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Mystery motor
- Thread starter EVan
- Start date
John in CR
100 TW
For a cheap price maybe. Is the black blob a drum brake? My issue is how thin those phase wires are. That indicates a low power motor, unless someone has seen a high power motor to be used at low power, so it's phase wires are spindly.
I'd guess it's a Crystalyte 408 hub motor guts with no hall sensors.
Obviously a custom version made with a stub axle.
What is that black thing?
You would need a sensorless controller to make it work, or you could possibly add hall sensors.
Obviously a custom version made with a stub axle.
What is that black thing?
You would need a sensorless controller to make it work, or you could possibly add hall sensors.
RoughRider
100 W
- Joined
- May 17, 2009
- Messages
- 208
where do you have it from?
this is on generator for windturbines...
the black aluminium adapter is for the blades of the windturbine...
this is on generator for windturbines...
the black aluminium adapter is for the blades of the windturbine...
liveforphysics
100 TW
I bet it's one of the wheel-barrow hubmotors.
TylerDurden
100 GW
The stub looks sturdy. If a cheap source is found, they could be useful for trike/quad/trailer builders.
rkosiorek
100 kW
Wind Turbine! now that makes sense. also explains the lack of spoke flanges and hall sensors.
how about a couple more pic's. a couple of closeups of both sides of the side cover with the bolts sticking through. does it have any reinforcing or a thicker flange for the bolts? also a couple of closeups of both sides of the adapter?
please and thank you.
rick
how about a couple more pic's. a couple of closeups of both sides of the side cover with the bolts sticking through. does it have any reinforcing or a thicker flange for the bolts? also a couple of closeups of both sides of the adapter?
please and thank you.
rick
John in CR
100 TW
Wind turbine, very interesting. My dual winding X4 might be just the ticket if I can figure out how to switch between the 2 electronic "gears" depending on wind speed. The electronic 2 speed thing may be a good idea for a DIY alternator too.
Drunkskunk
100 GW
Damn, that thing's cool!
I wonder if a go cart or atv 5 lug rim might fit that thing's 5 lugs?
Looks like a Clyte 408 to me as well. Could make for an interesting build. 408's are near bullet proof.
I wonder if a go cart or atv 5 lug rim might fit that thing's 5 lugs?
Looks like a Clyte 408 to me as well. Could make for an interesting build. 408's are near bullet proof.
Wind turbine would make sense. No real need for hall sensors.
To use as a motor, there aren't a lot of sensorless controllers out there besides RC controllers.
I really couldn't recommend one at this point, since they all seem to have issues. Perhaps someone else has had some success with one.
RC controllers with extra capacitors are fine if you want to stay under 48v and can deal with using a servo tester to interface the throttle.
To use as a motor, there aren't a lot of sensorless controllers out there besides RC controllers.
I really couldn't recommend one at this point, since they all seem to have issues. Perhaps someone else has had some success with one.
RC controllers with extra capacitors are fine if you want to stay under 48v and can deal with using a servo tester to interface the throttle.
BLUESTREAK
1 kW
- Joined
- May 10, 2009
- Messages
- 470
LYEN has some sensorless controllers for sale in the (NEW FOR SALE SECTION). 
You might wanna check with Tostino; he is looking into a wind generator:
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=19363&start=0
Maybe he could use that motor as-is for it?
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=19363&start=0
Maybe he could use that motor as-is for it?
DISH
10 W
- Joined
- Oct 19, 2009
- Messages
- 94
If you are still looking for a sensorless controller that works well you might want to check this out.
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=13691
^^^ I REALLY need to redo those photos now that I have a better camera!
The controllers are still available on eBay for $25 + $24 shipping. (I just ordered another one.) Shipping might seem a bit high but it's typically 2 or 3 days China to USA (once they actually ship the item
) and keep in mind the controller is only $25 which reduces the pain of the shipping charge a bit.
I won't bother pasting an eBay link as they expire quickly but you can find it by searching for, "500W E-Bike Brushless Hub Motor Hall Sensor Controller", the seller "ecitypower", or visit their very confusing website at: http://www.bmsbattery.com. I say confusing because finding this controller on their website can be difficult at times.
WARNING! Communicating with these people is sometimes difficult so I always go the eBay route when ordering from them. That way at least I can get a refund if things go wrong. They try hard but don't seem to know much about what they are selling and their English is T-E-R-R-I-B-L-E!
