How much power can the Cyclone motor take?
- Thread starter StinkyGoalieGuy
- Start date
Hey guys, since you already have one of these motors torn down could you check something for me?
Are there winding sets inside these motors that are wired together in series that could be wired in parallel instead to run more amps? Or are they already all in parallel already and there isn't any possibility for doing that?
Also, is the cyclone motor delta or Wye (star) configuration "out of the box".
Just wondering what can be done with them if anything as far as changing wires around inside.
Are there winding sets inside these motors that are wired together in series that could be wired in parallel instead to run more amps? Or are they already all in parallel already and there isn't any possibility for doing that?
Also, is the cyclone motor delta or Wye (star) configuration "out of the box".
Just wondering what can be done with them if anything as far as changing wires around inside.
andrenoites
100 W
chupa said:andrenoites said:Already assembled the bike but haven't tested yet since is been raining all day.
I will update once I have news
Your results are interesting to me.
Hello chupa
The controller still cutoff with error 3,2
Sadly the motor fix didn't solve the problem.
I have seen a video with your bike cutting off power with that 130amp GT/Hobbyking watt-meter
I'm also using one of those meters and if I plug energy directly to controller without the watt-meter the motor seem to have more power.
When using the cheap watt-meter in your bike does it give any error then it cut off?
I'm wonder if my problem is caused my to much resistance in cabling causing reduced amperage from the battery's
I have 4 meters of 10AWG cable from the controller to the backpack battery's (one pair with 2 meters) plus the watt-meter.
I will test a direct connection from the battery to the controller without the cable extension to see if it works.
Any more suggestion?
Right know using 70% in motor max current and 50% battery max current
Tks
andrenoites said:chupa said:andrenoites said:Already assembled the bike but haven't tested yet since is been raining all day.
I will update once I have news
Your results are interesting to me.
Hello chupa
The controller still cutoff with error 3,2
Sadly the motor fix didn't solve the problem.
I have seen a video with your bike cutting off power with that 130amp GT/Hobbyking watt-meter
I'm also using one of those meters and if I plug energy directly to controller without the watt-meter the motor seem to have more power.
When using the cheap watt-meter in your bike does it give any error then it cut off?
I'm wonder if my problem is caused my to much resistance in cabling causing reduced amperage from the battery's
I have 4 meters of 10AWG cable from the controller to the backpack battery's (one pair with 2 meters) plus the watt-meter.
I will test a direct connection from the battery to the controller without the cable extension to see if it works.
Any more suggestion?
Right know using 70% in motor max current and 50% battery max current
Tks
anyway you upgraded Hall sensors correctly. The problem of 'short circuit' of contacts of sensors will be arise in the future and it is better to make upgrade in advance to forget this problem forever.
On the Live Journal page I spoke about problem with strange behavior of the motor disappeared after replacement of a wattmeter of Turnigy 130A by Batt-man of the Israeli production. http://www.batt-man.com
The problem of the motor was shown as stutters and power throws at the maximum power.
This bug in this example:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aHJEJA8SOK0 Listen motor sound.
Link on LJ:
http://chupa-kupa.livejournal.com/4004.html
Possibly high resistance of the Turnigy 130a shunt gives rise to such behavior of the motor.
I have this bug with 121L controller in full power (110amps max).
Are there winding sets inside these motors that are wired together in series that could be wired in parallel instead to run more amps? Or are they already all in parallel already and there isn't any possibility for doing that?
===
Impossibly because stator with coils is pressed and riveted in a motor socket. Disassembly of stator impossibly without cracking motor socket.
===
Impossibly because stator with coils is pressed and riveted in a motor socket. Disassembly of stator impossibly without cracking motor socket.
andrenoites
100 W
Just tested the battery directly connected to the controller without the extension cable from the backpack and controller still cut off at 26Amp
Oh well, running out of options here
I guess the problem has something to do with the controller...
Oh well, running out of options here
I guess the problem has something to do with the controller...
andrenoites
100 W
Hey chupa
The problem is fixed!!!
I like to thank you for all the help
Changing the throttle setting from 3 wire pod to Hall fixed the problem
I 'm very happy with the result, now the bike is super easy to ride and powerful
Tks,
André
The problem is fixed!!!
I like to thank you for all the help
Changing the throttle setting from 3 wire pod to Hall fixed the problem
I 'm very happy with the result, now the bike is super easy to ride and powerful
Tks,
André
andrenoites said:Hey chupa
The problem is fixed!!!
I like to thank you for all the help
Changing the throttle setting from 3 wire pod to Hall fixed the problem
I 'm very happy with the result, now the bike is super easy to ride and powerful
Tks,
André
Mmm... understood. You have small throttle zone . level of your throttle didn't reach the upper bound in settings.
I set lower bound is 0.9v . upper is 2.8v. It guarantees full power from the controler.
andrenoites
100 W
Will try that configuration in a while and will post the result
The motor and the battery max current are both at 100%
Now I'm getting max current at 42,6Amp on the watt meter (measured on the battery side)
Do you know here I configure to get the 100Amp 10 seconds peak?
The motor and the battery max current are both at 100%
Now I'm getting max current at 42,6Amp on the watt meter (measured on the battery side)
Do you know here I configure to get the 100Amp 10 seconds peak?
andrenoites said:Will try that configuration in a while and will post the result
The motor and the battery max current are both at 100%
Now I'm getting max current at 42,6Amp on the watt meter (measured on the battery side)
Do you know here I configure to get the 100Amp 10 seconds peak?
Just enable boost option in configure softw. The econony option should be disable.
But i do not recommend to give more than 80a current in 101L controllers.
andrenoites
100 W
Chupa
If I set max motor current to 50% does this mean I will have 35Amp continuous current and 50Amp max current peak (turbo function)?
My controller is 100Amp peak and 35 continuous
Tks
If I set max motor current to 50% does this mean I will have 35Amp continuous current and 50Amp max current peak (turbo function)?
My controller is 100Amp peak and 35 continuous
Tks
andrenoites
100 W
Hello again chupa
I have this nice upgrade for my bike, how did you manage to remove the original freewheel?
Thanks,
André
I have this nice upgrade for my bike, how did you manage to remove the original freewheel?
Thanks,
André
Hi Chupa
I saw this post below from you and i think i have the same problem.
I have this random kelly 4-2 hall sensor error in my motor, and how i fix it is move the bike backwards and then it starts again??
I checked with a kelly sine controller and when this error happens it shows ALL hall sensors high =1.
Do you think this matches with your short issue ?
I saw this post below from you and i think i have the same problem.
I have this random kelly 4-2 hall sensor error in my motor, and how i fix it is move the bike backwards and then it starts again??
I checked with a kelly sine controller and when this error happens it shows ALL hall sensors high =1.
Do you think this matches with your short issue ?
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