FWIW, the (battery) amp rating of the controller hasn't anything to do with the phase wire size, directly. Indirectly the higher the battery amp rating, the higher the phase currents *can* be. Only a few controllers (like Kelly) rate their controllers based on phase amps, rather than battery amps.
The phase wire currents can be MUCH higher than the battery current. (it's just how brushless controllers and motors work; there are a number of threads if you're interested in the details).
When the webpage builders list the mm size as just mm (diameter), and not mm squared (area), I think they likely don't know how to show the "squared" on there, or they don't understand it. Or it just got lost along the way somewhere when the information was passed around from person to person before it got to the site, as someone didn't know what it meant or was confused, so left it out.
It could even be like the numerous ebike kit / bicycle sellers that use amps for everything, instead of separating amps and amp-hours. They don't understand it so they figure it will just confuse their buyers, instead of learning what it means so they can explain it and get people the right stuff for the right task. :/ (we've had a few here that flat out refused to use the correct terminology even when it was explained to them).
Most of the "best" bicycle-class (generally around 1kw or less, but even up to 2kw) hubmotors have 12awg at best, more commonly 14awg. So I would bet that none of the leafmotor stuff (at least not the ones discussed in this thread) has anything bigger than 12awg.
I find it funny that these companies use too thin a phase wire for some of the motors (given some of the advertised ratings/applications), yet they use too thick a spoke on the wheels. If they just reversed that, they'd be making a much better product.
10awg doesn't fit thru the axle hole on this general class of motors--not three at once plus hall/etc wires and a jacket around them. The only way I've managed to fit that size or bigger is by using solid core magnet wire (out of a welder transformer), and either leaving out all the sensor wires, or using really small gauge with thin insulation, and stuffing them between the magnet wires (or using no jacket at all on the phase wires, which risks a short from chafing). The motor I'm still using like that, an MXUS3k (which is really more like a small scooter motor) had to have the axle modified to allow me to run one of the wires out one axle, and the other pair out the other axle, so that I could also run the sensor wires too, and still have an insulation jacket on each phase wire to avoid chafing thru the magnetwire enamel over time.
When you get to scooter and moped motors, you start seeing some that come with 10awg, even 8awg phase wires, but they also have massively larger axles (so the bigger hole in them is less of a structural compromise).