I have been using several of these controllers for a bit over a year. Although it comes in two models, 36 and 48 volts, and is rated at 500 watts, I've been running mine at 60 volts @ 25 amps (1500 watts) for over a year without a single problem! Internal capacitors are rated at 63 volts and FETs (in the units I have) are rated at 75 volts 80 amps. Internal current limit is set to 25 amps. Motor direction of rotation can be reversed by an external jumper which is provided.
I would NOT try to push this controller much above 60 volts unless you replace the 63 volt capacitors. The next voltage limit you will hit will be the 75 volt FETS. But if you can get by with 60 volts or less @ 25 amps the stock controller will work well for you with no mods.
Best of all the regen braking works flawlessly. If you live in a flat terrain area regen braking might seem useless but for us mountain folk regen braking can be a life saver while greatly reducing brake pad wear. I prefer to dump the energy back into the battery rather than grinding away discs or the sides of the wheel! I have experienced mechanical brake failure more than once while blasting down the side of a mountain and now use regen braking to keep my speed under control rather than overheating my disc brakes and only use the disc brakes for a hard (complete) stop.
I've been running one of these controllers with a gutted Bionx PL-350 350 watt motor. I tore the internal controller out of the motor after it failed for the third time and brought out phase / sensor wires). It runs so well without the hall sensors connected that I no longer bother hooking them up. However, I ALWAYS pedal first then hit the throttle. If you are more of the throttle first type (or don't have pedals) you might benefit by hooking up the sensor lines as there is sometimes a bit of chatter while the controller figures out the firing sequence when hitting the throttle from a dead stop. However, this controller is one of the better sensorless controllers that I've tried when it comes to this issue. The Bionx motor now cruises at 30 to 35 MPH @ 60 volts compared to barely making 20 MPH with the original built in controller!
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=13691
^^^ I REALLY need to redo those photos now that I have a better camera!
The controllers are still available on eBay for $25 + $24 shipping. (I just ordered another one.) Shipping might seem a bit high but it's typically 2 or 3 days China to USA (once they actually ship the item
) and keep in mind the controller is only $25 which reduces the pain of the shipping charge a bit.I won't bother pasting an eBay link as they expire quickly but you can find it by searching for, "500W E-Bike Brushless Hub Motor Hall Sensor Controller", the seller "ecitypower", or visit their very confusing website at: http://www.bmsbattery.com. I say confusing because finding this controller on their website can be difficult at times.
WARNING! Communicating with these people is sometimes difficult so I always go the eBay route when ordering from them. That way at least I can get a refund if things go wrong. They try hard but don't seem to know much about what they are selling and their English is T-E-R-R-I-B-L-E!
I have been using several of these controllers for a bit over a year. Although it comes in two models, 36 and 48 volts, and is rated at 500 watts, I've been running mine at 60 volts @ 25 amps (1500 watts) for over a year without a single problem! Internal capacitors are rated at 63 volts and FETs (in the units I have) are rated at 75 volts 80 amps. Internal current limit is set to 25 amps. Motor direction of rotation can be reversed by an external jumper which is provided.
I would NOT try to push this controller much above 60 volts unless you replace the 63 volt capacitors. The next voltage limit you will hit will be the 75 volt FETS. But if you can get by with 60 volts or less @ 25 amps the stock controller will work well for you with no mods.
Best of all the regen braking works flawlessly. If you live in a flat terrain area regen braking might seem useless but for us mountain folk regen braking can be a life saver while greatly reducing brake pad wear. I prefer to dump the energy back into the battery rather than grinding away discs or the sides of the wheel! I have experienced mechanical brake failure more than once while blasting down the side of a mountain and now use regen braking to keep my speed under control rather than overheating my disc brakes and only use the disc brakes for a hard (complete) stop.
I've been running one of these controllers with a gutted Bionx PL-350 350 watt motor. I tore the internal controller out of the motor after it failed for the third time and brought out phase / sensor wires). It runs so well without the hall sensors connected that I no longer bother hooking them up. However, I ALWAYS pedal first then hit the throttle. If you are more of the throttle first type (or don't have pedals
) you might benefit by hooking up the sensor lines as there is sometimes a bit of chatter while the controller figures out the firing sequence when hitting the throttle from a dead stop. However, this controller is one of the better sensorless controllers that I've tried when it comes to this issue. The Bionx motor now cruises at 30 to 35 MPH @ 60 volts compared to barely making 20 MPH with the original built in controller!
