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LightningRods mid drive kit

lol you wish! we all started using those types out of the GNG drives long before anything else was around

Your memory fails you.

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Left to right halls,phase,two wire not sure what they are and what goes into the side of the motor?My bac 800 quit working so I’m going to try to use my nuc24.
 

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Hi Micah
The side of the motor is the encoder, which I installed in my older motors so that they could run ASI and other sine wave controllers. It sends out a hall signal so the hall plug is redundant. I hope you kept the 855 and it’s harness. You need the encoder plug on the end of it. It’s also your key as to which controller wires go to what. If you’re using a square wave now you can use the original hall plug if that’s easier. The two wires from the motor is the temp sender. Good luck!
 
I still have the connectors from the asi so I’m covered there.Should be pretty easy to change over to the nucular controller.I’d also like to put my name in the hat for the belt drive motor if possible.
 
The belt drive inquiry was for belt drive for the Qulbix swingarm drive, not my belt primary bottom bracket drive. The challenge with putting a belt drive on the Qulbix swingarm drive is that it's a one stage. 219 chain is just able to give us 8:1 in one stage with a 12T driver and 96T large driven sprocket. A cog belt needs a minimum 18T drive pulley. That drops the reduction with a similarly sized rear wheel sprocket to 5.33:1. Not really enough. A two stage belt could work fine. 2.83:1 in two stages = 8:1.
 
A 150 tooth 219. It’s big but not impossible to use I hope. I’m guilty of sometimes making purchases that have no intended use now. I get to them eventually. Not my pick on the weight saving cut outs I would have gone with a design more modern, but as always function first.
 

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That’s a whopper!
The actual issue with huge driven sprockets or pulleys is that they open up the angle of the chain at the driver and disengage teeth. This is more of a problem with belts than with chains. It both cases it increases the load per tooth on the driver and the chance of skipping
 
Skaiwerd said:
A 150 tooth 219. It’s big but not impossible to use I hope. I’m guilty of sometimes making purchases that have no intended use now. I get to them eventually. Not my pick on the weight saving cut outs I would have gone with a design more modern, but as always function first.

Omg! I love the freehub adapter on that. Do you have a super secret hub ratchet that will survive that kinda torque?
 
Skaiwerd said:
A 150 tooth 219. It’s big but not impossible to use I hope. I’m guilty of sometimes making purchases that have no intended use now. I get to them eventually. Not my pick on the weight saving cut outs I would have gone with a design more modern, but as always function first.

sir, there's a wheel on your sprocket.
 
DanGT86 said:
Omg! I love the freehub adapter on that. Do you have a super secret hub ratchet that will survive that kinda torque?

I’ve heard that Chris King freehubs are some of the strongest
 
My original intent for this sprocket is left hand drive, the adapter makes it universal. Maybe no freewheels on the motor power side. How much drag is on the big block at zero throttle?
 
One of the benefits of the Interior Permanent Magnet / IPM configuration is reduced cogging, compared to the older surface-mount magnets.

I my humble opinion, the main benefit is the peak heat resistance. High heat in the motor can damage the magnets.

There are a lot of motors that "look like" the big block. IPM, thinness of the laminations, how much silicon is in the lamination steel, quality of the neodymium in the magnets, quality of the two shaft bearings.

Mike had to look hard to find the good stuff, because every Chinese motor manufacturer says that theirs is the one you want...
 
I just experienced overheating for the first time with my cyclone fat 60A 72V. So I know overheating is a concern of mine, but more on my next more serious build.
One question, I’m not seeing torque ratings much anymore on motor spec’s. Can you guys remind me what the cyclone 40A and 60A and the big block torque ratings are? At motor not the wheel. I’d like to know what I’m riding now and compare.
This may help others decide now that choices are limited in the USA. The cyclone kits are no longer available at Luna cycle and sick bike parts.
 
The Cyclone 3000/6000 are virtually identical to my old external magnet “small block” with an added planetary gear box. The big block is twice the motor that the small block is, both in terms of the factory rating and my own much higher real world observations. My present motors are also IPMs. So my current big block is well over twice the motor that the Cyclone 3000/6000 is.
You can still buy Cyclone parts and drives directly from Paco at Cyclone.
 
After two I’m done with that type.
Like what that screenshot you posted reads at the bottom about building a frame around your motor. My wheels are turning say to speak.
It seems like what’s commercially available stops at around 1500w then jumps to to sur-Ron type motor bike. So it sort of puts a limit on what’s spendable. If you get near it’s price you might be stupid not to just get it. More power is enticing but it leads to a large bike or ditching the pedals all together. Pedals and no triple tree fork seem to keep it people friendly.
I think these pictures came from ES. Could a motor go further down like In front of the rear wheel like the swingarm kits? Longer bike would be more Squirrley but compromises would be considered.
 

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The SurRon is a small off road electric motorcycle. If that's what you want it's hard to beat for price. Personally I'd buy a Honda CR with a blown motor and have much better quality everything for less money. The SurRon has become a club. If you like joining clubs and being part of the crowd it's the answer. It is the Honda Civic of electric motorcycles.

For your hardtail bicycle frame design you could either put the motor inside of the triangle above the bottom bracket or between the seat post and rear wheel. That will require longer chain and seat stays. It won't make the bike squirrely, it will do the opposite I think. The front end will be less quick to come up which is a good thing if you're going to run a lot of power. Wheelies are fun unless you can't use full power without hanging out over the front end.

Enclosing the motor in a steel tube is not a good idea. Cyclone does it with their coaxial motors and it causes overheating issues. The little RC you show is ported and an out runner so radiant cooling through the case is less of a consideration. My motors are in runners, not an open case, and rely on radiant cooling through the outer case. It's best to end mount them and let them breathe.
 
Universalus said:
I would like to purchase the big block belt drive (BB68/73) if available for sale. Shop e-mail is silent...

Browser issue?
It's live for me...
 
I got swamped with PMs and emails yesterday. I also finished and shipped several orders. I can't always get back to inquiries same day. If I don't respond within a couple of days the message probably got buried or there was a problem with delivery.
 
Greetings all,

After 8 years and just shy of 10000km the 2 chainrings that came with my Lightning Rods 2014 Small Block kit are starting to show signs of server wear.

Existing drive train is 2 x 9

I'm considering transitioning to 1 x 9 drive train with a wide ratio cassette.

I would appreciate comments and suggestions from those with some experience with this modification.

Best Regards,
Remus
 
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