Lowrider eBike project

I love this thread. I recently finished my banana seat bike (Sears Spyder replica) build. I may have to add a hub motor.
 
E-HP said:
Turbotd04 said:
I was surprised how hard it was to bend back so there is still quite a bit of strength there I recon and now I haven't got the brake pressure on it it should be ok but if not I can just get a new one. The bend is to far up to be able to cut it and still make the adjustment holes, we will see how it goes but if I start feeling flex its not the end of the world if I need to get a new one.

So that was a lot of force from the brake mount. If you're at all concerned about the frame, you could get a short piece of angle iron (3 inches) to put between the seat stay and bracket to spread the force and resist bending.

Could you explain this a little more? Just trying to work out where you mean, the disc brake mount is a lot more solid than the cheap one I was using before but would like to strengthen then frame as much as possible as well
 
wheelbender6 said:
I love this thread. I recently finished my banana seat bike (Sears Spyder replica) build. I may have to add a hub motor.

Congrats! Yeah I haven't seen a 20" lowrider style bike with a motor before so fancied giving it a go! Stay tuned as going to be swapping the crank over soon as the ground clearance isn't enough with the 170mm Bafang cranks
 
Turbotd04 said:
E-HP said:
Turbotd04 said:
I was surprised how hard it was to bend back so there is still quite a bit of strength there I recon and now I haven't got the brake pressure on it it should be ok but if not I can just get a new one. The bend is to far up to be able to cut it and still make the adjustment holes, we will see how it goes but if I start feeling flex its not the end of the world if I need to get a new one.

So that was a lot of force from the brake mount. If you're at all concerned about the frame, you could get a short piece of angle iron (3 inches) to put between the seat stay and bracket to spread the force and resist bending.

Could you explain this a little more? Just trying to work out where you mean, the disc brake mount is a lot more solid than the cheap one I was using before but would like to strengthen then frame as much as possible as well

My thought is it probably isn’t necessary since the new mount is about twice as long between the axel attachment point and the end with the clamp, so a corresponding reduction in force applied there (the seat support had to endure twice the force of the current setup attached to the seat stay).
But, if you want to beef up that anchoring point, then either using a short piece of angle iron, or maybe a short piece of 3/4” steel conduit, cut in half lengthwise, and placed between the seat stay and clamp could spread the force out and provide a little more strength too.


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Been away for a bit with Christmas and all that but back at the bike now. So ive gone from the bafang crank arms 170mm to 100mm unicycle crank arms to give me more clearance and they look like they are going to be a lot better for rideability.

Bafang crank arms
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100mm unicycle crank arms
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Have got a front wheel to match the rear wheel on the way and think ive got everything to get the light circuit going now so its all coming together nicely! Will be ready for summer
 
Have addressed the rear brake issue completely now and thats gone from the weakest to probs the strongest part of the bike, following E-HP idea about the half pipe I got a 1/2" x 8" galvanised steel connector pipe used for plumbing from Home Depot and went to work turning that into a strengthening plate for the lower tube. Heres some pictures.

Started off with this
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Needed it to be 4" 1/4 long so started cutting it down and shaping it
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Then thought I would add some holes so the jubilee clip could grip on the top a bit as well
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Trial fitting
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Painted and fitted
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Hello, how do you like your build now that you've had it a while? I'm interested to know how your mid-drive performs in single speed mode.
 
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