How about a 3D printer section?

[goatman]

i had offered to Sunlu that instead of a refund just send me another roll they accepted and i cancelled the refund on amazon and theyre sending me a roll from their wharehouse, not going through amazon.

it would print fine for 12hrs or 24hrs or 1.5hrs random time

they also suggested printing at 210

doing a bike light adapter plate for my trike with Anycubic pla, its harder and stiffer than the sunlu pla cf?

also 80%infill with gyroid pattern actually does a gyroid pattern using cura, 100% infill/gyroid with cura didnt do a gyroid????



needs a v2 but its close



2 inch clamps for the frame

 

[goatman]

used the sunlu pla cf to print a motor shaft coupling
brass nozzle 200c
bed 50c
speed 50
turned out perfect

its on the left, regular pla on the right

 

[Chalo]

Nearly perfect misuse of material and technique! Makes plastic brake levers seem like a good idea by comparison.

You can go for the gold now, and make a shaft coupling out of chewed food.

 

[goatman]

au contraire mon frere

sunlu said i should try 210

the brass nozzle doesnt need the heat like hardened steel

also used the 36 tooth stainless feeder gear without doing esteps

brass nozzles are cheap cheap cheap

bought a new micro swiss knock-off hot end from bigtreetech but that will be here sunday

have another pla cf coupling printing right now
then ill have
2-pla couplings
2-pla cf couplings
2-pla + tough couplings
for testing
:thumb:

 

[ZeroEm]

Just wondering how you feel about the printer now?

Think it is costly, hobby or well worth the time and expence?

You seem to be really getting into it and have learned a lot quickly.

by goatman » Sep 24 2021 11:40pm

au contraire mon frere

sunlu said i should try 210

the brass nozzle doesnt need the heat like hardened steel

also used the 36 tooth stainless feeder gear without doing esteps

brass nozzles are cheap cheap cheap

bought a new micro swiss knock-off hot end from bigtreetech but that will be here sunday

have another pla cf coupling printing right now
then ill have
2-pla couplings
2-pla cf couplings
2-pla + tough couplings
for testing
:thumb:

 

[goatman]

thinking i should have bought the cr10 for bigger printing capabilities

getting freecad to do what i want is the biggest hurdle
its kind of like trying to put something together and the instructions are in chinglish

used to tinker on hotrods and vw's
now i tinker with ebikes and 3d printers, waaaay cheaper and alot more fun

with cura i sliced the same drawing with the exact same settings except
1 is 95% infill/gyroid, itll take 6days and 830grams filament
2 is 100% infill/gyroid, itll take 5 days and 880 grams infill, more material less time

with 100% infill/gyroid on cura i dont get a gyroid pattern, just straight lines

now im thinking 95% infill/gyroid will be stronger than 100% infill/gyroid on Cura

 

[ZeroEm]

I will watch you for a while longer before think about buying one. Started playing around with CAD last few years, better get my skills up a bit more.

Glad to hear about someone else that was into VW's. Love them little air cooled motors. In my mid 20"s used to rebuild the motors. Had a dune buggy, Type II station wagon, 69 bug stick shift automatic. Had 7 at one time. Father and Grand Father were mechanics, yes I hot rodded. Always wanted to do EV. Now that is all I want. ebikes and mini ev's.

Keep up the good work will use your trial and error as a guide.

by goatman » Sep 25 2021 10:30am

thinking i should have bought the cr10 for bigger printing capabilities

getting freecad to do what i want is the biggest hurdle
its kind of like trying to put something together and the instructions are in chinglish

used to tinker on hotrods and vw's
now i tinker with ebikes and 3d printers, waaaay cheaper and alot more fun

with cura i sliced the same drawing with the exact same settings except
1 is 95% infill/gyroid, itll take 6days and 830grams filament
2 is 100% infill/gyroid, itll take 5 days and 880 grams infill, more material less time

with 100% infill/gyroid on cura i dont get a gyroid pattern, just straight lines

now im thinking 95% infill/gyroid will be stronger than 100% infill/gyroid on Cura

 

[markz]

VW's are only cool if you modify them and take them to the dunes or do a Baja race in which case its better to go into the Jeep class.

https://www.creality3dofficial.com/products/creality-cr-10-3d-printer
$250 is a good price. I don't have much to make with one, maybe try a home made XT150 encased connector like the XT60/90. At most a battery box that fits perfectly between the rear wheel and seat post and another in the triangle. How much money in filament would that cost for a typical 18" mtb's triangle?

 

[nicobie]

If you can guess what the plastic battery box would weigh, figure that the filament will cost you ~$10/lb.

 

[nicobie]

thinking i should have bought the cr10 for bigger printing capabilities

If you want to print bigger parts, buy an ender extender and use the expensive pieces of your v2 to make a larger printer (400mm x 400mm)

https://enderextender.com/collections/ender-3

Be sure to let us know the results with the different filaments you've used on the couplings.

I've been testing the filament Justin has been using for brackets on his boat. It's a cf/PETG from filaments.ca from Canada. It only took a week to get from Canada to CA. It prints at a slightly lower temp than normal PETG. My temp testing shows 235*C works best on my machine. It likes a lot more retraction than PLA+ that I usually use. I went from 5mm retraction to 8. The biggest difference is having to raise the z offset I use for PLA+ .5mm in order to get the best first layer.

