hub motor stutter/judder doesn't move

well I got a new thumb throttle but of course that didn't fix it.
Took the motor apart and cleaned it, put back together.
still has the same problem. i will attempt to test and fix the controller, but was thinking it best to have a spare anyway.

So, I see Ali has many different brands. Sunwin, Focan, etc.. Are these basically the same or is one brand recommended over the others?
 
I went ahead and got this one:
http://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/6461129566.html?orderId=65524896386552

the wiring is pretty strait forward except for the throttle. My throttle has 3 wires, black/red/white. Also has brown/yellow for the power switch and a green wire sharing the red for the voltage led. So, 6 wires total to the controller. My old controller had a 6 wire connector to attach to.
This new controller has 13 connectors besides the phase and hall sender wires. And no instructions.
SAM_1685.JPG


**Nevermind, I Googled and found a link back to this website:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=40900&start=500

can always count on ES for good info. time to start soldering.
 
Got the greentime wired up and my bike works again for the first time in 2 months.
I actually enjoyed riding the lightweight road bike on my commute, and my legs are much stronger now, but I don't think it will be seeing much use now that the ebike is back! :)

I will test the old controller and source replacement parts to have as a spare. Too much down time otherwise.
 
Had this same stutter/judder problem as you had in the first post here on a Metro A2B.

The 3 phase wires seem fine and there is no cogging when wheel is turned/

There are 3 phase wires and 6 small wires. These are the voltages I’m reading from the small wires when compared to the BLACK small wire as I turn the wheel very slowly

Checked:

BLACK / RED = 4.81V
BLACK / WHITE = 4.25V switching to 0V when turning wheel very slowly
BLACK / BLUE = 4.25V switching to 0V when turning wheel very slowly
BLACK / YELLOW = 4.25V switching to 0V when turning wheel very slowly
BLACK / (GREEN on controller side)(Salmon pink on motor side) = 3.87V doesn’t change at all when turning wheel very slowly

So it seems the 3 hall sensors are working. I don’t know what the wires are in number 5. So do you think the problem is a MOSFET?
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YH8oXWoZiYA

liamcaff said:
Had this same stutter/judder problem as you had in the first post here on a Metro A2B.

The 3 phase wires seem fine and there is no cogging when wheel is turned/

There are 3 phase wires and 6 small wires. These are the voltages I’m reading from the small wires when compared to the BLACK small wire as I turn the wheel very slowly

Checked:

BLACK / RED = 4.81V
BLACK / WHITE = 4.25V switching to 0V when turning wheel very slowly
BLACK / BLUE = 4.25V switching to 0V when turning wheel very slowly
BLACK / YELLOW = 4.25V switching to 0V when turning wheel very slowly
BLACK / (GREEN on controller side)(Salmon pink on motor side) = 3.87V doesn’t change at all when turning wheel very slowly

So it seems the 3 hall sensors are working. I don’t know what the wires are in number 5. So do you think the problem is a MOSFET?
 
liamcaff said:
BLACK / RED = 4.81V
BLACK / WHITE = 4.25V switching to 0V when turning wheel very slowly
BLACK / BLUE = 4.25V switching to 0V when turning wheel very slowly
BLACK / YELLOW = 4.25V switching to 0V when turning wheel very slowly
BLACK / (GREEN on controller side)(Salmon pink on motor side) = 3.87V doesn’t change at all when turning wheel very slowly

So it seems the 3 hall sensors are working. I don’t know what the wires are in number 5. So do you think the problem is a MOSFET?

No it doesn't. The white one is the speed sensor. The green one is a motor timing hall sensor and it isn't working.
 
Thanks for the message d8veh,

Are you familiar with the A2B? I'm confused as I was expecting to find 5 small wires (Black and Red for power, plus 3 hall sensor wires...) but there are 6....

So the speed sensor is different to the hall sensors? Am I right in saying the hall snesors are being used so the controller knows the position of the wheel, but there is an extra speed sensor in the A2B DD motor for speed feedback to the display? Do you know any details about it?

Any thoughts much appreciated.

L
 
The OP's issue was, as he noted.

The second poster...dunno. Looks like a rehash of this
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=69727&p=1053999#p1053999
and might also be in other threads of the time (many people seem to feel better scattering their problem in a bunch of threads so they never really get the right help, and waste as much time of others as possible).
 
