Landyachtz TopSpeed 90mm 10S4P DualRearDrive

whitepony said:
yea, feels just like that! bushing setup made all the difference as usual, ill most likely play around 30kph anyway for the endless wave surfing. what i like about eskateboards is not the cheap (and now also pretty fast) commute, but the carving. :)

really happy how the top speed feels, the awesome krank formula really just works, its so versatile! the increased stiffness helped 30kph carving too - got less of a turny, but more precision feel now! concave at the flares is a little bit too high for long distance cruising though. at the same time i love the locked in feel when i carve deep. bit torn about this feature at the moment, its my first board with such flares! :)
Click to expand...

I run stiff bushings board side and slightly softer bushings roadside on the rear truck only. I get the locked in feeling when riding straight yet I can still get really quick response when I need it.
 
think its awesome to fiddle with bushings - can change a mediocre running board into an awesome one. its something I never seem to find on this forum, which is weird knowing the impact a dialed in truck has on your riding experience! or maybe most people simple dont babble about that and leave it to the silverfish forums! 8)

ran another 25km tour today and Im so in love with the overall setup. so smooth and lightning fast and at the same time really no rattling at all. Im not really sure if I will still use my evolve in the future. the 90mm abecs with the shock pads really make this a floating experience and the grip is so much better compared to the evolve with kegels. the softest abecs are super juicy, even on rough pavement they give enough grip to carve without worries - didnt expect such a big difference to the kegels.

the top speed is definitely sleeping in my bed tonight :D
 
I prepared all balancer cables on the battery just in case, but they arent plugged into a BMS - Im using them to check the cell status manually every now and then. meanwhile the torqueboard and evolve ESCs deal with the lower cell voltage shut down on their own (which so far has never been an issue - both batteries are designed to last about 50km, which is longer than I do).

for balancer cables, check this picture:
Battery_Folded.jpg



the experience of my evolve carbon 10S6P battery has taught me, that quality cells have pretty much no drift at all. I checked regularly every 2 weeks since creation of the battery and so far the 10 parallel packs have been on the exact same voltage up to 1/100th volt, and thats with 16km daily commute + weekend tours, i.e. heavy use.

after that experience, I went with that for the new battery as well - got the balancer cables out and whenever I feel like it I manually check with my voltmeter about the health of the parallel packs.

for charging I use the evolve charger, didnt want to buy a new charger when I already had everything. the silent version of the evolve charger is CC/CV charging up to 41.4V. its not fast, but so far I never felt like going again right away! Im quite happy that the charger isnt maxxing out the battery (42V), because that gives me SOME room for potential drift if that should ever occur. :)
 
Ok. So you didn't wire them into a 10s JST-XH connector? If I wanted to do that how would I wire it? I tried to find some info on the internet but I am hoping that you know how.

I might try and build one for my next build and use an iCharger that can charge 10s batteries. That's why I would like to know where the balance cables go.

Thanks for any replies! You are very good.
 
i did that on my evolve battery - soldered every tiny pin and clipped it into the bms jst 11-pin plug. that is the kind of work that drives me insane, fingers just too large. spent a night cursing cause the pins kept dropping on the floor. :p

you can see it on my heatshrinkfail picture of the evolve thread :)
heatshrinkfail.jpg
 
Ok. Do you plug them in a specific order other then positive on the left and ground on the right?
 
lox897 said:
Ok. Do you plug them in a specific order other then positive on the left and ground on the right?
Click to expand...

it probably depends on the BMS, I just measured how they were connected on my evolve and went with that - basically ascending order from one to the other direction (sorry, I just dont remember anymore). its basically a series of 10x 3.6V if you just measure neighboring pin pairs.

@subcreative: for spot welding, check out the 2nd post in my evolve thread where I built the most simplistic version of a spot welder that has really worked well for me so far: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=70435&sid=5b08c6200ab1a08bad3a777d43c009d6#p1062504

in that thread, the very resourceful riba2233 responded with his way more sophisticated version of a spot welder, that uses a car battery as power source and works with adjustable double pulses: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=68865

and yea, I also think building your own battery is something that will become increasingly more interesting in the next years. I recently made a replacement battery for my parents battery powered vaccum cleaner - it has triple the capacity now and my mum was so happy. :D
 
been using the evolve to shop some food ... it feels slow now and I really miss the concave. :(

what Im still not getting used to is the accelerating/braking of the top speed. I cant put my finger on it yet, but it feels a lot worse than my evolve. maybe its the delay of the wiiceiver acceleration with the ever suprising onset of the acceleration when it blends in, or maybe acceleration is just too high in general? maybe its the cruise control button that works not on the current velocity, but on the current nunchuck lever position (which is somewhat annoying when you shift your grip to hit the C button and while you do that you change the lever position slightly -> wopsi, it will cruise control to that and change your current speed!), maybe its the braking that does not fade out or the braking that starts in a really binary way -> little drag, medium drNVMLOL FULL BRAKING! :p the evolves acceleration sets in super smooth - so smooth that I feel comfortable accelerating in any position. on the landyachtz i dont carve until i reached cruise control speed. wonder how gt2b combos work, are you guys happy with those? maybe Im just spoilt with the evolve.

if I could change something, it would be cruise control from current motor rpm and not current lever position, thats for sure! think I would also change the brake force like the evolve does: starting strong and soften it up when you go slower and I would need to fiddle with the way the acceleration sets in. also, strong is too strong for me right now, next time I open the shrinktube, Ill decrease my ESC braking power to 50-60% and probably also limit acceleration which is currently not limited. maybe I should actually have a look at the austindavid wiiceiver code on github. :?

overall everything is holding up well though, been going to work twice and back now, horrible tiled pavement parts, 50km/h street parts, board is pretty dusty and motors/mounts are quite chipped already. :p
 
Hop on the GT2B BadWolf Train! Haha. Or have a look at TorqueBoards 2.4ghz transmitter.