I'm getting really good prints with not too much stringing, which I understand is normal for PETG

Overall I'm liking this filament as it has a bit of flex to it. Really tough and hard to break. Doesn't snap like PLA. A roll set me back $30+ $10 shipping. Look for coupons, I got $10 off.

https://filaments.ca/products/carbon-fiber-petg-filament-1-75mm

 

[goatman]

had to turn the temp up to 215 on the pla cf
at 95% infill/gyroid and 50mm/s the printer shakes like a vibrator

i dont know if it will stay in one piece for a 6 day print

going to try and see what 40mm/s is like

 

[scianiac]

had to turn the temp up to 215 on the pla cf
at 95% infill/gyroid and 50mm/s the printer shakes like a vibrator

i dont know if it will stay in one piece for a 6 day print

going to try and see what 40mm/s is like

What's your accels like, since I presume that is a large part turning down the acceleration while keeping the speed up will reduce some of the vibration issues without slowing the whole print down, also using cubic infill is also very good and doesn't have those problems.

 

[goatman]

i dont know what accels are

if i slow down to 35mm/s its alot better and the print went from 6d9hr to 6d18hr

i just did this to have a good look at it

 

[nicobie]

One of the utube gurus says to put your printer on a big concrete paver. Says it helps with the harmonics.

 

[goatman]

i just got the boat motor out of the living room
if i start bringing in concrete pavers
a war might start

 

[goatman]

got the hot end installed but i didnt use the steel nozzle
i used brass and didnt change any settings

the duramic pla+ came in
nozzle temp 215
bed 60
printing the cat that comes with the ender3v2

ill see what the triangle fill looks like to see if it needs more heat but its just printing away no problems :thumb:

 

[markz]

Move your un-used hot tub so you can do some 3d printing on the concrete pad.

 

[nicobie]

Thats about the same temps I use for Sunlu PLA+

 

[goatman]

cant find where to change retraction
if i pause print it brings a string of pla to autohome
temp seemed fine

trying a motor coupling at 80mm/s

 

[goatman]

wound up at
223 brass nozzle
60 bed
80 mm/s 100% line infill
at 225 it blobbed and at 220 was a bit too cool and would drag the filament back when changing direction

the big print will be done in 3d19hrs

looked at the petg cf from filaments.ca, doesnt give any specs on its strength or temp resistance, could be good for fishing rod holders instead of solar panels :wink:

theres eco-tough pla cf, remains stable underload at 114 C, only 0.8kg roll
https://filaments.ca/collections/all/products/ecotough-pla-2-0-heat-resistant-carbon-fiber-1-75mm?variant=39356134096981

free shipping on orders over $125cad in Canada

looking at this TPE. i need to make a flexible spacer between my hanging battery and the frame
looks like my printer can print it
https://filaments.ca/collections/3d-filaments/products/elastomer-tpe-filament-black-1-75mm

 

[nicobie]

Retractions is in the advanced/expert settings under Travel in Cura. Your machine using PLA shouldn't need more than 7mm.

80 mm/sec might be a bit fast. Try 40 if you are having trouble

I can't stress enough how important the first layer is. Your Z offset has to be spot on. Use the micro step control to up and down the nozzle that you can find under prepare>z offset on your machine's screen. I think the stock firmware has that function. I updated mine to jyers and really find it useful. Easy to do .

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BI269XHyAFg

Best tutorial on first layer I could find:

https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#firstlayer

Printing carbon fibre eats brass. I've wasted 2 brass nozzles both after only about an hour each of printing cf/PETG.

It seems learning this 3 D printing takes a lot of fiddle frocking around.

 

[Alan B]

Marble or Granite scraps from the countertop installation folks make nice printer bases. Prettier and flatter than concrete.

Not much point in 100% infill, or values near that. Wastes material and time. Don't see experts using more than about 20-40% infill, if that's not enough need a different design or material, not just more plastic. Perhaps a CNC instead of a 3d printer.

Brass nozzles are inexpensive, but need to change them every few hours of printing with abrasive materials.

 

[goatman]

i was in cura and found all those settings

ive finally come to the conclusion
find a couple goto filaments
and stick with them

iam liking this duramic pla+ tough

max 50% infill ???????
i was thinking more like 80%

probably get the pla cf from filaments.ca, atleast they give a strength rating on it

 

[Alan B]

Many variables in printing make published data hard to interpret or compare, set up tests and make your own measurements.

 

[nicobie]

ive finally come to the conclusion
find a couple goto filaments
and stick with them

That's exactly what I'm going to do.

So far I've decided on Sunlu for PLA+ (good price, prints fine). I think I want something with CF in it too. The CF/PETG from Filament.ca I'm trying out seems to print ok so far. Have to do some strength tests with it. I want to try NylonX from matterhackers too, even though it's twice as pricey as the Canadian stuff.

I've got to stay from the youtube Voron videos. I'm starting to get tempted, but I haven't really mastered my little Ender3 v2 yet.