Mea culpa. I'll have to re-read; I thought he ended up just getting a new controller.

For my own part, I must admit I find the search functions here a little cumbersome to use. The php search seems somewhat.. I'll say selective about the criteria offered, and google tends to do the opposite. But yea, in general I agree; most issues people encounter and ask about have been covered already.. a bunch of times. Hence how I came upon this old gem. :)
 
Yeah, the PHPBB search sucks, mostly because it doesn't allow quite a few search terms and types that are necessary with technical stuff like we deal with here.

Google's search sucks for different reasons (it tends to ignore what you actually put in, and gives you lots of completely unrelated results taht don't even contain the terms you put in, even if you use advanced options and *require* it to have them).


The OP did get a new controller to resolve it, as the old one was apparently the cause (there's another thread from him about setting up the new one with other issues). Dunno about the second person's problem, I didn't dig into it.

What specific problem are *you* having that is related to this thread, that we might be able to help fix?
 
Hey, thanks for asking! I'm actually trying to troubleshoot a problem for a fellow down the road who put together his own bike. Motor makes a quick ka-tunk back and forth when throttle is applied then nothing. It will do this repeatedly as many times as you like without disconnecting the controller. Hall sensors disconnected, same thing. I was pretty sure it was a throttle issue when I spoke to him on the phone but that checked out OK. What he didn't tell me until I got there was it had been running fine until recently. Another point of interest I discovered was that someone had told him some time ago that the reason the battery/controller connection sparked was because he didn't have the controller chassis "grounded". So I guess he did that and everything was fine, disconnected the battery then parked it under cover for a couple of months and now this. I told him wiring the controller to the Batt- was totally unnecessary and why. I also said that I couldn't think of a reason off hand why that would cause any damage but I certainly wasn't making any promises about it.

To be perfectly honest, there are a couple tests I've picked up from reading this thread that I've yet to try and I really didn't feel like cracking open the controller at the time, and in fact I still don't. Not my pig, not my farm if you catch my drift. It's entirely likely that I'll end up selling him a controller of my own but still, it's against my nature to swap out major components until I know for sure that that's what it's going to take because a) money and b) in my books that only barely qualifies as having "fixed" something as the mystery still prevails. Something went wrong and I still don't know what or why and until I do it's still going to bother me.

That's my philosophy anyway. But I guess sometimes (often) the thing to do is swallow your pride and just do what you gotta to get the damn thing running.

I'll be sure to report back as events warrant.

Cheers.
 
fourbanger said:
Motor makes a quick ka-tunk back and forth when throttle is applied then nothing.
Hall sensors disconnected, same thing.
If the controller is sensorless, then the latter means something is probably wrong with the FETs in a phase or more, or a wiring fault in the phases or actual windings, anywhere from the cotnroller PCB to the inside of the motor.

If the controller is not sensorless-capable, then the latter doesn't mean anything, because a hall sensor problem (or complete lack of them) would make the controller unable to spin the motor correctly (or at all).


What he didn't tell me until I got there was it had been running fine until recently.
Then you must find out from him EXACTLY what he changed, or what happened to the unit, JUST BEFORE it stopped working, because that is the cause of the problem. Hardly anyone will ever admit to such changes or accidents or whatever, but whenever such have occurred, it is virtually always the source of the problem. :/

I'd recommend having him make a complete list of all changes made to the system, in the order they were done, and any accidents, bumps, fall-overs, etc., including tire changes, flats, etc, because any or all of them could lead you to the problem, and making the list may make him think of something else he hasn't told you, and may also may make him realize how important information like this is to people helping him fix things. ;)


Another point of interest I discovered was that someone had told him some time ago that the reason the battery/controller connection sparked was because he didn't have the controller chassis "grounded". So I guess he did that and everything was fine, disconnected the battery then parked it under cover for a couple of months and now this. I told him wiring the controller to the Batt- was totally unnecessary and why. I also said that I couldn't think of a reason off hand why that would cause any damage but I certainly wasn't making any promises about it.
Grounding the controller case to battery negative means that anything else that touches the controller case (bike frame, axle, etc) is then also grounded. That means that any short of a signal, power, etc., to the grounded objects will result in damage or destruction to the source of those signals, power, etc.

