KMX Typhoon: tadpole trike is on the way!

parajared

10 kW
Joined
Apr 16, 2012
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858
Location
Northern Arizona
Well, the parajared household has been brewing up more mischief in the garage (more me than the wife).
My GNG kit has been tearing through rubber belts like a velocoraptor on a Jurrasic Park tour guide due to the amount of power I run through the system. I have torn up 3 of the buggers so far, and at $15 a belt this is a big issue. I scrapped the belt setup on my e-bike and modded it into a beastly chain driven off-road machine. I geared it low giving for that great climbing power. The bike is even better equipped for the hills than ever before; I'm really happy with the results... except that it’s now totally useless for driving to work in.


I am having trouble making the driveline efficient enough for my 17 mile trip to work. It's great for trail riding because craggy hilly terrain gobbles through power like you wouldn’t believe. The small amount of energy loss in the chainline is negligible comparatively. Conversely, just cruising my dirt machine down a smooth road at a constant speed doesn’t seem to get anywhere close to the efficiency of a hub driven setup.


My choices now are to carry more batteries to make it to work, change my bike back to normal, and end my electric off-roading days, or build something that can actually haul my rear to work. Certainly I wouldn’t want to actually resort to peddling more; what am I a peasant!


I chose rather than doing a standard diamond frame build I would focus on making a top efficiency, super comfort machine for long rides with minimal electricity drain. I decided to scoop up a brand new a KMX Typhoon trike like this one: http://www.utahtrikes.com/TRIKE-KMXTYPHOON.html which I snatched up for a “deal" ($700) because 2012 models are so last year. These really aren’t the sort of things you see on craigslist or for that matter that you see ever, but Matt Schumaker and doctorbass look like they are having way too much on thiers, and I just had to give one a try. I will let you know the results of this project once I slap some batteries on the thing and try it out for myself.
 
i have a kmx typhoon with a e-bike kit hub motor on it and it is alot of fun,hope you enjoys yours.
 
i too can vouch for the increased efficiency on a recumbent tadpole trike.

i have had big gains in wh/km after i went to the recumbent from the hybrid that i used to ride.
I've had my trike for about 6 months now, and it still brings a silly grin every time i ride it.

Jason.
 
My only bike experience is on my tadpole trike. It is a catlike pocket. From what I've read it appears mine is also efficient. I do enjoy and benefit from assisting and that adds something to the efficiency. My CA reads between 14.5 to 18 watts per mile. I like to cruise at 20 to 22 mph. That is not my average. If the road was completely clear....

Good luck on your build. The batteries need to be below and in front of the rear axle. Or you won't be happy with the ride. I learned the hard way. Didn't roll but a waste of effort mounting the battery wrong.
 
my batteries are mounted low (about axle level) but they are pretty much in line with the axle.
handling is great. been thinking of ways that i might move them a little further forward, but haven't done so yet.

Jason.
 
Ypedal said:
if you have the roads for a trike, you will love the thing to the point of letting your other bikes rust.

If the county ever repaves the notorious 60 MPH zone on Westminster Ave. between Bolsa Chica Rd. and Seal Beach Blvd. making the shoulder wider, that could make a trike commute possible for me. Side trips would be another story. I still want one.

https://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en
 
Well I got home last night and found a big brown box just sitting there on the doorstep staring back at me. Turns out there was a trike inside, just begging to be assembled and electrified. This is really fortunate for me because I was wanting to do that very thing.
I also found out fairly quickly why I got this trike for the amazing e-bay deal of $700. I found scuff marks on the peddles, brake smear marks on the disks, dirt in the tire tread, and general signs of wear on the kart. The wear was minimal enough I am convinced I have a display model, or a trike that someone returned, so guess I can’t complain too much. I have things almost completely assembled now and will hopefully soon have this thing blasting down the road.
 
Yes recumbent trikes rule!. Much more effecient than most 2 wheelers at least in my experience. My wife and I average about 1/2 ah per mile@ 36 volts. So 20 miles takes about 10 AH at 36 volts. I know the experts like WH/mile but this means of electricity usage measurement has worked for me. Anyhoo lower trikes do even better, like KMX. All bikes and trikes were new once so I hope you saved a bit of money on your "pre-used" trike. My Steintrike was also "Pre-used" as a magazine test subject about 4 years ago by a really big guy and is doing fine. My wife's trike was new and is also doing fine.
otherDoc
 
ypedal,

It appears to me that you are developing what is known as trikers grin. And once you get it, it never goes away. Many diamond frame bikes have gone to rust due to tadpole trikes.

Grin on!
 
