Hi there,
I have damaged a controller which I'd like to recover. I am not in a hurry because a replacement is on its way, but I could use a spare. I am writing here because I hope to find someone that can guide me step by step through determining if and where the controller is broken: I have a DMM and the controller is on my desk. It might be a silly thing, I don't know. Thanks in advance for reading and, if I'm lucky, for helping.
Here is what's happened.
1. Controller is a Lyen 6 FET 3077 that was working fine. It came with the USB socket to program it, and the programming cable was provided by Lyen himself. Owing to lack of any windows/mac, I am using xpd (excellent program) that went through flawlessy straight form the beginning. EB306-A-6 is written on the controller board.
2. At a point in time I decided to try and program it. Cable was recognized and I flashed the original profile provided by Lyen with apparent success.
3. Then I went outside with the bike, and decreased current down to a silly value (4A battery, slightly more for phase, not remember exact value) to test that I'd "feel" the change, planning to up the current later step by step. I did feel the change! The CA only showed 1A battery current, but I was not too worried by the disagreement.
4. I stopped, switched off and tried to program an higher value of current, but to no avail: flashing did not succeed. And the bike now shows no sign of life. CA powers up, but nothing happens when I open the throttle.
5. It turned out that the chip inside the usb-ttl adapter was gone. As the outdoor operations were done in a cold climate, perhaps, as per Ed Lyen hypothesis, the chip shorted owing to humidity / condensation. Indeed, when I insert it on the usb socket of the pc, the plastic gets very warm quickly. After opening the plug, I determined that the chip becomes hot to the touch after seconds.
6. I then sourced a new usb-ttl adapter locally, same chip. I desoldered the leads and re-soldered to the original Lyen harness. I confirmed that the job was ok by flashing the stock profile on an identical controller. However, when I plug the adapter into the bricked controller, xpd gets stuck when I press the button: it doesn't flash.
7. I opened up the controller and, except for the input resistor that seems to be cooked but shows 270R as I believe it should be, nothing is wrong at a visual check.
I will appreciate any input and suggestion how to sort this out. Thanks again folks.
I have damaged a controller which I'd like to recover. I am not in a hurry because a replacement is on its way, but I could use a spare. I am writing here because I hope to find someone that can guide me step by step through determining if and where the controller is broken: I have a DMM and the controller is on my desk. It might be a silly thing, I don't know. Thanks in advance for reading and, if I'm lucky, for helping.
Here is what's happened.
1. Controller is a Lyen 6 FET 3077 that was working fine. It came with the USB socket to program it, and the programming cable was provided by Lyen himself. Owing to lack of any windows/mac, I am using xpd (excellent program) that went through flawlessy straight form the beginning. EB306-A-6 is written on the controller board.
2. At a point in time I decided to try and program it. Cable was recognized and I flashed the original profile provided by Lyen with apparent success.
3. Then I went outside with the bike, and decreased current down to a silly value (4A battery, slightly more for phase, not remember exact value) to test that I'd "feel" the change, planning to up the current later step by step. I did feel the change! The CA only showed 1A battery current, but I was not too worried by the disagreement.
4. I stopped, switched off and tried to program an higher value of current, but to no avail: flashing did not succeed. And the bike now shows no sign of life. CA powers up, but nothing happens when I open the throttle.
5. It turned out that the chip inside the usb-ttl adapter was gone. As the outdoor operations were done in a cold climate, perhaps, as per Ed Lyen hypothesis, the chip shorted owing to humidity / condensation. Indeed, when I insert it on the usb socket of the pc, the plastic gets very warm quickly. After opening the plug, I determined that the chip becomes hot to the touch after seconds.
6. I then sourced a new usb-ttl adapter locally, same chip. I desoldered the leads and re-soldered to the original Lyen harness. I confirmed that the job was ok by flashing the stock profile on an identical controller. However, when I plug the adapter into the bricked controller, xpd gets stuck when I press the button: it doesn't flash.
7. I opened up the controller and, except for the input resistor that seems to be cooked but shows 270R as I believe it should be, nothing is wrong at a visual check.
I will appreciate any input and suggestion how to sort this out. Thanks again folks.
