MXUS 45mm 3000W Motor Winding & Rim Options

Which Winding & Wheel (Rim) Size do you Prefer?

  • I will mainly use this motor for Off-Road riding, and would prefer a larger wheel/tire & slower spee

    Votes: 9 26.5%
  • I will mainly use this motor for street riding, and would prefer a smaller wheel/tire and higher spe

    Votes: 10 29.4%
  • I want the fastest motor, and I want to build the wheel/rim myself

    Votes: 11 32.4%
  • I wand the highest torque motor and want to build the wheel/rim myself.

    Votes: 4 11.8%

  • Total voters
    34
teslanv said:
arkmundi said:
So I heard this rumour that you might be selling Infineon 18 fet controllers optimized for the MXUS 3000? What's the price & how to order? :?: Thanks. :mrgreen:
18x4110 infineon controllers with 10AWG battery & phase wires & 6mm hxt connectors for $200. Shipped. Also considering the Sabvoton sino controllers with field weakening, but those will be more than double the cost. Maybe $450 shipped.
What's the possibility of getting a regen braking enabled setup? Also, you supplying throttles, etc. in pin compatible?
 
arkmundi said:
What's the possibility of getting a regen braking enabled setup? Also, you supplying throttles, etc. in pin compatible?
Regen would be standard. I'm working with MXUS right now to set up a full kit with compatible connections. I will be testing their version of a Sino controller, hopefully soon. Once I have better a good set-up, I will be starting a sale thread.
 
OK. I will offer the following options for the MXUS 3000W Hubs:

16X4T Wind (9 Kv) in a 17x1.6" Moped rim (50% of initial order)
10X6T Wind (6 Kv) in a 19x1.85" Moped Rim (25% of initial order)
21X3T Wind (12 Kv) Bare Hub (25% of initial order)

These would all be the V2 design with the Aluminum Stator and 0.33mm Lams. They will all come stock with 2.5mm2 Phase wires, and I will recommend upgrading the phase wires on the 21x3T Wind option. The 16X4T Should be OK with the 2.5mm2 Phase wires, but They will all have KTY83-110 Temp sensors. Hall sensors standard on all the motors as well. Rims are 7116 Series Aluminum, type WM. Spokes will be by MXUS and are 10g size. I plan on letting MXUS build the wheels, and truing the wheels myself, before they go out.

I will start a presale thread, as soon as I have the Laced sample in hand (Sample should be here a few weeks) so I can post photos.
 
Approximate pricing, pending final international shipping costs to me:
$320 for Bare Motor
$370 for Motor laced in a 26" or 29er Bicycle Rim.
$420 for Motor laced in a 17" or 19" Moto Rim.
$100 for the MXUS 12FET IRFB4110 Sine Wave Controller
+ Actual FedEx Ground Shipping from Bellevue, WA & Sales Tax if you are a WA State Resident.
Shipping Fees for the bare motor varied from $25-35 depending on the destination city, (East Coast being more expensive, and longer delivery times) The laced motors will probably run another $15-$20 more than that.
 
It may take a little bit to get the money saved up, but I'll definitely be in line for a moto rim and a controller! Would love to see pics and final cost when they're available, thanks so much for taking point on getting these awesome motors stateside =)
 
teslanv said:
~~ in a 26" Power Circle P35D DH Rim.
Sorry for the zombie thread ressurection but I've bought a laced MXUS wheel with poorly laced spokes and have been told that ther rim is a "P35D " which I asssume must be a Power Circle P35D DH Rim.
Can you tell me the recommended & maximum spoke tension - I've scoured the internet, forums etc and you appear to be the best lead I have at the moment for a tech spec

Anyone else who knows this rim and can advise?
 
I just got and ebikeling kit with that same rim not one spoke was properly tension. They also told me that rim was a rim brake rim but there's no way you could as it had a bulge on both sides The rim in the same spot it was wider in one spot as if the rim had been expanded or pushed or flattened somehow I didn't pick that up on the wheel trailer but when I tried to put rim brakes on it would stop I'm both sides hitting the brake pads. So I wrote it down the street thump thump thump thump like Fred Flintstone I'm setting my back. Did I get a shity MtX rim are they all that way ,?
I tried using an Alex DM rim with 13 /14 spaim spokes works fine do you beat it off road and it gets a little wobbly. I think I'm going to have to go to a moped rim ? Good luck as I'm trying to find my way through this. Where did you get your motor from an or kit
 
999zip999 said:
I just got and ebikeling kit with that same rim not one spoke was properly tension. They also told me that rim was a rim brake rim but there's no way you could as it had a bulge on both sides The rim in the same spot it was wider in one spot as if the rim had been expanded or pushed or flattened somehow I didn't pick that up on the wheel trailer but when I tried to put rim brakes on it would stop I'm both sides hitting the brake pads. So I wrote it down the street thump thump thump thump like Fred Flintstone I'm setting my back. Did I get a shity MtX rim are they all that way ,?
I tried using an Alex DM rim with 13 /14 spaim spokes works fine do you beat it off road and it gets a little wobbly. I think I'm going to have to go to a moped rim ? Good luck as I'm trying to find my way through this. Where did you get your motor from an or kit
I got mine from an ebayer in Austria https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/ebikeparts_at

The seller offers a moped 19" and an 18" rim as options which I didn't take as I want to keep my bike lightweight and looking close-ish to a standard bike due to UK law. I'm more worried about the police seizing / crushing my bike than a snapped spoke.

Mine came with alternating short and long spokes so the ones accellerating the bike are shorter than the ones slowing it down, see post: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=110840&start=25#p1649035 Kind of ridiculous.

I got 80 Euros back (around $100) from an original built price of around $520, so for that hub, rim and spokes the seller isn't making much and I wasn't sure whether to feel sorry for him or be annoyed.

The tension was totally slack on one spoke, pretty variable on the others though it seemed to run reasonably true. the longer spokes (at a shallower angle) had been slightly bent to get the nipples on (I know - wow)

If no one on ES knows the pull out force specification, ore even a good guess, I reckon I'll take my $100, take it to my local bike shop and get them to fit Sapim E-Strong 12/13Ga butted spokes, spokes tensioned properly and if the rim fails I get a new rim.
 
What wind are you running ? Does the rim have eyelids for the nipples. I put brass washers under the head of the spoke because the holes are so big it depends what's pokes you are and how much sloppy elbow you have you wanted you don't want the spokes moving back and forth you want that head seated. Rim or disc brake?
 
999zip999 said:
What wind are you running ? Does the rim have eyelids for the nipples. I put brass washers under the head of the spoke because the holes are so big it depends what's pokes you are and how much sloppy elbow you have you wanted you don't want the spokes moving back and forth you want that head seated. Rim or disc brake?
It's a 4T - I was planning on using a PowerVelocity 120 or 150V controller (not available) so am now looking for an alternative
No Eyelets, no washers and half of the spokes are at such an angle you can't remove them due to the rim being twin skinned.
The nipples are pretty tight in the holes - I think if I was going to build it I'd have put in washers but they would be difficult to fit without drilling all the inner holes in the twin skin or widening one then rolling them round between the skins to the correct location - fiddly to do .
I'd say they need washers at the elbow end as well as they stick out too far which will tend to make them bend and break there
Disk brake
 
The washers at the spoke heads near the motor are there to take up all slack between the head and the motor. Is this movement that will break the head off the spoke.
 
Agreed. It needs washers at both ends
Unfortunately I still don't know enough about the rim to choose the right thickness of spoke so it doesn't pull through the rim
 
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