LEE Iaccoca 36 Volt 500 Watt needs Controller? Help a girl o

terr513

terr513

10 mW
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Jun 24, 2012
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LEE Iaccoca 36 Volt 500 Watt needs Controller? Help a girl out

I have been trying to find a controller for a LEE Iaccoca 36 Volt 500 Watt Brushed Motor
I have replaced the Throttle, Battery 8AH SLA, Derailleur, Chain Etc, The battery is putting out 37 volts but on the other side of the controller the motor is only receiving 17 Volts
This list came from the Service Manual, but there is no listing for the Motor or Battery and Accessory and Throttle are very veg in description. Would I ever get it hooked up?
I have been told I will never find one, but I'm trying to get as close as possible.
(From E Bike Owner Service Manual) not much help
CONNECTOR IDENTIFICATION
Reference Number Component/Function Connector Type
A 5 amp fuse
B Accessory control (left side) 6-pin
C Throttle control (right side) 7-pin
D Brake sensor, right 2-pin
E Brake sensor, left 2-pin
F Taillight 4-pin
G Horn (1 red and 1 black wire) 3-pin
H Headlight (1 white and 1 black wire) 3-pin

We apologize, but we do not have any controller that will even come close to those specifications. What makes your controller unique (and thus hard to replace) is how many wires the throttle requires. All of our controllers are designed for throttles with 3 or 4 wires, so they would not be compatible with yours.

Thank you,

Andrew C.
Monster Scooter Parts
800-798-0325 ext. 113
www.monsterscooterparts.com


This answer is what I have been getting.

This controller is from a different company think it might work?

http://www.electricscooterparts.com/hookup/SPD-611B9wiring.html

This diagram for controller came from http://www.electricscooterparts.com/speedcontrollers36volt.html

They also have three other controllers to choose from, bike does not have reverse.

I have owned this bike for 2Yrs still have not had a ride. :|
 
The controllers can be found but are very expensive. Your best bet is to replace the controller and throttle. Get a 36 volt set from a razor or a currie.
 
It does sound like a controller problem. That bike has been out of production for years, and unfortunatly, so have the parts. You may find a controller on Ebay, but right now all that is listed is the 24v controller, at $135.

You will likely have better luck converting it to a generic Brushed controller, but that will likely need a new throttle as well. the good news is that can be done for under $50. The bad news is you will likely have to splice in your own connectors. The wiring won't be the same.

The Iaccoca is a great bike, but the electronic parts are a bit out dated now. Physicaly, it would be a hard bike to replace with a better bike. But electricaly, it could be upgraded. Dogman here on the forums had a 36V Iaccoca, and can probably recomend a conversion kit that would work well with the bike.
 
Thank you for the link but I did not understand the chart. I do have a mobility scooter repair man that said he would help me hook up what I needed but trying to figure out which C & TH to purchase is a challenge. Can I reach Dogman somehow?
 
At one point, I was seeing ebay ads for stock EVG parts. Somebody had parted a few of them out. Never know, so perhaps you could find em again on the bay some time.

It would be very difficult for me to help you keep any of the stock stuff, switches and such on the handlebars. It might be doable to keep the switch for the lights.

I did as the others advise with my EVG, and stripped everything except the onboard charger off the bike. I moved the headlight to a bike I actually rode at night. The controller was already long gone when I got it.

I would look for a new controller in the 15-20 amps power range. About 500w should do it if they don't list controller amps. I seem to vaguely recall that the stock one was 17 amps or thereabouts. Buy a new half twist throttle to go with it, so you can just plug it in and go.

The new wiring will be fairly simple, + and - in from the battery, and same out to the motor. throttle plug will match the new controller. Then the controller may have an on off switch wire, and likely will have brake cutoff wires that you can use or not. If you don't use a keyswitch, then you will have to at least connect the keyswitch wires.

Anyway, once you get the new controller, good pictures of it and identify any labels on the wires, and we'll be able to walk you through what to connect where. It should be pretty simple to run new wiring to the lights, using an ordinary switch installed into the plastic frame covers to controll on and off.
 
I have a spare 36 volt evg controller. It came off a working bike and is used.
$90.00 shippied in the US.
Interested? let me know and I will make sure it works.
Edit
How much testing have you done? There can be issues with contacts from the battery box to the bike. Check the fuse holder in the battery box is it a bit melted?
 
Thank you VERY much. I will try to find a replacement Controller and Throttle. I would be hesitant to buy one from Ebay may not be any better than the one I have.
I'm going on a hunt.
Sorry Would the Half Twist Throttle run it Slow and Fast or just O to Fast burn out style?
 
Thank you Icewrench,
I should take it over to the guy that works on Mobility Scooters let him look at it first. I did check the fuse on the battery packs, was not blown but I changed it anyway. I believe there is also a small fuse on the controller i will go check that out and replace.
 
Fair price for a very rare controller. I'd be inclined to go for that, once you rule out stuff like the brake cutoffs shutting off the controller, keyswitch, fuses, etc.

Part of the strip it approach for me was to get the hell rid of as much wiring as possible. Battery, controller,trottle, that's it. very quick to check the plugs if it won't run.
 
Hi Guys:
I took the fuse out of the controller it was not blown but the terminals were dark.

I cleaned inside the connectors before replacing with a new one.

No help.
I am attaching a video of the bike and how it sounds, the reason I did not replace the controller last year is I'm not sure if the motor is any good. Can you tell anything from the video?
 
your controller is fine. A new one wont help. Your motor is bad. Gears porbably.
 
Could be gears or could be the clutch. I had a clutch fail on a geared Fusin hub motor and it sounded pretty much just like that.

I'm not sure which motor is on that bike, so I don't know it's clutch design.

Clutch might be repairable or might need to be replaced. On my Fusin I was able to put a hose clamp around the clutch to hold it tight enough to ride with to get me home. It might well have held for much longer, but I did not test it further. I will be trying to repair the clutch by welding at some point, though not likely soon.

http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=550415#p550415

file.php
 
So the motor is ca-put,
Well I did not think it was suppose to sound like that. :cry: I thought it was because it is only getting 17 volts down by the quick connect to the motor. Well I am glad I have you guys to help, but I can not afford a rebuild and I am not knowledgeable enough to install a new kit. I do know that some places rebuild these motors but cost would probably be the same as your suggestion to kit it, and I still would not know why it is only getting 17 volts to it.
 
Dogman suggested brake cutoffs shutting off the controller and my brakes don't seem to release all the way and I have been suspect of the brake cutoffs because one is cracked on top and has been glued. Is there a way to trick the bike into believing the brakes on not on to check if it is causing a problem?
I realize this is moving chairs on a sinking titanic but would just like to know.
 
terr513 said:
Stupid girl question. Is my meter hooked up right for testing a 36Volt?
Click to expand...
Ja, looks ok. You can verify (roughly) by metering a 12V car battery to see where the needle indicates.

A digital meter might be easier; cheap ones cost about $4 at Harbor Freight.
 
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