KT Controller numbers and compatibility

[E-HP]

BUT,BUT,BUT I have one question: DOES THIS JUMPER METHOD GUARANTEE THAT THE "PAS" SYSTEM SHOULD WORK??

Guarantee? Serious? Nobody is going to guarantee anything, if you want that, go to the manufacturer, or pay someone to fix it for you. Folks here are trying to help you diagnose a problem, not guarantee a solution. Jumpering is a diagnosing step, that eliminates the LCD from the equation. If the PAS works when jumpered, but doesn't with the LCD, that provides a clue. You don't need to try it, especially if you need a guarantee before doing so.

 

[TommyCat]

PLEASE DON'T TAKE ME WRONG.... I APPRECIATE ANY AND ALL HELP HERE

No worries there my friend. We are all just trying to help, and keeping the facts straight and meanings of tests and procedures clarified are a must. I think you're doing very well putting up with everything. And thanks for the re-posting of the manual link... last time I tried the old one it didn't work. Always nice to be on the same page.

Thanks for the latest checks information.


I believe with no display present, your controller as set now (C3=8) will look to the last gear setting used and revert to that.
Or use the other gear settings on start up as set by parameter C3.

Previously I was looking ahead to the jumping of the display when discussing the "gear" position.
If I'm reading this correctly, with the setting you have now, your gear position when you shut down the system with the C3 parameter set to 8. Should be restored when you power back up.
See: C3, page 23.
Is it? I.E. Set your gear to 3 on the LCD display. And when you reboot your system, does it automatically start in gear 3?

Or if you set parameter C3 to number 5, does the LCD gear start in 5 after rebooting system?

Looking to see if your display PAS communication is working...

Questions:
1. Does the jumper method utilize the PAS system for sure?

I believe so as described above...

2. What kink of data is in the #4 wire (the Green TX wire??

That's a great question, could the throttle, PAS and brake indicators be all received information?
Hopefully the tests above will help...


3. If the throttle works, and there are only 3 phase wires running to the motor, there can't be a motor issue?? Right??

I would agree.

 

[Dunlop]

PLEASE DON'T TAKE ME WRONG.... I APPRECIATE ANY AND ALL HELP HERE

I think you're doing very well putting up with everything.
I feel like it is more the other way around - THANK YOU ALL FOR YOUR HELP/INPUT!!!

I believe with no display present, your controller as set now (C3=8) will look to the last gear setting used and revert to that.
Or use the other gear settings on start up as set by parameter C3.

****From what i read today the jumper mode sets it at 2 or 3....*****

Previously I was looking ahead to the jumping of the display when discussing the "gear" position.
If I'm reading this correctly, with the setting you have now, your gear position when you shut down the system with the C3 parameter set to 8. Should be restored when you power back up.
See: C3, page 23.
Is it? I.E. Set your gear to 3 on the LCD display. And when you reboot your system, does it automatically start in gear 3?

Or if you set parameter C3 to number 5, does the LCD gear start in 5 after rebooting system?

Looking to see if your display PAS communication is working...

Questions:
1. Does the jumper method utilize the PAS system for sure?

Everything communicates fine! C3 = 8 is my setting, and it always reboots where it was left it. I tried all other C3 settings (0-5) and it reboots just as it should (in the proper gear)... Everything working fine here!!


I did quite a lot of searching today, to see if the "Jumper Method" includes the usage of the PAS or just the throttle?? I can't find a darn thing that shows the motor running using the pedals, while being "Jumpered"..

So tonight I am down to just one question:
Can anyone confirm the PAS system works when the KT controller is jumper-ed to work (as described above), without a LCD hooked up??

Thank you,
Keith

 

[Dunlop]

Hi All, I'm back.... to explain what I found in the last weeks, and sum up this thread in case someone is reading with the same problem. So the real problem turns out that there is a little button on the bottom side of the throttle that is a switch that toggles between PAS and throttle.... Yup, no mention in the owners manual (which covers all models of BPM bikes), and even the salesman didn't know about it (because he has never ridden this model). I finally talked to the technician, who explained about the button, and it is the "q" in the controller part number that indicates it is a switching controller.

There is a yellow wire and a blue wire running to what is usually a horn button on most bikes. The yellow is always +5v. The usual momentary horn button is replaced with a push button toggle switch. In the off position, you get PAS operation.... close the switch, the +5v goes back down the blue wire, into the controller, where something is being switched... allowing only the output of throttle to be recognized.

I now own 3 controllers.... 2 are the "q" type switching units, and 1 other non-switching type (this one works with both PAS and throttle both - which is what I wanted all along).

So in an effort to make the "q" type controllers useful(to make it Non-switching", for a back-up) I started thinking "They must be switching either the power or ground going to the PAS or throttle"......... WRONG!! The new "q" controller is the exact same part number as the original, but it is made slightly different... The power and ground for both PAS and throttle are supplied from the same 2 wires coming out of the controller. So both sensors have power at all times when the controller is powered up.. Which leads me to CONCLUDE: The signal from the sensors might be switched, or the entire output of one sensor or the other is not going through to the motor! (Remember: The operation of either the PAS or throttle always shows up on the LCD, whether or not that output is being used!!).... Either way, the switching happens inside of the controller, which is over my head, and capability.

If anyone thinks they can figure out what is going on here, I will gladly send them a controller to play with!!!!!

I really would like to thank Amberwolf, Tommycat, and everyone else for their thoughts and input!!!! I have learned so much in the process... It's too bad it is a issue that can't be wired around, or jumpered, making these 2 controllers viable back-up units.

 

[Comrade]

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=116678&p=1721078#p1721735

So "ZW" stands for dual-mode, i.e. hall-ed and hall-less mode.