LEE Iaccoca 36 Volt 500 Watt needs Controller? Help a girl o

ok, now we are getting somewhere. if there is a special clip that holds it in place, that may be loose so that the clutch does not have the needed force pushing on it axially to engage the clutch portion.

whatta find, also i was thinking there was someone with evg parts, ghoumouchar? recall someone with a name like that? another guy in corvallis here was asking too once.
 
It`s all press fit, gear to outside of one way bearing to inner support.
Inner support is a stainless hub held in by the screws that are mostly covered by the gear
Looks like the gear and bearing would take lots of heat from a torch on the gear to make it big enough to fall off,
is it a heat treated gear? Probably.
 
here is one, freewheel broken, never resolved:

http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=5403&p=81664#p81664

maybe dogman still has the burned up motor.

and this one:

http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=7593&p=115797#p115797
 
think of the reason for the clutch here. this is present so that the motor will be able to drive the wheel through the helical gear but when the bike is coasting or propelled by the chain through the cassette then the clutch freewheels and the motor is not forced to turn.

what if the clutch were locked? then the motor would have to turn all the time, how big a problem is this?

i got to thinking about this in a roundabout way. thinking of why the sprague clutch doesn't engage.

i see grease, lotsa grease. i was thinking why not spray the entire clutch, or the engaging pawls part of it with cleaner so the grease is stripped. would that increase the chance of the clutch engaging?

i think only Miles understands how they work, so if the bike is gonna be non functional anyway, why not go ahead and clean the clutch with solvent until it looks like shine on the bearings inside. then reassemble and put it back on the controller to see if the wheel will now pull when the motor drives.

if it will finally drive the wheel, then run it like that until the freewheeling part seizes up and you have to drag the motor along while coasting or pedaling. this is not a load carrying bearing, there are needle bearings underneath that carry the weight of the hub so they should be protected from the solvent and grease should remain on them permanently, but if the clutch will engage with less or no grease, then maybe the downside is only that you have to ride the bike on the throttle all the time, no pedaling. or coasting, but it may still coast yet.

if we are stuck with no ride because this clutch won't engage, i would go for the whole hawg method of fixing things. kinda like using a gear clamp to hold the planetary gears together long enuff to drive home like our #1 genius did.

if degreasing is not enuff, maybe go to the next step, physical abuse. slip a socket over the bearing and whack on it some, 50-50 chance you are whacking in the right way. worth the try imo.

or if you are into abuse already start with that. or both, whatever it takes. you got this far.
 
Trying to convince her to make a low ball offer on a spare low mile 24 volt take off motor in my collection.
The 36 volt motor is a direct drop in.
 
Gmouchawar was the heinzmann guru here. Could try a pm, maybe he's still around. I already sent my burnt motor to a guy who needed a clutch years ago.

Occasional motors on Ebay get sold.
 
Thank you Dumun, I don't understand your post but others will. If the mechanic sprays the hell of this freewheel with Carb cleaner, shoots some compressed air into it,,,say this gets it to engage would WD40 be heavy enough to run in it?
 
Wd is not a long term lubricant.
If cleaning gets it to working I would add a few drops of motor oil and ride ride ride.

Good luck
 
Thank you - Ride Ride Ride sounds so nice. Have owned this and added new parts for Two years has never been around the block. :(
Called Heinzmann for advice or see if they could fix Closed for the Holiday. Pounding the shit out of it as one person suggested seems like a good option :lol: just kidding.

I PMed Gmouchawar maybe he has some thoughts.
 
there is a needle bearing behind or under that clutch bearing. that needle bearing has to have grease since the weight of the hub rides on those bearings.

maybe hold it upside down and spray the solvent up into the sprague clutch so the solvent drains away from the needle bearings.

you will need to pack that needle bearing more later, from the other side of the case where the end of the needle bearing is accessable.

i have no way to even guess if that works. just desperate measure. but i figured the downside is a locked up clutch, which means you would always be on the throttle or off when the motor would slow you down. but it may not seize up, and of course it may never actually engage from flushing the grease out either.

ps: you don't wanna have to rely on LEVT. unless your middle name is moneybags. and your last name is patience.
 
Thank you, Would it be SAFE would not seize up and throw me off? If you think it is Safe I will print this out and ask Mechanic to try.
 
Guys and Gals

I was PMed to participate which I'll gladly do.
I read this post. You so far you have gotten excellent help from this forums.
You ruled out the controller being the culprit. the 17V output could be a problem with the throttle. It is PWM and should swing from 0-36V average based on the throttle input. But that would just make the bike go slow so it isn't your only problem.
You know the motor hub is bad (not the motor itself).
There are 2 causes for a bad motor hub.
1- Slipping one way bearing: in this case the one way bearing still rotates in one direction, but it slips off the spindle (center metal piece). You can solve that by welding the bearing to the spindle. I did that on one of my bikes and its still going strong. I wouldn't bother with glues and retaining compounds. Just weld it in three spots around the spindle.
2- bad one way bearing: This case the bearing alone is worn but it still stuck to the spindle. I haven't encountered this and it is very rare. The repair is near impossible because it wasn't designed to be serviced. Although the one way bearing is commercial part and is available, it is impossible to take it out, at least by me. You need special extraction tools and heavy presses to do the job at a cost that exceeds the cost of the motor. A fully working used motor can be had $200.

My guess based on what I have seen is that you have issue #1 which is solvable.

I love those bikes. I ride a 24V for exercise most of the winter because it has good lights. I must say I only see the spindle issue with a 36V. It is a design flaw. They upped the torque on the motor when they went from 24V to 36V without doing anything else. So a spindle design that can take 24V now fails at 36V. That part is disappointing.

BTW I can't see any of your pictures but I don't think that will change my diagnosis.
If you need help locating spare parts please let me know.
Your alternative is replacing the rear wheel with a more modern brush-less setup which involves a major expense and effort. You will also loose some key features such as cruise control and lights. I had to do that on another bike when I fried the controller.

Good luck and let me know how it turns out.
 
So parts from a 24v, that is the cover piece, one way bearing and rim, would fit her 36v motor? That way she could shop for either a working 36v motor or a 24v motor.

Nice to see you are still avaliable if we have a problem I can't figure out.
 
I still have a working 36V motor, controller, throttle and the horn/cruise control switches from my EVG sx bike, if you are interested. They are just collecting dust in my garage.
 
Hi Guys Update, DO NOT DO THIS, PIN CRUNCHED, CAME LOOSE, TACK WELD AS SUGGESTED BY OTHERS ON FORUM.
Got the hub back from BOB the Mechanic, Great guy as you all are,,went way out of his way to help me, would not take a dime payment I tried twice just wants to see the bike when its on the road.
So to the fix, he said he took a carbide tip cone drill bit, air powered, drilled a hole and inserted a Hole Pin.

IMG_2633.jpg
 
Pretty good idea, that pin. (Two could be better, but one might be adequate.) Bob was smart to use a cone drill, those bearings are hard.

Looking forward to that vid. :D
 
congrats. that is a good fix. now you gotta fix the throttle so you can get full voltage and then you can do burnouts.

sorry i thought it was the gear on the motor, i never knew how many people had this problem until now.

you should put a sponsor sign on your bike for your mechanic. send work his way.
 
Those one way clutch bearings sometimes have a clog and or ball fliper ratchtce than engadges one direction or freewheels. So ??? .Hope they answer. Maybe I can see inside.
 
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