For instance, if there is wire damage at the axle exit (very common) from an unadmitted crash/etc, then a phase wire shorting to the axle's sharp exit edges is shorting out the FET(s) attached to that, and can blow them up (which can also blow the gate drivers, etc). Since there are two phases active at any moment, a short like that can blow both of them up, and sometimes even damage the third one depending on conditions and operational mode at the time.




To be perfectly honest, there are a couple tests I've picked up from reading this thread that I've yet to try and I really didn't feel like cracking open the controller at the time, and in fact I still don't. Not my pig, not my farm if you catch my drift. It's entirely likely that I'll end up selling him a controller of my own but still, it's against my nature to swap out major components until I know for sure that that's what it's going to take because a) money and b) in my books that only barely qualifies as having "fixed" something as the mystery still prevails. Something went wrong and I still don't know what or why and until I do it's still going to bother me.
That's something I sympathize with...though I usually don't ahve time/energy to pursue it to much depth anymore.

In general, finding the true root cause of failures (failure analysis, somethign I'm reasonably good at in systems I'm familiar with, and have some fun doing) typically requires reasonably detailed knowledge of the system in question, how it works, what kinds of failures are caused by what types of events in such a system, etc., and the ability and willingness and time to carefully disassemble a system one little bit at a time and document and measure things as you go, etc. It can take a long time to do, and even longer when you're not more or less a specialist in that kind of system, as you may have to research how various things work and what their failure modes are.

But in general, there are a few basic causes that happen most of the time for most failures of most systems. The first one is always "somebody messed with it". ;) WIth electrical stuff, the next one is connectors and wires. (fluid systems it's connectors and hoses, other systems it's connections and materials). Then it's the stuff connected to the connector or wire that failed, etc, etc.

Sometimes so many things failed in a system "at the same time" that it's tough to tell whcih actually caused the others in the complete chain, but it's usually still "somebody messed with it" at the very very root.

The systems that just "randomly fail", at root, are often caused by insufficient original specification limitation, meaning not overspecifying the ability of one or all of the parts to handle the expected loads, not enough margin.

Etc.


That's my philosophy anyway. But I guess sometimes (often) the thing to do is swallow your pride and just do what you gotta to get the damn thing running.
Very often that's the only alternative, due to time limitations. Sometimes you can keep the system down for however long it takes...but that's rare.
 
Amberwolf, what you say sounds like..... something someone who fixes things for a living would say.

It's been damn near a week now and I haven't heard boo from the guy by phone or by email. Not sure what that means exactly; maybe he took it somewhere expensive and doesn't want to tell me so.

Aside from that, I kind of feel like your last post should be a part of the wiki, or maybe even a youtube vid. You're pretty much spot on all accounts.

But so am I: as of yet, this case is still open.

Damn.....
 
fourbanger said:
Amberwolf, what you say sounds like..... something someone who fixes things for a living would say.
That's me. :) I fix all sorts of things, from stuff to processes to "people" to animals, etc. Been that way as long as I can remember, I'm a fixer. So I've kinda "seen it all", as some people might say. ;)

While I don't know the answer to everything...I know a lot about how things got they way they ended up, which leads to how to fix them once the specifics of the actual situation are discovered.


It's been damn near a week now and I haven't heard boo from the guy by phone or by email. Not sure what that means exactly; maybe he took it somewhere expensive and doesn't want to tell me so.

Or he remembered what he last did to it, and undid it and now it works. :lol: Or he ordered all new stuff (from different places becuase it was cheaper that way, but they're not wired or made to work together) to start over and will come to you again when it doesn't work. ;)
 
Good call on folks not wanting to fess up to... incidents. Just went out there this morning to have another *closer* look. Axle spinout occurred at some point (front hub). Lock washers were in fact on backwards... *sigh*. I'll take part of the blame for not making a thorough enough examination, but the guy could have saved me a LOT of time. In the end I recommended he buy a new motor and walked away.

Not quite the experience I was hoping for, but at least I learned a couple things about troubleshooting (people?) so I guess it wasn't all bad.

Thank you for your guidance, Amberwolf. It is appreciated.
 
I have a 2000w 72v system and when I hit the throttle the motor locks up like it’s set to one spot idk what exactly is causing this.
 
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