LEE Iaccoca 36 Volt 500 Watt needs Controller? Help a girl o

That is a problem in the motor / gear assembly.
I have a used take off motor like that but it has an unusual ocassional clunk in it. So not the best.
Maybe someone here has a decent 36 volt 500 watt Heinzmann motor sitting around.
Good luck.
 
You're doing alright asking good questions and doing some testing. Nothing to lose at this point with a tear down of the hub and see what's going on inside and if it can be repaired on the cheap. However, it might be best to plan for a new motor, controller, throttle and battery?

It's not a bad frame for an eBike but will require some budget to get rolling on a new driveline.
 
Since you have found it's the motor, it can't hurt to try to repair it. If it only needs a weld, sometimes a muffler shop mechanic can be talked into simple welds for beer money. Or JB weld it.

Or, a Plan B. Sell the controller. its worth some good money on Ebay. Sell the motor for parts. since it's not in production, someone may need the parts that still work. that may get you $100-150, maybe.

Then get a cheap kit like http://www.bmsbattery.com/ebike-kits/402-bafang-350watts500watts-bpm-motor-e-bike-kit.html $168. Its a light weight kit that will replace your motor, controller, and throttle while still being able to retain your battery. A Bafang is a far more modern brushless motor that should outlast the original (Heizman) motor and be more efficent, too.
 
Hi Guys, Sorry I was out moving furniture.
Don't you think I should investigate to see if the controller is working correctly first? If it is not working right fixing the motor may be a waste. I do think maybe I could find a place to take the motor with your help in getting it off, but I still question if the controller is any good.
 
If the motor is making noise, the controller is functioning. Maybe not properly, but it is functioning.

There could be a few reasons why you're only seeing 17 volts. The controller works with PWM. Something like AC. a digital meter would get erroneous readings trying to read it, but an Analog meter like yours has a better chance of seeing the Apparent voltage. The actual voltage is likely the full 41volts, but you would need an O-scope to see it. You would be getting full voltage, just not ful current.

I don't know enough about that controller's specs to state for sure. But the controller might be cutting the throttle back for various reasons, (fault detection, current limit, speed limit, ect). without a working motor, its difficult to tell what its doing, but if its putting out power, its working


Chalo's link shows the motor is still in production. you might try calling Heinzmann @ (888) 423-5388.
 
The evg bikes have a power / economy switch that might be in the econo mode.
The blue one on the left handlebar. Push the left side for full power.
Good luck
 
Thank you all for taking the time to help me. There is a guy down the street that puts motors and mufflers on reg bikes and sells them I will go see if he is interested. Your terminology has helped -the motor has the gear slipping on the motor shaft- I did read your link about repair but way over my head but will help if I can get someone around Hamilton Ohio to take a crack at it. Will also call about a replacement just to see how much $$$ it is.
You guys are awesome so knowledgeable! I have done much work on my cars myself, Plugs, Wires,Coil Packs, Alt's stuff like that
but this is something new to me, at least I know where to go for help :wink:
 
It's not often somebody new (M/F) arrives with such a well presented problem. 'wish you all the best with your bike and keep us posted how it works out?
 
I agree with the above, the motor is spinning on the shaft. Not having had that problem myself, I don't know much about the repair for it.

Too bad. But a kit to put a 36v brushless hubmotor on that bike does not cost all that much. Often they can be found for about 300-400 bucks. Maybe that sounds like a lot, but really it's not that much compared to new lithium batteries. You could use your existing batteries and charger, at least for awhile.

The bare frame is worth something to some ebikers, so maybe you could at least sell it off. People were getting good prices for controllers, lights, seats, battery and charger, etc. those are all easy to ship too.

To get to the gear shaft though, is very easy, just remove the cover plate. Nothing to lose by trying it now.

Or.... lurk on ebay, and maybe a good used heinsmann motor pops up.
 
Hi Guys Me again,
I do not have a clue what I am doing. Took to much apart I think. I am trying to take the motor somewhere tomorrow to have it spot welded as you suggested. But I do not know where to tell them to Tack it, even which side--don't know what is suppose to spin and what is not.
 
I read threw all the links that everyone gave me and I still do not know what I am doing. So I put everything in a box and will try and find a place tomorrow that will look at it.
 
Thank you dnmun ,
I would like to ask if they have to remove the screws and remove the cover and tack from underneath or tack down beside at the bottom of the blades where I have the white arrow? Just in case I end up at a muffler shop. :?
 
terr513 said:
Thank you dnmun ,
I would like to ask if they have to remove the screws and remove the cover and tack from underneath or tack down beside at the bottom of the blades where I have the white arrow? Just in case I end up at a muffler shop. :?

IMG_2612-1.jpg
Click to expand...

The sharp things you call blades are teeth of the gear. Anyone who is smart enough to weld it for you, will know exactly what to do. If they are at all puzzled, take it somewhere else. Maybe try a trade school where they teach mechanics or welding? If the gear is spinning, why does it not just pull off? If it pulls off, clean it and the shaft of all grease, really clean. Is there a bolt or clip holding it to the shaft? Is there a key in the shaft that is supposed to drive the gear?
I wonder why we can't find someone close to you, who would know exactly what to do?

Edit;
Could we have a picture of both side of the big gear?
 
From dnmun"]wipe the grease off the end of that little gear. you will see where the motor shaft turns inside that gear because the gear just slips onto the end of the shaft when they manufacture it and that is not strong enuff without a keyway to lock it on the shaft. it may now be loose enuff that you are able to pull it off by hand.

i was able to pull mine off and so i cleaned it and used the JB WELD epoxy. that was when i discovered bearing retainer too. love that stuff. like superglue to the max.

but if you are gonna weld it, then have them weld it on the end of the motor shaft inside the gear exposed when you wipe the grease off. spray the solvent right onto the end of the shaft so you can see the line where the shaft turns inside the gear, on that end.

the guy needs to tack that shaft to the gear without getting any welding sputter onto the gear faces so just light tack at low heat is best. he can put the ground clamp on the case, ask him not to build the weld up high or it will rub on the case when you put the end back over it. just tack it to keep it from slipping on the motor shaft.
 
So the weld should go here at the white spot? It is Teeny Tiny and shaft is 1/8 inch down in the hole. I have a very nice mechanic looking at it right now.

IMG_2607-1.jpg
 
yes at the joint between the shaft and the gear on that end. you gotta clean the grease off totally first. you can push the gear down to where it is flush on the end. the gear has moved up on the shaft and rubs on the inside of the cover opposite, you can see it in the tracks in the grease on the other piece. that is too far out so push the gear down flush to tack it.
 
New development--Mechanic said gears on motor don't seem to be slipping, actually motor looks brand new on the inside. Sorry I don't have a pic of big gear, we did take it apart but it is still with Mechanic. We have found what may be the problem

IMG_2611.jpg


the gear here is spinning frontward and backward freely. So when the small gear on the motor is spinning against it is not turning the wheel. The other side that holds the chain only spins one direction.
 
ok, that should freewheel only in the forward rotation of the wheel. there should be freewheel pawls inside that gear. i no longer have mine open to look. sounds like that guy already has a clue. but it did move eventually in your video so it is not totally free, gotta look underneath that gear imo.
 
That gear mounts on the one way clutch.
It shold only freely rotate one direction.
I have never tried to locate a replacement.

I opened my extra 24 volt motor and googled the part number csk25-s-n-d-c5 on the one way clutch and this might help

http://www.zxz-bearings.com/catalog/One-Way-Bearings.pdf
 
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