This is a (really bad) diagram I made for nickel bands and where to put them. The top is the 4s1p's in series and the bottom is the other side. Grey is nickel band. Red = positive. Black = negative.
 

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Where the black or red lines go over the grey (nickel band) thats where the nickel band stops.
 
lox, I really dont get it :p

do you mean 4S1P or 1S4P packs? what kind of battery you want to make anyway, also a 10S4P? despite what dnmun said in this thread, its easiest to start with the elementary 1S4P units for structural support when you handle things later - you align 4 battery with all cells "+" top and "-" botton and bridge them with 2 nickel strips over 4 cells top & bottom.

ah well, before I talk much, I made a quick drawing of my current battery - maybe that helps you as well. keep in mind the tips that dnmun gave in this thread - could completely disregard all parallel connections for example and really start with 10S1P packs.

battery10S4P.jpg

notice how the outer series connections have copper reinforced connections for high flow, the middle connections however have 4 nickel strips, which seemed good enough as "reinforcement" for the large currents. basically all series connections need to be strong, all parallel connections dont really matter, but give you usually structural support.


here you see the "middle" of my drawing before I folded the battery so that it actually looks like in the keynote sketch - 4 nickel strips form a series connection between "+" and "-":
Battery_PreFoldingMiddle.jpg



and this is top and bottom (still folded) - here you can see the copper reinforced nickel strip connections over 8 cells (which are again the series connections of 2 parallel 1S4P packs):
Battery_PreFoldingOuter.jpg



hope its more clear now! if you have more questions just pm me. :)
 
Thankds dude! All clear now. I wasn't sure which way the batteries were facing so that diagram really helped. Thanks for all the effort you have put in to helping me. Appreciate it!
 
first 200km on the clock, board is holding up well except for my continuous small quality of life annoyances with the nunchuck.

sometimes my cruise control button releases without me wanting it to, so the wiiceiver switches to nunchuck lever control in that moment - which is (strongly :| ) filtered for positive accelerations, but raw for negative. usually the lever is in neutral position in most moments, so nothing bad happens. but imagine you are just about to decrease your cruise speed and because you rearrange your grip slighty, the "C" button releases somehow (because the nunchuck is a little bitch!!!): BOOM, full and immediate brake manoeuvre out of nowhere. I nearly crashed like that twice now, so Im actually not decreasing speed anymore in cruise control mode because its just too dangerous with my current brake settings. :?

whats really getting on my nerves is the filtering function of the wiiceiver: its okish for low speeds (also way too slow in my opinion), but its REALLY annoying at high speeds. my typical scenario: cruising with 30-40kph, give way inc, so letting the board coast very early. no car in sight, gogo throttle 75%ish and wait for the wiiceiver/ESCs to pick up. but I wait and wait and wait until finally the acceleration sets in ... or not cause your throttle position was slightly below the current coasting speed - there is no way of knowing for something that feels like an eternity. I really need a more immediate response of the system, just not in a way that throws me off right away - like for example raw input isnt working for me either, because the nunchuck is not a very good & sensitive controller. can tell from braking: nothing, slight response, FULL BRAKE. there is nothing in between somehow. :|

still wondering if i should give the wiiceiver 2.0 software a try, start fiddling with it myself, or try something that is actually made to control RC cars like the gt2b. :?


otherwise: 50kph is demanding its tribute - motors, motormounts and trucks are chipped quite a bit. with that speed, one picks up quite some stuff with the front wheels, which is then conveniently picked up midair by the rear motor section. :lol:

200km.jpg
 
WP - HA! Great update. If you've only "nearly crashed" i'm impressed. I'd be tumbling down the road...

My GF loves the soft acceleration of her wiiceiver setup. It works ok to me, but i don't expect much on her board so it hasn't annoyed me yet. I think her avg speed the last time we rode around alki was 5mph, top speed 10mph. She likes slow and steady.

anyway - i vote GT2B! If you lived closer i'd send you one i have that's a spare in the badwolf enclosure. Great setup and definitely feels more accurate and responsive than the wiiceiver. Though i'm also tempted to try swapping the internals from Vedder into her Nunchuk...

GL!
 
No disrespect to all the work that has been done to get the wiiceiver to where it is today, it is a great piece of hardware, but it has no business on a board with a top speed as high as yours. The possibility of losing connection due to interference or automatic time-out and going into drag-brake at speed is terrifying at 30+mph!
 
didnt have signal drops yet so far, was told to solder the receiver directly to the wiiceiver instead of using the usb connection if I ever had that problem - made sense to me. 8)

Id just like to have a better resolution for braking and a less filtered signal for acceleration. still LOVE the cruise control button :)

its quite interesting what you say though - going neutral from 50kph isnt unstable or frightening at all - maybe a consequence of dual drive vs. your single drive. there is no sudden steering impuls or anything similar that would shake up the board. is that different for your single drive @ 50kph?
 
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