I have experienced a few problems with my build so far: I am 6' 3" and when I extend the boom out to the length comfortable for my legs it makes the chain too short. I didn't recognize this problem initially and when I shifted down to a low gear I ripped the rear derailer right off the trike! :shock: Anyhow I promptly replaced the the derailer mount with a Doctorbass tourqe arm+ derailer mount which I was planning on doing anyway. I then vowed to only leave it in top gear until I properly lengthened the chain; leading me to my second problem, top speed.

I still wanted to take the trike for a spin without the motor and electronics on it, even if I was limited to to just top gear. People talk about slowly developing their "bent legs" but for me the effect was immediate. Maybe it is because I have only ridden mountain bikes thus far, but it just flies down the road with the least amount of effort... to a certain point. I am no Lance Armstrong, but I found the top gear top be pretty wimpy. The thing just wants to keep accelerating, and I want to go faster, but can't.

I ordered a Vuelta 60t chainring off amazon.com (http://www.amazon.com/Cyclone-868991600-Vuelta-SE-Chainring/dp/B0081USBEI/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1359218584&sr=8-4&keywords=60t+chainring) for $42, which is the highest tooth count I could find without breaking the bank. Fingers crossed that it will just mount right up, but I may have some welding and grinding in my future.
 
for chain length, you don't have to replace the entire chain, just add the required links to the chain.

and as for "bent legs" it took me at least 2 months to get comfortable muscle wise riding the trike.
good luck with the chain ring swap.

Jason.
 
Tadpoles are terrific electric builds. Since your trike is evidently used, you need to check the toe in/out of the front tires. Because of the frame flex, you need to do this with your weight on the trike or have someone give you a hand. You need the front to be as close to dead on as you can get it. Although on some trikes it can be as much as 1/32 toed in. This will keep your tires from scrubbing. Which in a corner can have your ass over tea kettle if not careful. Also scrubs the rubber off way too quickly. Some trikes have better frontends to deal with the Ackerman compensation. ICE, Catrikes, Steintrike and HP Velotechnik are all good examples of this. Trouble is finding a used one for sale. I'd rather sell my Jag then one of my trikes. Have fun and don't laugh at the DF riders. Oh and remember that a tadpole's weight is 60/40 bias, so the rear wheel can unload on you pretty easy.
 
i have had my trike up to 49kmh (down hill with a 20kg trailer following me) and it wasn't too bad.

certainly i wouldn't want to have to make an emergency jink, but it was stable enough that i wasn't overly concerned.

Jason.
 
Ok, I take back everything I said about having my bent legs. The day after I was sore. Definitely a different muscle set.

I got my 60 tooth installed today. Everything lined up and it mounted on really easy with the help of some washers. I am still waiting for the freewheel to arrive, so I took it for a spin without the motor on again. 60t is a bit much for steep hills, but I still have the same problem I had with the stock chainring. I keep accelerating and accelerating and I feel like I can push the thing even faster yet, but I can't because I can only spin my legs around so fast. I was able to catch up with cars in the 25mph zone on my street under just my own leg power. So far it has been a really fun peddle platform. I can't wait to put some electric power behind it.

small_DSC01420_zps5bcb30c3.jpg
 
parajared said:
Some people are saying that these things get pretty touchy around 35mph. Could you correct this with just a hair bit of toe out?
I believe you mean toe-in. This should be no more than 1-2mm for stability. Toe-out (the front of the wheel wider than the back of the wheels on the front wheels at mid hight measured wil make the ride very twitchy. You want the front of the wheel toed in.
Also please, please get some clips or clipless pedals and shoes. If you slip off you can get your leg sucked under and get it crushed on a tadpole.
otherDoc
 
http://www.amazon.com/Cyclone-868991600-Vuelta-SE-Chainring/dp/B0081USBEI/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1359218584&sr=8-4&keywords=60t+chainring
Get the 60t by 110mm, it fits right on there: no muss no fuss. They also come in black which probably would have been the better choice to stay color coordinated.
 
Looks good, good to see a result practicaly identical to my future plans.
Did you have to add any links to the chain?

See that you still are running stock pedals, i would recommend switching to clip-less, enables you to pedal faster and you dont risk running over your legs if you hit a bump or pothole.
 
I had to add quite a few links. I am 6'3" so the chain was too short from the start, then with the 60 tooth attached I was really out there. The bike shop owner was kind enough to just give me some chain, and the master link was about $2.

The chaining definitely needs something to keep the chain from bouncing off. I think I am going to buy some plastic and make a little barrier that keeps the chain from jumping off.
 
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