KT Controller Accesory Output

[trufinv]

Hello, I have a 18 fet 50A KT Controller and I was wondering if anyone knows where I can hook up on the board for a positive output that turns on when the display is on.
I need to use that for accesories (horn, turn signals, DRL, brake light, etc).
Ideally it would handle more than 1A.
Thanks in advance!


UPDATE: I decided to use the controller 5v output to trigger the accesories line. At first I used a small 5v relay. That worked for a day or two but 48v for the contacts is just too much for most relays as they can't handle the spark.
Now I use a irf3205 to do the switching along with a 10kohm 1/4w resistor (to stop the gate from floating) and it's been great so far.
I will install this in the controller next time I open it.

 

[E-HP]

Hello, I have a 18 fet 50A KT Controller and I was wondering if anyone knows where I can hook up on the board for a positive output that turns on when the display is on.
I need to use that for accesories (horn, turn signals, DRL, brake light, etc).
Ideally it would handle more than 1A.
Thanks in advance!

Battery level voltage?

 

[From-A-To-B]

Battery level voltage?

+1 on that. In my experience, KT controllers don’t have an output that’s good for the 1A you need. I’ve fried two headlight circuits by running an LED headlight and taillight at the same time. The rated capacity of their accessory circuits is low.

Wouldn’t be so hard to tap your battery lines and find a switch that good for 2amps to run your accessories.

 

[trufinv]

+1 on that. In my experience, KT controllers don’t have an output that’s good for the 1A you need. I’ve fried two headlight circuits by running an LED headlight and taillight at the same time. The rated capacity of their accessory circuits is low.

Wouldn’t be so hard to tap your battery lines and find a switch that good for 2amps to run your accessories.

The transistor that's on the lights circuit seems to be rated at 1A on mine:
However I need an output that is available even when the light is off. So basically, as soon as I turn the bike display on, just a simple +48v for my misc accesories.

 

[trufinv]

Battery level voltage?

Not sure I understand. Could you elaborate a bit please? Thanks.

 

[AGS]

I have been looking into this lately for my Greaser and I decided that a dc to dc converter would be more appropriate for my needs. Then a 12 volt, 5 amp output can run my ancillaries and I can use normal switches and bulbs rated at 12v. I don’t really want to have battery voltage across horn, lights and indicator switches or I could have arcing problems across the contacts. And then I can use a motorcycle flasher relay for indicators and a nice loud 12v horn. Would still need a few relays though to keep the current through the switches low for the lights and horn, but I have plenty of room inside the faux fuel tank.

Something like this: DC-DC Converters

This switch will work at 12 - 48v, but if you scroll down it says not recommended for loads over 1 amp and to use a relay.

Handlebar Light Horn On/Off Signal Indicator Switch Electric Bike Motorcycle

Handlebar Light Horn On/Off Signal Switch The green button is a NORMALLY OPEN MOMENTARY switch that is suitable for a horn.The red button functions both as a MOMENTARY (half press) and LATCHING ON/OFF (full press) switch. Depending on the setup, I've used it for both a light switch and an...

torquetech.co.uk

 

[trufinv]

I have been looking into this lately for my Greaser and I decided that a dc to dc converter would be more appropriate for my needs. Then a 12volt 4amp output can run my ancillaries and I can use normal switches rated at 12v. I don’t really want to have battery voltage across horn, lights and indicator switches or I could have arcing problems across the contacts. And then I can use a motorcycle flasher relay for indicators and a nice loud 12v horn.

I also use a 12v 3a stepdown for most my accesories. The thing is I don't want it always powered, just when my display is on. My old controller had several 48v outputs I could use.

 

[AGS]

I have been searching for a solid state relay that works at above 52v to put on the KT light circuit, but all I have seen so far are at 24 volts max. I originally wanted to have a rear light as well as the front light without the risk of blowing up the lighting pcb.

I don’t want to risk running both a front and rear light directly on the output from my KT48 controller.

 

[E-HP]

Not sure I understand. Could you elaborate a bit please? Thanks.

