to tweak out the retaining part of the contact so they stay in the housing. You can buy that connector in the male version from any electric scooter parts web store. Or convert your controller to whatever your motor comes with.

Until you have your new connectors, you can temporarily twist together halls wires and tape em.

 

[Tommy L]

Although boxing up 8 Andersons can be bulky, I like to do this as I use different controllers. I like to switch and try different things. By boxing up the Adersons to ensure Phase/hall are correct for each wheel/controller combo, makes for easy change outs. I box in layers of 3 phase then 3 halls and 2 power for halls :wink:

Tommy L sends...

 

[pendragon8000]

i used 8mm gold plated plugs from hobby king and a 6 pin din for the halls from jaycar (+,-,3 halls, temperature probe)

 

[Ham549]

I think can rearrange the three power wires until I have the right combination, but doing so on the hall sensor will be difficult. How will I know which wire goes where on the hall sensor pickup?

 

[pendragon8000]

What controller?
Here is my crystalyte to lyen posy
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=47452&start=100#p720113
If not lyen controller try color matching.

 

[Ham549]

My controller is a 12 FET 3077 Mark II Extreme Modder LYEN Edition Controller
I just got the motor and here are my hook ups

A 5 pin hook up of some sort for the hall sensor (and I have no idea what wire corresponds to what)
And a three pronged plug for the power. Does anyone know where to get the corresponding plugs to hook this up to my controller?

 

[MAGICPIE3FOCUSPOWER]

Mini XLR

For Phase connectors search for Andersons connectors.

 

[pendragon8000]

Lyen Controller to Crystalyte motor wire color lining (no load current draw on HS3540 = around 1.55A unlaced at 48v tested on 8/10/2012):

Controller: Motor:
HALL:
Yellow Yellow
Green Blue
Blue Green

PHASE:
Yellow Blue
Green Green
Blue Yellow

thats from Lyen and worked for me.
so i say if you want it to spin use the plugs lyen sent you.
if you want to run high power and have a solid conection that wont limit conductivity and or melt then upgrade the phase plugs to some large bullets 5.5mm or 8mm like mine. halls dont need upgrade, just hook them up.
let us know how you go.

 

[Ham549]

Lyen Controller to Crystalyte motor wire color lining (no load current draw on HS3540 = around 1.55A unlaced at 48v tested on 8/10/2012):

Controller: Motor:
HALL:
Yellow Yellow
Green Blue
Blue Green

PHASE:
Yellow Blue
Green Green
Blue Yellow

thats from Lyen and worked for me.
so i say if you want it to spin use the plugs lyen sent you.
if you want to run high power and have a solid conection that wont limit conductivity and or melt then upgrade the phase plugs to some large bullets 5.5mm or 8mm like mine. halls dont need upgrade, just hook them up.
let us know how you go.

I never liked bullett conectors because they weren't as secure as other connectors, but if they are better maybe I should. It is hard for me to tell the wireing color comming from the motor though because it is all covered up.

 

[Ham549]

Hooked up and under powered more problems see the video I posted here
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hpclZZwXrUk

Specs

Crystalyte Motor Style:HT3525 - torque motor (REAR)
12 FET 3077 Mark II Extreme Modder LYEN Edition Controller
Rev4 torque arm
Ping 48v 20AH LiFePO battery

Phase wiring

[pre]Controller Motor
G G
Y Y
B B

Hall Wiring

Controller Hall Sensor
R R
Blk Blk
Y B
G Y
B G[/pre]

 

[999zip999]

So it works fine with this combo ?

 

[Ham549]

Uh no it does not work fine.

 

[999zip999]

Yellow - yellow on the halls and green - green for the phase works for my lyen / 3525. Just swap the other colors. like pendragon 3000 said.

 

[Ykick]

Here's your video
[youtube]hpclZZwXrUk[/youtube]

What is the no-load current draw when the wheel is spinning off the ground? Is your CA calibrated for Amps correctly and otherwise setup for full power?

More than 3-5A in open air is a possible false positive Phase/Hall combination. Please be careful as you can destroy a controller riding it the way you're doing in some false positive combinations. Be very careful with throttle when testing for proper Phase/Hall combinations. Easy does it and keep a close eye on Amp meter.

Did you have a previous DD setup before this? 9C or similar?

 

[Ham549]

Thanks for all your help I swaped the wires in the way Linn sujusted it still diden't work. I could have made a mistake in wire matching since one strand of wires was black and I had to trace them back to the plug each time to match color. Any way I just happened to switch two hall wires and it came to life. I just got done on testing it around town and DAMN that motor has power and is defentely better than the side mounted geared can motor. I think I should dile down the power though it can draw over 1,800 watts and I don't think a Ping battery likes that.

 

[pendragon8000]

cool so its all fixed...
enjoy