It wasn't clear to me in your original post whether your lights required battery voltage (e.g. 48V, 52V, etc.) or some other standard voltage (12V, 5V). Looks like battery voltage. You may want to check out this circuit:

KT controller 2x Light output

Hi all, I got this controller (KT-6S5-C 2018-1-8) recently and I'm a bit scared of plugging lights without some testing before. There are two outputs from controller (on board these are brown and white wire). My battery is 36v and just measured the lights with a multimeter on 200mA. Front...

endless-sphere.com

 

[trufinv]

It wasn't clear to me in your original post whether your lights required battery voltage (e.g. 48V, 52V, etc.) or some other standard voltage (12V, 5V). Looks like battery voltage. You may want to check out this circuit:

KT controller 2x Light output

Hi all, I got this controller (KT-6S5-C 2018-1-8) recently and I'm a bit scared of plugging lights without some testing before. There are two outputs from controller (on board these are brown and white wire). My battery is 36v and just measured the lights with a multimeter on 200mA. Front...

endless-sphere.com

That is one option I am considering at this point. Might just use a +5v (from the pas for example) and through a fet to have a ground activated once I turn on the display.

 

[amberwolf]

If you want the lights to come on any time the display itself is turned on, then assuming your display turns the controller itself on at the same time, then here are a few thoughts:

The display uses a tiny transistor inside it to control whether or not battery voltage is passed to the KSI (keyswitch/ignition) line from display to controller. This is very low current, so it cannot run lights directly, but:

This powers the controller's LVPS (low volage power supply) which provides 12v and 5v (and sometimes 15v or 3.3v) to the controller's brain, inputs, etc, including the power to run PAS, motor halls, throttle, etc.

So you can use a small relay whose control line is powered by either the KSI line itself, or any of the LVPS voltages (5v, 12v, etc), and that relay would be wired to switch main battery voltage to your lights (assuming they are that voltage, if not then it would switch battery voltage to a DC-DC that then powers the lights).

Which specific relay you need to use depends on what control voltage you use, and on what voltage it needs to switch, and how much current all of your lights will draw thru it (or the DC-DC if there is one).

 

[trufinv]

If you want the lights to come on any time the display itself is turned on, then assuming your display turns the controller itself on at the same time, then here are a few thoughts:

The display uses a tiny transistor inside it to control whether or not battery voltage is passed to the KSI (keyswitch/ignition) line from display to controller. This is very low current, so it cannot run lights directly, but:

This powers the controller's LVPS (low volage power supply) which provides 12v and 5v (and sometimes 15v or 3.3v) to the controller's brain, inputs, etc, including the power to run PAS, motor halls, throttle, etc.

So you can use a small relay whose control line is powered by either the KSI line itself, or any of the LVPS voltages (5v, 12v, etc), and that relay would be wired to switch main battery voltage to your lights (assuming they are that voltage, if not then it would switch battery voltage to a DC-DC that then powers the lights).

Which specific relay you need to use depends on what control voltage you use, and on what voltage it needs to switch, and how much current all of your lights will draw thru it (or the DC-DC if there is one).

Thanks for the reply. This makes sense. Using a relay with a small current draw is clearly much easier. I haven't measured yet, but from what I read on the forum it seems my controller has a 15v line, so not sure 12v relays are good option, but I might just try using a 5v relay for this.
I will probably not even try using the kt controller light output as people say it is likely to smoke after more than 100ma. And not a big fan of press and hold to turn on anyway.
Probably an external light switch will be better.

 

[AGS]

I’m thinking about using this SSR on the lights output with a 1N5359 24 volt zener diode across it to limit the voltage to well within its operating range and replacing the 51 ohm resistor with a 1k ohm 2 watt resistor To limit the current through the zener diode and SSR.

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Searching for an appropriate SSR is frustrating because most suppliers don’t quote the trigger current. So I selected the 1K resistor to provide between 30 to 50mA through the diode depending upon battery voltage and hoping there is enough current to keep the Zener voltage constant and supply the SSR input at the same time.

And there isn’t a huge selection of SSRs that are rated for DC output, most of them are AC only.

Has anyone done anything similar with the KT lights output?